Restaurants in Alsace and Lorraine

[milkman]

As I live in Lorraine near to the border with Alsace, I thought I'd start a new thread on some restaurants on the area which is not otherwise very well represented in this forum.

We are a small group of English retired professionals. We have been eating out together regularly at restaurants ranging from lorry driver halts to starred restaurants for several years. I'll share some of them with you as we visit the both old favourites and new finds in the future months. We usually dine out at lunchtime given the travelling distances (and the winter weather if going over the Vosges).

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Last week we were at a one of our reliable favourites, the Auberge Frankenbourg, 13, rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 67730, la Vancelle (Michelin one star/GM 15). The Frankenbourg isn't difficult to find as there are only two restaurants in la Vancelle, a small village in the Vosges mountains foothills and to the west of Selestat.

The restaurant is in a family run hotel and the greeting on entering the traditionally styled dining room is always warm - not that the presentation of the food is Alsace traditional. It is wise to book at lunchtime as the Frankenbourg as it has a lot of business trade on weekday (although they can usually accommodate a one or two couples who just turn up); the exception is Saturday lunchtime when they are often very quiet.

The menus are changed weekly/fortnightly and range from a simple basic 12€ set lunchtime menu for those in a hurry through to le Decouverte at 60€. We often choose the 28€ Tradition d'Alsace set menu or the Tentation (33€) which has two choices for each course and includes a glass of wine with starter and main course. There is a reasonable selection of French wines, including a good Alsace list with prices starting at about 22€/bottle; there is a limited selection of wines by the glass. Given the driving distance, we usually dine at lunchtime.

We've got to know the staff well over the years. Madam has provided useful information to friends who have collected fungi in autumn and wondered about their edibility.

Last week we all chose the set Gourmet 44€ and, as usual, had an enjoyable meal with some interesting taste surprises in friendly surroundings.

Amuse bouche - tomato soup jelly with herb cream + fois gras + guacamole + gamba

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starter - Fois de canard poché à la vanille et vin de Maury, confit de poire ivre de vin

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fish course - Tartare de thon à la coriandre, salade d’herbes et pousses en vinaigrette acidulée

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main course -Coeur de filet de boeuf, béarnaise, pommes pont neuf, pointes d’asperges au parmesan

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cheese course - Comté, confiture de tomate verte

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predessert - mousse de fraises

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dessert - Pana cotta à la rhubarbe, madeleine tiède

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or raspberry and pistachio mille feuille and pistachio ice cream (for someone who doesn't like rhubarb!)

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apres-dessert

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and chocolate with coffee!

[John Talbott]

I know you know, but for those searching, we do have a compendium on the Alsace area.

[John Whiting]

For fifteen years or so we've been making special journeys to Longuyon to eat at M. Tisserant's splendid Restaurant La Mas in his Hotel de Lorraine. He was serving inventive tasting menus on demand that changed daily back when they were usually just an excuse for bringing out the same old expensive ingredients served up in the same old ways.

Every couple of months or so he has week-end soirées with two nights of music and tasting menus, two nights hotel accommodation, and two breakfasts, all for an inclusive 208€ per person (single supplement 20€ per night).

Hotel de Lorraine, place de la Gare, 54260 Longuyon, Tel 03 82 26 50 07, email mas.lorraine@wanadoo.fr

[Felice]

As I live in Lorraine near to the border with Alsace, I thought I'd start a new thread on some restaurants on the area which is not otherwise very well represented in this forum.

We are a small group of English retired professionals. We have been eating out together regularly at restaurants ranging from lorry driver halts to starred restaurants for several years. I'll share some of them with you as we visit the both old favourites and new finds in the future months. We usually dine out at lunchtime given the travelling distances (and the winter weather if going over the Vosges).

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Last week we were at a one of our reliable favourites, the Auberge Frankenbourg, 13, rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 67730, la Vancelle (Michelin one star/GM 15).

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Merci beaucoup Milkman for starting this thread. L'Auberge Frankenbourg looks wonderful. I look forward to more.

[Laidback]

milkman,

Thanks for what I hope is only the beginning of a nice series with beautiful pictures of an area (Lorraine) which I have very little experience...yet.

[Carlsbad]

Great review. It's on my list for the future. Thanks.

[Felice]

It will now be a lot easier to visit Alsace from Paris because starting June 10 there will be a TGV train connecting Paris to Strasbourg in 2 hours and 20 minutes.

