First time to France

[bunny]

i am going to roanne from nov.28-dec.3 to do a stage at troisgros. i will be arriving in lyon on the 27th and need recommendations on where to stay at for the day as i will be staying at troisgros during my stage. i need to also find out the best possiable way to get to roanne from lyon as i need to be at work by 9:00am.

while in lyon also i would like to go shopping for possiably a new knife or some nice copper cookwear can anyone recommend anywhere.

i also do not speak french so anywhere where english is spoken would be a plus.

thank you

[cabrales]

Bunny -- The train is the best way from Lyons to Roanne. As you know, train timetables need to be confirmed. However, current searches on the SNCF (that's the French railway system) website indicate the following. I selected times that will get you into Roanne early, as it November 28 is your first day at work.

Lyon Perrache 6:27 am --> Roanne 7:49 am (This is Train Number 75704)**

Lyon Part Dieu 6:39 am --> Roanne 7:49 am (This is the same train; be careful as Lyon has two principal train stations, and there might even be a third -- Vaise)**

Lyon Perrache 7:07 am --> Roanne 8:36 am (Train 86606)

** = Appear appropriate

You might consider staying in hotels very close to the train stations. That way, you can buy the ticket the day before (checking the times above) and get to the train station relatively quickly in the morning. Ibis is a large chain in France, and it has relatively inexpensive rooms (under USD 75/night). Many alternative facilities are even less expensive. What price range are you looking at? Please provide some information, and I will locate some possibilities from Michelin and the Ibis website.

If you are interested in saving money, specify obviously that you are not traveling first class on the train.

The Troisgros facilities are literally 2 minutes away from the Roanne railway station. As you are exiting the station, you need to gently keep left (towards a bend in the road 1 minute away where there is a tall graphite grey/blackish sculpture of forks and spoons). When you get to the sculpture, you will see a set of adjoining buildings right opposite the sculpture and the Troisgros facility. Consider whether you want to enter through the front door (I have no viewpoints either way).

Please let me know if you need restaurant recommendations. If you have never eaten at Georges Blanc's three-star restaurant in Vonnas, for example, there is a non-close substitute at his inexpensive bistro called le Splendide (or something like that) in Lyons. There is a Bresse chicken dish, with a simple cream sauce, that is not bad. La Mere Brazizer has a "chicken in half mourning" dish that is the subject of an old thread and that is also reasonably priced (less than 50 euros for dinner, say). Many of the starred facilities may have special deals on lunches. Please post to let me know whether you would like me to assist you by calling up the facilties to get lunch pricing information.

I hope you are going to sample at least one meal at Troisgros gastronomic. If that is difficult for some reason, or even if you have a meal at the gastronomic restaurant, try Le Centrale, the bistro. Pick dishes that have interesting plays on acidity, the subject of Michel Troisgros' upcoming book later this year.

[bunny]

cabrales i ever tell you how great you are thank you very much.

as far as the hotels in lyon go i would like to keep it at around 100us or lower if at all possiable.i would also like to keep kinda close to the train station as possiable also, to make getting there in the morning as easy as possiable.

as far as dining goes i have never been to france before so any recommendations would be welcomed. i will also be dining alone if that makes a diffrence(how is dining alone in france is it tough to get a table as a solo diner).i also want to note the lack of french that i speak so an english speaking facility would be wonderful.

on my final night there i am hoping to take in a meal at troisgros.

also is there anywhere in lyon where one could pickup some fine kitchenwere.

thank you

[cabrales]

bunny -- On Nov 28, do you have both lunch and dinner available for dining, when I consider possibilites? Are you interested in Lyon's bouchons (let me know if you need that described; although I have never eaten in a bouchon, I have read about them)? What is your budget for each meal, including taxi to the restaurant? Also, do you like Bresse chicken dishes? Do you prefer a more traditional cuisine or one intended to be more creative?

