Merchant House/Hibiscus

[Marlyn4k]

There's an exception to every rule and exceptions are important to advancement.

The consensus of this board (and various other places) would imply a mass fainting were the status of Hibiscus changed negatively in January....

[Gary Marshall]

PS; we also found out that Claire and Claude are of the absolute belief that Gary Marshall is Bapi's manservant.

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*sound of coffee being forceably ejected*

they obviously haven't seen the photo's i have of bapi in his gimp gear then

cheers

gary

[Bapi]

Dinner as previously mentioned at the end of last week. We opted for the surprise menu.

We started with canapés of Cheese puffs and assorted bon bons with cheese and ham, garlic mushroom and black olive fillings. Somehow I missed the black olive one, but Scott seemed to enjoy it!

The following menu is as supplied by Claire at the end of our meal, specially printed and bound into the traditional Hibiscus folder.

Chilled Butternut Squash & Kumquat Soda.

Carpaccio of Scottish scallops, Black Mouli, Autumn truffle and Almond Oil. (as Bapi mentions - SEX ON A PLATE)

Roast Langoustine tails, Parsley root puree, Buckwheat cream, Alba Truffle

Poached Cod, Fennel puree, Salad of fennel and limequat, Parmesan and Truffle Cream.

John Dory braised in coffee and cardamon, Spiced quince, Buttered savoy cabbage.

Veal sweetbreads, Chestnut crust, Chestnut and caper sauce, Smoked butter. (MORE SEX)

Savoury ice cream of Foie gras, Warm emulsion of brioche, Balsamic caramel.

Roast Ludlow hare, Smoked Chocolate, Chervil Root, Butternut squash. (This dish is not on the menu, and was only served to us.)

Plate of English cheese, Beetroot, orange and shallot chutney.

Bramley apple puree, Sweet celeriac jelly, Chestnut cream.

Petit pot of burnt milk, Warm banana yoghurt, Jesuit biscuit.

Meal started at 8.00 and we were last to leave at around 1.30, only after Claude had thoroughly examined our photos from Anthony’s and Barcelona.

A wonderful evening with perfect service.

PS; we also found out that Claire and Claude are of the absolute belief that Gary Marshall is Bapi's manservant.

PPS; Bapi did not leave us any champagne credits from the week before.

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Marvellous - it's official Gary is my "beeeeatttch". I never had a puppy as a child, so maybe this will make up for it.

Sam- sorry about that, rest assured there'll be glass of champagne for you and a half of mild for your other half next time. BTW what a lucky girl you are - Dining at Hibiscus, eating that Sex like Scallop dish and to top it all, getting to gaze adoringly at Scott as he falls asleep on the table.

Bit stressed out at work and we are also moving house tomorrow - so will post more details re food and wine next week.

Gary can you get yourself down to London tomorrow please? Rosie will require a footstool to rest upon after the move.

[Gary Marshall]

Gary can you get yourself down to London tomorrow please? Rosie will require a footstool to rest upon after the move. 

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do you want those pictures on the net? do you?!

[Scott]

Guys,

I don't post so much any more, foolishly working and doing a masters part time is killing me. However I have just read through this thread, and as always, have 2 ence to share.

I think Pweaver has every damned right to express their opinion without people questioning his/her motives. I do not accept, that these critics of the critic, would be so righteous if it were just any other restaurant. Who cares what the other side of the story is, the customer is always right. I was at Gordon Ramsay about 3 weeks ago, and some very loud american ladies took exception to the no cash rule, and paid in cash requiring 8 pounds change. The waiter rushed off to the tesco, changed it, came back, but apparently took too long so this lovely and even tempered upper east side madam's proceeded to rant like there was no tomorrow.

of course the restaurant apologised, they left, and whilst many eyebrows were raised around the room, that was it.

Confronting customers is not on. end of story. if they upset you so much, refund their money and throw them out - invalidate their custom. However, all I can see here is someone expressing an opinion, and patronising sneering towards someone who dared not be happy with their experience.