[milkman]

La Table du Gourmet, 5 rue de la 1 ere Armee, 68340 Riquewihr (Michelin 1 star; GaultMillau 16/20) is within an old house which has been decorated in a modern style. For anyone over about 5 foot 6 inches (170cm) in height the beams are something to remember (an English pub with similar low beams would undoubtedly have a notice saying duck or grouse!)

Again a lunchtime visit (the Friday before a public holiday weekend) and, as with our previous winter/spring lunchtime visits, less that half a dozen customers. Riquewihr is a town with many tourists (the car parks were full at lunchtime this day) and they must prefer eating in the evening!

I find myself at odds with my companions over the food this restaurant. No hors d'oeuvres with the aperitifs, no amuses bouches, etc.; most of the courses we have had have just required assembly with little or only simple cooking. My companions have always found the food to be enjoyable but I've found it is somewhat lacking in agreeable tasty surprises.

MENU " ALSACE " son Terroir renouvelé (39€)

Tartelette Flambée en Mise en Bouche

Dégustation de

- Bâton de Foie gras de Canard sur Asperge du Pauvre, Aigre-doux au Gewurztraminer

- Presskopf comme la Grand-Mère, Bouton de Fleur de Pissenlit

- Omble chevalier du Val d’Orbey, un peu Fumé, Feuilles et Fleurs, Crème Battue à la Livèche

Volaille fermière d’Alsace aux Feuilles Aromatiques, Bouillon Moussé au Gewurztraminer

Vacherin glacé au lait Citron et sorbet Fruits rouges Confits à l’eau de Vie

Menu of the Day (28€)

Vegetable tempura

Cod with vegetables in an oriental soup

Caramelised banana, chocolate in filo, cassis sorbet

[winemike]

Thanks for the update on "La Table du Gourmet".

Whatever the food is (the one time I have been a few years ago, it was alright...), the service was so BAD that I'll never go there again. I can't even start to describe it... we did not get insulted, which was about the only positive thing...

[sharonb]

- Bâton de Foie gras de Canard sur Asperge du Pauvre, Aigre-doux au Gewurztraminer

Just out of curiosity... what is the poor man's asparagus?

[milkman]

- Bâton de Foie gras de Canard sur Asperge du Pauvre, Aigre-doux au Gewurztraminer

Just out of curiosity... what is the poor man's asparagus?

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Poireau = Leek see http://wittylink.com/547504

[sharonb]

Thanks - sometimes I'm too literalist! I figured it was probably leeks but then thought "Salsify is more like asparagus in firmness and shape" etc...

How did the leek pair with the foie gras?

[kai-m]

Thank you for those very interesting and detailed picture reports!!

Iam surprised about your Table de Gourmet review, since I only read real positive things about it (I even thought about skipping JG Klein for it, once...obviously it was a wise decision not to do so...).

Looking forward to your coming reports!!

best

kai

[milkman]

The Auberge Blanche Neige 692 Les Eveaux, 68910 Labaroche (GaultMillau 15) is probably our favourite restaurant judging by the very regular visits we make and our continuing appreciation of the tastes we encounter! The head chef, Mike Germershausen, is one of the GaultMillau Jeune Talents for 2007. He likes to introduce Asian flavours into his cuisine and we certainly appreciate his light cooking style with often challenging flavours.

The Auberge Blanche Neige is not that easy to find and is well away from the Alsace tourist trail. We believe it is very much under-rated (not that we want it so well patronised we cannot get a table whenever we want one!!). The Auberge is in Les Eveaux, a commune some way from the centre of the village of Labaroche but well signposted off the Labaroche-Les Trois Epis (D11) road. It is situated at over 700m so the terrace has good views of the Vosges and Alsace plain but winter snow can make access difficult.

The restaurant, which has only been open for a few years, is in an old colonie de vacances which has been restyled in a modern manner by the architects who have also worked for Auberge de l'Ill and Paul Bocuse à Collonges. The whole team is young, enthusiastic, and welcoming.

Aperitifs (beetroot and tomato-olive butters)

Menu Découverte (39€)

Amuse bouche: watermelon soup and crevette

Le Cappuccino de Crustacés, Cannellonis de Langoustines et Viande de Grison or

L’œuf Poché à la Mayonnaise de Truffe Noir et ses Asperges Poêlées

Le Filet de Truite du Val d’Orbey, Ragoût de Fenouil à la Crème et ses Pralins croustillants de Riz

predessert: peach couli and tonka bean cream

La Soupe de Rhubarbe à la Vanille, Chips de Poivre Vert et Parfait glacé Yaourt Cardamome

coffee with petits fours of apple tarts, chocolate ice creams, and pear eau de vie truffles

Edited June 4, 2007 by milkman (log)

[TarteTatin]

Wow. Gorgeous.