I dine solo very frequently. If you are going to be in France only for a limited time, you might want to capitalize on all dining opportunities. I don't think solo dining is an issue, but even if it were, the food would have to be the most important consideration.

[ajay]

We stayed at the best western on the avenue de la grande arme, about three blocks from Lyon Pererache train station. I believe it is within your price range. the hotel was simple and comfortable, and we had our own bathrooms. It was also fairly easy to reserve from the US and the proprietors spoke passable ENglish, a must for us.

Do enjoy and please report back on your experiences.

[bunny]

cabby- i will be getting into lyon in the morning so i will have time for both lunch and dinner. price is not relly that important to me as this is the first time i will be in france and want to eat some outstanding meals. as far as prefrence goes on trad. or creative cusine goes i have none i just wanna eat good. if anthing i would lean more towards the creative side tho.

as far as the bouchons go i have heard about them but don't relly understand what they are. from what i understand and this may be a bad way to put it but is it something similar to like a pizzaera where you go in and have a nice quick type of meal. or am i way off.

as it looks i may only have time for three meals in france unfortunatly. one lunch and two dinners. one dinner will hopefully be at troisgros and the rest are in the air.

also what does say a typical dinner tasting menu cost at a 2-3star esatblishment. also do resturants also feature tasting menus during lunch or is lunch more or less a la carte.

[lizziee]

bunny,

I won't reproduce my entire post here but I think you must try Auberge de l'lle about 20 minutes outside of Lyon. You can find my entire post on the most recent Lyon thread.

[cabrales]

Bunny -- I'll provide a comprehensive report; your flexibility as to price leaves me with a lot of options. It will take a couple of days, I imagine. But I will do the research for myself as well as for you (I like Troisgros, and tend to spend too much time there when around Lyons).

[cabrales]

Bunny -- Here's the first cut at possibilities. I asked the AmEx Concierge to look into starred restaurants in the Lyons area (Auberge de L'ill, non-Haeberlin facility obviously, is being followed up on). Note I will provide more information when time permits. Description is from AmEx and not from me; my comments are noted by Cabrales annotation:

Restaurant Name: Paul Bocuse

Michelin Rating: Three stars

Address: 50 quai de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-72-42-90-90

Description: Paul Bocuse is a "culinary shrine" just north of Lyon in

Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. The atmosphere is grand, and the diners are dressed

to the nines (jacket required). Bocuse's truffle soup and sea bass is

legendary, although Bocuse himself is often away. Reservations are

essential.

**Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes**

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No

**Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes**

Cabrales: Not good food when I visited, but I will visit again. This is a giant of French haute cuisine, and even if Bocuse's food is not to my liking, merits a try.

Restaurant Name: Leon de Lyon

Michelin Rating: Two stars

Address: 1 rue Pléney, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-72-10-11-12

Description: Leon de Lyon is one of the most prominent restaurants in the

area, due mainly to chef Jean-Paul Lacombe's innovative uses of the region's

butter, cream, and foie gras. Some of his signature dishes include fillet

of veal with celery, and a suckling pig that comes with foie gras, onions,

and a truffle salad. The building has a 19th-century feel, complete with

wood paneling and small alcoves. Reservations are essential, and a jacket is

required.

**Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes**

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $54, $197, $136 (bunny -- Look at these prices for Leon de Lyon, esp. the $54 -- do not rely on this unless you verify it yourself, but not at the time you reserve)

**Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes**

Cabrales: Never been, but on my list for some time.

Restaurant Name: Pierre Orsi

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 3 pl. Kléber, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-78-89-57-68

Description: Pierre Orsi is located in a tiny tree-lined square, furnished

in luxury. Marble floors, brocade draperies, bronze nudes, and gilt-frame

paintings make it "glamorously festive." Dress is formal, and reservations

are a must. Here, diners find that the deserts are equally fabulous.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - $105

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Cabrales: Never been, also on my list. My liking of Troisgros' cuisine leads me to go there over many other Lyon-and-environs options.