Where does this end, when the way we respond is to so brazenly question their motivations?

From what I can glean our intrepid travellers are relatively young, so they are starting on the back foot anyway. I see the potential for this being an issue of stereotyping, I wonder if this table had been full of rotund, middle 50's bankers, whether any comments or attitudes from the table would have been met by the same short shrift.

Maybe I am barking up on the wrong tree, but is egullet developing a culture of group speak and dominant norms that may not be deviated from , unless by those accepted participants???

fuck it, I am going off to trash St John some more.

[Gary Marshall]

i'm all for free speech on the boards, i don't think anyone is suggesting otherwise.

i think the difference is in this case is that it is just so out of character for this story to emanate from hibiscus, and that anyone who knows it feels there must have been provocation on 'p weavers' part, as i said initially, even if they weren't aware of their comments.

you don't build an acclaimed 2 star restaurant with long waiting lists by randomly attacking customers for no reason, however young.

i can see how you may read into it that trashing some places are taboo because lots of established members like them but that's not the issue here. There have been negative reviews of places like the fat duck, foliage and putney bridge that have elicited reasoned debate from their supporters/detractors, not finger pointing and stupid playground i hope they lose their star type comments.

cheers

gary

ps go ahead and trash st john's, overhyped on my experience , and i'll have another go at why anthony's is a million times better than the fat duck part 87!

[Scott]

i'm all for free speech on the boards, i don't think anyone is suggesting otherwise.

i think the difference is in this case is that it is just so out of character for this story to emanate from hibiscus, and that anyone who knows it feels there must have been provocation on 'p weavers' part, as i said initially, even if they weren't aware of their comments.

you don't build an acclaimed 2 star restaurant with long waiting lists by randomly attacking customers for no reason, however young.

i can see how you may read into it that trashing some places are taboo because lots of established members like them but that's not the issue here. There have been negative reviews of places like the fat duck, foliage and putney bridge that have elicited reasoned debate from their supporters/detractors, not finger pointing and stupid playground i hope they lose their star type comments.

cheers

gary

ps go ahead and trash st john's, overhyped on my experience  , and i'll have another go at why anthony's is a million times better than the fat duck part 87!

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lol cheers Garry.

I see a key element however being that the guy is 20, you just do not know how a serious place like this will respond to someone like that. Are small things magnified, taken the wrong way, because ultimately you don't think they should be there?

I can't see many reasons for the exchange that took place, to take place.

I would not expect, nor tolerate such treatment, but you or I probably wouldn't be subject to it either. at least that's my feeling.

now where is that St John thread..?

[BertieWooster]

I have to agree with Scott on this one. There was a definitie ganging up on Mr Weaver, and Bapi's comments to him were arrogant, vindictive, and bullying.

No one thinks that PWeaver was making the whole thing up--even Andy admitted there was SOME basis for the comments, but suggested the situation had been provoked. The original post did not come across as a deliberate attempt to smear (I've been involved in online flame wars for nearly 20 years and it had none of the ring of those), rather it came across as someone hurt, bewildered, confused and slightly embarassed, and that embarassment was made worse by being roundly condemned by some of the regulars here.

Perhaps there was some 'provocation' in the form of whispering or whatever, but frankly there's also a responsibility on the restaurant to deal with that as early as possible and in a civilised manner. To react even with a tenth of the venom as was suggested (and a tenth seems the minimum we can believe) was totally unprofessional. Those of us with short tempers would probably react differently to Mr Weaver.

As to not posting the complaint in the first place, I'm a little bewildered. This is a beloved restaurant universally praised. That doesn't make it above criticism. I'm sure if something similar happened at Anthony's I'd be rather more shocked, but a report should still be posted, if only to allow future visitors to report on how they found the place.

This mindless springing to the defence without evidence except the belief that 'they wouldn't act like that' is all a bit, well, irrational.

