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JoNorvelleWalker

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Everything posted by JoNorvelleWalker

  1. And it would depend what shape the quarters were -- long and thin as most brands in the US, or short and squat as some. Nigel Slater loves poetic measurments. I actually weighed out 700g of onions, rather than the three medium onions called for. Soup is simmering.
  2. As accurately as I can measure on my ancient analog Japanese made scale, 40g of butter is exactly 3 tablespoons. I'll go with that and see what happens! Thanks!
  3. Not quite the same recipe (this one uses a liter of chicken stock) but close enough, thanks! I have five pounds of onions, I may yet eat tonight. If I have enough butter.
  4. When a recipe calls for "a good thick slice" of butter as its first ingredient -- as one by Nigel Slater does for onion soup (Tender, p325) -- what is the equivalent in grams or tablespoons? "A good pinch" or "large handful" I can handle, but I am completely lost. P.S. This not just of academic interest. I had hoped to have the soup tonight.
  5. Well, I respun the mix the third time. What a disappointment. I dug out the xanthan gum. I mixed a tablespoon or two of sugar with a quarter teaspoon of zanthan gum, and then whisked in some cream. Don't ask, I didn't measure. I then added the melted mix and hit it with the immersion blender. It was the best mix I had ever tasted. I could have eaten it all night. But it did not make good ice cream. It was not sweet enough! Which for me is saying something. Plus it is icy. Not as icy as the last iteration, but it doesn't have the clear vanilla flavor either. I think xanthan gum is an evil ingredient in ice cream. A Band Aid as it were. The first iteration would have been about perfect, had I not stupidly used so much sugar. ------------ "Rein in the sugar. Sugar can overwhelm and disguise flavors -- and mistakes too. Overly sweet desserts are not desirable." "You will very likely make a fair amount of mistakes, but that is part of the process." -- Francisco Migoya
  6. Back in the last century I decided that if I was going to eat bread at home it was going to be my own bread. I have stuck to it. (And it has stuck to me.) If I could keep only one bread book, if I could keep only one cookbook, it would be Raymond Calvel's. Does anyone know if Professor Calvel is still alive?
  7. I stumbled upon this thread a couple of weeks ago. Two inch steaks are a bit beyond my means but I used this method to cook a lean Australian ribeye with very good results. Tonight I used the method to prepare a boneless pork chop that was delicious. Just the barest hint of pink with a lovely crust. I used rendered pork fat. Best pork chop, I believe, that I have ever cooked -- though that is not saying much. My pork chops are usually more like toasted wall board. While the chop was resting I sauteed brussels sprouts in the fat and garlic. Wine was a 2000 Muscadet Sevre & Maine Sur Lie that was a beautiful nutty brown and had no flavor. My stupidity. Seriously, though, thank you for the inspiration.
  8. I have a confession (not to be confused with "a confection") to make: in the munavalgekook recipe the dry ingredients are folded into the whipped egg whites and then the melted butter is folded into the resulting batter. This time I was rushing. After the egg whites were whipped in my ancient KitchenAid, I added and whipped the dry ingredients in three stages, then I whipped in the butter. Very easy. Thought I had found a shortcut. But no. Made properly and not over baked the munavalgekook should not be dry. It looked beautiful though. A bit off topic but I'd love to hear how others fold ingedients into egg whites. I used to use my hands but got tired of the mess. Last night's icy ice cream is melting down again.
  9. I made another batch of vanilla using Ruben's heating method. This time I used 750 ml heavy cream, 250 ml whole milk, 8 egg yolks, 160 g sugar. In other words a much higher percentage of sugar than before. The result was smooth, rich, scoopable -- and disgustingly sweet and sticky. The flavor was dull and I had a feeling that the total solids were too high. The ice cream melted too quickly. Not something I would have sent back in a restaurant perhaps, but not as good as I had hoped. I melted it down, added a lot of milk and a little cream to the melted mix, and tried again. Now the sweetness is just right, the vanilla flavor is clear and refreshing. But the texture is icy. And the mouthfeel is thin. Worse, the munavalgekook I made with all the egg whites turned out dry. I used Fiori di Scilia for citrus flavor but I think I like almond better. If only there were some way to melt down and respin a cake.