Restaurant Name: Les Terrasses de Lyon

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 25 Montee St-Barthelemy, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-72-56-56-56

Description: No description available.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Restaurant Name: Rotonde

Michelin Rating: Two stars

Address: at the Casino Le Lyon Vert, 200, avenue du Casino, 69890 La Tour de

Salvagny, France

Phone: 33-4-78-87-02-70

Description: Rotonde features traditional cooking from the provence region.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $73, $90, $107

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Restaurant Name: Christian Tetedoie

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 53-54, quai Pierre-Scize 69005 Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-78-29-40-10

Description: Tetedoie is a disciple of Bocuse, though he adds his personal

touches to the learned skills of his master.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - 3 menus priced at $26, $43, $68 (bunny -- Again, look at these prices for a one-star; you should consider transportation costs as well)

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Restaurant Name: L'Auberge de Fond Rose

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 23, quai Clémenceau. Caluire

Phone: 33-4-78-29-34-61

Description: L'Auberge de Fond Rose is widely known as one of the best

restaurants in the area. They are regarded as having classic service and

talented chefs.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Yes - Called a "business menu" priced at

$37

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Restaurant Name: Larivoire

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 26, Chemin des Iles, 69140 Rillieux-la-Pape, France

Phone: 33-4-78-88-50-92

Description: The restaurant Larivoire is located about 10 minutes from the

center of Lyon in a quaint country house. Proprietor Chantal Constantin

welcomes diners with a warm smile and kind demeanor.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Restaurant Name: Auberge de L'Ile

Michelin Rating: Two stars

Address: Place Notre Dame, L'Ile Barbe, 69009, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-78-83-99-49

Description: Auberge de L'Ile is located in a former home of French royalty.

The atmosphere has kept its old-fashioned charm, though the cooking is quite

contemporary.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Information unavailable

until tomorrow

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: Information unavailable until tomorrow

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Information until tomorrow

Restaurant Name: Gourmet de Seze

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 129, rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-78-24-23-42

Description: No description available.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: No

Restaurant Name: L'Alexandrin

Michelin Rating: One star

Address: 83 Rue Moncey, Lyon, France

Phone: 33-4-72-61-15-69

Description: No description available.

Open for Lunch on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

Tasting menu for lunch? Price?: $49

Open for Dinner on Thursday, November 28, 2002: Yes

bunny -- There is also Les Loges, where Le Bec works. He was the cuisinier of the year for Gault-Millau. However, I have not eaten at his facility. Other possibilities I mentioned: Le Splendide, bistro of Georges Blanc; La Mere Brazier (see thread by that name).

If I were in your shoes, I would go to Paul Bocuse and either Les Loges or Leon de Lyons. Leon de Lyons has more traditional cooking; Les Loges apparently less. However, my personal sentimental favorite would be La Mere Brazier (recently lost single star). If you decide on Paul Bocuse, I can see if the menu I have contains prices.

[Bux]

Bunny, I am in France now. Could you contact me after the first of November when we return. I hope I can offer some good advice. It's really difficult for me to say much from a cybercafe. First I have things I want to do here that, of course, I can't do back home in NY. Then, it's realy difficult to type here as they've switched all the keys on me.

I seem to recall that the Carlton has reasonably inexpensive rooms. It's a very nice hotel, but it has rooms, if I'm not mistaken that are less than 100 euros. If you don't have a reservation by the time we get back, my wife can check her consortia rates for the Carlton.

I'd question the need to dine at Bocuse. As a matter of history, you can't deny Paul Bocuse's importance, but his current relevancy may be questionable. It's also a very expensive ride by taxi. One can eat very well in Lyon for the price of a one way fare. Find Lizzie's post on Auberge de L'Ile. I've not eaten there, but she makes a compelling argument for the restaurant. Les Loges, Leon de Lyon and Orsi might be my suggestions from experience. Lyon is also a place to eat tripe and I'd suggest it in the form of an andouillette. Do not expect anything like what you may find posturing by that name in Louisiana. This is French soul food and the thing many of us crave more than haute cuisine. In fact, if this is your first trip to France, you need to experience the unique foods that France has to offer.