[wgallois]

I'm with Scott on this. It's patronising at best to question people's motivations for posting, and this board would be a duller place if there were not a plurality of views about even the most highly-rated restaurants.

I also find it invidious that Pweaver has been asked to provide "the whole story" of his meal at Hibiscus if he wishes to be viewed as a reliable source. Surely the point of restaurant reviews - as has been discussed many times here - is that they are subjective accounts of individuals' experiences. Readers of reviews know this when they look at them.

[oldschooltie]

Where does this end, when the way we respond is to so brazenly question their motivations? 

.....but is egullet developing a culture of group speak and dominant norms that may not be deviated from , unless by those accepted participants??? 

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take care - they know where you live

[SamanthaF]

why anthony's is a million times better than the fat duck part 87!

'Cos it pisses all over it

[seanw]

I can understand that we can be defensive about restaurants that have provided positive memorable experiences & of course the converse can also be true. I enjoyed a fantastic meal at Hibiscus in their early days, however perhaps as part of the territory of climbing the ladder follows increasing levels of expectation; i.e. pressure, which i am sure Claude & Claire understand & utilize in their sober moments to be self critical, an essential quality. Of course bad experiences can be motivated, or just bad experiences but it seems that PWeaver in this instance provided his side of the story as he saw it, really has egullet become such a monster to believe that it can affect the hearts & minds of the restaurant going population, or is it understandable defensiveness. It really was a shame that we have lost the insight & input of such contributors as gingerchef & maybe we are losing the insight of floaters out there! On the other hand, it is the lot of restaurants to stir the emotions both negative & positive. After moving to Canada i really miss the debate(qualified by experience & understanding) that can help move things forward, but it is moving that way, just that we are further behind unfortunately.

cheers sean

[Andy Lynes]

Guys,

Where does this end, when the way we respond is to so brazenly question their motivations? 

Maybe I am barking up on the wrong tree, but is egullet developing a culture of group speak and dominant norms that may not be deviated from , unless by those accepted participants??? 

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I'd reiterate yet again that there is no attempt here to deter people from posting negative reports that are contrary to the general consensus. Pweaver and any other member was and is free to post as they please as long as they adhere to the user agreement and associated policies.

As to not posting the complaint in the first place, I'm a little bewildered.

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eGullet is not a consumer organisation, we are not a restaurant mediation service and we don't handle complaints. Tell us about your restaurant experiences bad and good, but address all complaints directly to the establishment concerned.

I'm with Scott on this. It's patronising at best to question people's motivations for posting, and this board would be a duller place if there were not a plurality of views about even the most highly-rated restaurants. 

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We want a plurality of views, and we want reasoned debate. Members should feel free to post their views, and to have them challenged.

It really was a shame that we have lost the insight & input of such contributors as gingerchef

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Really? I'm sure that this will be news to gingerchef! I think he's just keeping his head down for a bit. I'll see if I can get him to say hello and let us know what he's up to.

Finally, I'd like to say that I have contacted Pweaver directly and there is no bad blood between us. Although I have been involved in eGullet from thre word go, I'm far from being the perfect forum host. Its a continual learning experience and I have learnt lessons from this thread. I'd like to thank everyone for their considered and intelligent contributions to this debate (not too sure about SamF's last post though!) which has run its course and is now closed. Thanks.

[BertieWooster]

On another point then, have we heard of a definite sale date for the Merchant House yet?

[pim]

I have to agree with Scott on this one. There was a definitie ganging up on Mr Weaver, and Bapi's comments to him were arrogant, vindictive, and bullying.

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Bapi, a bully?

That boy couldn't even put up a fight with a wisp of a girl like me over lambchops!

[Bapi]

I have to agree with Scott on this one. There was a definitie ganging up on Mr Weaver, and Bapi's comments to him were arrogant, vindictive, and bullying.

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Bapi, a bully?

That boy couldn't even put up a fight with a wisp of a girl like me over lambchops!

