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Everything posted by artisanbaker

  1. in this month's food arts magazine (you know the one with the all the gorgeous bread on the cover) features a blurb about moto's edible menus, which are very clever.
  2. i make a good tarte tatin according to many of my colleagues/friends/family so when you come to chicago next time just drop me a line and perhaps we could arrange a tasting.
  3. kind of like a white sugar with a little impurities in it (mainly molasses). it's not like our brown sugar, as it's much more free flowing.
  4. cool pix. thx. the spanish dessert is paco torreblanca's. it's made by blowing into a ring submerged in hot isomalt while pulling up. inside is a savarin. it's extremely difficult to do. he demo'd it last year at his class in chicago.
  5. we ate there last night. The space is nice in charming Western Springs, within walking distance for the Burlington line. The tables were too close together. The white atmosphere was a bit sterile, but the Ansel Adams style framed photos helped a little. There's one table near the bar that may be preferable; it's beside the fireplace. I got the housemade pate which was good although I've had better. Take note if you're reading Vie team: Labelle's catering in La Grange makes the best pate I've had this side of Brest. At $10/ea I think I could have been served more than 2 tiny pieces of beer bread. I only used a quarter of the pate before I started using table bread. Nice micro greens and fruit confit to give some balance. My wife got some bbq'd bacon with picked garlic that was good although not memorable. We were served some housemade bread which was suprisingly good although they can improve (by using mine for example; j/k) We ordered a 2002 Bernard Griffin Merlot which was an outstanding value for $30/bottle. Outstanding. My wife got ribeye with wild mushrooms and mayo whatever. It was served with fresh fries. I tasted it and it was good although my wife insists on well done meat (family tradition) so I couldn't truly enjoy it. I got beef short ribs which were meltingly tender and perfectly done. To contrast the other flavors, there were small radishes that were a very welcome suprise. It was a great winter dish, and to give you an idea about the nature of this dish I think that I could have easily enjoyed a good white wine with it, in spite of the red meat. We had the chocolate cake for dessert, but it was not molten. That was fine with me since I am over the molten thing, and most importantly it was not too sweet. Mint ice cream on top with chards of chocolate in the ice cream. It was perfectly expedited, because the cake was warm and the ice cream was not melting at all. Bravo. I ordered the port option, although it was nowhere near as memorable as the port I last had at moto. We ordered capuccinos at the end, and they were perfect. I used to be a barista and I was impressed by the execution of these drinks. The service was good and very responsive. The music was jazz. And the tables were too close together. (i know i repeated this) This may sound strange and perhaps it is because my background in pastry, but the one detail that stood out was the coco macaroon that we were served as mignardises at the end. It was for me, a perfect coco mac. I want the recipe! It was good and I would return, although there are too many other restuarants that I want to check out. A lot of people are over the seasonal philosophy, favoring the experimental. But in the end it is taste that reigns. 3.5/5
  6. yes perhaps the best hot chocolate is made with lait cru. boil for 10/15 minutes before using though. also, you can boil the milk and let it sit overnight to allow the cream to rise. you can use this on a tartine and i promise you'll have a hard time forgetting it!
  7. i would feel confident saying that in any application the nature (moisture, ferments, etc) of the butter is far more important than the salt content.
  8. "salted and unsalted butters are inherently different; it's not merely a question of the presence of absence of salt" not true. there are simply fermented cream butters and quick process butters, both of which have salted and unsalted versions.
  9. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=32132&hl= here's a link to a previous discussion we had about butter. breton butter "demi sel" can be quite good for various applications, pastry or not. i would not discount it and for the record it can be found stateside at places like whole foods. anyone else try the cabot brand butter? it claims 82%.
  10. vic and bills- knoxville institution (deli) ps. whenever i searched to see if they had a web page this came up... http://ashleyoneal.net/archives/2003_06_01_index.shtml
  11. yes, a kind of nougatine is made frequently in france with sesames that can be quite good.
  12. The bakery where I worked in la Drome (26). Organic type 55 with poolish and baked in wood fired oven. Show up at 12am. It's a bit of a drive from Paris! Boulangerie Jaco'pain Le village 26190 St. Thomas en Royans FRANCE
  13. ok, so non reversible pectin as m. canonne explained to me. http://www.cpkelco.com/pectin/gelling_mechanism.html maybe high ester pectin?
  14. Thank you boulak. The baguette a l'ancienne chez Julien is the second best baguette I have ever eaten. So no word about Meunier?
  15. Thank you for this article. Last I spoke with M. Poujouran, he told me that they were going to expand into the adjacent space. I had no idea that he was going to sell and quite frankly I am floored. It seems that M. Kayser is leading the pack these days although certain key players in the industry lead me to believe that the "position" is still available. From what many of my colleagues believe, Poilane's success was due directly to the marketing success of the product. I can however attest to the quality of their products and the business model is inspiring. Apollonia Poilane has her work cut out for her but a good experience in the States will hopefully enable her to carry her father's torch. I've often considered contacting her to see if she would like to open a place stateside as I am well trained in wood fired oven baking a la Poilane. We'll see. The irony of Kaplan's fame is noteworthy. He knows more about french bread than 95% of the French. We had a long discussion about the Guide on boulangerie.net some months ago. I'll see if I can pull it up.
  16. (Clears throat) Does anyone have an answer to this yet? Inquiring minds would like to know. "Can anyone explain the difference between "regular" and baking jam and the practical reasons why we make the distinction?" What do they do to the jam to make it bakeproof and can one make "artisanal" bakeproof jam?
  17. i just rediscovered this and i will attempt to recover the source but it may take me a few decades. i read much less about cooks than i used to.
  18. i have the new sharp micro/toaster and i am very pleased with it's performance.
  19. i make panettone with a sourdough starter and my results have been popular in the chicago market. it will be more challenging to pull off at home but i used to do stuff like that when i was an amateur. good luck
  20. this is especially desireable at a place like hooters for example
  21. add 7 yolks and temper this mix into 1 liter of very hot milk. bring to boil and boil 2 minutes while whisking vigorously. you will have a thick pastry cream custard. you can flavor with chocolate. you might want to strain if there are lumps. use the whisk to push it through the strainer. the recipe is probably closer to 150g of flour; that's why i say "thick." my pleasure.
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