The Old Foodie

I just happened across this journal article <a href="http://www.vqronline.org/articles/2003/spring/jones-new-lookand/">The New Look and Taste of British Cuisine</a> Written in Spring 2003, with this final paragraph: The French publisher, Hachette Pratique, is planning to translate three TV celebrity chefs Delia Smith, the man billed as The Naked Chef, Jamie Oliver, and Rock Stein, the seafood specialist. Delia Smith's first book, a selection of recipes from two of her books has been published with the title La Cuisine Facile d'Aujourd'hui and the author is simply "Delia." It was thought the "Smith" would put people off since news of the new wave of English cooking seems not to have reached Paris. Maybe things are slowly about to change .... Anyone know if these books are in the French bookstores yet, and if they are, how well (or otherwise) they are doing?

Bravo to all of it Tim. I think that the cuisine of France got put on its very strong pedestal at the time when trade and travel were suddenly opening up the world to a larger class of people, and a large part of the appeal was that if it was new, foreign and therefore exotic it was to be admired and aped on that basis alone (something which still happens). France probably got the adoration (rather than, say the Dutch or Germans) precisely because of their obvious unflinching belief that they had the best cuisine - which made the "admirers" subconsciously believe that that must be founded in fact. Perhaps the fashion did not fade as quickly as it might because there were plenty of French chefs available for hire in the early eighteenth century, and it was a great way to "one-up" your neighbours. I think the interesting question is why the "fashion" has endured so long. Agreed - it is time the food world grew up and out of it. Why do we feel we have to nominate a World's Best Cuisine anyway?

Extreme Cuisine, by Jerry Hopkins - similar idea to Unmentionable Cuisine (Calvin W. Schwabe). He tells of taking the placenta home after his son was born, and making paté with it. The recipe for the paté is in the book, in case you are about to have an addition to the family. Janet.

Thanks everyone, I hoped you'd like it and find it useful and interesting. There are already some updates pending - perhaps at the weekend when I have time to add them. I'll keep you informed of changes, and if you have any to suggest, please let me know. Janet

Correct, it's named for Prince of Windisch-Graetz who's cook served this dish during the Napoleon Wars to his Field Marshal. I've found a recipe where veal brain, sweetbread, minced lamb meat,chicken liver and pancetta are ingredients. The secrets are Vin Santo mixed into the noodle dough and cinnamon powder in the meat sauce. ← I think that this naming is controversial: here is an extract from a blog post I did recently on just this topic: A cookbook (Il Cuoco Maceratese) was published during his Papacy [Pius VI elected 1775] by Antonio Nebbia, which is famous on a number of counts. It documents the upper class cuisine of the time, and included mention of the fine French sauces developed by La Varenne. It also included a recipe for the famous lasagne-style dish of the Marchese region now called vincisgrassi (although he called it princisgras) which contains chicken livers, truffles and prosciutto. The name of Nebbia’s dish is the cause of some controversy, with the popular theory that it was named for the Austrian General Windisch Graetz being impossible because the Napoleonic Wars which caused him to be in the region did not happen until long after the book was published. There are other mysteries in the world of pasta words - the origin of the word ‘lasagne’ itself for example. The first written Italian recipe occurs in a fourteenth century cookbook from Naples. However, something pasta-like called ‘loseyns’ is described in The Form of Cury – the late fourteenth century cookbook of the master chefs of King Richard II of England. An even more intriguing (but less likely) contender is a Viking-era dish called ‘langkake’. I'm sure there are other theories, and I'd love to hear them. Janet

Hello and Happy New Year to everyone. I have tidied up my list of freely available historic cookbooks, checked all links, and thought that some of you may be interested. It is at <a href="http://www.mydatabus.com/public/TheOldFoodie/z/Online_Historic_Cookbooks3.pdf">Online_Historic_Cookbooks3.pdf</a> I do want some feedback please - there are bound to be errors, and if you have any to add it would be especially welcome. I'll keep you up-to-date with any changes. If any of you would prefer the Excel spreadsheet from which the pdf was derived, just pm or email me and I'll send. [edited to ask about feedback - I hit the post button too soon - must be that New Year Champagne!] Janet

Using the same inclusive logic, we could lump WSJ journalists in with contributors to some of the dreadful tabloids as poorly skilled scurrious scandalmongers who cater to the lowest common denominator of "news" reader. Luckily, I presume that the highly intelligent WSJ readers manage to find their journal of choice amongst the dross on the newstands. Unlike bloggers of course. Or, to paraphrase someone else on something else - if a prestigious journal prints a stupid thing - it is still a stupid thing. Here's an idea. Next year, ahead of the campaign, someone (you, Pim?) should perhaps give the WSJ an opportunity to atone for their dual sins of elitism and stupidity, and ask them to promote it in their worthy pages amongst their worthy readers.