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Ah well Pim, that's because you were devouring New Tayyab Lamb Chops like the Warner Bros Tasmanian Devil. Frankly, I would have feared for my arms being gnawed off, if I were to have leant over you to grab one. (Thanks for the reminder though- just had NT trip yesterday!)

Back to Hibiscus. We had originally lined up a series of meals at Hibiscus and the Merchant House during a weeks holiday back in September. Unfortunately, due to the untimely passing of my Dad, that trip was cut short - but bless her, Rosie managed to slot us back in for three meals at Hibiscus in early November. Did however manage one meal in September- and had my first taste of grouse which was fabulous. Wonderful depth of flavour that I just wasn't expecting.

So to the first our three successive meals, which we had decided would be a la carte. We were warmly greeted by Claire Bosi and team and shown straight through to our table. For those of you who have dined there in the past, but not too recently, the former bar area has been very successfully transformed into an additional dining area with banquette seating.(Ideal for small parties- hint to wife ) .

Started with a delicious Kir Royale and a tomato juice for the pregnant wife. Usual suspects of cheese gougeres and savoury croquettes arrived and then a butternut squash soda as an amuse. I had previously left highly subtle hints as to my desire to have langoustines during one of my meals and was delighted to see that they were on the menu as a first course option. Sautéed Scottish Langoustine Tails, Buckwheat Cream, Parsley Root Puree, Shavings of White Alba Truffle. This was always going to be my choice, especially so, as the woman next to me had the dish and made "When Harry Met Sally" noises after every mouthful. They were beautifully cooked - just the right side of translucent and offset fabulously by the vibrant puree and buckwheat cream. Rosie went for the Roast Veal Sweetbreads with a Chestnut Crust, Chestnut and Caper Sauce, Smoked Butter. Didn't get to try this (greedy mare). Moreish and nutty, I think she said.

I then went for the Suckling Pig ( in two services)- Roast Bridgnorth Suckling Pig, Fricassee of Root Vegetables, Roast Salsify Puree and then the Belly, served Crispy, Salad of Autumn Leaves, Autumn Truffle Mash. Bugger me - this was amazing. The meat was so tender and was enclosed by a thick layer of fat, which moistened the meat; this in turn was covered by really exquisite crackling. A stunning dish which was followed by the second service of a piece of the belly and the a small dollop of the fabulous Autumn truffle mash. I had the mash back in September with the grouse dish I mentioned above. It was so delicious that I requested that Paul Bell and his missus, who were dining at the same time as us back then, could have some as well. A fabulous dish and well worth the supplement charged. Claire also explained that it was actually a sideline for a local Dentist( I think) - who raises the pigs in his spare time. Damm fine job he is doing as well.

R had the Freshwater Eel Poached in Truffle Jus, Crispy Pork Belly, Confit Pineapple, Fondant Potato Froth of Coconut milk. I had a small piece of this dish and having had a similar dish at Hibiscus last year- I think it has been very much improved by the eel being poached in truffle jus. The already flavoursome eel being given an additional earthy richness by the poaching liquor.

To finish I had the Lychee Pannacotta, Rosewater Ice Cream, served with a Warm Chocolate Madeline- a very pleasant combination, the ice-cream was especially delicious. Rosie had the Fine tart of Granny Smith Apple, Salted Butter Caramel, Puy Lentil Ice Cream, which was also demolished at record speed. I opted for a glass of wine with each course which were from the now very extensive wine list. Had a brief chat with Claude after the meal who, on seeing Rosie's state said, " oh, you look beautiful". Cue- puce, fawning missus. Bloody Gallic charm- I'll have to get me some of that. A very nice evening - although Claire's offer of two different flavoured Grappa's did rather nobble me at the end. Part two - was a Degustation menu the following night- which I'll write up shortly.

[Pweaver1984]

Well its an End of an Era!

Did anyone manage to get into to Merchant House on its last service, Feb 28th?

What was the atmosphere like? i expect it was like every other one......

