Where to recommend first time visitors to eat

[Busboy]

There are many sources of bad bread in Paris. A good guide will be a great help.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I'd also like to hit a nightclub for at least one night, but I keep reading what misery it is to find a cab after 1pm. Anyone know where I can find a map that shows the routes of the night Autobus du nuit and Noctambus?

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The Noctambus has been incorporated into a new system, the Noctilien.

[docsconz]

Try the Canal St Martin for people watching. It is off the tourist path for the most part and fun to sit and watch life going by.

I think John's advice of eating lunch out and dinner in is great. You will be able to get reservations at nicer places for a sweeter price. It is one of the few times you may be able to snag a table at Le Comptoir.

It is very hard to gain weight in Paris. I usually don't even take the bus. I arm myself with a map and just walk. Even if you get lost, there is never a metro very far away.

Have a wonderful time, Paris is the most wonderful city in the world.

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There is a great little wine shop near the Canal St. Martin - le Verre Volé. They also serve food that is supposed to be pretty good, although I can not give a first hand validation of that. They do have a nice selection of wine and decent prices though.

[docsconz]

I'll be in Paris for 9 days. Hooray. It was even fun writing that. I've started planning by just having a simple itinerary of things I want to see grouped together by location.

The day I go to the Louvre, I'll have a list of other sites nearby and places to eat.

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If you go to The Musee D'Orsay (and you should) there is a lot nearby for food. Amongst others Le Comptoir is not far. It is also a great area for chocolates, pastries and Marie-Anne Cantin, a lovely cheese shop, is not far if walking towards the Eiffel Tower.

It was just about one year ago that I was last there. I miss it and envy you.

[Busboy]

I'll be in Paris for 9 days. Hooray. It was even fun writing that. I've started planning by just having a simple itinerary of things I want to see grouped together by location.

The day I go to the Louvre, I'll have a list of other sites nearby and places to eat.

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If you go to The Musee D'Orsay (and you should) there is a lot nearby for food. Amongst others Le Comptoir is not far. It is also a great area for chocolates, pastries and Marie-Anne Cantin, a lovely cheese shop, is not far if walking towards the Eiffel Tower.

It was just about one year ago that I was last there. I miss it and envy you.

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If you follow Doc's advice and head towards Marie Cantin, there is an excellent boulangerie roughly between the Museum and the cheese shop, Poujauran, 20 rue Jean-Nicot.

If you have a warm day/evening and are considering a picnic in the Orsay/Tour Eifel neighborhood (the 7th) you might consider Poujouran, M-C and the Rue Cler Market which may not be Paris' best (if I know about it, it must be "discovered") but which is around the corner from the two shops and not far from either the Tour or the Musee. The Cafe du Marche on the corner makes a fine watering hole, as well.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

If you follow Doc's advice and head towards Marie Cantin, there is an excellent boulangerie roughly between the Museum and the cheese shop, Poujauran, 20 rue Jean-Nicot. 

If you get to Poujauran, stop next door at Bellota Bellota (18, rue Jean Nicot) and buy the smallest qauntity of Pata Negra ham they will sell you. It will be enough, and expensive enough, but something you will always remember. (My husband and I bought 100 grams, and while it was lovely, could have had the same experience with less.)

[docsconz]

If you follow Doc's advice and head towards Marie Cantin, there is an excellent boulangerie roughly between the Museum and the cheese shop, Poujauran, 20 rue Jean-Nicot. 

If you get to Poujauran, stop next door at Bellota Bellota (18, rue Jean Nicot) and buy the smallest qauntity of Pata Negra ham they will sell you. It will be enough, and expensive enough, but something you will always remember. (My husband and I bought 100 grams, and while it was lovely, could have had the same experience with less.)

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UMMM, ham, cheese and bread...what could be better than that for a picnic? Well, throw in a little wine, then some fresh fruit and chocolate for dessert.

