Barcelona Restaurant Recommendations

[The Viking]

Thanks for all the replies!

A small update as I´m in BCN at the moment:

Went to Gamvik in Balmes 165 yesterday, and was impressed, but then my opinion could be biased since I´ve known Robert for a few years, and we´ve encountered eachother on his trip to northern Norway.

But: A modest local with small paintings on the walls giving impressions of the scenery around Gamvik.

Wine list: Top notch, very broad, good and sensible selection with moderate markups.

Menu: Some dishes do show his history at Isidre and Colibri, like the espalsa del cabrito, but apart from that very good when it comes to shellfish, had some lovely navajas with ceps done just right and meltingly tender in the mouth with a very intense flavour.

I also had a carpaccio of a local mushroom called "Amandis de Sarria"???, (Help me out anyone??), extremely fine nuances which were lightly enhanced by a lemony vinaigrette .

The cabrito was top notch, as the chocolate souffle and also a rather funny pre-dessert: Looks like a boiled egg with the top off, yolk and all, but when spooning it up the white is a lovely vanilla semi-pudding, the "yolk" a tangy citrus, and hidden in the bottom a small rich chocolate surprise...

Meursault-00 from Leroy and Pesus from Bodegas Vina Sastre-01 did the trick as supplements.

IMHO (even without the bias) it is definetely a place to seek out for straight forward cuisine without too much manipulation with clean flavours..

Plans have changed though, was able to snag a table at San Pau tomorrow for lunch (Yes!), and going back to Cinc Sentits today for lunch.

Despite the warnings I´m sticking with Cal Pep tonight, and´ll let you know..

Any good suggestions for a sunday night dinner??

[pedro]

They all sound great, I think Cinc Sentits is a definate as I have my three kids also, (ages 9,12,16). Can Roca maybe...(by ourselves). Hispania sounded great but it may be cost prohibitive with so many of us. Any suggestions on good local cuisine, that a family in Barcelona may go to?

Thank you all so much for all the advice so far. We will be there, the 13th-thru the 17th of October, should I make reservatons yet or wait?

Thanks again!

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Just for the record, I don't think Hispania is more expensive than Cinc Sentits if you behave with the wine.

Regarding reservations, Can Roca is getting difficult in the weekends.

. . . . .

Raisab,

For family dining featuring good local cuisine, you should read the "" thread. 

ChowAlf

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This is the thread ChowAlf is referring to: Barcelona Good Value Eating

[Silly Disciple]

What are the must see sites in Girona?

I've mostly visited the old quarter and the old city walls, which might be enough to cover your morning, assuming you go for lunch at Can Roca.

I suggest you take a look at the city council's website, they have plenty of tourist information available in several languages.

What are possible options in place of Abac (ie great food, similiar or less price range, within barcelona)?

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I guess I would try Hisop, Alkimia or Comerç 24, in that order (at this point I think it is pretty clear I greatly prefer the former over the latter).

Edited September 10, 2005 by Silly Disciple (log)

[docsconz]

That would be sad indeed if Abac has slipped. That last year has so far produced the best meal I have ever had in Barcelona and I have eaten well there. I was under the impression at least here on eGullet, that if anyplace has slippe it was Alkimia and not Abac. I had an excellent meal there two years ago, but can't personally offer anything more recent than that .

I will have to seek out the chocolates of Enric Rovira next time I am in Barcelona.

If one were able to get a lunch reservation and go to Can Roca, that would probably be the better thing to do. I do, however, love Montserrat. It is such a beautiful spot and so representaative of Catalunya, that I have a hard time arguing against it. Of course, being that we are all food obsessed that would be the downside as I don't believe there is anything special to eat right there. A fun alternative might be to take a picnic lunch there. Either way one can't go wrong.

[Bux]

. . . .

Isidre

. . . .

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How could I forget Ca L'Isidre. It's been so long since I've been there, but it's a wonderful restaurant for less cutting edge, but up to date, versions of more traditional Catalan cooking. It should be on any short list of places for the first time diner in Barcelona.

In terms of a day trip, I don't know the train schedules from Barcelona to Girona and back, but remember that you will also need to take a short taxi ride to Can Roca. I don't know how much time that will leave for sightseeing, but I think the food alone is worth the journey and Girona itself can easily support a full day's sightseeing. There are a few museums in the old quarters and at least a couple of churches worth seeing, but even just a few hours exploring the streets and walls would be rewarding.

