eG Foodblog: BryanZ - Alchemy

[BryanZ]

I realize it's easier for you to head into New York City from where you live, but Philly isn't that far away.  Have you ever thought about sampling this city's favorite foods (some of which probably do qualify as "street food" of sorts, as you can find carts all over town serving up cheesesteaks) or checking out its dining scene?

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Indeed, I was recently in Philly to eat. The city is full of charm and some great food. I had lunch at La Croix, gelato at this really great place whose name is now escaping me, pork sandwiches at Tony Luke's, and picked up some local produce at the Reading Terminal Market.

It was a great mini-trip. I'm trying to get down to La Croix for brunch before I go back to school, too.

[BryanZ]

Earlier I had said that I would post some food-related pictures of my very recent travels to Anguilla and St. Martin. I think some good and entertainment can come of this without it turning into a vacation slideshow.

For those who are interested...

The Cuisinart Resort and Spa in Anguilla as seen from our balcony

One of the better dishes at Santorini, Cuisinart's fine dining restaurant.

Sauteed Jamaican prawns, caramelized hearts of palm (part of a very nice six-course tasting menu)

Local crayfish over pasta at a restaurant literally right on the beach (Shoal Bay West for those who know the island)

It's hard to say how this next picture is at all food related, other than the fact that the property was located on the same beach as the restaurant that served the pasta dish seen above.

Covecastles Resort (unlike anything I've ever seen before)

Supposedly this place has won a lot of architectural awards. I really want to know who was judging.

Grilled calamari on a rosemary skewer, stuffed piquillo peppers at Michel Rostang in the Mallihouana Resort. Michel Rostang is a relatively famous Michelin 2-star chef.

If you ever find yourself in French St. Martin, I recommend this delicatessan, Le Bounty. Great cheeses, charcuterie, breads, and other French goodies.

Notice the sister carrying the requesite baugette

Finally, I include this picture because I really recommend this hotel in French St. Martin. It lies in Grand Case, the purported gourmet capital of the Caribbean. Undoubtedly, the area has a great number of good restaurants and this hotel is the nicest, and certainly most charming, in the area.

Edited July 12, 2006 by BryanZ (log)

[snowangel]

Brian, please let us know more about the smoked corn part of the puree! And, on what did you grill the porterhouse (equipment question). Do you use the same aparatus for smoking, too?

[BryanZ]

Brian, please let us know more about the smoked corn part of the puree!  And, on what did you grill the porterhouse (equipment question).  Do you use the same aparatus for smoking, too?

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So I had a smoked corn puree last night at Aquavit. It was both smokey and sweet and, naturally, very tasty.

I just smoked a few ears of corn over hickory for a couple hours at about 250F, then shaved off the kernels and pureed with some butter, cream, and chicken stock. Very simple, very deep flavors.

I do both my smoking and grilling in my completely uninspiring Weber Silver Genesis grill. I find it can maintain a decent 230ish for smoking meats and gets decently hot for high-heat grilling.

For now, good night. Tomorrow a bunch more meals in the city and who knows what else.

Edited July 12, 2006 by BryanZ (log)

[FabulousFoodBabe]

I have been told that New Jersey's number one export is college students.  Apparently they make up a surprisingly high percentage of students in most other states.

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Most of my husband's fraternity brothers come from NJ and NY; many of them from the same general area. I always found that kind of interesting.

And Varmint, I hear that there is a food-related reason for the Tarheels being called what they are. Didn't they follow road-paving trucks around in the old days and chew on the tar to whiten (or maybe lighten) their teeth? Bryan, any truth to this? <--my most innocent smile.

We were going to go to CuisinArt in early July this year, but had to postpone. When you say "local crayfish," is that the same as "carribbean lobster"?

Aerogarden: Do you have a link to this, is it sold online?

[lexy]

Wow - when I was a student (in the real Durham    got to get my British Snobbery in somewhere) I was considered a culinary icon just because I'd knock up the occasional bowl of pasta in the college kitchen!

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I'll say - I like to think I eat rather well for a student, but I'm not anywhere near your level of technical ability and experimentation.

