Marlyn4k

Robert Thompson and his brigade left Waldo's at Cliveden House a couple of weeks ago. The restaurant has closed for a couple of weeks and an announcement regarding the next chef is expected any time soon... Any news on who is taking over and where Robert has gone?

The only link I put in was to the article in caterer which was removed.....

After a front page splash in Restaurant Magazine and this comprehensive spread in caterer, has anyone been to Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex's new restaurant? My understanding is that the daily set lunch for £30 is not written down anywhere but offered from the front of house memory each day (which is just a little different for a top end restaurant). I'm not clear what the dinner menu arrangement is - 3 courses for £65 or choosing from an individually priced a la carte each evening? Any reports?

just renewed my membership to egullet...Michelin 2007 - press release with all the stars and espoirs either jan 23 or jan 24 on www.michelin.co.uk No idea who'll get new entries, promoted or demoted. I guess arbutus and vineyard but otherwise? I'd also imagine any promotions to the ** or *** would go through the espoir stage first? Looking forward to it...as always.

I was at the awards, they rattled through all of them in less than half an hour, was sad that The Waterside didn't win best front of house - saw Diego Masciaga and Silvano Giraldin sitting together, one place away from Gordon. The invitation said lounge suits...why bother...about 1/2 ignored, including winners. Had a most satisfying dinner at L'Ortolan (yes, got there by 8.10pm from Olympia) afterwards, although the extent of the freebee drinks had taken their toll.

In the UK was it Steve Smith, 23, JC protege who then went to Melbourne? I'll have a google...had a google (edit)...didn't say...but when I met him at the sofitel in 2001 he claimed he was...

Nigel Platts-Martin has yet another winner in his stable. I'll definately be going back for more - £39.50 is excellent value. I can't write up the experience as I was made bleary eyed by the Bresse Pigeon - not 'moiresque' emotion but through sheer richness. Indeed that effortlessly rich and belied sophistication of the 2 star trademark was evident in abundance. I'm not one to judge but my punt is 1/7/3 within 12 months, then upward and onward to wherever they wish to go guide wise. London's newcomer of the year - and not just this year!

Yes I've had that too...but have forgone an upgrade on the wine for Thursday by sponsoring your good cause £20.....all the best....with no intention to curry favour I might add....speaking of curry, went to Vineet Bhatia the other week and thought it were trop cher.

This looks very exciting...have booked for next Thursday evening. Last night, La Trompette (under James Bennington - thanks Andy) was at least as impressive as the old regime - the warm paysanne salad and veal cheek were good picks - the cdb has gone thrice cooked chips.

Really enjoyed LG the other week - great value (and substantial) set lunch. The new table layout that includes the old downstairs bar was more spacious than the previous lunch time 'pack 'em in' arrangements. The food and service too were back to their best and the 'club' style atmosphere had returned. (I'd had two consecutive disappointments) Good ole LG, I'm a big Roux family fan so its especially satisfying to once again have such a positive experience. PS The identical twin Chef de Rang ladies were particularly friendly and efficient.

Went for lunch yesterday, party of 5, tried the set, the carte and two times a vegetarian menu. Superb throughout. As ever, well worth the trip. Just published interview with David E-M here Chris..originally borrowed your BPlus award piccy

JC will be the chef for part 2 according to press reports...ideal, he can teach the celebs how to look good while taking a restaurant bankrupt.... just kidding, I'm sure he'll swear alot too. On another bit of news...Daniel Galmiche is taking over from Mark Dodson (of Waterside Head Chef fame) at Cliveden. Daniel is formerly of michelin starred L'Ortolan and signed up to 'celebrity chefs UK' booking agency - you can view their array of household names here

My favourite winter dish is Pig's Trotter Pierre Koffman...the Marco interpretation with Morels and sweetbreads..."if it were art it would hang in the tate"... £19.50 at Mirabelle (if you can put up with the service) I think Oysters are something you should eat before you die even though I can't stand them. The perfect, richest, chocolate fondant with a glass of d'yquem... Although Paul Burrell may have a different perspective on this list Yeah, agree about X-Factor, G4 really talented, was good television though. They could have a celebrity chef XXXX-Factor: Gordon Ramsay "What XXXXin bollocks, you XXXXin Judges wouldn't last 5 XXXXin minutes in my XXXXin kitchen, utter Bollocks". Simon Cowell "hmmm, good use of the bollock". Next XXXX contestant Tom Aikens... "You XXXXers stole one of my XXXXin spoons, you deserve a XXXXin branding with a hot XXXXin knife". Sharon Osbourne "He's so XXXXin cute".

Tarka...the whole (eating experience) is the sum of many parts (more than previously considered) where the end result is greater than the sum of the parts. Definition here

Alex...couldn't agree with you more. Dirk...I've eaten there many times (well 8). I think the food is fascinating (see also above footnote). What is 'pioneering' is the concept, passion and direction which, in time, will deliver defining results. The research grant is just a first step. The fact that a food product may be made into a froth, jelly, sorbet or ice-cream by using a clever gadget does not appeal to me - and you get some of that at The Fat Duck (have not been to Anthony's). The concept of salmon and liquorice having a chemical match which when executed properly delivers a 'higher' sensation does appeal. Likewise the cooking method to optimise taste and texture or the neurological impact of beetroot and orange jellies having reverse colours. In the latter case it is not a question of whether that offering works for me, but more the neurological concept behind it being researched in Heston's lab with a dedicated passion.