Thanks for the plug Karen. You seem to have re-booted a few old topics today - having a pre-Christmas freshening-up are you? A safe and happy holiday season to all of my eGullet friends - I have enjoyed my involvement with you all this year. Janet

I just came across this recipe for Spiced Salt from mid-nineteenth century France - it might make a last minute gift for the food-person or history nerd in your life. The amount would need to be scaled down - this amount was clearly a commercial quantity! Spiced Salt. The great cook, Durand, of illustrious memory, advocated the use of spiced salt, which he said had often stood him in good stead. The following are the exact quantities he gave in his recipe. Take twenty ounces of salt, four heads of cloves, two nutmegs, six laurel [bay] leaves, a stick of cinnamon, four whole black peppers, half a quarter of an ounce of basil leaves [not a typo- he means an eighth of an ounce], and the same quantity of coriander seeds; pound in a mortar, pass through a tammy, pound any pieces that remain over, pass through the tammy, and keep in tightly corked bottles. From: 366 Menus and 1200 Recipes; by the Baron Brisse (originally published in 1868, this was transcribed from the eighth edition of the English translation).

It is thanks to you, Pim. It wouldn't have happened at all without your idea, enthusiasm, time and energy. A lot of hungry people around the world are going to be very grateful to you. Isn't the 'blogosphere' great!

You are not having plum pudding???? Any other steamed pud would work if you want a hot dessert - no need to refrigerate the pud over the course of the day, and just re-heat when you are ready. Sticky date pudding?. A fabulous cake would work well. Chocolate mud cake? I often make a marzipan cake - it has Amaretto in the mixture, and adults can always add more to their serving; it mellows beautifully. If there is enough room in the freezer for ice-cream to go with the cake, so much the better. Or something like baclava - nuts and honey are good at Christmas.

Thanks indybear, I was just thinking this thread needed reviving - especially as some new prizes have been added since the appeal started. If you haven't at least been over for a look at <a href= "http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2006/12/menu_for_hope_i.html">Menu for Hope</a> then you dont deserve to call yourself a food-lover, foodie, gourmand, gourmet, glutton, or epicure - or whatever else it is you call yourself. There are some truly amazing things there - some that you literally cannot buy, and all for a wonderful cause. The donation page is at <a href = "http://www.firstgiving.com/menuforhopeIII">First Giving</a>

I've been racking my brain and my computer files to find out an exact quotation about thanksgiving pies - anyone out there help me? It was along the lines of "if you tell me which sort of pies grace your table at thanksgiving, I'll tell you where (in the South?) you are from".

Okay, you asked for it! Going way back in time now; what's the easiest thing to cook and eat? Soup or stew, (which is only a matter of thickness), can be made with fruits, vegetables, meat or any combination thereof. It's easy to throw together, uses up scraps and odd pieces and parts, and isn't time sensitive in that one pot can be eaten over a long period of time. What began life as soup often became stew, and later on almost a pudding or solid, at which point it would of necessity have become highly seasoned. (think mincemeat) A good way to get another meal out the resulting concoction would be to bake it in a pie shell. Hence, anything baked in or on a crust becomes "pie". (pizza thus qualifies) The only problem with pie, those little triangular TupperWare containers notwithstanding, is its nonportability. Completely encasing the contents within the crust solves this problem. When used for friut or nut fillings these are generally called "pastry". The quite similar word, "pasty", refers to a meat filling. SB (or, maybe not?) ← Historically 'Pies' were originally a way of baking a large piece of meat - the dough acted as a baking dish and storing and carrying container before baking dishes, refrigerators (the sealed dough was like a can, if it was not cracked or breached in any other way), and tupperware. A pie was a 'bake-meat'. So yes, from that point of view, pizza may indeed be pie, if you dismiss the complete enclosure of the contents as being irrelevant to the definition. However, since the development of pastry (wonderful invention), we need to distinguish between bread dough and pastry-pies, or even a sandwich could be included, thus causing massive confusion when ordering one's lunch. Hence, my argument that now, a pie has pastry, not bread dough. However - this beggars the original puzzle which was to do with the difference in emphasis between pie being a dessert in the USA and a meat option in other places. I need some assistance with theories for this if I am to cover the cultural aspects in my book!