What sort of kitchen set-up are you going to be working with at school next year? I'm living out in a house next year, and I was pleasantly surprised when moving some of my things into the house to find a gas oven in the kitchen and a grill in the back yard!

[BryanZ]

I have been told that New Jersey's number one export is college students.  Apparently they make up a surprisingly high percentage of students in most other states.

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Most of my husband's fraternity brothers come from NJ and NY; many of them from the same general area. I always found that kind of interesting.

And Varmint, I hear that there is a food-related reason for the Tarheels being called what they are. Didn't they follow road-paving trucks around in the old days and chew on the tar to whiten (or maybe lighten) their teeth? Bryan, any truth to this? <--my most innocent smile.

We were going to go to CuisinArt in early July this year, but had to postpone. When you say "local crayfish," is that the same as "carribbean lobster"?

Aerogarden: Do you have a link to this, is it sold online?

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The Cuisinart is an excellent resort. I highly recommend that you go, and the food isn't too bad either. Crayfish and Caribbean lobster are in fact different; the latter is somewhat larger, but the general anatomy is the same. They taste quite similar, too, but I was assured that they are in fact different things.

AeroGrow

I'll say - I like to think I eat rather well for a student, but I'm not anywhere near your level of technical ability and experimentation.

What sort of kitchen set-up are you going to be working with at school next year? I'm living out in a house next year, and I was pleasantly surprised when moving some of my things into the house to find a gas oven in the kitchen and a grill in the back yard!

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To be perfectly honest, I haven't seen my kitchen yet. My roommates, who have, say it's pretty rough, but I'm just doing my best to outfit it now. I know I'll have a four burner coil stove with terrible oven and a fridge. Beyond that it's all up in the air. I'm looking into buying a kitchen cart to increase my counter space and will have to buy some kind of table for plating. Although this Z Kitchen project is relatively small in scale it still seems like a ton of work and won't be cheap. I'm thinking of it as a spiritual investment of sorts.

I will be back tonight. I hope everyone has a nice day. Be hungry for me, I've got a lot to eat.

Edited July 12, 2006 by BryanZ (log)

[I_call_the_duck]

Bryan,

I'm loving the blog so far.

The gelato place you went to in Philly is most likely Capogiro.

I think Daniel recently bought an Aerogrow.

Re: the Weber grill--is it a gas or charcoal grill? Do you have a preference?

[Daniel]

I work part-time for my mother's trading export company.  Currently we're working on trying to get export rights to Japan for the AeroGrow, a hydro/aeroponic indoor growing system.  If anyone has any experience with this product I'd love to hear from you.  I think it's a cool idea, though perhaps a little gimmicky.

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I currently have two aerogardens.. I have one growing lettuce and one growing tomatoes.. The lettuce has been going for about three weeks and when I return will be ready to eat.. Its really an amazing thing.. It requires very little effort or skill, which is perfect for me Right now the choices are few.. You can grow flowers, tomatoes, international herbs, peppers, and lettuces.. But they are planning on coming out withy other seed packets.. Different berrys and things.. I am very happy with the product..

[Jean Blanchard]

Can you tell me more abou the dry-aging process? Did you start with a prime cut? Did you change the towel?

[Daniel]

The Cuisinart Resort and Spa in Anguilla as seen from our balcony

Local crayfish over pasta at a restaurant literally right on the beach (Shoal Bay West for those who know the island)

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Bryan,

I might have found some time on my business trip to read your blog. I have really been enjoying it.. I just saw something on Anguilla last night.. And the crayfish really stood out.. Yours looks equally as pretty... I have also heard Anguilla is known for its BBQ.. Did you happen to go to any shacks selling any Cue?

[Sancerre]

Aerogarden: Do you have a link to this, is it sold online?

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They sell the AeroGarden at the kitchen store where I teach classes (both online and in the store). It sells for $149.95, with additional cartridges going for $19.95. You can choose from herb, cherry tomato, international basil, petunias, salad greens, and chili peppers. They have one set up and growing for demo purposes. It's a cute product, but only about 15" high, leaving only about 8" of growing space. As far as purchasing one, I'd have to say that the amount of herb production would be better for garnishes than for any real cooking purposes. Not to mention at that price, you would probably come out ahead just putting pots on a windowsill, and purchasing any other herbs as you needed them.

