Kitchen W8, Abingdon Road

[battleofthebulge]

Eating at Kitchen W8 (terrible name , great restaurant) reminded me what I felt was missing at HIX, but couldn't articulate. In brief, HIX is cooking surrounded by Art; Kitchen W8 is Cooking surrounded by art.

If you have read this far, here is an insider's tip. They are offering BYO on Sundays in November, which I discovered thanks to @londoneating. Have not seen this info anywhere else and when you ring to confirm they do so rather grudgingly. However the waiter very graciously opened and decanted our Beyerskloof 2001 Cab Sauv/Merlot (and sampled it ...). No corkage. If you don't BYO, the bargain on the list is Billecart Salmon NV at £42, which is £3 more than it would cost you to buy it at Oddbins on the corner. Note to self - check if Oddbins is ripping you off on this one.

The room is slightly different to its incarnation as '11 Abingdon Road' and then 'Bistro 11'. They've put comfy banquettes at the back of the room in rather a nice green, and matched up the chair seats. As a result, it feels a bit more upmarket than before, and is defnitely more comfortable. Ms Mascarenhas' collection of drawings continues to grace most of the walls. Very W8, just as the Fray Bentos mobiles at HIX are very Soho.

So, to the food. Steve had the much debated game consomme and game hot dog to start. I think this was a dish dreamt up to use the rather peculiar mug/plate ensemble that this was served on. The hot dog was good, but the bun a little too large and a little too sweet. The consomme, by contrast, I thought was too salty, but Steve liked it. It paled in comparison to my Soup Of The Year, which is the mushroom soup at the Bar Room at MOMA. However, as West 53rd St is not a 10 minute walk away, I'm going to have to put up with W8 for the time being. My starter of pumpkin risotto with poached egg, on the other hand, was the dish that brought HIX into focus. Rather like, if you're used to buying M&S and you graduate to Gucci, you suddenly understand what good fashion is. OK, HIX wasn't bad, but I would say it was about on a par with The Harwood Arms. Except twice the price. This risotto, on the other hand, opens your eyes to what Cooking is all about. The pumpkin was just al-dente, providing harmony (sorry that's the only word I can think of that's appropriate) to the mushrooms and the egg. I can't really say exactly why it made me so happy, but my suspicion is it was all the butter.

Steve and I, as you might have guessed, eat out a lot. Our holidays mostly involve eating. Our spare time often involves eating. So we try and order different things from the menu. Most of the time, we are happy with our choices. Very occasionally we swap becuase he likes what I've ordered and vice versa. Very very occasionally we order two dishes that are equally toothsome. At Kitchen W8 we swapped our mains half way through because we couldn't agree which was better, but we could agree that we both wanted to eat both of them. He ordered the rose veal and spatzle, and I had the steak with red wine reduction. Interestingly the Cab Sauv matched better with the veal than the steak: the more subtle meat brought out more variety in the fruit. For the steak, the meat itself wasn't as good as, say, the fillet served a couple of doors down at Whits, but the red wine and shallot reduction spread across it was quite amazing. Here indeed was Michelin star technique for the masses. Well, the masses who live in Kensington and can afford to pop out for a £40 a head meal. Without wine.

We were too full for pudding, but I am hoping that P can find a babysitter for next Sunday and will turn up with an '86 Pomerol so we can eat some more veal and try out the sweet end of the menu.

Sarah

[sunbeam]

Well, the masses who live in Kensington and can afford to pop out for a £40 a head meal. Without wine.

That'll be you then!

Hix is not that marvelous these days but he still has a lot of influential mates around to blow smoke.

S

[david goodfellow]

Was tipped off about this place by former egullet member and uber poster(7632 posts) Andy Lynes, and reading Sarah,s review simply confirms it as a must visit, especially given the fact two star Michelin man Philip Howard is guiding the kichen

I see much respected Andy Hayler gives it high praise in his blog.

[david goodfellow]

I'm glad I took the time to click on to Bloomberg, this article by Richard Vines is so well informed, and quite frankly impressive I almost feel that we have dined their.

No need for me to do a review then

http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601040&sid=at4cYbE2YLus

Edited November 20, 2009 by david goodfellow (log)

[PhilD]

Hix is not that marvelous these days but he still has a lot of influential mates around to blow smoke.

I found it interesting that Dos Hermanos disliked W8 but loved Hix's new place. A Faustian pact with the PR industry in order to go mainstream?

[IanT]

Where did that come from Phil? Say what you like about the Hermanos but they know their own mind, corporate shills they are not.

Could have been a bad night or just a case of differing tastes. Hix has had plenty of other good reviews in any event. Excessive pre-dinner cocktails rather than desire to suckle the corporate teat much more likely to have influenced that Hermanos review of Hix...

Incidentally - I am coming to Sydney in March, would be great if you could recommend some restaurants.

[battleofthebulge]

Agree with Ian. Re-reading the HIX review, seems like DH put away 2 cocktails, half a bottle of sherry, lots (by his own admission) of some free booze handed round by Mark Hix, presumably something with mains, and PX with dessert. I think the influence of the bar running all the way along one wall, plus perhaps wafts of spirits from the bar downstairs, just makes you want to drink more. I can't remember the last time I asked for a glass of champagne to finish a meal (oops) but at HIX it just seemed the right thing to do.

