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How to select high-quality dishes


Fat Guy

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Over the past 15 or so years, we've bought many dishes. Some of them are still with us 15 years later. They've shown themselves to be virtually indestructible: they don't chip when stacked and knocked, their surfaces aren't affected by the dishwasher, they can survive the occasional hard clank. Others have lasted only a little while: they've quickly chipped, deteriorated or otherwise lost their utility or beauty. There seems to be no association with price or vendor. I have a set of Williams-Sonoma plates that have been absolutely amazing survivors and look as new today as when they were purchased; and I have others from Williams-Sonoma that have not held up well at all. I have stuff from top brands that sucks, and stuff from no-name brands that has been great. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it. And I can't seem to tell by visual examination of the product how well it will hold up. Is there a way to tell? Are there particular signs to look for, positive or negative? What's the deal?

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Steve,

A good merchant should be able to identify their stronger dishes. I think that bone china is stronger than stoneware and stoneware is stronger than porcelain.

Bone china is also thinner than stoneware and porcelain. Bone china is not always more expensive.

Mikasa has a line called Maxima that had a ten year breakage warranty. Their Optima line is also very strong. Sadly, they are closing all of their really nice outlet stores.

Tim

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Good retailers and suppliers will be able to steer you to the better stuff and away from crapware. However it also depends on what you're looking for and what you feel you want.

I spend an inordinate amount of time looking for something white, thin and luminous, which turned out to be considerably harder than I thought.

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Tim has it right. I took four semesters of ceramics back when I was an art major (in a past life). Strength of the ceramic material is due to several factors including the clay body and heat of firing.

Earthenwares, like those beautifully glazed majolicas from Portugal, Italy, and Mexico are at the bottom of the list and are quite fragile. There's nothing like having your gorgeous new serving tray chip in your suitcase before you ever get it home. Stonewares hit in the middle and are quite hard, and porcelain, though it appears to be more fragile, is actually remarkably strong and durable.

A trick for figuring out what kind of clay body was used to make a dish is to give the edge a gentle flick with your fingernail and listen to the sound. Earthenwares "ping" differently from stronger materials. The sound will be sort of high and tinny. Stronger materials will make a more solid sound. Really.

-L

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I spend an inordinate amount of time looking for something white, thin and luminous, which turned out to be considerably harder than I thought.

Did you find what you wanted? If so, what was it? My wedding dishes are finally pooping out after 18 years of daily use, and I would love to replace them with something white, thin and luminous.

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Steven, are you talking about everyday utility-level dishes, or something nicer? For the everyday stuff, I have always had good luck going to a place like Fishs Eddy and buying lowbrow-restaurant-grade white dishes. They're not as pretty as something from Williams Sonoma, but they're indestructible and oven safe.

--

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Just buy your dishes at a restaurant supply place.  Most of them know their products and can give you good advice.

Spot on advice!

About 25 year ago I purchased Buffalo China from a restaurant supply in Chicago. 24 of each, plates, coffee cups and bowls. A few have chipped over the period, one or two have broken from horrendous abuse but the majority are still with us. The glaze is finally wearing off but I just go into the attic where there are few left unused and pick them out. Buffalo China is still made but sourced from Mexico.

For weekend dinner parties we use Bernardaud Lemoge. Bernardaud comes in many patterns, some very expensive such as Metropoles which we have a set of but the same china is available in thier 'Madison' pattern at less cost. So far we have not broken any.

Recently I have been accumulating a set of Raynaud 'Point' designed by Keller. These plates and serving vessels are somewhat unique and are a nice change from standard plates and bowls. The 12.5" plates and bowls allow one to be very creative in decorating and arrangement as there is a lot of area to work with. These also seem to be robust if a little large to wash and handle.

Other than a mechanical test using a swinging weight such as used in Metalurgy tests, I do not know of any way other than actual usage to determine how well a certain plate will hold up.-Dick

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Just buy your dishes at a restaurant supply place.  Most of them know their products and can give you good advice.

What Melkor said. I have oval 11" platters, white round 6" and 10" plates and white soup bowls - all purchased at a restaurant china factory store (a real outlet store - no one of the ubiquitous make believe outlet stores).

And I have only two types of glasses in the house - 16 oz Libby "pint glasses" (the heavy duty ones like those used to serve pints in many brewpubs) and 10 oz Arcoroc bar style rocks glasses.

I suppose some would take issue with the somewhat spartan aesthetic of my choices but my plates and glasses are far more likely to wear out from excessive scratches due to years of use before they ever break. And I've inadvertently dropped these things on my hardwood kitchen floors more than a few times - the Arcocroc rocks glasses are the only ones that break.

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