[lizziee]

Bunny,

Since you mentioned an interest in contemporary cuisine, I would highly recommend Auberge de L'Ile. The chef speaks perfect English and presents the menu himself. It was a wonderful experience.

As I mentioned in my post, Leon de Lyon was, for us, a much better experience at lunch. Many of our favorite dishes were not on the dinner menu. Bux, is absolutely correct when he states that here you will experience true French "soul food."

Other than quenelles at Christian Tetedoie, we were very disappointed.

I haven't been to Bocuse in years, but other than for historic value, the food was mediocre. The restaurant at Villa Florentine was also not a "must" eat, but again that is based on a meal there 4 years ago.

A knowledgeable "local" raved about Rotonde, but I have not eaten there.

To find, my full posts on the above, see below.

Leon de Lyon

http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...ST&f=10&t=12046

Christian Tetedoie

http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...64c46601cce523e

Auberge de L'Ile

http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...=10&t=9768&st=0

Hope this helps.

[cabrales]

I was at Paul Bocuse recently and the food was mediocre, even signature dishes like the truffle soup VGE. So if Bocuse were bunny's choice, it would have to be predicated on historical significance of the chef to French cuisine, rather than deliciousness or inventiveness of the cuisine.

[cabrales]

bunny -- When you have a chance, please provide some guidance of additional assistance you may require. The following is a description of a 3Q 2001 meal at Le Splendid, George Blanc's brasserie in Lyons (it is opposite one of the Bocuse bistros named after compass directions):

A very reasonably priced meal (less than the equivalent of 40 euros), with a glass of house red ordered. The quenelle de brochet -- my notes indicate the following in quotes, perhaps suggesting the description is from the restaurant menu: "a tender, oversize sausage shaped dumpling of pike with a creamy shellfish sauce" (a specialty of the Lyon region; only average; La Mere Brazier, the creator of this dish, has a better version). Poulet de Bresse -- "Blanc poaches them in cream sauce", "a molded round of chicken-stock-infused rice". A fairly good dish, although its cream sauce is much simpler than the versions I have had at Blanc (e.g., G7) in Vonnas. If bunny is happy to pay more, it might be better to select a more gastronomic restaurant.

A very summary description of my meal at Paul Bocuse during 2001 follows:

Soupe aux truffes noires VGE (Black truffle soup VGE; a signature dish) -- Arriving in a specially inscribed bowl, the truffle soup has puff pastry on top. When a spoon was inserted, the slow give of the pastry seemed promising, but the aroma of truffles did not permeate my senses, as I would have expected, when I placed my face very close to the top of the pastry. In fact, there was no aroma from the truffles. The soup was a bit on the salty side, and the black truffle slices were soggy and disappointing.

Filets de sole aux nouilles Fernand Point (Sole with noodles, Fernand Point) -- A large portion of fish, The sauce was a creamy white sauce with some elements of cheese (gratin-like effect). This was bad, because the sole did not have flavor. The sauce was overwhelming, and unappealing, and the noodles were mediocre. How could such a mediocre dish be named after F Point?

Fricasee de volaille de Bresse a la creme et a l'estragon (Fricasee of Bresse chicken with cream and tarragon) -- This was very poor. The sauce brought to mind airplane food, as though it had been reheated by the grotesque little ovens on airplanes, because it carried that indescribable smell of reheating. The texture of the chicken was also poor.

PB was a three-star where I had reservations for two meals, but had to cancel the second reservation due to the quality of the food. However, I am going to revisit soon to sample the fish in a pastry crust and the chicken cooked in a pig's bladder. I will try the truffle soup again to confirm the last poor version was indicative of its general quality.

