gfron1

Alrighty...so here we go. As I was developing this menu I had docsconz's voice in my head (I often have eGers' voices in my head when I do things like this). In various topics, but mainly in the thread on best MG restaurants in the world, I remembered John talking about the MG restaurants that jump the shark and are more interested in pursuing an idea/gimmick versus putting out great food. I know that I have a tendency to do that because the more techniques I learn, the more I want to play. And that often leads to my emphasis being on technique instead of taste. So with John's voice ringing loudly, this menu wasn't a slave to the concept of aphrodisiacs or kama sutra. I worked in aphrodisiac ingredients when appropriate, and let the KS titles find an appropriate home with a dish instead of modifying a dish to fit the KS position. Here's the setup. Four times per year I put on a tasting dinner that themes with the season. Winter was surely the hardest to theme with since I also try to source much of my food locally. For this dinner I was only able to use a handful of locally produced foods. This meal also happened to land on Valentine's Day which was coincidence not design, and that led to the theme of the Kama Sutra. I sell tickets through my store/cafè to 18 guests, which each dinner has become easier and easier to sell the tix as word gets out. The meal is hosted at a personal home - a home that I've paired with the season and meal. I didn't get any pics of this home, but its an old adobe that has been hippied out by some long-time local hippies (aged now into hip hippies) with solar, wood burning stoves, and many, many organic evolutionary add-ons to the home. The main room has the shape of an old fashioned circus tent with a high spot draping down to the outside, all of which is adobe. There are no straight lines with this house. And even though we're in the Southwest, we're in the mountains, so right now its cold. The house was warm and homey and welcoming. Just what I wanted for a winter dinner. I've struggled with wine for all three meals. We don't have a liquor license, so in the previous two meals I've asked guests to bring their favorite wines and I would pair them. Well, that didn't work on two grounds. First, I didn't know many of the wines, so I was doing crude pairings (syrah = red meat), and second, the wines were shared with the whole table, so I had guests bring very nice wine that they never got to taste, while they were stuck with someone else's Yellowtail (it wasn't quite that bad, but you get the idea). For this dinner I said, bring whatever wine you want and it will remain at your table setting, we'll just provide the openers. That was fine, but I want a better system to let the wine work with the food. Of my 18 guests, four had been to the previous dinners and had an idea of the style of food. The other 14 had no idea, had never heard of Alinea or el bulli, etc. I did a brief introduction that explained the style of preparation and then told them to shut off their analytic brains and enjoy the ride. This meal leaned more heavily on meats since its an area where I need to grow in my skills. As such I had been studying the new Keller book and borrowed from it for this meal, as I did Alinea, which I'm much more comfortable with Achatz's techniques. Enough intro, here's the meal. Course 1: Amuse Bouche: The Lotus A direct ripoff from Alinea. Freshly squeezed granny smith juice sphere encapsulated in horseradish white chocolate/cocoa butter shell, set in celery juice. For those of you who know this dish, my shell was a tad thick, meaning it did burst easily in their mouths, but required a second of chewing to swallow the shell. Not ideal, but the flavors always have been, and always will be a great starter to a meal. I stayed mostly in the kitchen which was out of site (normally I find houses where the kitchen is visible so as to add to the drama), but I knew we were off to a good start when I heard the roars of laughter - it is a fun dish! Course 2: Splitting the Bamboo My adolescent male went wild with this one. I flew in ultra fresh tuna loin, cut it into smaller stips, coated in black and white sesame seeds, a bit of seasoning, and a quick pan sear to leave the inside very sumptuously red and meaty. I then split the strip and spread the legs (so to speak). Set inside the crotch was a reverse spherification of smoked oysters to which I added a high end tonic water. The plating included a nori flakes, savory malt, soy granola and miso nage. Another hit, but I was cursing in the kitchen because I realized I had cut the tuna too large and was filling bellies too quickly. A smaller cut would have been more appropriate, and would have made for more delicate plating which would have fit this dish much better. Course 3: Caressing the Bud In this course I was using Keller's technique for sous vide radishes, but I made some modifications which had nice results. The radishes were cooked in a sweet vinegar sauce, served with sunchoke soup, fried carrot threads and what I was calling a rubic's cube of root vegetables. Originally this was going to be a perfect 3-d cube of carrot, beet and parsnip. I tossed