  10. Here is the blog and recipe that I started with: http://nami-nami.blo...ake-recipe.html As I recall the nami-nami author is a poster on eGullet. I've made this recipe a few times and I eventually bought a bundt pan to bake it in. Sometimes I use almond flour and sometimes I don't. I believe for the cake I was eating with my sorbet last night I used 60g almond flour and 100g King Arthur organic white flour. I'm pretty sure I once tried a bit of Fiori di Sicilia and orange flower water for citrus flavor. I got the idea to serve the munavalgekook with my chocolate sorbet because it was in the freezer too.
  11. Maybe not as a main course, but Francisco Migoya in Frozen Desserts (p 340-341) has a recipe for sake and lemon sorbet with wasabi flying fish roe. You could probably substitute your caviar in the recipe, though it wouldn't have the pretty light spring green color.
  12. Lesson in Freezing Point Depression: My chocolate sorbet came to a sad, inglorious end. I did defrost my freezer. Tonight is fairly cold, -4 deg C, so I dumped my sorbet and its freezer-mates outside. It completely melted. Dessert was a warmed slice of munavalgekook (made with almond flour), a drizzle of hazelnut syrup, covered in the quondam sorbet. A fine dessert, to be sure. But not a frozen dessert.
  13. The nearest town here is about 700 people, but there seems to be a Praxair about 15 miles away. I don't have a vehicle, which makes fetching dry ice impractical, although I see Praxair will deliver. In other news my cream supply has spoiled, and it seems to be a good time to defrost my freezer.
  14. Unfortunately neither an anti-griddle nor a block of dry ice are very practical for me: the anti-griddle for price, and the difficulty of dry ice. I've never seen dry ice for sale, and if I did I'd have no way to bring it home. But dry ice does remind me of the ices and frozen confections of my youth. In the summer at the shore the vendors would store their wares in chests of dry ice. The products were sold very cold. To this day I cannot enjoy a popsicle or similar served at normal freezer temperatures. It just does not seem right.
  15. You are most welcome, and thanks for the wonderful help you have given me. (Jo is short for Jo Norvelle, I am a girl.)
  16. If it helps, Migoya has the following recommended min/max percentages for sorbet: fruit puree (sweet) 40-60% fruit puree (acidic) 25-40% dry extracts 31-36% stabilizer 0-1% sugar 25-32% I am really enjoying Migoya's book and it is pretty, as well as informational. Unfortunately he has me wishing for an anti-griddle. I bought a SS hotel pan as the best thing I could think of for hardening my ice cream, and I see that is what Migoya uses in his pictures, In other news, even after several days, my chocolate sorbet has no iciness!
  17. I'm sorry you didn't ask the sorbet question yesterday! I just returned Ice Cream 6th edition, Marshall et al that I had on Interlibrary Loan. There was a chapter on sherbets/sorbets/ices with lots of formulation information. Today I got a copy of Migoya's Frozen Desserts. Haven't read it yet, but maybe there is something in there.
  18. I've never made chocolate ice cream that I can remember, but the sorbet has the consistency of ice cream, even though it contains no dairy. In my experience milk products tend to dull chocolate flavor (not that I don't love milk chocolate). But this sorbet gives a full bitter hit of intense chocolate along with the lovely mouthfeel of cocoa butter. Not to mention theobromine intoxication. (Says she, sitting here salivating uncontrollably and twitching to herself.)