[Pork Belly]

If you follow Doc's advice and head towards Marie Cantin, there is an excellent boulangerie roughly between the Museum and the cheese shop, Poujauran, 20 rue Jean-Nicot. 

If you get to Poujauran, stop next door at Bellota Bellota (18, rue Jean Nicot) and buy the smallest qauntity of Pata Negra ham they will sell you. It will be enough, and expensive enough, but something you will always remember. (My husband and I bought 100 grams, and while it was lovely, could have had the same experience with less.)

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I think I read somewhere earlier this year that Jean-Luc Pourjauran no longer owns the bakery. Can anyone confirm this?

[Fai Jackson]

If you follow Doc's advice and head towards Marie Cantin, there is an excellent boulangerie roughly between the Museum and the cheese shop, Poujauran, 20 rue Jean-Nicot. 

If you get to Poujauran, stop next door at Bellota Bellota (18, rue Jean Nicot) and buy the smallest qauntity of Pata Negra ham they will sell you. It will be enough, and expensive enough, but something you will always remember. (My husband and I bought 100 grams, and while it was lovely, could have had the same experience with less.)

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I think I read somewhere earlier this year that Jean-Luc Pourjauran no longer owns the bakery. Can anyone confirm this?

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It is true. He is providing directly to restaurants now, with no retail.

[Fai Jackson]

Is there anything like hopstop.com(for NY) in Paris, where you type in your starting destination and ending and you receive details for how to get there via bus and metro. Mappy.com seems to only give driving and walking directions.

Thanks!

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Sure, you need ratp.fr

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However, go to WH Smith and purchase the little book Paris par Arrondisement and carry it with you. It is very detailed street maps of Paris and has a metro and bus map as well as street maps for the outlying suburbs (baniliues) and other helpful items.

[John Talbott]

Is there anything like hopstop.com(for NY) in Paris, where you type in your starting destination and ending and you receive details for how to get there via bus and metro. Mappy.com seems to only give driving and walking directions.

Thanks!

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Sure, you need ratp.fr

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However, go to WH Smith and purchase the little book Paris par Arrondisement and carry it with you. It is very detailed street maps of Paris and has a metro and bus map as well as street maps for the outlying suburbs (baniliues) and other helpful items.

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I happen to be someone who finds Paris par Arrondisement hard to read and the Michelin Blue #11 Atlas much easier, esp since you can see more than a page at the time. It's slightly larger tho. On the other hand, that said, for the burbs (say to go to Les Magnolias, l'Escarbille, Pere Lapin, etc., Paris par Arrondisement is a must). Also you'll see young Parisiens reading these teeny, tiny Metro maps; do yourself a favor and pick up the #2 Grand Plan de Paris free at big Metro stations; it has buses on one side and metro/RER on the other and tucks nicely into the #11 booklet.

[I_call_the_duck]

Not as if you need another recommendation on a travel guide, but I'm also a big fan of the Time Out guides. On Time Out Paris, you can download the "Paris Free Guide". Although it's from last year, you’ll find is a great street map (including Metro stops), as well as maps of the transit systems.

Also, wikitravel has great maps of the city that you can print out prior to your trip. Unfortunately, they only do the first 13th arrondisments, and of course, carrying around print-outs is a lot bulkier than carrying a little book.

[John DePaula]

Not as if you need another recommendation on a travel guide, but I'm also a big fan of the Time Out guides.  On Time Out Paris, you can download the "Paris Free Guide".  Although it's from last year, you’ll find is a great street map (including Metro stops), as well as maps of the transit systems.

Also, wikitravel has great maps of the city that you can print out prior to your trip.  Unfortunately, they only do the first 13th arrondisments, and of course, carrying around print-outs is a lot bulkier than carrying a little book.

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And since you'll be staying in the 15th...