If you are interested in their website, please PM me, since I'm not sure of the ettiquette of promoting a product on this site when I am technically an employee of this company, although I would make no money from any sales.

To address MizDucky: they don't sell "blank" cartridges, but I would imagine that an enterprising herb gardener could easily remove the provided seeds to replace with the seeds of their choice.

Loving this blog completely!

[Daniel]

I got my aerogardens at Frontgate.. I had a 10 percent coupon.. Frontgate.com

[aeschylus]

Interesting foodblog so far -- I'm excted to see more of your experiments with molecular gastronomy!

Could you talk some about your experiences cooking on campus while at Duke? I spent a semester there (heading back in the fall for grad school), and had to walk over to a neighboring dorm even to find a kitchen to use; the RA came by to check on me while I was working because it was so strange for someone to be cooking in the dorm. Have things improved? Have you found creative ways around the limitations? Do you get a sense that the average undergrad at Duke cares enough to seek out dining beyond what's offered on campus?

[MarketStEl]

I realize it's easier for you to head into New York City from where you live, but Philly isn't that far away.  Have you ever thought about sampling this city's favorite foods (some of which probably do qualify as "street food" of sorts, as you can find carts all over town serving up cheesesteaks) or checking out its dining scene?

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Indeed, I was recently in Philly to eat. The city is full of charm and some great food. I had lunch at La Croix, gelato at this really great place whose name is now escaping me,

Capogiro, probably. In which case, given that you also stopped at the RTM, you were in my neighborhood and stomping ground.

pork sandwiches at Tony Luke's, and picked up some local produce at the Reading Terminal Market.

It was a great mini-trip.  I'm trying to get down to La Croix for brunch before I go back to school, too.

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You stopped at all the right places. You might want to check out a rather fascinating insiders' discussion on the Pennsylvania board about the aftereffects of Jean-Marie Lacroix leaving his namesake restaurant as well.

Oh, and watch your PMs.

[MarketStEl]

Covecastles Resort (unlike anything I've ever seen before)

Supposedly this place has won a lot of architectural awards.  I really want to know who was judging.

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Sure you didn't stumble across a bunch of converted World War II defense bunkers by mistake?

[MarketStEl]

The porterhouse in its raw state.  This is after I had been dry-aging it wrapped loosely in a kitchen towel since Saturday.  After the aging, I cut off any dry, leathery bits.  The improvement in texture and depth of flavor is marked, though with a steak this large I could've easily gone twice as long.

Grilled porterhouse, smoked corn puree, sweet potato puree, roasted maitakes and chanterelles

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These pictures, along with some others that have appeared in this blog, raise an issue that I've been somewhat interested in for a while: Portion sizes.

Back in the fall of 2003, The Penn Current (the faculty/staff newspaper at the University of Pennsylvania; I was part of the team that launched it in 1998 and its managing editor from 1999 to 2004) ran an article on research by Penn psychology professor Paul Rozin that concluded that one of the keys to the "French paradox"--despite having a diet that was heavy with rich and fatty foods, the incidence of obesity among the French was lower than among Americans--was that the French simply ate less at each meal. (Hope you appreciate the parody of high-end plating in the photo accompanying the story.)

Rozin and his researchers noted something I think most of us who hang out here on eG know by simple observation: American restaurants serve huge portions. Rozin's research concluded that on average, American restaurant portions are 25 percent larger than French ones.

And yet one of the things I note about high-end restaurants in the US--and, I suspect, one of the reasons why some Americans, including me, occasionally feel they didn't get their money's worth at such places--is that they almost uniformly buck this trend. To tie this to the photos that prompted this post, your serving of porterhouse was portioned and plated the way it would be at a place like Lacroix or Per Se if those places served porterhouse steak, but if you went to, say, Ruth's Chris Steak House instead, you'd get the entire steak all to yourself for roughly the same price.

The reason I say "occasionally" in the above post is because I realize that at places of this type, you're here to experience the food, not just consume it, while at those places with the enormous portions, the opposite is more likely true. And yet I suspect that many Americans have been conditioned by all those large portions to not feel full unless they've had plenty to eat, and as a result, they may (hypothetically) walk out of a three-Michelin-star restaurant awestruck by the quality of what they ate but not completely satisfied because it didn't fill them up.