Very interesting! My summary understanding is that there are two strands to what has been called "Molecular Gastronomy" and these have resulted from advancement in the scientific understanding of food. There is a third strand which when combined with the first two, might aptly be termed "Holism". 1) Physics: The composition of an ingredient will determine the cooking method to achieve optimum taste and texture. For example, the proteins in meat coil at higher temperatures and squeeze out the juice which dries the meat, at the same time 'flavour molecules' burst and reduces the flavour of the end product, hence long slow cooking at low temparatures of certain ingredients will produce optimum results. 2) Chemistry: Why do some ingredients combine better than others? It has been discovered that at a certain level they share similar chemical characteristics. For example, white chocolate and caviar share enough similar amino acids to define a natural combination - indeed Heston loves this matching. There exists a repeatable chemical test across ingredients, hence an array of unconventional but enjoyable matchings are open to development. 3) Neurology: The eating "experience" (the chemicals and neurotransmitters triggered in the brain to create pleasure) are in fact influenced by ALL our senses -smell, sight, taste, texture (touch) and sound. The idea of taste/texture combinations creating a superior eating experience is long known but has been little understood. Heston's research grant and laboratory are geared to taking this several steps further by exploring how the senses can be best engaged to produce the most desirable neurological impact. For example, eating certain ingredients with headphones or combining an ingredient cooked on the plate with a separate smell and so on. To me it is the collection of these three elements - "Holism" - that set Heston apart as world's greatest pioneering chef. My firm belief is that he is capable of etching a page in history with his work; a page that will prove so much more that a culinary phase or fashion. The real value from his research is still a little way off....but it will come. Footnote: The likes of sardines on toast sorbet have represented a confusion in this area (previously to me and I'm sure to others). There is no chemical basis for this match, it is a dish that represents 'what I can do with a PacoJet' - something which a number of restaurants experiment with. Heston has other 'new fangled' gadgets that produce "different" end products. These are neither 'molecular' nor 'holistic' but have grabbed media column inches and may have hampered appreciation/understanding of this branch of the culinary art. I would much sooner see a tasting menu that exclusively reflected "holism".

The ViaMichelin website claim 7.5 million visitors per month. The whole of the European Michelin Guide has been available free-to-access online for a long time. I've noticed that the performance of the site has significantly improved over the last year and along side each restaurant entry (which is the full Michelin guide entry plus map) there is a 'my opinion' tab. Providing feedback to them has never been easier - those sad little envelopes that fell out of the book are a thing of the past. If would be nice if Which? followed suit rather than requiring the full subscription to Which? Online for access. I'd be amazed (and disappointed) if resources on the internet didn't form part of their research....

It's a big year for Michelin...the publication of the UK pub guide must have taken alot of resourse, the Michelin web site says that the food was reviewed by the same inspectors as the red guide. With a change in GM (European) and the difficult times caused by the former inspector there maybe some surprises in 2005. I believe that a couple of european countries already have their 2005 edition published - any feedback from them? Personally, their lack of transparency is a benefit - its their recipe and its a secret - and whatever their faults, the award of stars still means more to chefs than any other accolade.

I hear that The Fat Duck have launched a new/revised degustation menu - yet to appear on their website. Have not checked though so may be based on a mis-understanding ??? Also on the gossip front....Jean-Luc Naret (Head of Michelin) alledgedly visited the Fat Duck last week...Heston was in....

A new magazine called "foodie" is being launched in the spring. A pre-launch edition is available on pdf here The editor - Alison Evison (veggie) is food critic of the Birmingham Post and runs www.eat-the-midlands.com

Went to Foliage for dinner last night....packed to the rafters. Lots of new faces in front-of-house (Paul Noll still there). If you've got the stomach for winter richness then the fillet of beef with raviolo of Oxtail is a must. Won't litter the page with positive hyperboles as I'm biased... I'd love to know how many inspections the GFG made this year; in fact how many inspectors in general the GFG have had in 2004; IMO some of the descriptions for 2005 are less compelling in their research (although maybe with the progress of the internet and the amount of data available expectations have gone up too much). They'd never say of course but a dialogue would be interesting.... 020 7770 7564 Ring ring, ring ring, ring ring....hello, is that Sojourner Jones? Requesting an interview with Mr Turvil for eGullet... Go on Andy...good marketing opp for them and for eGullet

There's an exception to every rule and exceptions are important to advancement. The consensus of this board (and various other places) would imply a mass fainting were the status of Hibiscus changed negatively in January....

Fantastic! Great write up, great restaurant!

Great article in today's LA Times by David Shaw - going into some depth about the chemistry behind the thinking and so on. Need to register at www.latimes.com and the registration process is a bit of a hassle...but worth it.

Don't judge the restaurant, judge the critic (unless it's Tom Aikens ) It would be unfortunate if the positives about restaurants were devalued by the suppression of the negatives on the forum. I have particular sympathy for those small independent restaurants that are reaching culinary heights - where usually husband and wife, plus a couple of helpers, are forced to work every service that they open, mustering only enough gross profit to make a modest living. Scant reward for their talent. So one naturally feels a pang of sympathy for the restaurant as well as the injured customer. Minus the assumptions and opinions from "I must confess" and cut out some of the earlier negative adjectives and this would read strongly and credibly as very damaging. I do think that a restaurant like Hibiscus deserves a phone call to seek satisfaction. If that resolution were not forthcoming then the report would be more damaging still.