[I_call_the_duck]

Not as if you need another recommendation on a travel guide, but I'm also a big fan of the Time Out guides.   On Time Out Paris, you can download the "Paris Free Guide".  Although it's from last year, you’ll find is a great street map (including Metro stops), as well as maps of the transit systems.

Also, wikitravel has great maps of the city that you can print out prior to your trip.  Unfortunately, they only do the first 13th arrondisments, and of course, carrying around print-outs is a lot bulkier than carrying a little book.

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And since you'll be staying in the 15th...

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Yeah, makes no sense. But the other maps come in handy if you want to carry around tons of paper.

[Catriona]

Ok, so if you're on Rue Blomet, and around the corner from Rue Lecourbe, you're in a great area for good food. it's where my husband grew up and where his parents still live, so my images of Paris are all about that street.

The best bread around there is on rue Cambronne, just at the corner of rue Lecourbe and rue Cambronne. They also do good petits fours (both sweet and savoury). Across the street on rue lecourbe, there's a good fruit shop and a fish shop. There's a great cheese shop just there which does almost only goats cheeses. Delicious!

For cakes etc, there are beautiful ones at the Grande Epicerie at the Bon Marche, but there's also LeNotre, if you don't feel like trekking all that way! (it's about a 10 minute walk to the Bon Marche from the top of rue Lecourbe).

I wish I could remember the name of the road, but the Maison du Sud-Ouest just off rue Lecourbe is the one to go to - if you're looking towards Bvd garibaldi (the elevated railway bridge), it's a road to the right, sllightly diagonally off r lecourbe, almost opposite the Monoprix. (monoprix is good and open late if you need any staples)

There's a really good traiteur too, it's on the same side of rue lecourbe. And a greek one that has good stuff if you want some variety.

For a slightly touristy lunch, walk up to the Invalides, along Avenue Breteuil (beautiful place... ), and just at the top, on the left, there's a restaurant called Le vauban - sit outside with the dome of the invalides glinting out the corner of your eye, and have your croque monsieur and salade verte. Or around the other side of it, (towards rue st dominique I think), there's the Costes... oh wait, it's not called Costes now, but it's owned by the people who own the v smart hotel costes on the faubourg st honore - and have good food but better people watching. People will know it as Costes!

If you want a hearty southwestern meal, go to that place on the rue Bonvin which has been mentioned. le troquet.

DEFINITELY pierre herme ... pastries as jewellery.

Don't forget that most things are closed on Sundays.

I think i'd spend most of my time cooking at home.. I'd eat out at lunch and spend the day shopping for whatever feast I was going to make that night.

Oh god, it's months since we've been, I must find an excuse to see the parents-in-law soon. I can't wait for seafood season at christmas. I giggle like an idiot.

[FoodMuse]

Hi Catriona,

I am not staying on Rue Blomet, but instead Rue Plumet.

The street you're talking about doesn't look all that far from where I'll be so maybe I can still use your list of great places. Like New York, it's hard to get a feeling of just how big a block is. In some areas of NY I'd just as soon take a bus that walk 6 megablocks.

Here is a Mappy.com of Rue Plumet where I'll stay and a route to Rue Blomet. You are the second person to think I wrote blomet, that must be a really great neighborhood.

Thank you for taking time to write out your ideas.

Regarding maps and such: I'll have to give some thought to how many sheets of notes and little helpful books would be worth lugging around the city all day with me.

My brother just told me about all the mediocre to not very good meals he had in Paris a few months ago, because he didn't bother to think about where he might eat. Is it possible we are not related?

Grace

[Catriona]

I wonder is rue des volontaires the one that has the maison du sud-ouest on it... I think it may be. So yes, you're just around the corner. Congratulations on picking a great neighbourhood! All the shops that I mentioned are just on that stretch of rue lecourbe.

Oh the envy...

[LindaK]

Try the Canal St Martin for people watching. It is off the tourist path for the most part and fun to sit and watch life going by.