Just really glad I made it there, a one off for sure.

Paul

[Bapi]

Sadly we didn't make it back in time to dine at the Merchant House before it closed. Although I know that Paul Bell ate there a couple of weeks before it closed.

We are back at Hibiscus in a couple of weeks, who have been very accommodating about taking our 3 month old along for lunch or dinner. I'll be sure to give them your regards.

Edited March 4, 2005 by Bapi (log)

[Pweaver1984]

Hope your little one doesn't make too much noise!!

[Bapi]

Don't worry- he is quite well behaved.

[Andy Lynes]

Well its an End of an Era!

Did anyone manage to get into to Merchant House on its last service, Feb 28th?

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Unfortunately not. This news caught me unawares as I was expecting Shaun to shut up shop in March. I spoke to Shaun a week or so ago and he told me that he decided to close early once it became obvious there was no prospect of selling the business on or of being able to find new premises while still operating the restaurant. Apparently the last service was business as usual with just those who had booked in attendance.

Shaun still has plans to open a new restaurant and will move out of Ludlow, but it looks as though that won't happen as quickly as expected. In the meantime he has started work on a new book.

I understand that its not beyond the realms of possibility that there may be a one-off opportunity to eat Shaun's food again in the not too distant future. I should say that this has nothing to do with eGullet and is nothing more substantial than a vague rumour at the moment, but it would be great if it came off.

[Bapi]

Just returned from a few relaxing days in Ludlow. We had a brief chat and a glass with Shaun, who seemed very content that things had now wound down at the Merchant House. In my opinion, why shouldn't he when you consider what he and Anja managed to achieve in a modest place, over 10 years, in a small Shropshire town. The fact that he leaves Ludlow at the top of his game is a testament to his talent and in view of the fact that he knows he has achieved all he can there- his timing. A loss to Ludlow, but he'll be back; without a doubt. A top bloke.

We also managed the wholly unenviable chore of lunching at Hibiscus twice this week. A real burden One a la carte meal which for me included Milk fed Paulliac lamb in two services. The first of which was Spring personified on a plate. A knockout dish.

Also managed the full Degustation at lunch which was yet again excellent, although with a squigly three-month old in tow, a little testing at times.

More details of what we had later.

[Bapi]

Last Wednesday was the first time in my life, I have pitched up to a meal knackered. Why so? Because I spent aeons yomping about Ludlow's streets, pushing a buggy around trying to get the squawking infant off to sleep. But it was worth it, as it worked a treat and we therefore enjoyed a peaceful meal and very pleasant lunch at Hibiscus.

We arrived about 12.30pm and what thirst I had developed was quickly quenched by a comped glass of champagne, accompanied by cheese gougeres. (No croquettes on offer at Lunch). This was followed by an amuse of carrot foam sitting atop of an apple soda. Extremely refreshing, but the carrot flavour didn't pack any real oomph for me. We decided to go for the a la carte instead of the reasonably priced set lunch. The choice of a first course was a tricky one for me this time round. I make no bones about the fact that I love the way that Claude Bosi cooks langoustines and his dish of Pan Fried Scottish langoustines Tails, Iced Vin Jaune, Spring Leek& Liquorice Puree, Veloute of Potato and Hazelnut, at a £7 supplement would almost certainly have been my choice. But I saw this little beauty on the menu : Duo of Cornish Razor Clams stuffed with Chicken Kidney & Gingerbread Butter, Creamy Veloute of White Onion & Menton Lemon. It sounded intriguing so I had to have it. It was served within a split razor clam shell which had been charred slightly by being under a grill, this added to the both the presentation and the aroma of the dish. Within this sat small bite size pieces of the clam inside of which was the kidney and gingerbread. I didn't really detect the latter in any tangible form - it seemed to be more of a trace, the kidney being more prevalent, but not overpowering. In amongst the clam and kidney were little shards of preserved lemon zest, which again lifted the dish and worked well with the creamy veloute, which contained Mentom Lemon. This was served in tumbler, and contents of which I admit, I didn't know what to do with. Should I pour it over the creation before me or simply sip it after each mouthful? It transpired, that it was the latter. The flavour of the sweet, succulent clam worked well with the offal, when followed by a hit of the silky veloute. Fabulous stuff. Rosie opted for Ravioli of Roscoff Onion Confit, Cumin and Date, Date Consommé, Argan Oil. Five small ravioli, filled with the sweetest of confited onion, which married perfectly with the superbly delicate date consommé. The best derivation of this dish I have tasted so far.

