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liuzhou

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Everything posted by liuzhou

  1. Solanum tuberosum, the humble potato, spud, tattie, tater. China also has. In fact China is the leading producer of potatoes, with 26% of the supply (2016). There are many different names in Chinese for the tuber of the potato plant, but the most common are 马铃薯 (Mand: mǎ líng shǔ; Cant: maa5 ling4 syu4*2), literally 'horse bell potato'), 土豆 (Mand: tǔ dòu; Cant: tou2 dau6*2), literally 'earth bean', and 洋芋 (Mand: yáng yù; Cant: joeng4 wu6), literally 'foreign tuber'. I am frustrated by Chinese potatoes. They only have one unidentified variety. In fact, many of my otherwise knowledgeable Chinese friends find my telling them that there are hundreds somewhat ridiculous. We get them both as regular sized spuds and as baby potatoes. Those we get are a waxy variety - the least useful in my opinion. However, there is no incentive for them to experiment with other varieties. Potatoes have long been considered 'peasant food' and beneath the dignity of the aspiring classes. That has changed ever so slightly since the introduction of fries through KFC and McDonald's etc, although those companies grow their own potatoes which are not sold directly to the public. One of my abiding memories of my first few months in China is serving chips/fries to some new Chinese friends and before I could stop them they sprinkled sugar all over them! There is however, one Chinese potato dish which I do like. 酸辣土豆丝/酸辣土豆絲 (Mand:suān là tǔ dòu sī; Cant: syun1 laat6 tou2 dau6*2 si1), 'hot and sour potato slivers'. Originally from Sichuan, but available all over China. Potatoes and carrots are finely slivered and stir fried with chilli, then dressed in white wine vinegar. Markets and some supermarkets sell the vegetables pre-cut, just for this dish. It is the only one most people know. Pre-wrapped potato and carrot slivers Then there is the wonderful Muslim dish from China's troubled Xinjiang Province, 大盘鸡/大盤雞 (Mand: dà pán jī; Cant: daai6 pun4 gai1). This is a stew of chicken and potatoes served over noodles. Wonderful. In addition the potato is an important product for the manufacture of potato starch - 马铃薯淀粉/馬鈴薯澱粉(Mand: mǎ líng shǔ diàn fěn; Cant: maa5 ling4 syu4*2 din6 fan2), used as a thickening agent in many parts of China, particularly Sichuan.
  2. Talking of sprouts, we also, of course, get beansprouts. In Chinese, 豆苗 (Mand: dòu miáo; Cant: dau6 miu4) or 豆芽 (Mand: dòu yá; Cant: dau6*2 ngaa4). These generally come in two varieties: 'yellow' and 'green'. The 'yellow' one' are sprouted soy beans (Glycine max ). They are 黄豆芽 (Mand: huáng dòu yá; Cant: wong4 dau6 ngaa4), literally 'yellow bean sprout' or 大豆芽 (Mand: dà dòu yá; Cant: daai6 dau6*2 ngaa4), literally 'big bean sprout. The 'green' are mung bean sprouts. Vigna radiata. 绿豆芽/綠豆芽 (Mand: lǜ dòu yá; Cant: luk6 dau6 ngaa4), literally 'green bean sprout'. Both types of bean sprouts are used in stir fries, with fried noodles, in soups, hot pots, spring rolls etc. They are always cooked.
  3. Thanks. Yes, they have a mild peanut flavour.