There is a great little wine shop near the Canal St. Martin - le Verre Volé. They also serve food that is supposed to be pretty good, although I can not give a first hand validation of that. They do have a nice selection of wine and decent prices though.

le Verre Volé is a wonderful little place. but I mean little. Last December I stopped by around 11 pm midweek and there wasn't room to move with maybe 30 people in the room. Food is very simple but tasty, more like substantial snacks than full meals. On that note, one of my favorite bargain type place in Paris is a wine bar. The food tends to be straightforward regional food, but in the best sense of the word. And the wines can be a bargain. There are some wine bar threads and discussions in this forum that will give you some ideas.

I envy you your first trip to Paris. Actually, I envy anyone going to Paris whenever. Your trip will be great. Don't worry about the language. Do your best, be polite in French if you can. Even when my French totally sucked, people were generally very nice to me.

[FoodMuse]

Hi

I am becoming so tremendously excited about this trip. I'm working on daily itineraries most of which will, I'm sure, be discarded. Anyway I have been picking areas I want to visit and then finding good food nearby.

I plan on some days just roaming around, but I've been burned in the past with this kind of travel....where I miss seeing great sites and eat badly.

Are there any restaurants I should have lunch at near the Louvre. I'm planning on going on a Wednesday or Friday when it's open until 9:45.

I promise to post pics of food I eat and my impressions of the restaurants.

-Grace

[FoodMuse]

I just realized my request was rather vague. I'd like to spend under $40 / 31 euros per person for lunch including wine and I'd like traditional French food from any region.

Thanks!!

[ljr]

I am in a hurry so I didn´t read all the above posts so apologies if I am repeating anything.... We usually swap apartments when we visit Paris also - the only way to visit imho.

The first time we visited I wanted to figure out the city so I went to a different market every morning and bought all round me which I then brought home for lunch. If you want to limit your spend however eating out for lunch instead of the evening makes more sense. the markets are in the morning as you probably know so you could go to a different market and buy food for dinner then nip home to drop off your purchases before heading out for the day.

For boulangeries make sure you ask for Pain Tradition or Pain a la ancien as it is worlds apart from the anaemic white bread sold by most boulangeries. It is made with just water, stoneground flour, yeast or sourdough starter and salt but the variation in quality is enormous. Every Spring there is a competition among the bakeries with the winner getting the honour of supplying the Elysee palace (Chirac) with bread for the year. Current holder of the title is -

Jean-Pierre Cohier – 270, rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8 arr), lauréat du Grand Prix de la Baguette 2006 de la Ville de Paris.

Jeffrey Steingarten has an excellent article on the competition in either his first or second collection as he was a judge one year.

Past winners include Gosselin and Julien on Rue St. Honore in the 1st arr (a street you will probably find yourself on). both have outstanding bread (Julien is the most consistent in paris in my view) and are near each other (you will see queues). Paul is a chain that is pretty good also. If you really want to explore the world of the boulangerie you could watch for a copy of this book in any decent sized book shop such as those in the Latin Quarter...

Cherchez les Pain - Guide des Meilleures Boulangeries de Paris

Amazon seem to be out of stock but you should find it easy enough. My copy is at home and I am in Spain as I write this. The book is in french but the ratings are easily decipherable.

Other boulangeries worth a visit include A la Flute Gana 226 rue des Pyrenees (20th). http://www.maison-kayser.com/ is excellent and justly famous at 5 rue Basse des Carmes 5th arr. La fournée d'Augustine, 96 rue Raymond Losserand (14e) won it in 2004 and the bread is outstanding but it is a bit of a trek just for some bread as there is nothing else to see in the area (I wrote an article on paris bread that year so I had to visit). Nearly forgot you also need to visit Poilane at rue des cherches midi. on our first time in the city I visited on the morning of my final day and bought a still warm bread (they are huge) and we made amazing sandwiches to eat on the journey to the ferry. It really is a pilgrimage as you smell the bread for a full street away. You can buy Poilane all over the world as they fly it out (supposedly Spielberg gets it delivered) and it keeps well, but to have a still warm bread in your hands is a truly visceral experience.