[grace3]

The Auberge Blanche Neige 692 Les Eveaux, 68910 Labaroche (GaultMillau 15) is probably our favourite restaurant judging by the very regular visits we make and our continuing appreciation of the tastes we encounter! The head chef, Mike Germershausen, is one of the GaultMillau Jeune Talents for 2007. He likes to introduce Asian flavours into his cuisine and we certainly appreciate his light cooking style with often challenging flavours.

The Auberge Blanche Neige is not that easy to find and is well away from the Alsace tourist trail. We believe it is very much under-rated (not that we want it so well patronised we cannot get a table whenever we want one!!). The Auberge is in Les Eveaux, a commune some way from the centre of the village of Labaroche but well signposted off the Labaroche-Les Trois Epis (D11) road. It is situated at over 700m so the terrace has good views of the Vosges and Alsace plain but winter snow can make access difficult.

The restaurant, which has only been open for a few years, is in an old colonie de vacances which has been restyled in a modern manner by the architects who have also worked for Auberge de l'Ill and Paul Bocuse à Collonges. The whole team is young, enthusiastic, and welcoming.

I forwarded your post to some French friends who have a lovely place NE of Paris.They also have some beautiful rentals in Riquewhir. I thought I was sending something new to them. I received a message that they had not been to the restaurant, but did know of it. They love the area and are actually looking for a mountain chalet for themselves in the area! I am sure I will hear more.....

[cigalechanta]

Th food looks more like still lifes, rather than tasty dishes. I guess I'm the only one who appricites the old time ambiance of Auberge DE 'ILL

Edited June 6, 2007 by cigalechanta (log)

[milkman]

Our recent visit to Au Vieux Couvent, 6, rue des Chanoines, 67860 Rhinau (Michelin one star, GM 15) made us all wonder whether we were wrong about the food, whether we just went on an off day (father Jean Albrecht was chef for lunch rather than the son Alexis), or whether the guide evaluations are just inconsistent? Not that there was anything particularly wrong with the food as such. However, taste-wise we all thought it was just bland and uninteresting and the presentation unexciting. Perhaps what we were served might once have been considered enough for the ratings but, given the number of other restaurants offering much tastier, better presented menus for a similar cost, we found this restaurant very disappointing and one we are unlikely to revisit.

Menu Gourmand (35€)

Amuse buche

Hemerocallis lily stuffed with hummous and sesame seeds and with asparagus jelly in a parmesan sauce (the parmesan was the over-riding flavour and not even a hint of asparagus)

Starters

-Carpaccio de boeuf, sauce au safran, schum de citron (was there any saffron in the sauce?)

-Le Ravioli de pomme de terre au pesto et voile de pancetta

-Fine tranches de veau au thon, valses d'herbes et fleurs sauvages (the sauce drowned the flowers)

Main course

-la lasagne comme la fait la Nonna comme à Novara (no better than can be bought frozen)

-Risotto <<Violane Nano>> primavera (too much cheese)

-filet de cannette en croûte de jambon de San Daniel, polenta moelleuse à la mascarpone, tomates cerises sautées aux amandes (safe and unremarkable flavours)

Le dessert du jour

Italian grape sorbet in hazelnut biscuits with vanilla ice cream and with fresh fruits

[milkman]

Epinal is now connected to Paris by a TGV so the train service is now somewhat quicker.

Les Ducs de Lorraine 5, rue de Provence, 88000 Épinal (one Michelin star, 16/20 in GaultMillau) has not been on our list of places to visit; for a long time the web site was inaccessible and, when we've passed by, the menu outside was in a rather sad uninviting state.

But, when we did visit, it turned out to be a pleasure to park on the tree-lined river bank and walk through the ornamental railings towards an elegant mansion from the belle époque. We swept up the stone staircase and into a dark panelled hallway, off which opened a large airy room, with lemon coloured walls, long windows and dripping chandeliers. Its tables were crisp with linen cloths and bristling with cutlery and glasses. A traditional French restaurant, complete with waiters in waistcoats and striped trousers. Badly done, these stage-effects can be off-putting and snobbish, but there was a comfortable, relaxed atmosphere. It was a warm day and our fellow diners were already ensconced outside under the awning of the more informal terrace.

