Paris Wine Bars

[Freckles]

Well, I was supposed to email everyone last week about where we'll be going this Wednesday night (the 22nd) . But, I got caught up in meetings and never got around to it. So, now I've got to send a belated email with the Wheres and Whens. Who knows if anyone will attend in this heatwave and at this late notice.

Les Enfants Rouges: Would love to go there, but I can't tell if it's even open on Wednesday nights, if we have to eat there or not, if they will let us reserve tables. I called a few times to ask but no one answered. I seem to recall that it has an outdoor patio, which would be great in these temperatures.

I looked online and found Les Caves St. Gilles. Don't know what it's like, other than its a wine bar in the 3rd, which is the only stipulation for this month's meeting.

Ooof. Let me know your thoughts, if you have any you'd like to share.

Freckles

[Freckles]

I think that Les Enfants rouge is closed every night but Thursday and Friday, even for drinks. So... I guess that leaves us with Caves Saint Gilles.

[Le Zouave]

Except les Caves Saint Gilles is a spanish place, not a wine bar... If les Enfants rouges is closed, why not try le Bascou: it's not exactly a wine bar, although they do have a lot of choice (the owner one won a best sommelier prize, or something like that), especially in the south-west. Food is classic basque, with some great cured ham and a quite huge boudin noir.

[Freckles]

Well, sadly didn't get this email in time. I hated Caves St. Gilles. I had called and asked what time to arrive so we could get an outside table. "We don't open til 8 in the evenings, but if you come at 7:45 and wait 15 minutes, we can be sure to give you an seat outside." We dutifully turned up at a quarter to 8. It was the heat wave. at least 85 degrees and high humidity. My friends and I were literally DRIPPINg.

They wouldn't let us have any of the outside seats. Pointed to the interior. All windows sealed shut, no air conditioners, 3 out of the 4 people inside (= everyone except the bartender) was chain smoking.

We left and went to a restaurant down the street. Got tipsy on rose. Never going there again! Rude, rude, rude.

Except les Caves Saint Gilles is a spanish place, not a wine bar... If les Enfants rouges is closed, why not try le Bascou: it's not exactly a wine bar, although they do have a lot of choice (the owner one won a best sommelier prize, or something like that), especially in the south-west. Food is classic basque, with some great cured ham and a quite huge boudin noir.

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[Freckles]

Hey, friends. I want to meet a friend for a cozy drink tomorrow (Sunday) night. Any thoughts on a good wine bar - relaxed, nice atmosphere well-suited to conversation - that is open on a Sunday? xox S

[Felice]

Fish, on rue de Seine in the 6th, is open on Sunday nights. But it doesn't really fit the description of cosy. But it's a really fun place, especially if you sit at the bar. Sundays can be very busy. They have about 15 different wines by the glass, mostly from Langueduc, Roussilon and the Rhone.

If you go, tell the bartender I sent you. I used to work there.

[Felice]

I was looking for a place to have a drink and something light to eat on Friday night after work, and decided on trying Le Café de Passage, which I found in my copy of “Paris en Bouteilles”, one of those little books from the “Paris est a nous” series. This one lists all of the better wine shops and wine bar/bistros in each arrondissement. I am so surprised that I haven’t heard more about this place and just loved it. It’s been around for ten years, so I’m sure it’s well-known and perhaps it just doesn’t get a lot of press anymore.***

I started with a glass of Arbois paired with some really good Salers. We also had something that I had only heard of recently and haven’t seen on any menus in Paris before, it was lard de Colonatta, paper thin slices of lard which where served with a plate of steamed ratte potatoes and warm grilled bread and a bowl of gross sel. It was amazing. We also had very good rillettes de canard served with a large jar of cornichons and pickled onions and a really great bruschetta made with home-made tapenade, and shaved cured ham and parmesan cheese. Everything served was clearly made with the best ingredients. They had all sorts of small plates including at least ten different cheese plates, different bruschettas, foie gras, charcuterie, etc. They also had desserts, but I didn’t pay much attention to those. They serve roughly 15 wines by the glass and have about 400 by the bottle. According to my book, they have one of the best whisky collections in Paris with over 200 labels. Definitely a great place for a glass of wine and something light to eat. And they serve late.

