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Should You Wait A Year To Visit A New Restaurant?


Sneakeater

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If we wait long enough, Columbus Avenue will become Fifth Avenue and Lespinasse a bistro.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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everybody who is getting all agitated about my bias against new restaurants, have you ever had the pleasure of a long-term, deep relationship with an excellent restaurant -- dozens of visits over a period of years? I can't imagine that anybody who has had that experience would say new restaurants are the holy grail. Not for diners at any level of seasoning.

I can definitely see what you're saying. I'd much rather visit the places where I know the chef/have worked with him, then somewhere that I don't know. However I also have inside info on where the best kitchens are, and there are a couple new restaurants I want to eat at (and one I might work at). Of course theres also many new restaurants I'm going to avoid like the plague, based on insider information... There are a couple restaurants where I do have a very good relationship, of course they're all places at which I once worked (and the best one is a place where I was part of the opening crew).

Theres a saying I heard a long time ago that I think applies in this case: "A stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet...".

And often, if you do want a good relationship with a restaurant, being one of those guys who supported them in the early days can be very rewarding - being able to see the progress, likely building a relationship with the chef, etc... I know there were always a couple long-time loyal customers who we'd just strait up cook for - no menus, we'd just cook for them, and they were very appreciative (which is what us cooks live for). If you only go at the height of a restaurant's popularity/success, then often the chef will be too busy/big to have the same relationship with every customer.

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A reporter from the National Post (Canada) got wind of this discussion, or perhaps the eGCI class that incited it, or something, and called me the other day. Her piece on the subject is titled The allure of the usual.

I also suggested she contact Lesley C(hesterman), who has some interesting quotes towards the end of the story.

- Be interested. Ask about the food, the ingredients, the wine. Show you care.

The second phrase I quoted is the last phrase of the paragraph. It is very true. Even the most reserved chef will open up and talk for hours if you engage them in a conversation about food (I know I will). Cooks don't make much money (and by not much I mean most live in poverty), so all we really get from the job is the good feeling when customers appreciate what we have done for them. Most people also don't know anything about food, so when we can ramble about our food (and be understood) it's very comforting. And often we'll send out an extra thick slab of foie gras, or a great big heap of caviar to the people we know will appreciate it most.

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