Fernwood

I make a delicious raspberry buttercream a la RLB ("Neoclassic Buttercream" + raspberry puree). What is so effective about the recipe in Cake Bible is that she reduces just the clear juice of the berries, then adds that syrup back to the flesh. This gives a concentrated puree, without the jammy flavor you get from cooking the whole fruit. I don't have the book here, but the basic method is: Thaw frozen raspberries in a strainer and collect the clear juice that runs off without pressing. Boil down the juice (I use the greased pyrex in the microwave approach). Puree/strain berries to remove most seeds. Add reduced juice back to berries along with sugar, lemon juice, maybe liqueur. As with a number of Beranbaum's recipes, this is extra fuss, but a great result--the flavor is intense and bright. I make a batch of this stuff and freeze it to use as needed for a variety of desserts. And it does make a pretty, pink, luscious buttercream. If it wasn't apple pie season, I'd be planning a cake right now! I should note that I find the color of the frosting is best the first day; it does fade in storage, though it still tastes great. Fern

The Slate Company looks promising! Fifi, it looks like you're running out of excuses. Fern

I think my soapstone countertops are about three years old now, heavily used and minimally maintained. -Soapstone is soft, in the mineralogist's sense. It cannot be polished to a high gloss. It will scratch--some varieties more easily than others. Most scratches will disappear with a touch of oil. Major scratches could be sanded out, but I can't imagine I would ever bother. I have had people ask me, "can you cut on it?" Sure, if you have no more regard for your knives than your countertop. I use a cutting board, same as I did when I had laminate. I guess I might put a little padding under the clamp for the meat grinder. Do not get soapstone if you are fussy about keeping things looking showroom-perfect. Over time, it will show that you actually work in your kitchen, though the evidence will not be as conspicuous as with butcher block. -Soapstone is not porous or acid-sensitive and, in my experience to date, nothing stains or etches it. -Soapstone is very heat-resistant. They use it to build stoves to heat homes in Finland, I think. I love being able to pull pans from the oven and throw them right on the counter. It's a great heat sink; cake pans cool faster sitting on the counter than they do on a wire rack. My only fear is that I will get so used to this that I will do it in someone else's kitchen and burn their non-soapstone countertop. Do get soapstone if you want a countertop with great performance qualities. -Like other stones, soapstone is usually cooler than your hands and makes a nice surface for working with dough. -Oiled soapstone is dark. Make sure you have plenty of light. -As mentioned above, you really cannot maintain the light 'unoiled' look, because every fingerprint will leave a mark. -I don't believe that the oil actually soaks in much (see "not porous"), but probably oxidizes on the surface to form a patina that doesn't wash away so easily. When I am motivated to oil my counters (maybe twice a year), I rub them with an oily cloth, then rub down with dry paper towels. Most of the surface does not lighten appreciably from the usual soapy sponge, but around the undermount sinks the stone at the edge stays lighter, except when freshly oiled, due to frequent water/detergent exposure. -Soapstone is hard, like any stone, when you bang your head or your glassware against it. This is the major criterion on which I would prefer Formica. I hate feeling that I have to set things down gently for fear of chipping the dishes. No dishes have actually chipped, but the feel and the sound that they make touching down inspire fear that they could. The gentle landing becomes automatic with time, but it still annoys me when I think about it. -Overall, my soapstone counters are nearly perfect for me and I am still delighted that I was able to get them. My stone was supplied by M. Teixeira and fabricated by my general contractor, who is a good carpenter with a bit of stone experience and did the work on site. Any other questions? Fern

If you can't find what you want locally, the Baker's Catalogue is a reliable source for all kinds of flavored chips and other ingredients. Scroll to the bottom for two kinds of cinnamon chips. Wow, who knew about baking chips in cherry, and lime? Fern

Wow, Patrick, your geology is much more buff than mine! Smithy, I hope you will take pictures. Fern

I think it will be easy enough to achieve your basic goal with sugar. If you pour melted sugar out and let it cool undisturbed you will get what I believe a geologist would call a glass. When you whack it, it will shatter into irregular, glassy fragments, not cleave into orderly particles. Now, if you take that same melted sugar, throw in some kind of seed particles (like granulated sugar) and stir it while it cools, I think it will end up as a solid mass of small crystals, though I still don't think you would appreciate much of the structure when you smash it. I don't know what geologists call that, but I'm thinking an example would be quartzite vs. obsidian. An interesting project. Have fun! Fern

Sarah, I have grown so fond of my kitchen scale that I will convert all reasonable measurements. Should I assume (per your link in the conversion charts thread) that these are 4 oz cups of flour? Thanks, Fern

What Fat Guy said. I actually have the same opinion and the same brands of equipment (and I don't even know the guy ).