I suspect the plentiful fruit and the relative scarcity of wheat in early American settlements had something to do with it - pies take less flour than bread to make. The early 'enforced' settlers of Australia (convicts and marines) were predominantly the urban poor from England, and for them the idea of meat as the basis of the diet was the ideal to which they aspired. The country certainly supported cattle and sheep more easily than fruit and veg too. Early free settlers were lured to the country with the promise of "meat three times a day". There must be more theories - come on folks, where are they? As for pizza being 'pie' - I have to disagree. The crucial thing was the development of pastry as distinct from bread dough. If bread dough can make it pie, then a toasted sandwich is a pie. Sorry, just wont do.

I do truly believe it is the Thought that Counts, and you must have a lot of thoughts about your friend. Most food-lovers only really want food-related things at Christmas! (dont we?). To make the food/gift basket idea even more special and personal, how about "theming" one to his particular favourite thing?. I made an ice-cream themed basket for my brother in law one year - tall sundae glasses, long spoons, various toppings (get creative here) wafers etc etc. Or if he likes lemons - all things lemon (some home-made of course) - lemon shortbread, lemon butter, limoncello, - you get the idea. All wrapped up in lemon paper. Or a 'breakfast in bed' tray of goodies, all done up nicely (dont forget the mini champagne). And whatever else you all do, perhaps you could consider buying a virtual raffle ticket in the <a href = "http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2006/12/menu_for_hope_i.html">Menu for Hope</a> fundraiser being hosted by pim, to add to your very creative baskets. Even if he has a massive library, I bet your friend doesn't have four signed editions by Tony Bourdain, or would love an evening at Alinea.

I'm sure they'll age fine. I remember many years ago when I was younger and poorer I found in the back of the pantry some fruit cake well past its prime and very dry. I crumbled it up, 'wet' it with something (I'd use something spirity now, but it was probably just water then) and packed it into a pudding basin and steamed it and - Voila! - Steamed Christmas pudding. It was really good.

I'm afraid that's classified information, Janet. We don't talk about these things. Not easily, anyway. Goodness knows what might be unleashed. (Shudder.) ← Can you be bought? Or can I just pay for therapy for a few of you to enable you to talk freely and un-embarrassedly about what is clearly a sensitive issue? Its all the fault of that cake/pie thread you know. It made everyone too anxious and threatened about their feelings on the topic.

Here is a selection from one of my (now deceased) English aunts. Quick Method 1 ¾ cups sugar 2 teaspoons cream of tartar 1 ½ teaspoons ground ginger 1 large teaspoon tartaric acid 1 teaspoon lemon essence 1 gallon water. Mix well and use immediately. 2-day Ginger Beer 32 cups water 4 cups raw sugar 2 dessertspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon tartaric acid juice 2 lemons 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 teaspoon dry yeast Dissolve the yeast in warm water. Add the other ingredients. Bottle the next day. Ready in 2 days. Ginger Beer (with Ginger Beer Plant) 2 level dessertspoons caster sugar 2 pints warm water 1 oz dried yeast 2 level dessertspoons ground ginger To feed each day: 2 level dessertspoons caster sugar and 2 level dessertspoons ground ginger. To finish making the drink: 1 ½ lb caster sugar 2 pints boiling water juice 3 large lemons 5 pints cold water. Melt the 2 dessertspoons sugar in 1 ¼ pints of the warm water, whisk in the yeast and leave in a warm place for the yeast to work (it will get frothy when it is ready – about 15 minutes). Do this in a largish jar. Stir in the remaining water and the 2 dessertspoons ginger and 2 level dessertspoons caster sugar. Cover the jar loosely. To complete the drink: dissolve the sugar in water, add the lemon juice with the cold water and carefully pour into this the clear liquid on top of the jar (leave the sediment behind). Pour the drink into bottles, and leave a week before using. It will keep for about three weeks (in a cool place). Keep re-feeding the sediment and make more ginger beer!

Thank Goodness! I've been really upset about them! I had visions of your aunts being cake-less at Christmas, and some evil thieves enjoying their ill-gotten gains. What happened or Where were they? Janet

Pim, are you still taking donations? Someone reading this forum who didn't already know about Menu for Hope might want to donate something.

Food bloggers round the world are now participating in "Menu for Hope III", to raise money for the <a href = "http://www.wfp.org/english/">World Food Program</a>. The project was conceived and is being hosted by Pim at <a href = "http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2006/12/menu_for_hope_i.html">Chez'>http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2006/12/menu_for_hope_i.html">Chez Pim</a>. Last year over $17,000 was raised for UNICEF, this year the donations already look like that wonderful total will be easily beaten. There are some fantastic prizes - dinners at some of the best restaurants in the world (including Manresa, Tetusuya's), lots of books (including an autographed set of four by Anthony Bourdain), cooks tools, food parcels, wine and wine books, also services such as photo lessons and web-site design. If you love food, are grateful for having plenty of it and want to help those who dont, please consider buying one or more virtual raffle tickets at $10 each. The full list of prizes is at <a href = "http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2006/12/menu_for_hope_i.html">Chez Pim </a> The donation page is at <a href = "http://www.firstgiving.com/menuforhopeIII">First Giving </a>