We chose the 32€ menu which has four choices for each of the starter and main courses and a dessert trolley.

Amuse bouche - cream cheese mousse with a tomato and basil couli (our only regret was some other diners were given a flaming brulée which we did not get an opportunity to sample)

First course

Snail ravioli in a garlic and cream sauce or

Homard rillette on potato wrapped in smoked salmon

Main course

Gallette of lamb on a bed of ratatouille or

Brochette of lapereau or

whole calf kidney (!)

Desserts from the trolley - choice was not a problem as one could mix and match discreetly, a few cherries, melon, peaches, strawberries, white chocolate and nut gateau, peach tart, rhubarb tart, cheese cakes, crème anglais ... and then, unbeknown to us, some, like the skewers of fresh fruits and the tarte tatin, were whisked away to be grilled or reheated and garnished with fresh fruit and sorbet

... so after cold and then hot desserts we lingered over a leisurely coffee!

A very enjoyable and tasty meal - and we will certainly be returning in the near future.

[milkman]

Anyone visiting in Strasbourg and wanting a pleasantly tasty, quick, lunch should try Porcus Dei, 6, place du Temple Neuf 67000 Strasbourg which is near to the main shopping area.

The main restaurant is on the first floor above the Porcus charcuterie but, in summer, there are also tables in a quietish pedestrianised square behind the shop. The main restaurant room is light and airy and at each end are attractive large marqueteries of Alsace scenes by Spindler (there are small photos on the Porcus web site http://tinyurl.com/27lt8u ).

The dishes are typical of Alsace although served in smaller (more manageable!) portions. There is a large choice including a limited number of non-pork dishes. The set menu costs 16.50€ for two courses and 18.50€ for three courses including beer/water/glass of wine.

The photograph shows two starters, a plate of charcuterie and a bibeleskäs with smoked ham (a type of quark/curd cheese) and two main courses. This was followed by a delicious bilberry and fromage blanc tart.

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For an even lighter lunch or just a snack while shopping, L'Epicerie 6, rue du Vieux Seigle 67000 Strasbourg offers a large selection of tartines (slices of bread with hot of cold spreads) and salads at very reasonable prices. It is situated on a narrow pedestrianised street and has tables outside. L'Epicerie is has a distinctive atmosphere, styled very much as an old-fashioned grocery store/bar with dim lighting.

Sharing tartines:

[milkman]

The Maximilien restaurant, 19a route d'Ostheim, 68340 ZELLENBERG (one Michelin star GM 15).

The dining room is pleasantly airy and elegant with a good view out over the vineyards towards Riquewihr

We chose the 31 euro Menu d'Affaire which is their "menu on the board"

-mini tarte flambé

-salmon sushi and celeriac foam over crab over a tomato concassé and paprika at the base

-Lightly smoked tartare of trout in a courgette ring and frogs legs in garlic cream

-sandre on a bed of girolles (I thought the sandre was rather overcooked but the combination worked)

-red fruits and pain epice in bruleed cream with spice ice cream

coffee and petit fours (disappointing; only the mango cream had any real taste)

We had a bottle of Gentil du Brandbuckel 2005, D&C Frey, Dambach, an interesting appellation which we have never tried before. Having enjoyed it we went to the producers to buy a few more. It is a bio wine containing 50 % Pinot Blanc, 25% Gewürztraminer, 25 % Tokay-Pinot-Gris which are all grown on the same plot.

Overall we were slightly disappointed but will try the restaurant again sometime in the future.

Edited November 9, 2007 by milkman (log)

[John DePaula]

Does anyone know if Chan Chira, a Thai restaurant in Strasbourg, still exists? I ate there in December of 2003. It was absolutely fantastic. After several months in France, I was really craving spicy food and it was a wonderful surprise.

[cigalechanta]

Your photos are very nice but disapponted to see the dishes with foam. It's getting out of hand. I'll stick to the Auberge I'll

[milkman]

Does anyone know if Chan Chira, a Thai restaurant in Strasbourg, still exists?  I ate there in December of 2003.  It was absolutely fantastic.  After several months in France, I was really craving spicy food and it was a wonderful surprise.

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I Googled and found some photos and comments for a visit dated 29 October 2007 http://wittylink.com/7120583

[Dave Hatfield]

Have added this thread to the interactive map of restaurants in France OUTSIDE of Paris.

Always on the lookout for more reviews.

Where did you last eat in France (outside Paris) that you liked? Hated? would/ would not recommend?