Memorable wines with food

[Florida Jim]

Smoked salmon spread with crackers:

2004 Stéphen Tissot, Chardonnay:

Well, what do you know; it smells like chardonnay; not butter, or vanilla or (insert your none fruit descriptor here), but real chardonnay; and it tastes like premier cru Chablis without the steely/hard edged element and with a little more soft, ripe fruit; still it has a good acidic backbone, is focused, complete and well balanced; long, fruit driven finish. It’s like drinking already aged Chablis that has more ripe fruit and viscosity yet still has the ‘crisp’ in it. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Imports and about $23; my candidate for white wine of the year – and a QPR stand-out.

Good with the food and good without it. A wine that will certainly age but that drinks very well today – Vive la Jura!

Left over Coq au vin with extra veggies on pasta:

2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos:

A bit hollow on the nose with some black fruit and the smell of tannin; similar on the palate with a closed delivery; balance slanted toward the tannin and structural elements of the wine; a whole lot longer than expected considering the nose and palate. A mencia that has more promise than payoff these days and one that is both interesting and a lot more complex than anticipated. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rare Wine Company and about $16 on release; I’d buy more.

Although this wine gives every indication that it is closed, with the food it sang. The structure, so much in evidence absent food, calmed and the fruit came alive; the dish and the wine really complimenting each other. A much better pairing than first impressions would predict.

Diane and I visited friends for a vegetarian Thanksgiving that was mostly beans, potatoes, stuffing and mushroom gravy:

2003 Puffeny, Pinot Noir Arbois:

One of the best pinots I have tasted this year; richly fruited and spicy; deep, concentrated flavors of fruit and earth, a pleasant dryness and a smooth texture, all very well balanced, bright and quite long in the mouth. The epitome of the variety in a clean focused style. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $32 on release; so much better than other pinots at that price point as to be a no brainer. Vive la Jura!

Very nice with the fare.

Pasta with white beans, garlic, broccoli, chopped tomatoes and feta:

2004 Stéphen Tissot, Chardonnay:

Again, Vive la Jura!

Excellent with the meal as the flavors of both the wine and food are at the same intensity and the wine matches the food very well.

Pork tenderloin, sweet potatoes and grilled asparagus:

2005 Alesia, Syrah Fairview Ranch Vnyd.:

Alesia is the second label of Rhys and this vineyard is in the Santa Lucia Highlands; very closed on day one – recorked and left on the counter overnight; on day two it shows a penetrating nose of poop, meat, Baker’s chocolate and very dark fruit – complex and captivating; the palate is more savory than sweet with flavors that follow the nose in layers, considerable minerality, huge concentration, intense and powerful but without heaviness, gives the impression of having a “matt finish” and is well structured and balanced; excellent length. Still somewhat closed on day two but unquestionably the most impressive domestic syrah I have tasted and it demonstrates remarkable potential. This will never be confused with European or Australian versions of the grape but it is also atypical to the predominant CA style and delivers a level of interest that few wines from anywhere do. A great wine by any definition thereof and best kept in the cellar for a few years – I will relish following this one for the next decade or so. 14.25% alcohol, price unknown (not yet released); it would be hard to have too much of this wine.

Shrimp sautéed with butter and thyme, Cesar salad and olive bread:

2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux:

Fresh on the nose with lemon custard, fresh air and mineral scents; deep on the palate and lots of complexity in the lemon, herb, mineral range with plenty of tart and good sustain. This is still a little closed but it gives ample reason to drink soon. 13% alcohol, imported by Wine Cellars, Ltd. and about $82; worth it.

Outstanding with both the shrimp and the salad; counter-point to the shrimp, accompaniment to the salad. Yum.

Left-over pork loin and pasta with gorgonzola:

1999 Jasmin, Côte Rôtie:

Shy nose of dirt and red fruit – smells tannic; more happening in the mouth with red and black fruit, Baker’s chocolate, earth and mineral tones, weightless but intense, savory and perfectly balanced; long, slightly drying finish. Still closed and needing cellar time but sharing many of the attributes of the Alesia, syrah noted above. Unquestionably fine with many years to peak. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $35 on release; in today’s market, stealing.

Becomes sweeter with the pasta dish and the fruit brightens; good also with the pork. A wine of harmony that seems to make the meal more harmonious by its force.

Best, Jim

[HappyLab]

As always, thanks for the great tasting notes, Jim. What is the designation of the Tissot Chardonnay? Based on your review, I added it to my wishlist, but an internet search comes up with several designations, all at similar price points.

[Florida Jim]

As always, thanks for the great tasting notes, Jim.  What is the designation of the Tissot Chardonnay?  Based on your review, I added it to my wishlist, but an internet search comes up with several designations, all at similar price points.

←

Its the cheap one.

(I know that designations are used by retailers/wholesalers but I can't find them on the label.)

Best, Jim

[HappyLab]

As always, thanks for the great tasting notes, Jim.  What is the designation of the Tissot Chardonnay?  Based on your review, I added it to my wishlist, but an internet search comes up with several designations, all at similar price points.

←

Its the cheap one.

(I know that designations are used by retailers/wholesalers but I can't find them on the label.)

Best, Jim

←

Thanks!