Meredith, What did you use for cocoa and/or chocolate in the various recipes? I have to think that would have some effect on the flavor. Or did they all use the same product? How come I never get invited to chocolate cake taste-offs? Fern

Yes, but the info is given as grams of fat (5) per serving (15 ml), and is clearly rounded off, obscuring any finer distinctions. I believe an actual percent butterfat would be more precise. Actually, I'm not at all sure the information is even very accurate for the specific product. I'm sure there are other eGulleteers with more knowledge about both the regulations and the realities of nutritional labels, but I have the impression that the labels I'm seeing on the cream represent some sort of "standard heavy cream" and I have no confidence that they are particularly accurate. Am I getting too cynical? Fern

Now I wish I could do all of the above! I'm too tired right now to detail the reasons why every one of your suggestions is particularly luscious and appropriate, but every one of them is. Thank you! What I finally decided to do this week: Chocolate chiffon cake, 3 layers Caramel-orange mousse (caramel mousse recipe at Epicurious that Patrick S had linked to previously, but I infused some of the cream with orange zest) Bittersweet orange ganache (again, just infused cream with zest) Caramel buttercream frosting I have made the fillings and assembled the cake, except for frosting, which I will do tomorrow. I'm feeling pretty optimistic about this, especially since I got the cake assembled (upside-down in a pan) without disaster. Of course, I still have the opportunity to blow the whole thing when I turn it out of the pan.... It's quarter-sheet size, and I'm only accustomed to handling 9" rounds for assembling layered extravaganzas. But, as the pros have advised many times, chilling helps a lot. Anyway, I think the flavors will work. And then, I hope the weather stays cool so I can try the Black Pearl cake and then do one with mint ganache and then.... Fern

I've done it and it worked very well. To tell the whole truth, the cream also had cocoa in it; I don't know if that has any effect of its own. I frosted a tall layer cake with it and it held beautifully for several days, if I recall correctly. I do think the butterfat content is key. In my market the store brand offers "whipping cream" and "heavy whipping cream." Because it costs more, I assume the latter has more fat, but the % is not labelled. I'm not sure that any of the cream in my dairy case has the % butterfat listed, but I will look again. And you won't be surprised to learn that every carton of cream is ultrapasteurized; no choice there. Anyway, I buy the "heavy whipping cream", but you know that many folks are choosing the more economical carton; we just hope they are not trying to frost a cake with it. While I'm sure Wendy's technique is important, I suspect it is not enough to make true heavy cream out of supermarket swill--"silk purse from a sow's ear" and all that. BUT, you can add butterfat, a la Rose. It worked for me. Fern

I have promised to make a festive cake for a special occasion this Saturday. Since my time is very limited, I need to stick with basic recipes that I know I can handle, but I can't seem to make up my mind about the flavor combo. I will use chocolate chiffon cake layers, probably three or four layers in all, so have room for two or three layers of filling, plus frosting. I want to use ganache for some of it. I can also handle some kind of simple mousse-like filling. Frosting could be flavored whipped cream, whipped ganache or maybe buttercream, since the weather here has taken a merciful turn to the cooler side. I have been thinking about chocolate and orange, chocolate and coffee, chocolate and caramel, etc. I thought about chocolate and orange and coffee, but I'm not at all sure about that. I imagine chocolate and orange and caramel could work, yes? Please make me some suggestions if you have inspirations for flavor/filling/frosting schemes. Many thanks, Fern

Has anyone else commented on the olive question? I have seen whitish specks on the olives that I have taken for salt crystallizing on the surface. I think it looks unappetizing to put them in a bowl that way, but it disappears with a quick rinse. Fern

Multiply your recipes by 10? Good luck! ← Or by 16 if you're not metric. One of my favorite tricks! Marjorie ← As in, the quantities in ounces become pounds? That is a nice trick (which, as a home baker, I'll never use, but I appreciate the elegance of the math!).

Does the type of oil affect the quality of the emulsion? It was a big revelation to me recently when I learned (via eCGI or H McGee, I'm not sure which) that extra-virgin olive oil is NOT best for mayonnaise, because the chemistry of it makes the mayo break more easily than a more refined oil. Is this a significant effect in vinaigrette, as well? Fern

I find that if you cook raspberry puree down, the delicate flavor tends to dissipate rather than concentrate. Getting an intense flavor out of raspberries is tricky business. One trick that I do is to add a very tiny amount of lemon juice. Not enough to be noticed as lemon, though. It helps to give the raspberries a little oomph/brightness. ← I use the RL Beranbaum method (Cake Bible). Essentially, you thaw frozen raspberries in a strainer and press gently so that only clear juice is collected. This is boiled down to a concentrated syrup and then added back to the pureed pulp. If you don't cook the pulp, you get an intensely fruity puree, without that cooked, jammy flavor. Extra labor, but a good result and I freeze it successfully for months. Now I'm thinking about the container I noticed in my freezer last week... there may be raspberry ganache in my future. Edited to add: Your chocolates look amazing, Mette! Fern

One of the things I particularly like about Great Cookies by Carole Walter is that she flags each recipe with several little comments about its characteristics, like "freezes well", "festive", or "travels well". If you have access to the book, it is a wonderful resource.

