TN: French wines with food

[Florida Jim]

Sautéed mahi mahi on cous cous topped with a spring vegetable and black olive mélange:

2005 Tete, Juliénas Clos du Fief:

Medium weight, sinewy wine with crunchy blackberry fruit and lovely spice; similar flavors on the palate with a weightless delivery, good intensity, perfect balance and fine length. Charming wine that has enough grip to make me think a couple years in the cellar is a good idea. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; more than worth it.

Chosen because I have had red wine with fish before and thought this might work. It did. But probably better with the veggies than the fish. In any event, when one gets a bite of the entire dish, the wine is of lesser weight but the flavors are carved into those of the food and complimentary. A nice match – maybe not the very best but one I won’t hesitate to repeat.

First, smoked salmon spread and crackers; and then, a frittata with tomatoes, zucchini, cous cous, shallots, garlic, roasted red peppers, parmesan and basil, topped with fresh chopped cherry tomatoes:

2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot (Stéphan Tissot), Chardonnay:

Aside from Chablis, I can not think of another region (the Jura) that makes chardonnay more in tune with my tastes; this is aromatic, varietally correct, clean and vinous, with solid chardonnay flavors and - no oak, no vanilla, no overt sweetness and no soft or weighty texture – rather it is pure and natural with real depth of flavor, lovely balance, good acidity and excellent length. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; so worth it.

(For those familiar with other Jura wines, there was no oxidation in this one.)

Chosen because I think chardonnay often pairs well with egg dishes if the wine is unoaked or very lightly so; it worked well. A bit of the frittata and a sip of wine at the same time made it clear that the flavors not only melded together but balanced each other. Equally, the fish spread and the wine counter-balanced each other; one taking the foreground one moment and then vice versa. An excellent wine with a variety of foods – as is evident here.

Grilled chicken tenders, hummus, Tzatziki, sliced fresh tomatoes and grilled Naan:

2002 Ogier, Vin de Pays La Rosine:

A lightweight syrah with elegant textures and a clean finish yet its flavors are potent, it has some grip and is obviously Northern Rhône. While I enjoy this bottling, I think this vintage comes up slightly short of its usual Côte-Rôtie-like performance. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Robert Kacher and about $19; still a good value.

Chosen to match the earthy flavors of the hummus and the grilled items and it worked well. As is often the case, a Northern Rhône wine has some scents and flavors of meat and ashes; usually good with grilled fare - and it was in this case. Complimentary flavors and textures here and some enhancement of each by the other. A very good pairing.

Best, Jim