  4. Way back when, in this post, I mentioned the dried version of these. A couple of days ago, the fresh ones turned up in one of the local supermarkets. Hericium erinaceus 狮头菇 (shī tóu gū), 'lion head mushroom' or 猴头菇 (hóu tóu gū), 'monkey head mushroom' in Chinese. In English, lion's mane mushroom, monkey head mushroom, bearded tooth mushroom, satyr's beard, bearded hedgehog mushroom, pom pom mushroom, or bearded tooth fungus.
  5. To be honest, the chances of you earning money from such a niche interest is negligible, either through a blog or a book. Do it out of love for the subject, which I think is very worthy.
  6. Solanum melongena Here is another that I never associated with China until coming here. Again it turns out that China grows most of the world's supply - 62% in 2016. I am talking aubergine or eggplant. Being British/French , I default to 'aubergine' from the French, but here I will force myself to use 'eggplant'. not out of deference to sensitive members, but because it is shorter and I'm going to have to type it a lot. 😄 In Chinese, it's 茄子 (Mand: qié zi; Cant: ke4*2 zi2). Technically it's a fruit or berry, but always treated as a vegetable, so here it is. China being in Asia, we usually get the long slim Asian variety. That said, other varieties do turn up on occasion. My local supermarket had three, today - the ones above and these round ones... and these Sadly we do not get the white variety, 白茄子 (Mand: bái qié zi; Cant: baak6 ke4*2 zi2) here, although I've seen them in Hong Kong. Nor do we get the mini Thai eggplants which I love so much, 迷你茄子 (Mand: mí nǐ qié zi; Cant: mai4 nei5 ke4*2 zi). You will notice that the Chinese name includes a Chinese phonetic equivalent if the English 'mini". Eggplants are used in many dishes, but there are two dishes which are well known throughout China. The first, eggplant with minced/ground pork is either 茄子肉末 (Mand: qié zi ròu mò; Cant: ke4*2 zi2 juk6 mut6) or 肉末茄子 (Mand: ròu mò qié zi; Cant: juk6 mut6 ke4*2 zi2). The names indicate which ingredient is predominant. The first indicates that the dish has more egg plant than minced pork, the second the reverse. Some restaurants have both on their menus. The second is 鱼香茄子/魚香茄子 (Mand: yú xiāng qié zi; Cant: jyu4*2 hoeng1 ke4*2 zi2), which translates as 'fish-flavour eggplant'. It contains no fish. In fact, it's vegan in its traditional form. The moniker just means that it is cooked with the flavourings usually used with fish. Many online recipes for these two dishes conflate them into one, but they are from two distinct Chinese cuisines and have very different flavours. The first is from eastern China, especially Hangzhou near Shanghai; the second is from Sichuan. In Yunnan province , the Dai ethnic minority often roast eggplants. Delicious. Eggplant leaves and flowers are not edible and even handling them can cause nasty skin reactions. Eaten in large quantities the leaves are poisonous.
  7. Oh yes. We get the Skippy brand, but also local types. They call that one peanut sauce, but it's peanut butter, really. But it's not a big thing here.
  8. liuzhou