I'm just speculating based on general biology knowledge but, since iodine is a necessary nutrient for humans, I suspect it is necessary for other mammals and, therefore, there is probably enough in cow's milk to meet the needs of calves. Whether that is enough to be too much for your husband's situation I have no idea. As you have suggested, there may be other sources of added iodine in commercial dairy products. Just thinking about it... Fern

Another nuance here is the context of the "complaint". The owner solicited Randi's feedback, and she gave it. I can't speak for her, but I doubt I would have called over the management to complain about mediocre crabcakes, but I do think I would have offered my criticism when the owner asked how dinner was, which is what she did. As Randi pointed out, it is a new business; it is reasonable to think that they are genuinely interested in customer feedback. Fern

We have a local Italian market that has a cheese-making business in the back. They sell their own butter and I buy the salted version for toast. I have not tried baking with their butter because I wonder whether it might differ significantly in fat/water content from what I am used to. I occasionally notice droplets of water in the butter and, at refrigerator temperature, it is significantly softer and smoother than LOL or Stop & Shop label. Does anyone know if the texture is an indication of the moisture content? Or are there mysterious properties of butterfat (like the different forms of cocoa butter crystals) that affect its firmness? I think I have already read the butter section in the new edition of McGee and I didn't pick up anything about this. I guess I should take Wolfert's advice and try a clarification-comparison! Thanks, Fern

I hoped someone would say that! And yeah, patina, "character," that's all fine with me-that's one reason I think it will fit in with the house-but visible stains and scratches are not okay. I will try to get some samples. ← Soapstone is not at all porous and it will not stain, period. It is not very hard and it definitely will scratch. All the scratches can be managed with simple care by the consumer, but it is a very different material from polished granite. There are somewhat different soapstones from different quarries and different countries. Some are softer than others but none are as hard as most granites. I got my soapstone from these people: M. Teixeira. They had a lot of information on their website (which appears to have been renovated since then) and were quite helpful on the phone and in person when I had questions or problems. (The problems were caused by my ex-general contractor, not by the soapstone.) When I was working on this a few years ago soapstone was not readily available in some areas. Teixeira will surely arrange to ship anywhere you want, but the cost may be unreasonable if you are far from NJ and don't have a source/importer in your region. Good luck in your research. I thought it was exciting but eventually exhausting and I'm very glad it's all done and behind me. Fern Edited for spelling

jgarner53, Knowing that you're a pastry person (I've been enjoying your blog, thank you) I should add that my soapstone is great for kneading and rolling out various types of dough. I used to have lots of dough anxiety and fussed with different pastry board materials but now I just roll on the counter and find it works best. Experience helps too, of course, but the stone stays cool and its satiny-smooth surface seems to release dough nicely. Fern [edited for clarity]

Countertops I Like Soapstone: impervious to any chemical substance likely to be found in your kitchen (PRO); extremely resistant to heat, I can move a pot directly from burner to counter (PRO); informal look, develops a "patina" (your choice); looks prettiest when dressed with a little mineral oil (no fancy polishes, pro for me); softer than "granites", scratches show until rubbed out with a little oil but can also be polished out with fine sandpaper (con & pro); high-intensity cleaners (people or products) will strip the oil fast in work areas & around sink, leaving color uneven until dressed again (con, if you're into scrubbing); hard, like all stones, I still have mild anxiety about chipping glass items when setting them down, though it hasn't happened (con); high heat capacity cools hot things and thaws frozen things surprisingly fast (usually pro); dark colors, mostly variations on graphite-to-black (your choice, potential con if you don't have good light); relatively easy to fabricate, my counters were done by a carpenter who had never worked with soapstone before and they came out very well indeed I also Like a little Wood: several key physical properties are essentially opposite of soapstone (you can figure them out); it complements the stone nicely Flooring I Like Linoleum (sheet): resilient for feet and falling objects (pro); easy to clean (pro); you can wax/polish if you want, but it is not necessary (pro); seams can be "welded" so there are NO crevices--if you have a family that spills like mine, the idea of wood grain or grout lines to hold all the residue is too yucky I'm talking real linoleum here, not vinyl. Mine is Forbo Marmoleum and I've never seen any heel marks; it is softest when new and does harden some over time.

I think Patrick's and Andie's suggestions are probably on target at this point. It's rather late to think about sutures but, have you had a tetanus booster in the last 5 years or so? When I sliced the tip clean off my pinky a few months ago I put on a bulky pressure dressing as best I could and went back to the stove (dinner party at home). The next day I realized I didn't know just what to do next. Luckily I ran into an orthopedic surgeon friend who gave me advice about how to change the dressing after 48 hrs. (The first change may not be as big a deal for you but I had the gauze dressing firmly embedded in raw flesh at this point and getting it off was almost worse than the original event.) Anyway, after the practical advice he told me that fingertip injuries where the open wound is <1 square centimeter generally do just as well with first aid as they do with sutures at the big medical center, so I felt justified in finishing the short ribs, etc., that night, even though I had to do it with my left hand over my head much of the time to control first the bleeding and then the throbbing. My finger looks almost normal now, just a smidge shorter than its opposite number. So you probably did the most reasonable thing. Get yourself a tube of antibiotic ointment and keep the rest for next time. You don't have to scrub a wound like that, just rinse it out well. But do think about the tetanus shot! Good luck, Fern