  19. The sacrifices one must make for science! Here is my novel, possibly original contribution to the art of sorbet. The concept of chocolate sorbet had never occurred to me. However another recipe from Giorgio Locatelli's Made in Italy, one that I had filed away in my mind to one day make, was for mineral water chocolate foam. Now what, I wondered, would result if I froze mineral water chocolate foam? Fortunately I am in the US and sorbets are not a defined food in the United States. My chocolate sorbet can be whatever I want for it to be! Locatelli's recipe had almost no sugar, and I knew it would not freeze properly. I kept his proportion of mineral water to chocolate but added much more sugar, dash of Grand Marnier, vanilla paste, and a pinch of xanthan gum: Lindt Excellence 70% -- 100 g Lindt Excellence 99% -- 100 g Sugar -- 100 g San Pellegrino -- 250 ml Grand Mariner -- 25 ml Nielsen Massey Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste -- 5 ml Xanthan Gum -- very small pinch Melt chocolate over warm water. Mix sugar with xanthan gum, and dissolve in San Pellegrino. Bring to the boil. Remove from heat and slowly whisk in melted chocolate. Stir in Grand Mariner and vanilla paste. Pour hot mix into iSi, charge with nitrous oxide, and chill overnight. Discharge foam into prepared ice cream maker bowl and spin. Transfer to cold pan and harden in freezer. That's all there is to it. I have to say the foam was great by itself but even better frozen. It would be neat to fry it on an anti-griddle, not that that's something that I have. It might work to hard freeze the foam without spinning it. After hardening texture was just scoopable. Possibly more Grand Mariner would be warranted. I would not want to add more sugar. Gluten-free, probably vegan, what could be more healthful? I keep reminding myself that chocolate is a fruit.
  20. I have not made a souffle in many years, however I used to get good results from the souffle recipes in Joy of Cooking.
  21. I'm repeating myself from another thread, but lamb tagine with dates, chicken with apricots and pine nuts (which I had again tonight), pil-pil, chicken mechoui. My chicken with preserved lemons and olives was fairly close to her recipe. (I would not have used a liver if I'd had it!)
  22. Don't know if this will help or not: years ago, before anyone around here had heard of Lyme disease, my sons and I had gone raspberry picking. I smushed and scraped the fruit through the aforementioned tamis, and put the puree in the refrigerator. I don't remember what my plans were, but my younger son had the idea to spin it. (We had a good Simac at the time.) The result was rather tart, but one of the more delightfully refreshing things I have eaten. I don't think there was any added sugar.
  23. Your question made me wonder so I consulted McGee, On Food and Cooking: "During this wet processing, the starch granules absorb odors and develop their own when their traces of lipids are oxidized, so cornstarch has a distintive flavor unlike that of wheat flour, which is milled dry." (p. 614)
  24. My freezer temperature, when I checked a moment ago, is -21.1 deg C. I wish I had one that would go to -30! But it could be worse. I don't know if that difference would account for why my attempt at Jeni's recipe was icy. I may have done something wrong, but considering none of the other batches I've made in the ICE-100 have been unacceptably icy, I tend to blame the recipe. Jeni's recipe has less butterfat than the other batches. By "scoopable" I mean I can take the ice cream container from the freezer and easily serve a portion. The ice cream is neither too hard nor too soft. In this respect Jeni's recipe was just perfect, similar to the alcohol containing recipes. For other batches I've made, such as the licorice, I have had to warm a serving spade and lean on it with all my weight. In other words, brick hard. Fortunately my weight seems to be increasing. Darienne, I don't think I said "I don't like the taste of cornstarch in my ice cream," even though I believe I could taste it. The cornstarch flavor did not bother me as much as the alcohol taste in the alcohol based batches that I made. But I would prefer that there not be unintended incidental flavors in my ice cream. Xanthan gum (or maybe one of the other similar gums) should work as a stabilizer in place of cornstarch and not add any taste. I say should, because, except for this last batch of ice cream that I made, my attempts at using xanthan gum have given strange results, such as a salad dressing you could turn upside down and not spill.
  25. Respin: I wasn't happy with the batch I made from Jeni's recipe. For me iciness in ice cream is a fatal flaw. I melted it down and used my Kitchen Aid immersion blender to incorporate a tiny pinch of xanthan gum (sorry, I do not have a mg scale). I also added more cream. (I like cream.) And I added more vanilla to hopefully cover up the cornstarch taste. Forgive me for not having been more scientific with the measurements. To my taste the recipe is much improved. It is very good Philadelphia style ice cream. Though having grown up in Philadelphia I don't think people put cornstarch in their ice cream, nor xanthan gum for that matter. The respun ice cream is still quite scoopable. And very easy to eat. Does it compare with the batch of vanilla I made by the icecreamscience method? No. On the other hand it was not a debilitating amount of work to make. On an almost completely different subject, I've been reading Giorgio Locatelli's Made in Italy. What should I come upon when I reached page 566 but a recipe for gelato alla liquirizia! Locatelli uses 45g licorice root powder rather than chopped licorice root.
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