Dining in the Jewish quarter of Rome

[Betts]

If you found yourself unexpectedly in Rome over the upcoming Jewish holiday - where would you want to eat?

Are there any especially memorable restaurants in this area and/ special dishes for this time of year.

Thanks

[Sneakeater]

Piperno is, IMO, not only the best restaurant in the Ghetto, but one of the best restaurants anywhere.

You'd better reserve immediately, though.

[Betts]

Thanks for the quick reply

[tkrongold]

Hi -

We'll be in Rome in early October & Piperno sounds wonderful. Would you recommend it for a special birthday celebration? Thanks!

[Kropotkin]

Piperno (Monte dè Cenci 9) is very good - but you'd need to book. The rooms are classic, characteristic Roman interiors - but more spacious than many. The food is very good and good value too. If you're not too adventurous you might have to beware some of their more authentic, Roman dishes - as local kitchens used to use every part of an animal. I once floundered with a plate of deep fried sheep's brain - it was excellent of its type, I was told, but I couldn't raise the enthusiasm to finish it, I'm afraid.

Also very popular with Romans is Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia (on Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21). This place enjoys a stunning location right next to the Gate of Octavius - if you can get one of the few outdoor tables. It offers Roman-Jewish cuisine and Roman staples - with offal featuring prominently. I can't say I've ever been overwhelmed by the food on my three visits, however, it is undoubtedly a notch above many places in town and it wouldn't be so consistently popular with the locals if it didn't deliver. It also offers an excellent atmosphere: full of Romans eating and chatting in a series of internal rooms.

If you can't get into these places, the restaurant next door to Giggetto is not as sought-after, but it provides solid, mainstream fare; the pasta's were fine and the pizzas quite agreeable, there's also some Jewish features on the menu. It has a pleasant courtyard to the rear - a nice place for a shady lunch if needed.

Two bakeries further North on Via del Portico d'Ottavia sell traditional Roman-Jewish cakes and pastries, and are often busy.

Some argue that the Jewish community of Rome are the oldest in Europe; they arrived in Biblical times and are still evident - despite being subject to Ghetto legislation from the Papacy until 1870, and the Nazis in 1943-44. The Via del Portico d'Ottavia is the historic centre of the community and, until relatively recently, remained a poor, ramshackle area (that was picturesque to other eyes). Although it isn't light reading, Alexander Stille's (1992) Benevolence and Betrayal (Cape / Vintage) includes a chapter on the Rome Ghetto in the Second World War that is amongst the best I've read on the topic - if only for the vivid history he tells, and the humanity of his approach. The centre of his story are the community of the Via del Portico d'Ottavia, which, once read, makes the street still more evocative.

I always tell visitors they must try Roman-Jewish cuisine, but don't neglect the rest of the city either - Testaccio and the residential suburbs beyond the medieval core offer excellent Italian food at fine prices.

[Betts]

Kropotkin - you are a gem. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.

[Sneakeater]

I have to say, though, that just wandering around the Ghetto, I've had some truly bad food in places I just walked into with no advance information. (Obviously, I can't remember what any of them were.) So be careful.

[Julian Teoh]

I was at Sora Margherita (30, Piazza delle Cinque Scuole), a small Roman-Jewish osteria, a couple of years ago. I found the carciofi alla giudea pretty good but the gnocchi was much a muchness. The bill was surprisingly high, though, given the decor and the level of food (which was basic and decent).

Nonetheles, it is a charming little place. The place was packed and we had to wait over 35 minutes for our table (no bookings). And when I say packed, I'm referring to the tables as well as the people - it amazed me how many rickety tables you could fit in that little space! The crowd appeared to have a fair number of travellers (both Italian and international) and I had the pleasure of sharing a table with two generously-built construction workers on their lunchbreak. For the sake of cordial relations, the owner brought out a black marker and drew a demarcation line on the paper "tablecloth" between our space and the workers.' We all had a good laugh about that.

Before you take your seat, you have to fill in a little card which bears a title sounding like "the friendly society of Sora Margherita" and I have always wondered what that was all about. It transpires that the area is not zoned for restaurants and Sora Margherita, in form if not in substance, is actually a "club" which you have to join before you can get fed!

[kerriar]

Il San Pietrino at Piazza Costaguti 16, (06) 68806471 is a place I have been back to several times and never been disappointed.

It's a favourite with the officers of the Guardia di Finanza which is always a good sign in Italy (don't ask how I know that but believe me, it's true).

The food is good Roman - deep fried baby artichokes certainly worth trying - and the evening crowd will be 90% Italian.

It's not so easy to find - Piazza Costaguti is just off the north side of Via del Portico d'Ottavia and the restuarant is through an almost unmarked door in the corner of the square.

Edited September 21, 2006 by kerriar (log)