    Dinner 2018

    I had a rather large and carbohydrate heavy lunch, so I passed on them for dinner. Pan fried duck breast over a raw spinach salad with fresh lion's mane mushrooms* sautéed in the rendered duck fat. In Chinese the mushrooms are 狮头菇 shī tóu gū, which translates as 'lion's head mushrooms'. I usually only get them dried, but the market had them fresh this morning.
  9. I decided, when I started this, not to include nuts, so I feel no shame in bringing you this. Arachis hypogaea I suppose most people associate peanuts with the USA, especially the south. Well, they certainly originated in S. America (not south-USA) and are widely consumed in the US, but by far, China is the largest producer today. Whatever you call them - peanuts, ground nuts, earth nuts, monkey nuts, pygmy nuts, pig nuts or goobers, the one thing for sure is that they aren’t nuts. Rather, they are a legume or bean. But hey, as Juliet said, what’s in a name? Peanuts, in Chinese 花生 (Mand: huā shēng; Cant: faa1 sang1), are so important to the cuisine here that it is difficult to imagine what they did before they were introduced by Portuguese traders in the 17th century. Much of China's production goes to cooking oil. Peanut oil is the oil of choice around this part of China. Peanuts are available everywhere. But I have to be careful. Sometimes they are just peanuts in the shell. Other times they have been boiled. I can’t deal with the boiled ones. They feel all wrong. Peanuts in bags from supermarkets are usually just regular peanuts in the shell. Those from street vendors have nearly always been boiled. Don’t ask me why – just one of those Chinese things. You can usually tell by looking. The boiled ones have damp looking slimy surface to the shells. Apart from the regular in-shell nuts, we can also sometimes find what are one of my favourites. Red mud peanuts 红泥花生/红泥花生 (Mand: hóng ní huā shēng; Cant: hung4 nai4 faa1 sang1)! These have been “cured” by being buried in a muddy red paste of unidentifiable ingredients then baked until the shells turn red and the ‘nuts’ take on a pleasant earthy taste. These are good (in my humble). Another oddity is a peculiar strain of peanut in which the bean is absolutely black. Nothing has been done to these - that is just they way they are. Black peanuts – 黑花生 (Mand: hēi huā shēng; Cant: hak1 faa1 sang1). They taste exactly the same as the regular ones. But the nuts nearest my heart are these. Known in Chinese as 酒鬼花生 Mand: jiǔ guǐ huā shēng; Cant: zau2 gwai2 faa1 sang1) or sometimes 啤酒花生 (Mand: pí jiǔ huā shēng; Cant: be1 zau2 faa1 sang1 which translate as “drunkard’s peanuts” or “beer peanuts”, these are right up my street. Basically they are what I consider to be regular roasted and salted peanuts, but they come in two varieties – plain but salted and salted and spicy. I tend to buy a bag of each and mix them 50:50. They are available in every supermarket and corner shop. It isn't obligatory to drink beer with them, but heartily recommended. As well as being eaten with beer or as snacks, peanuts feature in a number of confectionery items and in cooked dishes, such as stir fries and most famously the Sichuan favourite, 宫保鸡丁/宮保雞丁 (Mand: gōng bǎo jī dīng; Cant: gung1 bou2 gai1 ding1), known in the west as ‘Kungpo Chicken’. They also turn up in many soupy noodle dishes. Less well known is that peanuts can be sprouted just like any other bean and served as a vegetable, which is my justification for posting this here. Raw Stir fried. Back to more regular vegetation, tomorrow.
  10. If you are wondering what those are, then you know how I felt when I first encountered them. After doing some research, to my great surprise, I found they are native to a huge stretch of land starting in Ireland and heading all the way to Japan, then veering south through China, Vietnam and hopping to Australia, at some point passing my original home, the UK. I first saw them in Hunan, China. They are the tubers of Sagittaria sagittifolia, apparently known in English as 'arrowheads', on account of their shape. In Chinese, they are 慈菇 (Mand: cí gū; Cant: ci4 gu1). They are referred to in some older books as Chinese potatoes. This aquatic root vegetable has little taste but is valued in Chinese cuisine for its texture ( and some supposed , fanciful, magical health benefits). Unlike most root vegetables it remains crisp even after long boiling. Mainly used in hot pots and soups. Very traditional at Chinese New Year.
  11. No! Those are horrible! I don't have arthritis, but NO!
  12. liuzhou

    Dinner 2018

    1-10-10 brined chicken breast with white wine steamed clams, ginger and garlic; baked mushrooms with scallions. R.ice. Didn't get the sear I wanted on the chicken, but tasted just fine.
  13. The owner and manager of an Indian take away restaurant in the UK have been found guilty of manslaughter after a young woman died from an allergic reaction to their food. In English law this comes under the definition of gross negligence manslaughter where The full story is here. Sentencing will be on November 7th..
  14. liuzhou