Since there are constant alarms in the press about the rising tide of obesity in the US, and plenty of discussions here and elsewhere about just what is responsible for it--everything from fat to high-fructose corn syrup to carbs in general to Auto Age suburban development has come under the gun--might a campaign to get restaurants to downsize their portions have a bigger effect on reversing this trend?

Edited July 12, 2006 by MarketStEl (log)

[percyn]

Hey Bryan...I might be late to the party, but glad to see you blogging.

Suggestion - Feature some hot spring eggs in the blog

Edited July 12, 2006 by percyn (log)

[Kouign Aman]

Covecastles Resort (unlike anything I've ever seen before)

Supposedly this place has won a lot of architectural awards.  I really want to know who was judging.

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They look like the over-the-cab fairings on long-haul trucks to me.

[tan319]

Nice blogs, bryan!

[Hiroyuki]

My only request so far is that I'd like to get a glimpse of your normal everyday meals. How about breakfast, for example? You don't have cereal? How about drinks? Do you ever eat "gohan" (cooked rice) like Japanese do?

Am I asking too much?

[docsconz]

I very much appreciate Bryan's taste in food, but I must diverge here. I think these buildings look pretty cool.

Bryan, did you ever get a chance to make it to Studio Kitchen in Philly? Shola's cooking is on a par with anyone's in this country right now.

When do you anticipate opening ZKitchen? I gather from your post that it has not yet served its first meal. I anticipate starting some College touring with my son soon. If by chance we make it down to Duke while you are there you will be hearing from me. I am hoping that he will be interested in and get in to my alam mater, but he has expressed an interest in experiencing a more urban lifestyle. I am trying to tell him to wait for graduate school for that.

Keep it coming!

[BryanZ]

The gelato place you went to in Philly is most likely Capogiro. 

Re:  the Weber grill--is it a gas or charcoal grill?  Do you have a preference?

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Indeed, it was Capogiro. I encourage everyone to try this place if they happen to be in Philly. You know how most places say that you can try all the flavors before you decide on what to order, at this place they literally encouraged us to try them all. It was a great experience.

My Weber is gas. Again, not all that cool. It works pretty well.

I currently have two aerogardens.. I have one growing lettuce and one growing tomatoes.. The lettuce has been going for about three weeks and when I return will be ready to eat.. Its really an amazing thing.. It requires very little effort or skill, which is perfect for me    Right now the choices are few.. You can grow flowers, tomatoes, international herbs, peppers, and lettuces.. But they are planning on coming out withy other seed packets.. Different berrys and things.. I am very happy with the product..

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Great to hear some positive feedback on the product. There appears to be competition for Japanese distribution rights. Hopefully we will prevail. Mostly, I'm excited to get a sample for our house. I only fear that it'll be too late, and it will be time for me to go back to school.

Can you tell me more abou the dry-aging process?  Did you start with a prime cut?  Did you change the towel?

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The porterhouse cooked last night was not a Prime cut. I've found getting Prime porterhouses to be almost impossible to find since the best are usually offered to steakhouses. To be honest, I prefer Prime ribeyes, but that's a whole separate topic. I picked this one becuase of the large tenderloin (making it a true porterhouse as opposed to a T-bone) and its symetrical shape to aid in cooking.

My dry-aging process is very simple. Just wrap loosely in a kitchen towel or cheese cloth set on a toaster rack and put that on top of a plate. The towel should help draw out moisture and anything that drips (if at all) will be caught with the plate. You don't really have to change the towel for ages of less than a week, though occasional turning and rewrapping can't hurt.

Bryan,

I might have found some time on my business trip to read your blog.    I have really been enjoying it.. I just saw something on Anguilla last night.. And the crayfish really stood out.. Yours looks equally as pretty... I have also heard Anguilla is known for its BBQ.. Did you happen to go to any shacks selling any Cue?

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The crayfish pasta dish was made that much better in that we were sipping sparkling wine cocktails just feet from the sand on a completely secluded beach.