Café de Passage, 12 rue de Charonne, Metro Bastille. Open Tuesday-Saturday 12-15h30. 19h30-2h.

***While posting this I see that it's been mentionned in this thread before.

[mzimbeck]

I went to le Verre Volé last Thursday night and, for the second time, loved it. The young and adorable Nicolas will tell you anything you wish to know about the wines lining the shelves of this shop/bar. If you're indecisive, he'll bring 3-4 of whatever color you're favoring and give you full descriptions of each.

He won't mention prices, so it's a good idea to ask. Our first bottle was 5 euros but we were suprised by a second bottle for 28. I know that some of you readers wouldn't bat an eye at that, but quand meme.

We nibbled four dishes between an equal number of people and shared 2 bottles of wine.

The two starters included a salad of mi-cuit mi-fumé salmon with beets and plenty of fresh dill & parsley, along with a plate of plump sardines with a generous pile of roasted pepper and fennel in lemon with fresh basil.

The two mains included a plate of charcuterie & fromage (2 sausages, cured ham, rillettes, slab o'butter, brie, tomme, and one other cheese), and a sausage from the Ardèche whose name I'm forgetting but was similar to a very herby meatloaf with mashed potatoes and some greens.

As has been described elsewhere in this thread, le Verre Volé has a very sweet atmosphere in close quarters. What's more, it's just steps away from the Canal St. Martin, which is perfect for a stroll after dinner.

Alternately, you can buy a (chilled) bottle from their shop and just take it to drink along the banks of the canal, which is precisely what we did the following night.

Super place!

[fresh_a]

Verre Volé is a great place. I just moved nearby so I plan to frequent them more often! As an aside, the Hotel du Nord, just across the canal is a nice place for a cool beer, although the food is a little mediocre..

[Felice]

I love the Verre Volé as well, it’s definitely one of my favorites.

Recently I tried La Cave Café, a hip wine bar in the 18th serving simple food and vin naturel by either the glass or the bottle. It seems like a place where you can go just for drinks if you’d like, as they have two rooms, one next to the bar for drinks and then another for dinner, plus a few tables outside. I’m not so sure I’d make a special trip across town, but if I lived in the 18th, I would definitely go.

La Cave Café, 134, rue Marcadet in the 18th

Another place I liked with vins naturels was La Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, a very nice wine bar overlooking the place de l’Estrapade in the 5th. Unfortunately they close early most nights (around 8pm, although I’m sure that I read somewhere recently that they are open for dinner on Tuesdays and Thursday) so we only had a glass of wine with a plate of charcuterie.

La Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, 19, Rue des Fosés Saint-Jacques in the 18th

[annapin]

I am looking for recommendations for some great wine bars in Paris. Specifically, I would like places where I can try different wines by the glass and where I can find interesting wines that I may not be able to get here in NYC. Also, while I do speak French, I'm a bit rusty and I'd love a place where I can learn about the wine as well as drinking it (from a friendly and knowledgeable staff, for instance). Thank you in advance.

[John Talbott]

I am looking for recommendations for some great wine bars in Paris.  Specifically, I would like places where I can try different wines by the glass and where I can find interesting wines that I may not be able to get here in NYC.  Also, while I do speak French, I'm a bit rusty and I'd love a place where I can learn about the wine as well as drinking it (from a friendly and knowledgeable staff, for instance).  Thank you in advance.

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There are a ton of places.

Lavinia certainly has stuff no one else does, Auge is interesting but especially for Calvados, etc, LeGrand has wine tastings and places like the Cremerie Caves Miard have lots of new bio, unfiltered stuff.

Anyone looking for wine bars should check out the compendium too.

[Felice]

Lavinia certainly has stuff no one else does, Auge is interesting but especially for Calvados, etc, LeGrand has wine tastings and places like the Cremerie Caves Miard have lots of new bio, unfiltered stuff.

Anyone looking for wine bars should check out the compendium too.

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Lavinia, LeGrand and La Cremerie are all great places to sample wines by the glass. Augé doesn't have a wine bar but they have just begun their Spring/Summer tastings where they invite 15 or so winemakers for a free tasting in front of the shop. The next tasting will be wines from Languedoc on April 28th.