[pirate]

to Cabrales

quote:"Filets de sole aux nouilles Fernand Point (Sole with noodles, Fernand Point) -- A large portion of fish, The sauce was a creamy white sauce with some elements of cheese (gratin-like effect). This was bad, because the sole did not have flavor. The sauce was overwhelming, and unappealing, and the noodles were mediocre. How could such a mediocre dish be named after F Point?"

This dish was probably originated by Point. Bocuse probably added Point's name for reasons of his own. Please do not blame Point for Bocuse's lousy execution. I do think the conception of the dish as described is not very good. Perhaps only Fernand Point could do something with it.

[cabrales]

pirate -- Note I was not intending to cast blame on F Point. I did check whether this sole dish was in Ma Gastronomie (it is not). There is Sole au Gratin, but that appears to involve a whole sole and includes sliced mushrooms and breadcrumbs. Furthermore, the Sole au Gratin is indicated to be served in the baking dish, in contrast to the presentation of the sole at PB.

I do not blame anybody for poor meals. It's part of the experience. One can't expect excellent meals with any frequency, even in France.

[jaybee]

also is there anywhere in lyon where one could pickup some fine kitchenwere.

Your quest for knives and kitchen equipment might be best served by asking the staff at Troigros. They should know the best non-tourist outlets for this stuff.

[cabrales]

bunny -- Troisgros has some Heinkel (spelling) kitchen knives that have beautifully curved handles and the "Troisgros" name engraved on the handle. They come in several sizes, are are under $100 each for most. You might want to get one or two. I plan to buy one or two myself, or the Alessi spice rack I saw there last. You can also buy some flavored oils with the Troisgros label. The last time I went to Roanne, I was lugging back decanters and plates (I collect plates from three star restaurants) as well.

[bunny]

the two meals i plan on having outside of troisgros would be one lunch and dinner. for lunch i want to have a good meal but am not relly looking for something to knock my scoks off i would actually now that i think about it like to have a trad. meal for lunch. so that i can experice what someone from this region would eat. i am leaning toward leon de lyon right now.

for dinner however i do want my scoks knocked off. althogh i would love to try PB for various reason, historal and such i have heard many mixed reviews of his place. auberge de l'ile is also what i am leaning towards.

cabby: as far as the henckels go is it just the 5 star line with his name on it or is it a line designed by him. although most of my current tools consist of henckels i am slowly replacing them all as i am not to happy with the edge that they hold and other design reasons.

[cabrales]

bunny -- Not being informed about Henckels' characteristics, I do not know.

If you are looking for cuisine quality and not focusing on history, I would not recommend PB. La Mere Brazier is quite traditional -- it has the pike quenelle and you can also sample Bresse chicken. The prices are relatively low as well, and the restaurant has history. You might want to check whether the restaurant is open for the day of the lunch in question.

[lizziee]

the two meals i plan on having outside of troisgros would be one lunch and dinner. for lunch i want to have a good meal but am not relly looking for something to knock my scoks off i would actually now that i think about it like to have a trad. meal for lunch. so that i can experice what someone from this region would eat. i am leaning toward  leon de lyon right now.

for dinner however i do want my scoks knocked off. althogh i would love to try PB for various reason, historal and such i have heard many mixed reviews of his place. auberge de l'ile is also what i am leaning towards.

cabby: as far as the henckels go is it just the 5 star line with his name on it or is it a line designed by him. although most of my current tools consist of henckels i am slowly replacing them all as i am not to happy with the edge that they hold and other design reasons.

bunny,

I can't reccommend Auberge de L'Ile more highly. What would be fun for you is that as he presents the menu himself as well as the wine list, it would give you a chance to really talk and "pick his brains a bit." (Again, he speaks perfect English).

As for kitchen equipment, I would go with jaybee's suggestion. In fact, I would e-mail Troisgros and ask where their staff buys their knives etc. If all else fails, Dehillerin in Paris has a catalogue - a cook's candy store!

