Choose one: Saute or Saucier

[emannths]

I've improvised on too many recipes that include the phrase "choose a pan large enough to accommodate all of the pieces in a single layer," and I'm ready to spend some money to get a good, large saute pan to fix this. Depending on what I'm making, currently I alternate between a Le Creuset dutch oven of about 8.5" and a shallow, nonstick frying pan of about 11.5", only 8" of which is flat. This makes it tough to brown more than say, two chicken legs or pork chops simultaneously.

After reading the eGCI class on stovetop cookware and the associated Q&A, it seems like the best way to go would be an 11" Sitram Catering (or maybe Profiserie) saute pan, available from Amazon for $55. However, Lloyd's (the course instructor) love of what Sitram calls a saucier, also available in an 11" size, got me thinking that perhaps I could get essentially the same saute pan-type utility out of a saucier, as well as getting a pan better shaped to tossing vegetables, substituting for a wok for Chinese cooking, etc.

However, I'm concerned that by trying to solve many problems at once I may be solving none of them. Is the Sitram saucier curved enough that I'd miss the extra area on the bottom of the pan? Would you suggest something else entirely? Also, some other manufacturers make saute pans larger than 11". Is it worth even thinking about these, or is my stove not up to the task?

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Some background: I'm living in a relatively small apartment with an average gas stove. As a result, I'd like to get the most use out of the minimum of equipment. I cook Chinese relatively frequently, but I have been reluctant to buy a wok after reading that most stoves are too weak and that woks tend to hurt rather than help in that case. I am also not opposed to spending some money to buy a nice piece of equipment, under the assumption that it will last me a decade or more.

[Lactic Solar Dust]

I've improvised on too many recipes that include the phrase "choose a pan large enough to accommodate all of the pieces in a single layer," and I'm ready to spend some money to get a good, large saute pan to fix this.  Depending on what I'm making, currently I alternate between a Le Creuset dutch oven of about 8.5" and a shallow, nonstick frying pan of about 11.5", only 8" of which is flat.  This makes it tough to brown more than say, two chicken legs or pork chops simultaneously.

After reading the eGCI class on stovetop cookware and the associated Q&A, it seems like the best way to go would be an 11" Sitram Catering (or maybe Profiserie) saute pan, available from Amazon for $55.  However, Lloyd's (the course instructor) love of what Sitram calls a saucier, also available in an 11" size, got me thinking that perhaps I could get essentially the same saute pan-type utility out of a saucier, as well as getting a pan better shaped to tossing vegetables, substituting for a wok for Chinese cooking, etc.

However, I'm concerned that by trying to solve many problems at once I may be solving none of them.  Is the Sitram saucier curved enough that I'd miss the extra area on the bottom of the pan?  Would you suggest something else entirely?  Also, some other manufacturers make saute pans larger than 11".  Is it worth even thinking about these, or is my stove not up to the task?

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Some background:  I'm living in a relatively small apartment with an average gas stove.  As a result, I'd like to get the most use out of the minimum of equipment.  I cook Chinese relatively frequently, but I have been reluctant to buy a wok after reading that most stoves are too weak and that woks tend to hurt rather than help in that case.  I am also not opposed to spending some money to buy a nice piece of equipment, under the assumption that it will last me a decade or more.

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or you could forget about the concept of cooking food in a pan altogether and try the sous vide method.

[andiesenji]

Have you considered one of these.

I have one, it is one of the older Calphalon anodized aluminum but looks just like this one.

You do not want any pan that is Non-Stick. You simply can't develop the fond that is desirable after searing, browning meats and poultry.

I use this one quite a lot because it is not as heavy as my copper pans, and it is very versatile as it will go into the oven, under the broiler much easier than a fry pan or sauté pan with a long handle.

The lid fits tightly enough that it will retain steam and is deep enough that I can use a round bamboo steamer in it - even though mine has the older type flat lid that is slightly recessed into the pan. this new type slightly domed lid is even better.

For 100.00 bucks, this is a pretty good bargain, but you may be able to find one for less.

Amazon has it for the same price and you can get free shipping.

I also use it for making stew, chili, oven roasted vegetables and when I have several guests, a huge brunch fritatta that uses 2 dozen eggs! Started on the stovetop and finished in the oven.

[GourmetLight$]

Have you considered one of these.

I have one, it is one of the older Calphalon anodized aluminum but looks just like this one.

You do not want any pan that is Non-Stick.  You simply can't develop the fond that is desirable after searing, browning meats and poultry.

I use this one quite a lot because it is not as heavy as my copper pans, and it is very versatile as it will go into the oven, under the broiler much easier than a fry pan or sauté pan with a long handle.

The lid fits tightly enough that it will retain steam and is deep enough that I can use a round bamboo steamer in it - even though mine has the older type flat lid that is slightly recessed into the pan.  this new type slightly domed lid is even better. 