the beets because I knew there were going to bleed (although in retrospect, that could be a cool effect too). I then tossed the cube idea when we tried to get perfect cuts - it was just too hard to achieve that level of precision, so we went to the flat sheet you see above. I then tossed the cubes in corn start assuming the moisture, then the heat of the water bath would fuse the cubes. For the most part this worked well. A few cubes fell off but that actually made for a nice effect as well. A quick pan sear and onto the plate. I considered this one of my two courses for people to relax the senses - nothing too fancy, just comfort foods to take a break before the onslaught that was coming next. Course 4: Mirror of Pleasing My favorite course to plate although my pics sucked hence the ultra close up. Caviar set inside of a geleè with lime pudding, banana foam, curry salt, citrus flakes and sous vide monk fish cooked with fennel. This course evolved greatly. First, the geleè was supposed to have sea urchin gonads. I couldn't get them. Next, the geleè was supposed to have crawfish brains. I couldn't get them. What kind of Cretans are running this town! So I settled for caviar - a relatively low end caviar which was okay because I wanted the saltiness and the pop which I achieved. Second, the monkfish was supposed to be a much more important part of this dish. I ordered a fresh whole and received frozen fillets - I wasn't happy. I had been studying Morimoto's processing demo in the Chef's Congress topic and really stressing over it, and then these frozen bags showed up. Bummer - no liver, no gills...boring. Still a really good course that had exquisite plating. Course 5: Pair of Tongs OMG! This was the first time I had ever prepared or eaten belly. First, I've sent a deposit to my cardiologist, but second, this was one of the best things I've ever eaten. Riffing off of Alinea's recipe, its a sous vide cooked belly seasoned with cayenne and smoked paprika. Each cube is then topped with a thin sugar shell also seasoned and set under a broiler to melt. The result is a thin crisp shell over a luscious moist and highly flavorful cube of meat. Plated with mascarapone polenta, juniper berry sauce and savory chocolate soil. This was the course that I first started hearing, "I don't know if I'll be able to finish this meal," - damn that tuna steak! Everyone did finish however, and nothing came back on any plates. Course 6: Congress of Crow Help! Plating Emergency! Duck breast pastrami, rye gnocchi, pickled mustard seeds, chestnut oil pudding, slaw and a roasted chestnut financier. I had the best sous chef I could have asked for in eGer Patrick A. He's off at culinary school now, but came back to assist me and I'm so glad he did. His skills have improved. He has clearly let some of my snobbery and discernment rub off on him. And his speed is much improved. That said, this course suffered from too many hands on the plate. I need more precision in my gnocchi cuts, straighter lines in the pudding, and a more delicate hand on the coleslaw which was plated by one of the servers. But, it was as equally delicious as it was ugly. Also, a quick note about the use of a chestnut financier. A while back I had bought chestnut flour and accidentally wound up with roasted instead of regular. The smokey flavor has ruined one dish after another HERE is the best example - the only combo that I've really liked has been in a white chocolate scone. During NPR's Thanksgiving food show this year, one of the guests made a passing comment that "The cabbage family loves smokey flavor." I wrote it on my prep board at the cafè and sat on it waiting for the right time. Finally this dish came into being and I knew it was my chance to apply that statement. It worked incredibly well. Good combo. Course 7: Milk & Water This was the only course that I didn't think was good. Most of the guests liked it but I did hear one say, "I guess my palate isn't developed enough to appreciate this." I don't like hearing that. My snobbery is self-imposed, not intended to be passed on to the guests. This was the cheese course. I had numerous technical difficulties and the highlight never worked. It was supposed to have cheese caviar which never would set for me. The cheese cracker was supposed to be filled with cheese sauce - the cracker was too hard. So I went for the punt and put the sauce on the bottom, a bit of pear puree, and szechuan peppercorns. Let's forget this one and move on... Course 8: Pop!corn A mechanical difficulty here - my immersion blender died. Always bring a backup system! Alinea's popcorn soup with caramel foam - a foam that I had no way to froth. On the skewer is a popcorn ball dipped in chocolate and rolled in neutral pop rocks - our menu orgasm! Roars of laughter filled the room. Course 9: Butterfly Such a pretty dish, and such perfect flavors after all the previous food. Citrus compari granite, lemon curd, grapefruit geleè, citrus flakes, and the infamous damiana geleè cube. Standing ovation by the guests for Patrick and I and then I explained damiana and passed the bottle for them to enjoy. I'm happily rested and ready to start planning my Spring menu for May.