[bunny]

i just booked auberge de l'ile for dinner.

[Bux]

as far as the bouchons go i have heard about them but don't relly understand what they are. from what i understand and this may be a bad way to put it but is it something similar to like a pizzaera where you go in and have a nice quick type of meal. or am i way off.

Bouchons are a local Lyonnaise sort of bistro. They're small informal places serving typical food and regional wine--such as beaujolais, but they are by no means a place for a quick meal or snack. Lyonnaise food is generally heavy food and one is expected to have three courses, although these days many people often seem to have just two dishes--either an entree and a plat, or a plat and a dessert. In France, reasonably enough, an entree is the name of your entry course, not your main course.

I associate Lyon with tripe and andouillette and tablier de sapeur are two of the most Lyonnaise dishes I want when in Lyon. Basically, we're talking chitlins--rolled in a casing in the form of a sausage in andouillette and a flat piece of stomach that's breaded and fried for the latter which is loosely translated as fireman's apron, although as earlier discussed on this board, a sapeur is actually some sort of military engineer. In any event, neither of these are exactly delicate or haute cuisine, but they represent Lyon to me and unlike frog's legs and snails, they haven't crossed the ocean. Other traditional Lyonnaise foods include tripe stews, sausages and potato gratins. I've always thought of frisee, lardons, croutons and soft boiled egg as salade Lyonnaise, but Patricia Wells says there should be herring as well.

On the whole, France is becoming very homogenized and rather international. Lyonnaise cooking is less evident than it used to be. Paul Bocuse has opened several bistros in Lyon. All are reported to be decent and good value. We've eaten in Sud, his bistro devoted to Mediterranean foods. It was okay, but with it's Provencal-Italian-North African influences, it seemed more like something I'd expect to find in NYC, than in Lyon. Offhand, I can't recommend a particular bouchon and I've heard that some of the really old established ones have become very touristic with an accompanying loss of quality.

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate member input on L'Auberge de Fond Rose.

Also, input on what restaurants (apart from Bocuse, Les Loges' bistro affiliate and La Mere Brazier, potentially) might be open on Sundays for lunch would be appreciated.

[lizziee]

Cabrales,

I would highly recommend Auberge de I'lle which is open for lunch on Sunday. This is my review which I posted before.

Lyon--Auberge de l'lle

It is hard to call a 2 Michelin Star restaurant a "discovery", but Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex just received his second star in March. There does not seem to be much "buzz" about this restaurant in the States.

This is a wonderful restaurant located at Ile Barbe about 20 minutes outside of Lyon in an old country house built in the 1600s. It was a tough find for the cab driver as it is down next to the river under some bridges.

We had champagne and amuse outside in a tree-shaded courtyard. The chef, himself, presented the amuse and explained to us what we would be eating. (His English is perfect as he has an ex-wife who now lives in Marina del Rey in Los Angeles).

The amuse were:

1. 3 types of vegetable crisps--beet, potato and bundles of basil, parsley and cilantro.

2. baby shrimp in what he described as Japanese mustard, but it tasted more like wasabi and a touch of honey. The dish was presented in a wonton crisp. Unlike an Asian-inspired dish that we had had at George Blanc a couple of nights before, this had just the right balance of Asian flavors.

3. a canapé presented on a toothpick - the bottom layer sliced potato, then blood sausage (a Lyon specialty) and a round roasted shallot on top.

We were then presented with the menu and the wine list.

The menu is not a listing of dishes. On one side there was a poem by the chef describing the end of summer "terroir." On the other side it simply said 3 dishes 72 euro or 5 dishes, 90 euro with no description of the dishes.

Again, the chef reappeared and he described each dish in detail. He does this for each table so it is a good thing that this is a small restaurant. He also acts as his own sommelier.