For the main courses Rosie had the Roast Corn Fed Pigeon, Royale of Jerusalem Artichoke & Lemon, Roast Baby Artichoke, Fudge Sauce, Gaufrette Potatoes. Eclectic ingredients and perfectly pink pigeon combined well in the small mouthful I was offered. I went for Milk Fed Paulliac Lamb in two services at a £10 supplement.

First served grilled, Morecambe bay Cockles in Salted Butter, Garlic and Lemon Puree.

Then, a Traditional Cold Moussaka, Confit of Provencal Tomatoes, Parsley and Mint Salad.

The first course was just sensational, and it personified Spring on a plate. Small grilled racks of lamb, with wonderful crispy skin. The lamb itself was very pale in colour, almost like veal- which we learnt at the Waterside Inn, is because the lamb is despatched at a very young age. Despite, it not being terribly pink it was packed full of flavour and the sweet meat worked very well with the slightly salty cockles. Accompanying these and dotted randomly around the plate were the freshest of peas, small carrots and broad beans, interspersed with little swirls of the puree. Again the little hint of lemon brought a just a gentle nudge of acidity, to the plate which balanced the other flavours. A few moments later I was offered the second service a small tranche of the Moussaka. Served cold, the meat was still very sweet and worked well with the aubergine and the sweet tomatoes. Very nice indeed - but not a patch on the first course, which I could have eaten for breakfast lunch and dinner. All of the above was enjoyed with a half bottle of Pomerol from the well priced list, which was £30.

For desserts we opted for the Assiette of desserts (for the whole table). We expected this to be a miniature version of the other desserts on offer, but we were presented with mini bespoke creations to be eaten in order. My memory fails me here and I am afraid I didn't take notes. What I do remember is that I wished there was some chocolate in amongst the foams and puddings. I think there was a fennel crème brulee- may sound odd - but it was very delicate and flavoursome. The one dish I do remember, was a green (avocado) tapioca pudding which had a very sour foam above it. I am afraid this is the only dish I have had at Hibiscus which I have not really enjoyed. But, as I have must have had about 12 meals and countless courses over the last three years - I can live with that sort of hit/miss ratio.

The a la carte menu is currently £42.50, and with a glass of Gewürztraminer, the half of Pomerol, water and teas to finish, we spent about £130, which was excellent value for this level of assured cooking.

We both commented on how we thought food seemed to be hitting all the right notes time and time again (bar the minor aberration above). Unusual ingredients are matched perfectly with subtlety and without the need for each of the elements to clamour for recognition. Most would agree and despite certain individuals writing disparaging letters to some guides about them, they have recently been awarded the Restaurant of the year accolade by the new Egon Ronay guide. A very enjoyable afternoon and bless them - they also made a fuss of our little 'un, especially Claude, which is not that surprising as Claire is expecting their first baby in July.

[Bapi]

Anybody off to the Ludlow Food Festival next weekend?

Heading down to Ludlow tomorrow, for a weeks holiday. Bloody well hope the weather is better than it has been this last week. Just possibly may well find myself at Hibiscus at some point

[Gary Marshall]

Anybody off to the  Ludlow Food Festival next weekend?

Heading down to Ludlow tomorrow, for a weeks holiday. Bloody well hope the weather is better than it has been this last week. Just possibly may well find myself at Hibiscus at some point 

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if my cunning plan comes off so might i