Anguilla does have a couple popular 'cue joints. Though the style, from what I observed, isn't exactly NC or Kansas City or Texas or anything else we might immediately recognize. We drove past one on our way to dinner one night and were going to come back the next night. Unfortunately, it was closed and we later learned that most of the establishments (they're not quite restaurants) are only open on Friday and Saturday nights. If you end up in Anguilla, that's a little tidbit worth knowing.

Could you talk some about your experiences cooking on campus while at Duke? I spent a semester there (heading back in the fall for grad school), and had to walk over to a neighboring dorm even to find a kitchen to use; the RA came by to check on me while I was working because it was so strange for someone to be cooking in the dorm. Have things improved? Have you found creative ways around the limitations? Do you get a sense that the average undergrad at Duke cares enough to seek out dining beyond what's offered on campus?

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My cooking experiences at Duke are relatively limited thus far, as I have not yet had my own kitchen. Yes, I've done some cooking in the communal dorm kitchens, but it's obviously not quite the same. The opportunity to have my own kitchen is why I'm trying to create the Z Kitchen concept.

In terms of food awareness on campus, I'd say it's pretty good. I've more or less single-handedly improved this awareness dramatically by essentially creating a food section for our newspaper. Additionally, this year I'm the chair of the Duke University Student Dining Advisory Committee. With a new major vendor to control our two main eateries I think it will fall on my shoulders to get people excited about the new food opportunities students will have.

And if you're on campus in the fall come eat at Z Kitchen and tell your friends and eat out with me. Seriously.

These pictures, along with some others that have appeared in this blog, raise an issue that I've been somewhat interested in for a while:  Portion sizes....

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You bring up some very good points. I find most portioning in American restaurants to be heinous. I guess I'm spoiled, but I have a VERY hard time ordering a la carte at even top restaurants. I'm a huge believer in Thomas Keller's application of the theory of diminishing returns to food. For me, the ideal portion size is probably five small bites. Keller says three or four, but I like maybe one more to really seal the deal, so to speak.

Some people criticize restaurants like wd~50 or Alinea not so much for the lack of food but for the lack of "substance" in many of the dishes. This is to say that many people, even in the course of a tasting menu, like to have one or two courses that are readily identifiable as "mains" or "entrees". Personally, I couldn't disagree more, I love how at Alinea portion size varies wildly, so you never know what to expect next. I'm not saying that a typical three course meal, app, main, dessert, is bad, but I prefer something a little less traditional.

Anything I plate at home (probably 3 out of every 5 meals are plated as opposed to "family-style") employs "small" portions. There's usually leftovers if we want more, but I'm usually content after eating what I give myself.

My only request so far is that I'd like to get a glimpse of your normal everyday meals.  How about breakfast, for example?  You don't have cereal?  How about drinks?  Do you ever eat "gohan" (cooked rice) like Japanese do?

Am I asking too much?

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To be perfectly honest, a meal like my porterhouse one is a normal everyday meal. In fact, more typical meals like pasta or dinner salads or a roast or things like that are more special occasions that require advanced planning. I do eat "gohan," and Japanese homestyle cuisine was what I ate for most of my childhood. My mother does make karaage, soba, gyoza, katsu, and other staples but, again, it's not what we eat everyday. It often seems like "Japanese night" is a bigger undertaking than my typical cooking.

We drink a lot of wine, some beer, but nothing too exciting. Again, since I'm underage I can't just go buying alcohol the way I buy food. For those interested in my personal tastes, however, I prefer pinot noirs and wheat beers for everyday drinking.

Bryan, did you ever get a chance to make it to Studio Kitchen in Philly? Shola's cooking is on a par with anyone's in this country right now.

When do you anticipate opening ZKitchen? I gather from your post that it has not yet served its first meal. I anticipate starting some College touring with my son soon. If by chance we make it down to Duke while you are there you will be hearing from me.

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StudioKitchen's closing this spring was an exceptionally unfortunate event for diners in the tri-state area. For those unfamiliar with SK, I highly recommend you do a quick search for the thread; it's amazing stuff. I only hope that my concept may begin to approach the innovative cuisine of SK.

I heartily agree with you in that Shola's cooking is on par with anything in the country.