Same - I've got some that are going on 4. Make sure they are stored flat as they can tend to ripple. The rippling can be fixed when you use them, but sometimes its better to have a flat sheet. I keep mine on a bottom shelf, layed flat, under a baking sheet that never gets used.

I just did this method this weekend and melted the sugar over sous vide pork belly. It was a huge hit. I made my fondant from scratch and really struggled with it, so i'll be looking to buy a tub in the future. The sugar was seasoned with smoked hot paprika ala Alinea's cookbook.

See...I just don't get this. If its not dark, its not done. I'm not making my croissants out of a can with a plump little cartoon dude. And yes, the egg wash makes it look fake - correct - fake - whatever!

thanks for finding that link for me again. I did sub (morbier & gorganzola) my cheeses, but have both from the original recipe, so I'll give it another go as well.

I found a recipe on the web which I have since lost. My notes say: 175 g Gruyere 45 g Maytag Blue 200 g Water 5 g Milk Powder Blend ingredients. Drop into bath of 1000 g Water 5 g Sodium alginate When I went to make them I wondered where the calcium chloride/lactate was in the recipe? But I did a test run anyway and got white slime in my bath. Has anyone made this before that can correct my recipe?

I've watched enough Peoples Court to think that you have sufficient documentation to file a claim in small claims court. Seriously, your filing fee will be like $50 and if he had 5 cards go denied (assuming they were his), then you want to get in line in case there is a bankruptcy coming.

I always want a bit of dimension - so maybe some stacking is in order (without getting obnoxious about it). Or, I can also see this in a martini glass: cake, cheese, quince, pistachios.

yeah - get that camera mojo worked out - these flavor combos sound great.

One major gripe, now that I've been using this book quite a bit - get a better proofer! I've found so many damn page references that are simply wrong. I'm 0/4 on the recipe I'm doing which keeps referring back to the "basics" section.

Well my question has been answered - I don't have two weeks...I have two days But to answer your questions, I want just the seeds to go on a dish that I'm serving. And how have I never pickled before...I don't know, but if you want I can go through the list of other things I've never done. It might take a while though. But, someone gave me a great, fast, but expensive idea...pull them out of my French cornichons, since they have a lot sitting on the bottom. Thanks.

I really want to do this since I had it at a restaurant a long time ago, but I've never pickled...well...anything before. Anyone have a guess at how its done?

My sourcing details are pretty much complete which brings me to this version of the menu. I still could use some help on incorporating aphrodisiac ingredients if they fit. 1. The Lotus: Alinea's apple celery shot (buys me time as I prep the rest) 2. Splitting the Bamboo: Seared tuna, smoked oyster sphere; Savory malt/soy granola set in sugar tube, fresh bamboo shoots; bamboo green geleè 3. Caressing the Bud: sousvide sunchoke and radish; SV root vegetable rubics cube; cilantro crisp; heirloom beets; artichoke petals in trout mousse; fried carrot threads; cilantro chutney (I couldn't get urchin - so I modified this course) 4. Mirror of Pleasing: Crawfish; lime pudding; banana; curry salt; monkfish; onion crisp; vanilla foam (I couldn't get pig tails so I dropped this course) 5. Pair of Tongs: Pork belly; polenta; juniper sauce; chocolate soil; potato 7. Congress of the Crow: Duck pastrami; rye gnocchi; chestnut pudding (still debating that flavor); slaw; roasted chestnut financier (for anyone who knows - I have 50# of roasted chestnut flour that resulted in numerous failed desserts in 2008 - I'm prepared to toss this if it doesn't work) 8. Milk & Water: Blue cheese cauliflower; cheese crakers; cheese crisp; fresh figs aren't available so fig spread; pear puree 9. No sexual position, but popcorn with poprock twizzler 10. Butterfly - orange and rose stuff that I'll come up with including damiana agar cubes & blood orange

No kidding - that looks great. A big ball of ice cream and glass of port and I'm a happy camper!

real conversation tonight... Me: When you go to the store see if they have crawfish - they should be in season Spouse: Why do you need them? Me: I couldn't get urchin gonads so I think I can reasonably substitute crawfish brains Spouse: Blank stare I may have taken this menu too far...

I threw that sign out ages ago. It just says Chocolate Croissant now. Bunch of Cretans!

If we're talking specifically about the croissants there are two factors. The first is that I don't do them daily - don't have the time, so I just put them out on Saturdays. The second factor is, because they are "special" since they only come out once a week, they get their own little pedestal display on the pastry counter (if you've seen my other comments about my search for a better way to display my stuff, this may make more sense). And since they aren't among the pastry masses, I think people walk by them thinking that its a display not a food. And pass the 2x4 over to me when I mention that 99% of my customers have no idea what a chocolate croissant is (they don't understand the shape not being a crescent...you know, like out of the can) unless it has a huge sign underneath it...and don't put any of that fancy French wording next to it or they'll look the other way.

