Something to grouse about

[Mimi Sheraton]

This is intended as a heads-up for anyone who loves game birds as much as I do and who knows that Brits have a special way with them.

Pace, animal rights activists while I celebrate this special kind of gourmandise - the arrival of wild red grouse on the New York restaurant scene as sampled last night at Orsay's, the Lexington Avenue reincarnation of Mortimer's.

In the midst of writing about red grouse, a game bird I had years ago at the Connaught Grill in London, I read in the New York Post (Sept. 20th and on-line) that Orsay's was taking advance orders for this lusty, gamey bird, never farm-raised and existing only in the British Isles, most especially in Scotland.

Aha! I thought. A chance to refresh my memories of this uniquely succulent bird.

Idea is that the would-be diner calls the restaurant 5 days to a week in advance and the order is then relayed to a game estate where the birds are shot, hung then flown to the U.S. , which is what I did.

Chef Jason Hicks being a Brit, braised our birds precisely to faintly blood-red

perfection enhancing their primitive, aphrodisiac flavor, soothing it with seasonings of smoky bacon, carrots, celery, parsnips, onions and thyme. Garnishes are chosen by the diner and I ordered the traditional bread sauce, jus, game chips, watercress and a crouton spread with the grouse liver. The cost was $45 per grouse main course and may fluctuate depending upon who knows what.

August 12th marks open season for grouse shooting in Britain and event of much ritual and celebration. Other wild Scottish game promised on the Orsay menu include red-legged partridge, Blue Mountain hare civet and wood pigeon, all of which I intend to try.

[JohnL]

This is truly great news!

One of the great dining experiences in my modest life

was eating a Scottish Woodcock at Nico at Ninety in London

years ago.

You are correct, I believe, to cite the Brits as masters of game

cooking. I intend to avail myself (and friends) of the

offerings at Orsay.

thanks for the heads up/reminder!

[Mimi Sheraton]

And watch out for the buckshot..although the chef does too...the menu will have a disclaimer..more for your bridgework than your innards..Enjoy!

[JohnL]

And watch out for the buckshot..although the chef does too...the menu will have a disclaimer..more for your bridgework than your innards..Enjoy!

←

Buckshot is a wonderful sign!

The only time, I can think of, that finding metal in one's food

is a sign of authenticity!!!

by the way

My understanding is that the "shot glass" we use to

measure/drink spirits evolved from a small glass placed

on the table to deposit buckshot!

[wkl]

i know i am being picky here but, i hope the hunters are using birdshot. buckshot would turn a grouse or woodcock into a pulpy, mushy mess.

it's made of lead, also. steel shot is reserved for waterfowl.

[Mimi Sheraton]

i know i am being picky here but, i hope the hunters are using birdshot. buckshot would turn a grouse or woodcock into a pulpy, mushy mess.

it's made of lead, also. steel shot is reserved for waterfowl.

←

I hope so too now that you mention it...the term did not seem to bother Brit chef and mgr. or me since I did not know the difference until now...

By the way, the printed menu lists the price at $50 not the $45 quoted to me and which I paid.

[Sneakeater]

I once made the scheduling error of hiking through open fields and forest in the North of England on the Glorious Twelvth.

Talk about watching out for buckshot . . . .

(Or birdshot, as I now know it was.)