In terms of transportation to and from Barcelona, Sant Pau up the coast is a short walk from the electric commuter line and just about the easiest restaurant to reach by public transportation.

I don't know where the nearest station is to Hispania, but I suspect you will also need a taxi. I wish I could remember the prices, we had a large and very good lunch there. It struck me as a very family type place. I don't recall it being expensive. Judging by looks and sophistication of decor, one would expect Cinc Sentits to be rather expensive. Looks are deceiving.

[Bux]

A couple of other recommendations in the area around Cinc Sentits come to mind. Taktika Berri for tapas. It's been mentioned before and it's first class. It pretty much had a local clientele that was casually, but well dressed more than working class, but had a very welcoming vibe, possibly because it didn't seem over run by tourists. The hot tapas were fresh and hot, coming from the kitchen in small batches as opposed to sitting around for a while. The cold tapas also seemed fresh and tasty.

L'Olivé, a restaurant I would describe as flying under the radar of destination restaurants, but it's also a restaurant to which I've returned for a second visit and one that pleased me both times. Prices are reasonable and the food has been very good across the board. The wine list is well stocked at the low end and the bilingual menu is rather vast, but almost all of it is traditional Catalan food. Bilingual in Barcelona means Catalan and Castilian, although tourists seem to fine their way here. The last time we were there, there was a family of five from South America next to us; a table with two couples, one of them local, the other anglophone and with a baby; and less fortunately, a loud table of five or six Americans who seemed to have met each other on a cruise. I've described at least one of my meals in a past post and there's no point in trying again as the meal is less fresh in my mind.

By the way, in regard to cruise ships, Barcelona has an incredible concentration of tourists and rivals Paris in that regard, plus it's a Mediterranean cruise ship port. My apologies to those who enjoy cruises, but when a ship unloads so many tourists at once--and for the most part, they are those who touch base one night in a country--it has a noticeable effect on the culture of the city. L'Olivé is not a prime tourist destination as far as I know. Cinc Sentits has been even less affected, possibly because it's new. So far notices have only appeared in places likely to be read by gastronomes. I think Jordi would like to keep it that way--a clientele of locals and knowledgeable food driven visitors--but I suspect Cinc Sentits will soon be appearing in all the popular guide books. That's just another reason to try it soon.

[The Viking]

Well guys, I'm (unfortunately(!)) back, having landed in chilly Oslo late last night, and here are some of my impressions from the last two days with more to follow later...

After a small indulgence of Eggs Benedictine with fresh truffles for breakfast at Arts (does magic for your coronary arteries) lunch was of course on saturday at Cinc Sentits, opted for the small Omikase with wine pairings by the half-glass. Not dissapointed at least, in my opinion the only flaw was that I prefer my cochinillo slightly less deconstructed with the crispy crust intact (Done nicely at Moo), but please Jordi: NEVER take the foie gras off the menu! It's THE most perfectly cooked in my whole life, time and time again. The freshness of each dish and contrasting elements between its components is also ever so satisfying. The small cheese selection with accompagnying contrasting flavours of tomato marmalade, hazelnut brioche and slowly cooked dates was also ever so satisfying..

The service and individual attention from the multi-lingual staff rendering an atmosphere of being part of the family is actually quite unique.

The same night Cal Pep for dinner (seated in the back as usual) was actually fairly good. Then again, to me one has to take and accept this restaurant for what it is, with its boisterous atmosphere, slightly off-hand service, but actually waiters that are genuinely interested in your well being, particularly if you in Spanish show a knowledge of their specialities and the local wines..

The only let down was the navajas, rather overdone... But the almejas left my friend with glazed eyes and a question about doggiebagging a liter of its sauce, with the laconious reply: "Sure, but we'll have to cook 6kg of clams first..."

The bellota seemed rather haphazardly cut and not from a great piece, they were unfortunately out of espardenyes. But alas: The tuna tartare, deep fried artichokes, pa' amb tomaquet etc. made up for it.. Remelluri Bianco and Clos Mogador 2002 were a nice accompagnement..

Later:

San Pau, wow!

Shanghai almost revisited...

Gamvik: Defientely revisited..

[Christopher Haatuft]

I wish I was back in Barcelona...ohh, and not on an apprentice's budget..hehe

Paris next

[The Viking]

As a sidethought regarding some previous suggestions: Rumors have it that Hisop might be closing due to lack of turnover, anyone in the know?

[Silly Disciple]

As a sidethought regarding some previous suggestions: Rumors have it that Hisop might be closing due to lack of turnover, anyone in the know?