For 100.00 bucks, this is a pretty good bargain, but you may be able to find one for less. 

Amazon has it for the same price and you can get free shipping. 

I also use it for making stew, chili, oven roasted vegetables and when I have several guests, a huge brunch fritatta that uses 2 dozen eggs!  Started on the stovetop and finished in the oven.

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I have that 7qt Calphalon sauteuse and absolutely love it! I just wish I could make huge meals more often so that I could use the pan more often. I actually got it for around $79 on eBay, but $100 is still very good for that pan.

Cheers,

[andiesenji]

I bought several small-to medium sized squash (Hubbard, Kuri, Turban and Calypso) on my way home this afternoon, cut them into chunks and roasted them in that pan, long and slow, I am going to prepare squash soup for a neighborhood party Halloween night and wanted to get started early. Tomorrow I will roast some other vegetables, carrots, parsnips, sweet potatoes (the white kind) and will also roast a pumpkin.

I often use this pan when I have company on the weekends because I can do breakfast for a bunch. It makes the best cottage-fried potatoes - I can shake the pan using one handle or pick it up with both handles and actually toss the potatoes - I can't do that with a big batch of potatoes in any other pan.

I think the last time I used it was for frying pork chops and making gravy after the chops were removed. It produces a beautiful fond.

I use it often because I like to cook enough for a couple of meals and freeze the extras. Saves me a lot of time when I have less time because of my long, long commute.

Edited October 27, 2006 by andiesenji (log)

[bleudauvergne]

emannths, I sympathize. When we first started out, my main pan was the dutch oven and I can tell you now I don't use it daily, mainly because of the sheer mass of the thing. It's deep and heavy. And not much fun. Well, it's fun, but I only use it for stews and ragouts, and break it out when doing large batches of confit or braising a hen. When you're moving fast in the kitchen it can get unwieldy. I recall wrestling with it when preparing a multi step fricasee. When it's full you could pull out your back trying to remove it from the heat. Also, the bottom of the La creuset dutch oven is narrower than you might think. It doesn't go straight down on the inside. The sides get thicker near the bottom and it kind of curves. I would never think of is as able to double as a saute, in any case.

Have you considered one of these.

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Oh man. That is one sexy pan.

It's the shape. This is the kind of pan I have had on my list. It would serve well as a bain marie for the nights when I'm serving oeufs en cocotte as a starter or creme caramel to finish a meal in individual ramekins to multiple guests. I also could use a larger saute. Flat bottom and sides. Good. I wonder how many 3 inch ramekins I could fit in this pan? I am tempted to have this sent to my mother to bring to me on her next visit. Thank you andiesenji for this link.

About the 11", why go so small? It seems pretty small to use for a saute pan. If I were you I'd go with the bigger pan.

[Fat Guy]

You lose some of the flat bottom surface area if you go from a saute pan to a saucier, so you have to go a bit larger on the saucier in order to compensate (although sauciers are usually measured in volume so you may need to measure the bottom diameter yourself). But if it's going to be your primary saute pan then you really do want the curvature where the sides meet the bottom. Sauciers vary greatly in terms of how steep their sides are, and for an all-purpose pan you want the steepest, straightest possible sides in order to maximize the size of the flat bottom. Try also to get a relatively flat handle that goes out straight in the plane -- in other words one that doesn't angle up very much above the lip of the pan -- and isn't comically long. This will make the pan more useful for oven braising and roasting. I'd steer clear of Dutch oven-type designs because you won't have a long handle to grab -- this makes Dutch ovens of limited utility for sauteing.

[andiesenji]

I don't like the deeper pans for browning meats, poultry or for roasting vegetables, because I have found that the higher sides cause a bit of steaming even uncovered. Sometimes I want this and it is advantageous but mostly I prefer the wider, shallower straight-sided pan.

I prefer a smaller diameter saucier and have a favorite copper/SS-lined pan which has the curved sides which allows a whisk to cover the entire bottom for mixing sauces.

This is totally different application and I wouldn't use the saucier for browning chops or chicken pieces. I do use it for browning small pieces of meat or whatever, for inclusion in a sauce, for flavoring, etc.

Your original question referred to needing something that would be wide enough to "accomodate all the pieces in a single layer" which is what I addressed. Incidentally, Amazon has a 5-quart Anolon saute pan, with basically the same shape, domed lid with long handle and helper handle which is oven-proof to 400 degrees, for $80.00.

Here.

I personally do not like the Non-stick Anolon, but this anodized aluminum is pretty much comparable to Calphalon and at less cost. At one time Anolon was mostly sold in sets and the individual pieces were limited in type but in the past two or three years, they have expanded the line of "open-stock."

If you are a Costco member, or know someone who is, check their cookware. They carry a line similar to Calphalon that is a very good buy.

Edited October 27, 2006 by andiesenji (log)