Z Kitchen will be "opening" in late August. Opening is a relative term since I pretty much just need to convince some people to let me cook for them for minimal financial compensation. If you're down at Duke, I'd love to hear from you. I know all the best places to eat on and off campus.

Now please pardon me while I chronicle today's pictures and events. It was a wet one.

Edited July 13, 2006 by BryanZ (log)

[Ann_T]

Bryan, I'm really enjoying your Blog. Your meals and your photos are wonderful. I really love seeing the Wegman's photos. Brought back memories of when I lived in Western New York 5 years ago. Wegman's was my favourite grocery store.

Ann

[BryanZ]

So onto today's activities and eats. I've got a bunch of pictures (and what I'm posting isn't even all of them), so get ready.

An exceedingly hot and muggy day turned ugly. More of that to come.

First, the Girlfriend and I set off to the city bright eyed and ready to stuff our faces. Naturally, no breakfast.

Our first stop was Alto, Scott Conant's modern Northern Italian restaurant. Scott Conant also owns L' Impero, one of the city's most critically acclaimed Italian mainstays, but I think I prefer Alto. Alto's cuisine and decor are more modern, and it's a lot easier to get to.

We started off with two honestly spectacular dishes. Not all that season, but undoubtedly awesome.

Creamy polenta, wild mushrooms, truffle reduction

A Scott Conant classic. Nothing new here but so unbelievably tasty that it hurts. I'm not sure if others get this feeling but there are times when a dish just tastes so good that you can feel it in the back of your eyes. This dish was like that.

Braised rabbit, herbed spaetzel (and some kind of lecithin-infused air)

Rich, herbal, awesome.

Seared striped bass, red wine reduction, pickled red onions

Good, but nothing compared to the appetizers.

Fresh pasta, tomatoes, basil

Another Scott Conant classic. I include this dish not because it looks all that great or anything, but because it represents an incredibly simple dish done very, very well.

Dark chocolate ganache, vanilla-black pepper gelato

The gelato stole the show here. Creamy, dense, but with distinct black pepper to play with the palate.

We then walked 30 blocks down Madison Ave. (we could use the walk) to Tabla, Danny Meyer's incredibly popular Indian-inspired, New American restaurant. Danny Meyer is arguably New York City's biggest, most successful, and best-regarded restauranteur.

Tabla's food isn't so much Indian as it is New American using the Indian (and sometimes Southeast Asian) spice rack. As you will see, the food here is perhaps the least creatively presented, but it is deeply satisfying. When we got here at 2pm for the last seating, the place was jam-packed.

Tandoori quail

Succulent meat, assertive spices, finger-lickin' good.

Flash-seared calamari, arugula, glass noodles in a Thai-style broth

A great counterpoint to the quail, this was light and refreshing but still had plenty of strong flavors.

Pork confit, braised Greenmarket vegetables, fried fennel leaves

This was kind of like carnitas. This made the dish deliciously juicy and flavorful but a little heavy. The fried fennel leaves were weird and didn't add anything to the dish, booo.

Orange blossom flan

This picture is kind of washed out and I apologize. I wanted to include this dish because it possessed a sweetness unlike anything I've ever had before. I suppose I've never experienced orange blossom in such a concentrated manner. Really good, in a new, unfamiliar sort of way.

Tahitian vanilla kulfi, cherries

Does anyone know what kulfi is? It seemed like a richer, thicker, more frozen version of vanilla ice cream.

After our lunches we took a rest in Madison Square Park, just across the street from Tabla. Two other Danny Meyer establishments are also right in this area, Eleven Madison Park (fine dining) and Shake Shack. I'll be dining at Eleven Madison Park next week and am excited to try the work of their new, highly acclaimed chef.

Shake Shack is exactly what the name suggests. It's a shack in the middle of the park that sells burgers, frozen custard, and other American streetfood staples. This place is ridiculously crowded, always. I'll confess that I've never eaten there, but I can't quite see what the big deal is.

The infamous "Shack"

The line extended a good deal back, as it always does.

Part of the menu

Too full to try any of the Shack's wares, we settled on a bench to people watch. It had been drizzling on and off all day, but we thought we'd be okay.

[cue thunder, lightning, and forboding musing]

Edited July 13, 2006 by BryanZ (log)