You could also try Willi's Wine Bar, Juveniles, Fish (all of which are very anglophone but also very good). Verre Volé is definitely a favorite. Another on my list to try is Le Bistrot des Halles in the 1st.

[John Talbott]

Augé doesn't have a wine bar but they have just begun their Spring/Summer tastings where they invite 15 or so winemakers for a free tasting in front of the shop.  The next tasting will be wines from Languedoc on April 28th.

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As usual, Phyllis is right and more precise. Augé doesn't have a wine bar or a lot of tastings, but if you wish to buy a good Calva or Cognac, somehow they find a few bottles and glasses. Very sympa.

[raisab]

Though Felice and John are more knowledgable than I am, I think a fun place, that won't be too intimidating is Fish. A small restaurant on Rue de Seine owned and run by a charming New Zealander (Drew), and a handsome Cuban-American (Juan) who also owns the wineshop around the corner, La Dernier Goute. Any of the wines on the menu you can buy at the wineshop dutyfree and have delivered to your hotel, packed for shipping. You can sit at the bar and sample, they will give you tastes, and have a wonderful evening with great food to boot.

[manstouch]

Looking for some local interesting wine bars in the 5th where the owners speak English. Any Ideas?

Edited December 28, 2007 by manstouch (log)

[John Talbott]

My charming co-host Felice/Phyllis has spoken well of La Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, "a very nice wine bar overlooking the place de l’Estrapade" and I have noted elsewhere that there’s le Panta-gruel, 26, rue Berthollet, 01.47.07.09.85. I also am aware of the Au Soleil d’Austerlitz + Le Vin Sobre. Please report back.

I'm not sure about the English part though.

Good hunting!

[Carlsbad]

Check out Les Pipos.

[sharonb]

Go to the 6th if you want an excellent wine bar that is 100% English-speaking: Fish La Boissonerie.

[John Talbott]

Go to the 6th if you want an excellent wine bar that is 100% English-speaking: Fish La Boissonerie.

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Thanks Sharon. Fish..... and their wine store, La Dernière Goutte at 6 rue Bourbon le Château, are certainly worth going to. But your post raises a point I frequently bring up. One can get from the 5th to the 6th in minutes, indeed, except for the far reaches of the 16th, almost any place is easily reached by Metro or bus in minutes.

[ulterior epicure]

Following quickly on the heels of the Gourmet love-fest on Paris, Food + Wine features three Paris wine bars:

Alfred

52 rue de Richelieu

1er Arr.

Cavestève

15 rue de Longchamp

16eme Arr.

Racines

8 Passage de Panoramas

2eme Arr.

[John Talbott]

We should add that they also list:

Old school wine bars:

Au Sauvignon

Au Vin des Rues

La Cloche des Halles

Le Rubis

Pioneering wine bars:

Le Garde Robe

Le Verre Vole

Les Papilles

l'Estaminet d'Aromes & Cepages

[Ptipois]

There is a distinction to be made between "bar à vins" and "bistrot à vins". The former serves wine by the glass and, if one wishes tartines, cheese and charcuterie, and sometimes hot dishes at mealtimes. Le Rubis is a good example. The latter, the bistrot à vins, is more in the Les Papilles style, actually a restaurant-bistrot with a good emphasis on wines but no possibility to order only a glass of wine at the counter. Le Pré Verre and La Muse Vin are also bistrots à vins.

About Cavestève, which has two locations (one also on rue de la Cerisaie near Bastille), it is interesting to note that the new manager is Jérôme Moreau, excellent ex-sommelier at Le Bristol and Senderens. He left Le Bristol in July and just took his new job. He intends to develop the bistrot dimension of the place though the kitchen is a bit too small to serve "proper" food. At any rate the wine selection and advice will be top quality.

Edited September 12, 2008 by Ptipois (log)

[naf]

I have some visiting friends in Paris, and they would like to know whether they can find this in Paris: a wine bar with a self service vending machine that one can buy a smart card and choose to taste several vintage wine by small portions and by wish.

If not, I would also like some recommendations of wine bar that one can taste wine by glass? with or without food.

I know Racines serves organic wine.

Thanks a lot.

[David Lebovitz]

That would be Lavinia, just next to the place de la Madeleine.