The Old Foodie

Can I count historic "cookbooks" in the form of pdf files, scans, cut-and-paste Word documents as well as "real" cookbooks? it would be impossible as an individual to actually own many of the classic historic cookbooks (except where there are facsimiles available) of the eighteenth century and before, but I seem to have a goodly collection of electronic versions. At least they dont take up bookshelf space because there is none left in this house!

Here is an example of an Escoffier menu- for the President of France and the King and Queen of Norway, in 1908. Menu du Diner Offert par M. le President Fallieres a LL. MM le Roi et la Reine de Norvege 27 Mai 1908 Melon frappé Consommé Théodora Crème de Volaille à l’ancienne Truites Saumonée u vin du Rhin Poulets de grain à la Parisienne Selle de Pré-salé Forestière Foies gras frais glacés au Xérès Granité à l’orange Sorbets au kummel Dindonneaux au truffés Jambons d’York au Champagne Salade Gauloises Asperges d’Argenteuil sauce Crème Poires Crassanes Friandises Dessert Pity I dont have the wine list for that meal!

I think there are a couple of different issues showing up here: to call something "Kobe Beef" when it is clearly not from Kobe, is false advertising or clear misrepresentation - and therefore possibly even an offence under the law, then there is the issue of using the name of a classic dish and interpreting it so freely that it has no resemblance to the original, which upsets knowledgeable diners. The latter issue is due to "Dont know" or "Dont care" - neither of which is excuseable in a professional. It is also stupid from a business point of view I would think - knowledgeable diners tend to eat out, so to put off good customers is idiotic, even if a restaurateur is not personally inclined to "truth in dining". I'd vote with my feet on this one, and take my business elsewhere.

I admit to being a food history nerd, and loving food history trivia, and I can’t help weighing in on this one. What if you ordered “squab pie” – and it had mutton, not baby pigeon in it? Actually, what if it had mutton and APPLES in it? Even though the Oxford English Dictionary defines “squab” as (a) “A newly-hatched, unfledged, or very young bird” and (b) specifically “a young pigeon”, it defines “squab pie” as being “chiefly composed of mutton, pork, apples, and onions, with a thick crust.” If you ordered “Devonshire Squab Pie”, you could hardly complain about the lack of squab, because the chef could plead culinary history. South-West England is noted for its apples (and cider), and they even used to grow apple types specifically for “squab” pie. How did a mutton, apple, and onion pie get the name I wonder? Genuine pigeon pies were for the rich, so perhaps they were the poor man’s own joke? Or perhaps it was the rich man’s joke against the peasant – a bit like the “Welsh rabbit” idea? Does mutton plus apple (and usually onion) taste like pigeon (it doesn’t to me)? Any other ideas? My favourite explanation is from a little Devonshire cookbook in my possession, which says that it comes from “Squabble Pie”, or the compromise pie when the master is demanding meat pie and the mistress wanting apple! I love this explanation - its as good as the naming of "Matrimony Sauce" and "Matrimony Pudding". Slightly off the subject - my own personal peeve to do with menus is spelling errors - they scream kitchen ignorance just as much as the issues under discussion here. I am almost unable order at a restaurant that has "vinegarette" dressing on the menu.

Hello Kerry Beal and everyone. Here is recipe from Damien Pignolet. Oeufs Mollet (Eggs with creamy Yolks) To cook a mollet egg it should be chilled and pierced before being plunged into boiling water and simmered for exactly five minutes for a standard 60 gm egg, Stop the cooking by placing the egg under cold running water for several minutes. Shelling requires carea nd patience and is easier if done under cold running water. The eggs are firm but can split, so my trick is to line an egg-shell carton with cling wrap and stand the eggs up in it to support their form then chill until needed. . He suggests you pierce the blunt end of the egg with a needle. I would add that you need a large pan of water to ensure that it doesn't go too far off the boil when you add the cold eggs. You can reheat them by putting them in simmering water for a minute. I generally use 70g eggs and cook them 6 minutes for my husband and 6 1/2 for myself, as I get nervous around wobbly egg white. Next I'm going to try his Tiny Omelette of Goat's cheese and Pine Nuts. Postscript: thanks to the two kind e-Gulleters who drew my attention to the fact that my original posting was longer than 100 words, so breaching the Fair Use code. It is now edited to an acceptable length!

Hello everyone, I'm very new around here, but this thread has me very intrigued. I ask - why bother poaching in plastic wrap? Why not just poach? This method sounds like fun, and the eggs do look interesting, but the method doesn't avoid the fat, which for some people is the reason for poaching rather than frying - although personally I'd take the risk of duck fat over the possibility of melted plastic wrap any day. It just struck me as I was writing this - isn't there something slightly weird about taking an item of food which comes already supplied with its own perfect container, removing that container, and re-wrapping the item in plastic to cook it? Here is a different idea, from Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery (1845) TO COOK EGGS IN THE SHELL, WITHOUT BOILING THEM. (An admirable receipt.) This mode of dressing eggs is not new, it seems, indeed, to have been known in years long past, but not to have received the attention which its excellence deserved. We saw it mentioned with much commendation in a most useful little periodical, called the Cottage Gardener, and had it tested immediately with various modifications and with entire success. After many trials, we give the following as the best, and most uniform in its results, of our numerous experiments. First, put some boiling water into a large basin – a slop basin for example – and let it remain for a few seconds, then turn it out, lay in the egg (or eggs), and roll it over, to take the chill off the shell, that it may not crack from the sudden application of heat; and pour in – and upon the egg – quite boiling water from the kettle, until it is completely immersed; put a plate over it instantly and let it remain, upon the table, for twelve minutes, when it will be found perfectly and beautifully cooked, entirely free from all flavour and appearance of rawness, and yet so lightly and delicately dressed as to suit even persons who cannot take eggs at all when boiled in the usual way. Obs. – This is one of the receipts which we have reproduced here from our cookery for invalids, on account of its adaptation to the taste generally. I haven't tried Eliza's method (yet), but I have been enjoying the admirable receipt for Oeufs Mollet from Damien Pignolet's new book "French". I can post the recipe if anyone is interested.

Oh Dear Gifted One ! You are taking a risk asking about .... ←

Hello Everyone, As this is my first-ever e-Gullet post, I guess I should introduce myself. Firstly, thankyou to Anne for thinking my blog "The Old Foodie" was worthy of bringing to your attention, to Melissa for inviting me to join you, and to Kristin for expediting my membership application. I have lurked in e-Gullet for a long time, but am now very happy to be out of the closet (pantry?), and am humbled and honoured to be in such illustrious company. I love food, and cooking (for people I love) and I am fascinated by food history. Here comes the disclaimer: I am not an academic food historian, nor any other sort of professional in the food industry, I am an enthusiast. I believe I have a very broad understanding of food history, but believe me there are plenty of shallows! I welcome questions, feedback, and corrections, and do hope I can occasionally add some value to the discussions here. Janet (aka The Old Foodie) (now I guess I have to work out all the "signature" stuff!)