    Breakfast! 2018

    I had one sad, lonely, spicy meatball leftover from last night's dinner, so I sandwiched it between two slice of flatbread, topped with some home made, fresh tomato sauce and put it out of its misery.
  15. China often has its own classification system for plants and animals. For example, they are convinced that mice and rats are the same species, just that the rats are old mice. This is reflected in the names they use. They also consider carrots and radishes to be the same, despite them being botanically unrelated. I'll start with radishes. The general term in Chinese for radishes is 萝卜/蘿蔔 (Mand: luó bó; Cant: lo4 baak6). However what we get almost always is the large white version, Raphanus sativus longipinnatus, commonly called 'daikon' after the Japanese name. In the UK, both 'daikon' and 'mooli' are used, the latter being derived from the Hindi name. In Chinese 白萝卜/白蘿蔔 (Mand: bái luó bó; Cant: baak6 lo4 baak6), meaning 'white radish'. These are used in many ways: Cut into chunks and boiled in soups or hot pots, cut into strips and stir fried, used in noodle dishes, pickled, salted, candied etc, etc. We do, very occasionally, see the small red radishes known in the west. They are known as 小萝卜/小蘿蔔 (Mandarin: xiǎo luó bó; Cant: siu2 lo4 baak6), meaning 'small radishes'. Few people know what do do with them. Then it gets silly. Here we go with 'red radish'. Not the above but these. Daucus carota sativus 红萝卜/紅蘿蔔 (Mand: hóng luó bó; Cant: hung4 lo4 baak6) The 'umble carrot. These are used in the same way as the white variety above. Also a popular side dish is potato and carrot, cut into fine strips, stir fried with garlic and finished with white rice vinegar. Very nice. The shoots of all varieties are also eaten.
  16. Juicing ginger is common. I also have a small grater specifically for grating the young ginger to extract juice. In some recipes, the pulp is then discarded. My grater is stainless steel, but bamboo versions can also be found.
  17. It is, but only dried in traditional Chinese medicine pharmacies. It is a type of galangal ( Boesenbergia rotunda) rather than true ginger, and unlike in Thailand, it is not really considered a culinary item here. 凹唇姜/凹唇薑 (Mand: āo chún jiāng; Cant: nap1 seon4 goeng1), "literally 'concave lipped ginger' in Chinese.
  18. Zingiber officinale It may seem odd to some to include ginger in a list of vegetables. Many people regard it purely as a spice, but it is not only used that way in much of Asian cuisine. And it's a more complicated subject than might appear. It is, of course, the rhizome of a plant, which qualifies it as a vegetable in my book. Every supermarket carries three main kinds. The generic term for ginger in Chinese is 生姜/生薑 (Mand: shēng jiāng; Cant: saang1 goeng1) or just 姜 (Mand: jiāng; Cant: goeng1). First we get what I suppose you might call regular ginger, usually called just 姜/薑 (Mand: jiāng; Cant: goeng1) or, if you must specify, then 黄肉姜/黄肉薑 (Mand: huáng ròu jiāng; Cant: wong4 juk6 goeng1), meaning 'yellow flesh ginger'. This is an all purpose ginger. Then we have 子姜/子薑 (Mand: zi jiāng; Cant: zi2 goeng1), or 'young ginger'. This is thin-skinned, often with purplish colouring, especially at the tips. It has a more herbal flavour than the others and is often used lightly pickled. This is what you are served in Japanese restaurants as a mouth cleanser, but is also used in China the same way. When used in stir fries, it is seldom peeled. Pickled Young Ginger Then 老姜/老薑 (Mand: lǎo jiāng; Cant: lou5 goeng1) or 'old ginger'. This is gnarly, drier and has a spicier taste. Difficult to peel, this is often used in soups, stocks and hot pots where the flavour of less spicy types would be likely to be diluted out of existence. In addition to these , we also find what is called 沙姜/沙薑 (Mand: shā jiāng; Cant: saa1goeng1). Despite its common English name, 'sand ginger', this is not a true ginger, but a type of galangal, Kaempferia galanga. It is also known as 'lesser galangal or 'kencur'. It was usually only ever seen sliced and dried to be used in hot pot stocks, but in recent years turns up fresh. Dried Sand Ginger. The whitish slices are about the size of my finger nails. Fresh Sand Ginger Note: Despite claims on some websites, ground ginger is NOT used in Chinese cuisine. The only places I can buy it is in specialist bakery goods stores, There has been a bit of a minor fashion for western style cake baking just recently., but few families have ovens, still.
  19. liuzhou