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I heard this rumor too, but then my brother ran into the maitre who said it was false... who to believe? I can't say.

[ulterior epicure]

I know a few strings have been posted in the recent few weeks (and months). However, I'd like to echo Viking's latest request - I am going to Barcelona this weekend (30 September - 04 October). Unfortunately, I have limited time and means of travel (other than by foot or train - ie. sans car). I arrive Friday late afternoon and depart mid-day Tuesday.

Here are my reservations thus far:

Friday dinner: Ca l'Isidre.

Saturday lunch: Gaig

Saturday dinner: ? Have reservations at Espai Sucre - at 8:30 though...

I also have reservations on Saturday at Comerc 24... Gaig or Comerc?

Sunday: Everyone seems to be closed - even the Mercat Boqueria!.... except Sant Pau (no more space). I have reservations for lunch at Can Fabes - BUT - it's awfully expensive and it's been given lackluster reviews on eGullet and elsewhere... too bad Can Roca is booked the entire weekend. I also have reservations at L'Esguard... So - I guess the question is - Can Fabes or L'Esguard?

Monday dinner: Abac.

I tried to get in at Alkimia - but it's booked on Friday and Saturday as well. I guess I'm getting a good smattering - but I just thought I'd send this out for suggestions... comments?

Anyone got recommendations for good tapas? Also, I crave (when I dine out at multi-course restaurants that don't generally serve vegetables in my preferred (mass) quantity) huge fresh salads - anyone got suggestions for a good salad buffet?

Thanks! New eGullet Member and first-time poster,

Ulterior Epicure.

[lizard]

I know a few strings have been posted in the recent few weeks (and months).  However, I'd like to echo Viking's latest request - I am going to Barcelona this weekend (30 September - 04 October).  Unfortunately, I have limited time and means of travel (other than by foot or train - ie. sans car).  I arrive Friday late afternoon and depart mid-day Tuesday.

...

I tried to get in at Alkimia - but it's booked on Friday and Saturday as well.  I guess I'm getting a good smattering - but I just thought I'd send this out for suggestions... comments? 

Anyone got recommendations for good tapas?  Also, I crave (when I dine out at multi-course restaurants that don't generally serve vegetables in my preferred (mass) quantity) huge fresh salads - anyone got suggestions for a good salad buffet?

Thanks!  New eGullet Member and first-time poster,

Ulterior Epicure.

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We just returned last weekend, and I would suggest Cinc Sentits.

They are open for lunch, as well as dinner, and you can request reservations by email. The restaurant is just one block off the Passeig de Gracia in the Eixample.

As for your salad quest, try the organic restaurant at the back of La Boqueria market. They seemed to have quite a variety of beautiful salads & sandwiches. Both these spots are easily accessible by metro or Taxi.

Have fun!!!

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks Lizard.

My problem is that nothing's open on Sunday - was Cinq Sentits? I should check out their website - I had looked over it once but didn't notice the times.

Re: Organic - I've heard it's great. I'll have to visit? No?

[Silly Disciple]

As for your salad quest, try the organic restaurant at the back of La Boqueria market.  They seemed to have quite a variety of beautiful salads & sandwiches.  Both these spots are easily accessible by metro or Taxi.

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I've recently heard from a good source that these people are getting into trouble because many of the things they sell and claim to be organic are not so. Unfortunately I can't think right now of a place which distinguishes itself for great salads.

Between Can Fabes and L'Esguard I would choose Can Fabes, I think it has a higher probability of being a more memorable meal than L'Esguard. I've been recently hearing several "offline" comments that speak very good of the current state of affairs at Santi Santamaria's restaurant.

Gaig or Comerç... depends on whether you want more classic (Gaig) or more modern (Comerç).

[lizard]

Thanks Lizard.

My problem is that nothing's open on Sunday - was Cinq Sentits?  I should check out their website - I had looked over it once but didn't notice the times. 

Re: Organic - I've heard it's great.  I'll have to visit?  No?

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Oh, sorry.

My reading comprehension powers are shot. They are indeed closed on Sunday.

Re: Santi Santamaria, we had a transcendent meal at Santceloni in Madrid on this trip. While I know his role there is minimal, the food was incredible. The cheese table alone was worth the trip. I highly recommend it if you find yourself in Madrid.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks Silly and Lizard!

Yes, I just can't decide between Can Fabes and L'Esguard... I know there's a two-star difference - but there's also more than 100 euro difference as well!

