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TN: Good and bad


Florida Jim

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Turkey sandwiches and potato chips:

2005 San Quirico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano:

Structured, aromatic and lightweight, this wine does not suffer for intensity with white fruit, resin and mineral tones, good acidity and a distinct bitter note from mid-palate on which seems to notch-up the wine’s overall delivery. A good sipper, whether with food or not. 12.5% alcohol, made from organic grapes, imported by Locasio and about $10; I will buy it again.

Chosen on a whim. Good with the sandwich, superb with the chips. This needs a little more than just white meat, bread and tomatoes – it would be ideal with tapas or seafood and likely good with stronger dishes that require white wine. Whatever it is served with, the bitter note refreshes the palate after each sip; hence, a versatile food wine. (Aside: I have had other vintages of this wine from this producer and think this is much the better of them.)

Griilled chicken breasts, green beans, salad and crusty bread:

2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:

The most impressive wine I have had this year; beautiful, full gamay nose that is complex, enticing and penetrating; smooth in the mouth with ripe fruit, spice, perfect balance and finesse; very long finish. This wine is varietally correct, of its place and so harmonious as to give the impression of complete symmetry. It needs about an hour in the decanter. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; as good a wine as I have ever found at that price point.

I chose it because Beaujolais and chicken is a classic combo. A sip of this and a bite of the bird are about as close to heaven as a pairing can be, each showcasing the other.

Wonderful wine!

Assorted cheeses:

2002 Feudi de San Gregorio, Taurasi:

One of the most shockingly dreadful wines I have had in years; hideously over-oaked – to the point that the oak makes the wine smelled flawed and dries it out on the palate. DNPIM. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $19; avoid like the plague.

And,

2005 Edmunds St. John, Redneck 101 Eaglepoint Ranch:

Liquefied raspberry preserves on the nose; jammy on the palate with the flavor of the nose and very little else, noticeable sweetness and alcohol; medium finish. One dimensional, way too jammy for me and somewhat artificial tasting. Maybe this is one of those ’47 Cheval type wines that tastes port-like in its youth and needs 50 years to come ‘round but its not my style now and that is very unusual for this producer who makes some of the best wines in CA. 14.6% alcohol and about $25; not for me.

The ESJ was tolerable with the cheese but not something I’d want much of and I couldn’t bring myself to take another sip of the Taurasi.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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