    Dinner 2018

    Spicy pork meatballs in a fresh tomato sauce with basil. Unusually, I served this with rice as I had some left over from lunch.
  20. Pisum sativum Known as 豌豆苗 (Mand: wān dòu miáo; Cant: wun2 dau6*2 miu4) in Chinese, pea shoots are indeed the leaves of the young plants grown from your common peas. They can be used in salads, but in China they are more commonly used in stir-fries or in soups and hot pots. They taste of, surprise surprise, peas and a light cooking seems to bring out their sweetness. We also get pea sprouts, 豌豆芽 (Mand: wān dòu yá; Cant: wun2 dau6 ngaa4), which are grown and used in the same way as any other bean sprout.
  21. Yes, but that is the gourd. I'm talking about the shoots here.
  22. Lillium brownii Related to the last post are lily bulbs. All lily bulbs are edible, but I do not suggest you head down to your local garden centre for a few. Although they won’t do you any harm, most are somewhat bitter. Three varieties found in China, Lillium lancifolium, L. pumilum, and L. brownii,. lack the bitterness (not that the Chinese mind a bit of bitterness) and are widely used in stir fries and soups. In Guangxi, they are often served with Chinese celery as noted above. Known locally as 百合 Mand: bǎi hé; Cant: baak3 hap), they are cleaned, separated into ‘petals’ and briefly cooked to release their flowery scent, slightly sweet flavour and crunchy texture. I like ’em. They come fresh and dried, but I’ve only ever eaten the fresh variety, which are available in packs of four in many supermarkets. You find them in the chill cabinet where they have plastic wrapped meats and the like.
  23. Xanthorrhoeaceae Hemerocallidoideae Day lilies (some times referred to as one word – daylily) are flowers. They are a lot prettier than their Latin name suggests. The name comes from their habit of flowering only for one day then dying off. There are dozens of varieties in different colours. One variety, a yellow flowered variety, is used in Chinese cuisine. Known as 黄花菜 (Mand: huáng huā cài; Cant: wong4 faa1 coi3) in Chinese (literally “yellow flower vegetable”) or, when dried, 金针/金針 (Mand: jīn zhēn; Cant: gam1 zam10 meaning “Golden Needles”, they are an essential ingredient in the northern pork and scrambled egg dish, 木须肉/木須肉 (Mand: mù xū ròu; Cant: muk4 sou1 juk6) “Moo Shu pork”, but also feature extensively in soups, frequently appearing in hot and sour soups 酸辣汤 Mand: suān là tāng; Cant: syun1 laat6 tong10 or simply just as a simple “Day Lily Soup”. I’ve even made day lily omelettes. Dried Day Lilies They are seldom available fresh, but very easy to find the dried variety. In fact, every supermarket has them.
  24. Pteridum Aquilinim As I am sure many of you know, brake or bracken is a form of edible fern. It is known in Chinese as 蕨菜 (Mand: jué cài; Cant: kyut3 coi3) or 山蕨菜 (Mand: shān jué cài; Cant: saan1 kyut3 coi3). For those who don't know (they are not common in the UK, for example) the purple stems are topped with young unopened fronds. At this stage, the fronds are known as ‘fiddleheads’ because of their supposed resemblance to er, the heads of fiddles! Or to the tuning keys on said instrument. These are particularly valued. The vegetable with its stems is fried with meat – beef, chicken or even shrimp. The fiddleheads can be simply sautéed for about 5 minutes then lightly dressed with lemon juice, and are wonderful with simple steamed fish. They are also sold on supermarket salad counters as below. Some people say the taste is close to that of asparagus. Not sure about that, but they are good. Fiddlehead Salad Brake roots are also used to make a type of black noodles, which resemble squid ink pasta. Fried Brake Root Vermicelli with pork Health Warning Pteridum Aquilinim is considered by some authorities to be a carcinogen and there are suggestions that its popularity in Japan may be a contributory factor in the high rates of stomach cancer found there.
  25. Sechium edule I guess most people are familiar with chayote, the gourd also known among other names, as christophene, vegetable pear, mirliton, choko etc. In Chinese it is 佛手瓜 (Mand: fó shǒu guā; Cant: fat6 sau2 gwaa1 ), literally, Buddha’s hand gourd. Perhaps less well known is that the leaves and young shoots of the chayote vine are also edible and a popular vegetable in southern China. Often described as 龙须菜/龍須菜 (Mand: lóng xū cài; Cant: lung4 seoi1 coi3), literally 'dragon beard vegetable', they also are sometimes more prosaically described as 佛手瓜苗 (Mand: fó shǒu guā miáo; Cant: fat6 sau2 gwaa1 miu4), meaning chayote shoots. Sometimes they come with pretty white flowers which are also edible. Chayote shoots are usually simply stir fried with garlic as a green vegetable dish. Stir fried chayote shoots I'll deal with the chayote gourd separately, when I get round to the many gourds.
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