As for Gaig and Comerc - I think Im going withi Gaig because I want more traditional - I think I'll be getting a heady dose of modern with Abac on Monday night... as well, I think either L'Esguard or Can Fabes will be more modern? Anyone out there who cares to add to this or comment?

U.E.

[Rogelio]

For Sunday, Paco Meralgo on C/ Muntaner 171. Is a great tapas place which is always open.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks for the suggestion, although I think I've pretty much decided to go outside of Barcelona for Sunday. If I am going to visit Can Fabes or L'Esguard, which city (Girona or San Celoni) could I better make a "day trip" out of?

Anyone?

U.E.

[Rogelio]

Girona is a beatuful city with an impresive historical centre and San Celony is an industrial village with no tourist interest (but Can Fabes). You choose .

[ulterior epicure]

Well, if you put it that way...

[Silly Disciple]

L'Esguard is located in a small town called Sant Andreu de Llavaneres, as far as I know, and not Girona.

[ulterior epicure]

Silly.

Thanks for your advice - and yes, you're right, L'Esguard is kinda tucked away - which could be a fantastic, intimate sort of adventure... gosh, I'm really agonizing over whether to fulfill my reservation at Can Fabes or at L'Esguard... too bad I don't have time for both.

The menus are about comparably priced... who, in your opinion, will I see more creative things from? I see from the L'Esguard website that their menu looks pretty good (80Eu for the mid-menu and double for the "gold"). Can Fabes, on the other hand, has refused to update its online menu since 2003!! I can't believe that - I would expect more from a three star establishment.

Well, I leave in the morning (I'm in Europe) for Barcelona - any last minute weigh-ins to break the tie would be greatly appreciated!

Ciao.

U.E.

[Silly Disciple]

If I were in your situation, and I could afford Can Fabes (which I think is going to be considerably more expensive than L'Esguard) I would definitely go for it. Then again, I admire Chef Santamaria's philosophy. I see him as a huge figure in modern culinary culture in Spain, while Sanchez Romera's major achievement so far has been the introduction of a gelificant called Micri. There's no comparison, they are not playing the same game. Now if you were comparing Can Fabes with Can Roca, that would be a different thing altogether. But IMHO if you're looking for memorable and willing to pay for it, go for Can Fabes.

[Bux]

I'd be loathe to argue with Silly, for a number of reasons, although on a budget, I won't overlook l'Esguard as a rewarding experience. I'm glad the the location of l'Esguard has been settled. It's not a restaurant that's easy to find even once you're in the town. We had a lovely meal there some years ago, but we were dumbstruck over the fuss about micri. We had a few sauces that seemed to be suspensions of things lilke truffle or red pepper in a tasteless gel that served mostly to reduce the intensity and we longed for old fashioned haute cuisine sauces or just some jus de viande. Can Fabes may have been even earlier in our visits to Spain and thus perhaps not a reliable picture of what they're serving today, but it was a blockbuster meal.

You'll also find some places open for lunch on Sunday, but closed for dinner. I think that applies to Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mer. I mention it here because it's an excellent restaurant and because it's within sight and walking distance of the electric commuter rail line and thus one of the easiest places to get to by public transportation from downtown Barcelona. It is also, as I recall, expensive.

One of our fall back restaurants in Barcelona is l'Olivé. I believe it's open on Sundays, though again only for lunch--note that Sunday lunch is a big meal in Spain. It offers good reliable modern Catalan food in a nice upscale environment. Its price point is excellent and its wine list is well stocked with inexpensive wines. If it were to exist around the corner from us here in NY, I'd be a regular patron. It is not in a class with most of the other restaurants we're talking about, but it shoudln't disappoint anyone.

[ulterior epicure]

Silly and Bux (and all contributing members).

I thank you so very much for your input and insight. I'm sure I will have a memorable experience being in Barcelona itself and environs that the food could only be an added plus!

I will definitely give a report when I return. But, for now, this is what I have planned (where I have reservations):

Friday dinner (tonight): Ca L'Isidre

Saturday lunch: Gaig (couldn't get in any other night).

Saturday dinner:? (something simpler/lighter) and Espai Sucre

Sunday lunch: Either C. Fabes or L'Esguard

Sunday dinner?: (something simple/light, or not at all depending on lunch).

Monday lunch:? Probably graze through La Boqueria?

Monday dinner: Abac.

Thanks all - hopefully, someone will cancel at El Bulli on a whim for Sunday (the last night of this year's El Bulli season) night and I'll be able to squeeze in - if so, I'll let y'all know!

Ciao.

U.E.