Here's draft #1 of the menu: 1. The Lotus: ripping off Alinea's apple celery shot just because I've been wanting to do it for a while now 2. Splitting the Bamboo: Seared tuna tube, split and flayed open; a smoked oyster sphere set in between (not sure how oyster will work in the spherification process); Savory malt/soy granola set in sugar tube (a recent TGRWT creation of mine that I really liked), fresh bamboo shoots (not sure what I want to do with them beyond looks); bamboo green geleè 3. Caressing the Bud: sousvide sunchoke and radish; SV root vegetable rubics cube; cilantro crisp (not sure about this here); beets; artichoke petals in trout mousse (this also feels forced but might work) 4. Mirror of Pleasing: Sea Urchin (if I can get it); micro herbs; vanilla foam 5. Pair of Tongs: Pig tails with quail eggs; arugula salad - I'm having trouble sourcing the tails 6. Clasping Position: Pork belly; potato 7. Congress of the Crow: Duck pastrami with rye gnocchi 8. Milk & Water: Blue cheese cauliflower; cheese crakers (ala Alinea); cheese crisp; fresh figs if I can get them. I still like Tri2Cook's idea of the filtered milk, but I'm not sure where/how/why yet. 9. No position, but popcorn with poprocks 10. Butterfly - orange and rose stuff that I'll come up with I'm at 54 components which is totally manageable for me. I've got a lot of sourcing problems and not much time, so I'll be ready to punt if I need to. Oh and btw, I have a contract that is taking me out of town on Thursday so I lose a prep day.

I think this whole phenomenon is hilarious. I thought I was the only one dealing with this issue. My rule of thumb is - passive sales pastries don't need perfect, just yumminess looking. If its an active sales item like my mousses and entrements, then I want perfection because they'll be buying it because I told them to. And when I do plated desserts, I want perfection because I want them to view it as art and have that experience.

When the edges show the layers just right, when the sheen on top is perfectly browned and smooth. Sometimes I let a chocolate chip bake on the edge of the opening just so it oozes oh so much.

And no, I'm not even close to having this be a big problem, but I've been thinking lately that my nicer looking stuff doesn't sell as fast as my more rustic pastries. A great example is my croissants. When I'm on and they come out perfectly, they often just sit (except when our European customers come in), and I've had numerous people say, "I thought they were fake." Makes my heart warm to hear that, but not what I want to hear financially. So my question is do others experience this? Do any of you hold back your perfectionist tendencies just to make a sale?

I've worked through the pricing issue for a few years. I once had an awesome workshop set up - 4 hours, meal, and my charming personality. I was trying to charge $50 and I didn't get one taker. I've even tried $40 and few takers. So I struggled with - 1) suck it up and get a decent rate, or 2) try to change our culture and up the rate. I chose the former obviously. Its the old sell a little for a lot or a sell a lot for a little scenario. A great paying job in our town is $40K, so you have to keep perspective. As it is now, I sell out every class. I work to keep my ingredient expenses at $25 or less - which by the way has become a selling point in itself because I am feeding 8 people 4-7 courses (depending on the workshop) for $25. People translate that into their family expense. And we're able to do it all in less than 2 hours - that's a great selling point to a busy family. So, everyone needs to find their own price. I hope some day to up mine, but in the meantime, I'll be happy to keep my sessions full.

I'll fess up - I've never heard of ICE (sometimes I feel so insulated). And when I saw their cute little flier in my recent Chef Rubber shipment, I was prepared to toss it. But then I read the workshops: Pulled Sugar Showpieces with Laurant Branlard 5/11-13 French Pastry with Dimitre Fayard 7/6-8 Chocolate Decorations with Norman Love 9/9-10 Sculpted Cakes with Elissa Strauss 10/19-21 Valrhona Plated Desserts with Derek Poirier 11/4-5 Ummm...wow! I want to go. If someone wants to thank me for sharing this info, you can register me for the Fayard workshop. Thanks. Tangentially related - its odd that they would hold the Fayard workshop conflicting with the pastry championship in Scottsdale.

I've had mixed results with the collapsing and took cues from this thread. The slow cooker method with a very slow cool down did best for me. I recently piped ganache into the center which worked well, and I guess you could open the bottom even more to remove the pit, then pipe.

I can only fit 8 for classes, and I charge $35 for 90 min classes which is low IMO but its the most I've been able to get people to pay consistently. All in all I make around $250 per class if I am the instructor.