WINE:

His choices to accompany his food:

95 Chassagne-Montrached, Premier Cru "Les Ruchottes", Ramonet--a great choice with the early courses.

96 Saint-Joseph, Cuvee du Papy, Domaine du Monteillet, Antoine Montez (Chavanay)--a producer we did not know--the chef mentioned that he was one of Montez's first customers and that he gets a good allocation of a very limited amount of the wine. He was pleased to share his discovery with us.

The wine turned out to be a perfect representative of the region. Full bodied, fruity, solid and big--delicious and well paired with the meat and the cheese. We certainly appreciated the Chef/Sommelier's guidance.

We were shown to our table in a small room at the front of the 1600's house. The ceiling is planked and the floor is the original stone flooring. There were 5 tables in this area and a side board serving table in the center. The Chef has created a display case with Michelin Red guides dating back to 1919. Above the case there was a raised dining area with one large round table for 8.

The feeling is that of dining in someone's home. The staff is very welcoming and excited to have you as a guest.

The amuse at the table--a cold pureed gazpacho soup served in a tall shot glass with a round avocado ball and a fried oyster skewered on a toothpick laid across the top of the glass--delicious and pretty.

1st course--mushroom soup, with a cappuccino foam served lukewarm. The incredible part of this soup was the briefly sautéed small chunks of foie gras that you "discovered" as you ate the dish.

2nd course--just roasted gamba (large reddish prawn) in the shell with sweet spices, fruit chutney of apples, plums, and raisins. This dish could have been over-wrought or "too much". Instead, it was well balanced and done with restraint. The chef used the words "sweet spices" to refer to the Indian spices he used.

3rd course--sautéed rouget on a bed of potatoes that looked like potatoes Anna with cepes, a crisp bacon strip and a uni sauce. This was the least successful dish. The potatoes were somewhat soggy and needed more crispiness, both for taste and texture. The cepes were good, but no match for Regis Marcon's freshly foraged ones from the Ardeche fields. The uni sauce was not as intense as other ones we have had, maybe due to the incredible quality of sea urchin available now in Maine and Santa Barbara.

4th course - guinea hen with a cepe mushroom red wine sauce with crunchy bits of chestnuts and plump wild cherries. Absolutely wonderful!! This dish really showed off the chef's talent.

5th course--as soon as we had finished the hen, I heard our server say to the chef--they are ready--they just finished the hen.

This was his notice to fire the next dish.

About 10 minutes later, we were presented with large white bowls which had steel ring molds placed in the center. Together the chef and our server removed the rings and out oozed "risotto" in a red wine porcini mushroom sauce. The rice was cooked just until creamy and with some crunch--his timing was perfect.

The chef apologized at this point because he had to leave for a meeting at 3:00 PM and he was already 40 minutes late. The chef, of course, did not leave immediately. He mentioned that the second Michelin star is just the starting point for his career. He is just 36 and is passionate about his profession. (As an aside, the chef can't use his right arm as he was crippled from a bad auto accident about 10 years ago.)

He is also very enthusiastic about the work of other chefs.

He has visited The French Laundry in each of the past 3 years and admires Thomas Keller immensely.

Everything at Auberge de l'lle shows the dedication of the entire staff.

They are in the process of constructing a cigar room on the second floor. A beautiful private dining room is in place. Even the bathrooms are unique. You climb a small circular staircase, you arrive at the toilettes--the only thing that distinguishes male from female is the halo of blue and pink illuminating the glass doors.

After the chef left, we had cheese and an array of desserts and coffee. By this time, I had put down the note pad and spent my time savoring the dessert wine that the chef offered us.

All in all, a wonderful "find" for us in Lyon and a restaurant experience I would recommend highly.

[cabrales]

lizziee -- Thanks I have reservations for a Saturday dinner at Auberge de L'Ill. Even though certain current guides indicated the place is open for lunch on Sundays and the place used to be so open, it might no longer be. I called the restaurant and was advised of that recently.

Edited January 24, 2003 by cabrales (log)