The markets are easily the best place to shop for most things. For really inexpensive and a different experience go to the Belleville market and eat afterwards in one of the very cheap ethnic restaurants. I think Belville is on a Tuesday and Friday.

If you want to see real parisians shop for their dinner visit Place Aligre market in the 12th on a Sunday (also Thursday but much quieter) Metro: Ledru-Rollin. The streets are literally jammed with hungry parisians buying lingredients for unch while all the streets around are a ghost town. There is also a small flea market that runs alongside if you need some junk to bring home. The covered market area at the centre of the market is the best quality for chickens, rabbits, foie, brains etc. have a snack in the Baron Rouge afterwards which is the oldest wine bar in paris (or one of them).

You will likely be visiting classic bistros so I would recommend Bofinger at Bastille as the room is lovely but stick with the classic fare such as steak frites or (my personal favourite) their breaded pied de cochon which is sublime and a snip at about 13-14 euro. They can be a bit snotty in there and may try to talk you out of it as only French people would eat pigs foot (forgetting the most famous song about this dish by Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday etc. "Gimmie a Pigs foot and a bottle of beer")- but persist and drop the bones noisily on the plate as you suck them dry. You could go for lunch on a thursday or sunday after a visit to the Richard Lenoir market. by the way I am not being macho about the pigs foot - I really do think theirs is one of the finest tasting things you will ever put in your mouth.

There is a truly sublime and very inexpensive vietnamese/laotian restaurant in the 13th which a Laotian friend brought me to but the name escapes me. I will post it when I get home in a week´s time... Pho can be wonderful or a bit underwhelming so be careful about picking vietnamese restaurants at random and try to stick with recommended ones. having said that it is very rarely inedible and is a great pick me up - the really cheap ones will have lots of tripe in them so they are not for the squeamish.

hope that helps...

Edited August 26, 2006 by ljr (log)

[Carlsbad]

Near the Louvre, A Casaluna, 6 rue de Beaujolais (the small street that borders the Palais Royal) has very good Corsican food at very gentle prices, and is a good lunch spot. Just around the corner, Aux Trois Oliviers, 37 bis rue Montpensier, has good provencal good and a very fun atmosphere.

Elsewhere, wine bars you might look at are Sancerre, 22 Ave. Rapp in the 7th; Bar du Caveau 17 Place Dauphine in 1st (sit outside on the square) and its neighbor, Taverne Henri IV, 3 Place du Pont-Neuf; Les Pipos, 2 Rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique in the 5th; and Le Café du Passage, 12 rue du Charonne in the 11th.

[docsconz]

I would not necessarily get hung up about having to eat right around the Louvre. It is easy to cross the river too and at your price point there might be more and better options there on the Left Bank. I'll leave it to those with more current experience to suggest places.

[John Talbott]

I would not necessarily get hung up about having to eat right around the Louvre. It is easy to cross the river too and at your price point there might be more and better options there on the Left Bank. I'll leave it to those with more current experience to suggest places.

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I'd second Casaluna and add l'Ardoise + Point Bar as walkable/near the Louvre. But Doc is correct, don't let a metro stop or two bar you from a 5 minute detour to where you want.

[markemorse]

I plan on some days just roaming around, but I've been burned in the past with this kind of travel....where I miss seeing great sites and eat badly.

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My 2 eurocents: experience has shown me that, even on days when I just want to "roam around", I'm much more pleased with the end result when I'm roaming vaguely towards 2 or 3 "known" possible eating destinations. You'll still get the same "unplanned" effect I think, just without the part where you end up totally screwed for good food and have to eat a stale croissant or cold falafel because you are dying of hunger. And you don't have to eat at your possible targets anyway if you see something better.

good luck!

mark