I agree with some of his sentiments on the W8 cooking, particularly the game consomme. I also think that asking for soemthing with foie gras in a restaurant that clearly says it's going for the mid-market, will mean you get a dish with sub-prime ingredients. There's no way Howard can make money from this location unless he keeps a very tight eye on Chef's budget. And there is no mention of booze at all in the review.

So, tip to any new restaurateur who seeks a good review from a DH. Fill 'im up with free wine and give him chips and icecream

Sarah

[PhilD]

So, tip to any new restaurateur who seeks a good review from a DH. Fill 'im up with free wine and give him chips and icecream

Say what you like about the Hermanos but they know their own mind, corporate shills they are not

I feel there is a contradiction here, and that is what disappoints me. DH used to be a very good irreverent blog, but it has subtlety changed. The boys used to be outside the tent pissing in; my read is that they are now comfortably sat inside the tent. And good for them, it is nice to see new talent gaining a foothold in publishing and journalism. However, it does mean that DH is not what it used to be and a reader needs to be cautious.

[david goodfellow]

Ever had that feeling that Everybody and his Brother has been there before you?

I had that feeling with my first girlfriend and now KW8.

Since its opening every critic and blogger has reviewed this place and most rate it very highly indeed. So I now feel like a very late arrival at the party.

We arrived just after one on a busy Saturday afternoon and being that there were parking restrictions and no pay and display bays empty, we parked on a single yellow.

Virtually across the road from the restaurant I asked a couple of diners who had popped outside for a fag if they knew it was OK at the weekend.

"Yea, your fine there no problem"

The extremely good looking greeter, who's name would be etched on my brain if I was a younger man showed us to our table which was directly in front of us towards the back of the room.

At this point doubts as to the advice on parking kicked in and a couple of merry go rounds the block secured a four hour limit parking bay. Ah deep joy.

Our room, the smaller of the two is very cosy indeed, tables the correct spacing apart and the seats facing into the room.

I love the artwork, not one painting jarred, I would gladly own any of them.

Having read quite a few reviews the game consomme, and game hot dog were to be my choice, however surprise surprise Cilla Mrs G had already plumped for the Pot roast Guinea Fowl with Bacon Choucroute and Roast Shallots from the set menu. I say surprise because normally if I fancy the table-d'hote she fancies something off the carte.

As it was the Game combo was off, still the Wood Pigeon, Venison, Pork Cheeks, Sea Bream looked equally inviting.

Seven starters, Seven desserts and Ten mains is easily sufficient choice to ponder over.

Pricing is very kind indeed, especially the mains, four of which are £15/16 with just one over £20 in fact its £20.50 to be precise.

She had the Veloute of Potato and Leek, horseradish cream and mackerel toast, which arrived in the cup and saucer that I'm positive the Game Combo was dished up in. Not that, that matters although it did look a bit poncey for want of a better description.

Everything was as described if a bit of a non event.

My Terrine of Winter vegetables with Ham Hock, glazed Trotter and pickled Carrots was the better of the two starters.

Bread was White and Brown sourdough both bought in, plus a very good home made pumpkin and onion offering. We like this generosity with bread other restaurateurs take note.

Onwards and upwards to the Guinea Fowl, a very tasty bird sitting on top of some creamy mash flanked either side by couple of whole perfectly cooked shallots. The sauce was perfect and clearly demonstrated the class in the kitchen. We both took this dish as the other main did not appeal so much.

Wrong again was I, we ordered the dish, Slow cooked Salmon with Shallot (again) Puree and tarragon Gnocci as an extra course split between us served after the starters.

When it arrived it looked a bit of a mess in as much as the pinky orange of the Salmon was surrounded by a vivid in your face beetroot foam, we were surprised.

We were asked what we thought of it, as it had only been on the menu for three days.

Assuming it had been sous vide, wrong, they don't practice the dark art here.

We have eaten a lot of Salmon over Xmas and its easy to forget what "real salmon" tastes like until you eat fish of this quality. I just wish that I could source fish of this standard

This dish was the dogs bollocks taste wise, close you eyes and your in heaven.

Dessert were, Egg Custard tart with Golden Raisins and Nutmeg Ice cream and an ever so simple Rhubarb Jelly with Vanilla Ice cream. No real wow with these just ever so comforting to end a most thoroughly enjoyable meal

We opted for a bottle of French Cabernet Sauvignon which quality wise and for fifteen quid is cheap a chips

Service was good to very good led by Eric Handts making sure everybody was well served.

Chef Mark Kempson is clearly very talented and with Phil Howard calling in daily (alongside his main duties at The Square)to oversee and assist, a fantastic future is assured.

As you may have already gathered we are also big fans of this place and it has everything and more that could be expected from a chef with the Michelin pedigree that is Phil Howard.

Stunning value on the set menu, and no dip in quality either,

Total including extra course and a very good bottle of house wine, Thames tap water £73.06.