Granola ("Women's Nuts") This is the only breakfast cereal I eat - which is not boring, as the recipe is infinitely variable. I was making it one day when friends called in, and I was (jokingly) telling them of its health benefits (as well as its taste!) and added that it was particularly good for women of "a certain age" (half-jokingly) because it was high in phyto-oestrogens. My daughter commented that I should commercialise it and sell it, and the friend replied that it would need a catchy name, and how about "Women's Nuts". It has been called that in our house ever since. This is the basic recipe, to vary as you wish: GRANOLA or “WOMEN’S NUTS” 3 cups oats 1 cups barley or oat bran 1 cups soy flour 1 cups wholemeal flour ½ cup sesame seeds ½ cup shredded coconut ½ cup chopped nuts Mix well together: ½ cup honey ½ cup oil ½ - 1 cup juice (apricot, apple, grape, whatever) Mix the honey/oil mix through the the oat mixture, squeezing it well together. Leave as lumpy as desired. Add more juice if it needs it Toast in low oven until brown, stirring occasionally, and breaking up the larger clumps. When cooled down add: 1 cup toasted nuts (macadamias are the favourite here) 1 cup sunflower seeds 1 cup "crunchy" bran (the commercial kind, not the bulk fine flaky kind). Add dried fruit too, if you wish. To make a Christmas version - add green pistachios and red cranberries. Give it as a gift in a nice jar. Keywords: Easy, Breakfast, Non-Alcoholic Beverage ( RG1895 )

Chocolate Alcohol Christmas Cake. I have made this cake for many years, and this year posted it in the Fruitcake thread where some feedback suggested even more chocolate would be good! The original recipe is below, but next time around I am going to substitute a 1/4 cup of plain flour with another 1/4 cup of cocoa, and perhaps add even more chopped chocolate. A white chocolate variation with red/yellow/orange fruits is also here. CHOCOLATE ALCOHOL CHRISTMAS CAKES. 1650 gm dried fruit. 1/3 cup honey or golden syrup. 1 cup alcohol of your choice (choc or choc-orange liqueur is good, whisky or brandy or rum) shredded or grated rind of one orange and one lemon 100gm (at least) of good quality chocolate, chopped up. 125 gm of nuts, if you wish. Pecans are good. 2 cups plain flour 1 cup self-raising flour ¼ cup cocoa (good quality Dutch, or Callebaut choc powder is great) 250 gm butter (NO substitutes, good cake needs good butter) 300 gm dark brown (or black) sugar 6 eggs. Mix the fruits, honey,alcohol, and rinds in a big jar, and marinate as long as possible. When you are ready to make the cake, sift together the flours and cocoa. Beat together the butter and sugar until creamy, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Fold the fruit mixture, the chopped chocolate, and the nuts into the creamed mixture, then fold in the dry ingredients in 2 batches. Put in the greased tins, decorate the tops with cherries and nuts if you wish. This makes one 24 cm cake PLUS 6 small cakes made in LARGE muffin tins, or make all small ones. Time to cook: the small cakes about 1 hour at 120 degrees Celsius, the large one 3 ½ to 4 hours. Now the very different version, a la Christmas 2005. LIGHT & BRIGHT CAKE.- Otherwise also known as SUMMER SOLSTICE CAKE. Make it as above, but instead: Use all red and yellow fruits – dried cranberries (better than glace cherries I think), chopped dried apricot, peach, pear; crystallised ginger; the pale yellow sultanas. Use a fruity liqueur – I used peach Schnapps because that’s what I had - and it was fantastic, but Grand Marnier or Curacao would be good I think. I think I added one teaspoon of vanilla extract too. Use white sugar (vanilla if possible) No cocoa, use an extra ¼ cup plain flour instead. White chocolate of course. Macadamia nuts (slightly roasted first) instead of pecans. Pour more of the alcohol of your choice over the cakes as they are cooling, and as often afterwards as you can, until time for eating. Keywords: Cake, Christmas, Fruit, Chocolate ( RG1894 )

The recipe you gave calls for 120°C which is 250°F, is that the correct temp? Thanks ← That's the correct temp in my oven, which runs pretty "hot". Really, there is so much variation between domestic ovens that you have to make a judgement call about your own. Fruit cakes are much more forgiving than lighter cakes, so err on the side of a lower temp as you dont want the outside to cook too quickly. I am sure some of the professionals can give you a more scientific guide!