Eleven Madison Park

[Todd36]

I've only eaten at the bar under the new regime, but that was quite good. I have to stop in for lunch. I work in the same building, so we usually want to escape....

[BryanZ]

I had the opportunity to partake in another of Chef Humm's tasting menus tonight as my prepenultimate meal of the holiday season. This was my third meal under Chef Humm, and it was a good one.

Things have changed slightly since my last visit at the end of the summer. The restaurant continues to become more elegant with improved bread service including new warm gourgeres and cheese brioche, slightly more attentive service from the backwait, and the ever-improving cuisine of Chef Humm. In addition the tasting menu has grown in written length but there are fewer amuses. After the canapes, you get right into things. Overall, I'd say this is better because you end up getting probably one or two more more "serious" dishes. A la carte diners still get the seafood-y soup-y thing before receiving their selections. Unfortunately, the space still doesn't feel quite right for the cuisine. I still love the room, but I would rather eat Chef Humm's cuisine in Jean-Georges or Gordon Ramsay where things are more intimate.

The low point--it wasn't THAT low--was our server who seemed to be new. You could tell he was trying hard and therefore the service experience wasn't quite as smooth and seamless. The meal started on a somehwat stressful note when he took my and my mother's drink order but upon bringing the glasses for wine would not serve me because I may not technically be 21. So, yes, he does have the law and all that on his side, but this has NEVER happened to me, and I eat out a ton. For one, I'm with my mommy, I'm not getting wasted. Secondly, back when I was like 17 or something I felt the need to aplogize to the wine captain at Cru for not ordering wine at a restaurant known for it because I was underage. He flat out said that the unofficial, official policy for good restaurants was one of don't ask, don't tell. Needless to say I was thrown off my game, as I may have known persons who may have been underage who may have enjoyed many a great glass of wine while dining at EMP, but with that unfortunate event behind us, the meal began. I'm interested to hear what people think about this.

Here's the menu:

I love the Fantasy of Eggs dish, but it wasn't as good this time as on a previous occasion. As others have mentioned, the egg yolk in two of the three dishes served to us was overcooked. Rather than mixing deliciously into urchin broth/foam, I had to cut through the yolk with my spoon. This was a little bit disappointing, but the flavors were still on.

The pink beet cube (more so than the more traditional golden and red varieties) in the salad course was really special. A different kind of sweetness than I'm used to when eating beets, and I eat and serve them frequently. Of course, this could have all been in my mind since I so enjoyed the pink color, but I'm going to say it tasted better, too.

Things really picked up with the scallop ceviche. A great balance between salt and acid that still maintained the dish's harmonious, fine-dining air. The geoduck clams added a nice bit of texture.

The foie was cocoa was a good dish, but perhaps our least favorite of the savory. The cocoa added a bit of bitterness and saltiness, while the quince gelee supplied a subtle amount of sweetness. Little bits of candied quince upped the sugar and acid in small bursts. Again, this was good dish but comparatively not as good as the others. I liked the more traditional torchon I had at Ramsay last month and the bruleed foie at JG last week more.

At the red snapper dish, things start getting out of control good. The red snapper dish was one of the better fish dishes I've had this year. The snapper was nice and crisp, perhaps an itty bitty bit overcooked but I'd take that any day for skin this crisp. The highlight was the interplay between the fennel puree/confit and the olives--in the candied and sauce Vierge form. There was also a sweet puree beneath it all that could have been persimmon or citrus-infused, I'm not sure. This dish was so tasty and the flavors just came together beautifully. An excellent, four-star dish.

The lobster was perhaps the most interesting dish of the night. The veloute had apples and bananas (Thomas Keller, eat your heart out) in addition to the lemongrass and was topped with an at-the-table drizzle of kaffir lime oil. Three nice chunks of lobster were served out of the shell in this broth. While I would not eat lobster like this everyday, this was such an interesting and bold play on flavors that I have to respect it. The banana was a really smart way to bring out the sweetness of the lobster but was grounded by the lemongrass and kaffir lime notes. Another great dish with added points for creativity.

I love everything Four Story Hill. I'm by no means a great chef nor am I one for celebrity farmers, but this hasn't stopped me from trying to get product from them. Chef Humm's poularde is an improved version of another truffled-poularde dish I had at EMP for lunch earlier this year. This time black truffles are stuffed in the breast and little cubes of truffle dot a potato mousseline. The dish is sauced at the table with a truffle jus. This was sooooo good. I'm guessing sous vide since it was so amazingly tender. Again, soo good. Probably the best poularde dish I've had in memory. Sooo good.

Sooo good.

Sorry.

Usually, I'm disappointed by final meat courses on tasting menus, as they usually put a few slices of meat on a plate with some red wine sauce, some starch, etc, etc. In fact the only final meat courses I can remember clearly are Chef Humm's veal from a tasting menu earlier this summer and a beef dish at Per Se a couple years ago--and one at Aquavit that I remember because it was disappointing in comparison to an otherwise awesome meal, so we won't count that. Anyway, this course didn't quite measure up to the ones preceeding it, but it was still better than its competitors. A red wine puree, was a fun and surprisingly tasty take on the mediocre sauce I have come to fear. Ironically, I don't remember any trumpet mushrooms and I think Cheff Humm left them off in favor of the puree, or maybe they were just that forgettable. The venison was amazingly tender--another SV application I believe due to the even coloring, too--but tasted like beef, much like all venison served in this city.

Desserts were good, but not great. I'm not sure if Chef Kaplan is still around, but they were still very "her." The pre-dessert of Satsuma tangergine was actually bordering on very good but could've been more refined and more acidic to serve its purpose in the meal. The chocolate souffle was that. It was fine, but I'm getting bored with chocolate at the end of meals. But then again, even Jordan Kahn adheres to this age-old trend.

Our meal clocked in at 4+ (6:30-after 10:30) hours. Too long but not unbearably so. I would've liked to see things move at a more even pace as some plates were sent out very quickly while others had noticeably long waits.

EMP, more particularly Chef Humm, is special. I know it's become something like a foodie favorite in the past months, but it's still worth checking out for the first time, or again, or again again. Ignore the flashing cameras of fellow diners, cavernous room, and not-quite-perfect service and timing and enjoy food that hits all the high notes of the big boys. I've got Per Se tomorrow, so we'll see how Chef Humm stands up to the biggest of the big.

[Pan]

Bryan, you say that your meal took 4 hours. I'm curious how long you waited for your first course, because the thing that really caused me to consider 11 Madison Park not worth returning to was the total lack of service and lack of ability to flag down our waiter for really, really long periods of time. In a Danny Meyer restaurant, you expect exemplary service, and we certainly didn't get that when we were there. In previous visits, before Chef Humm was installed, I had very good service each time. That night might have been a fluke, but my parents were so turned off by the experience that they're reluctant to go to a high-end place again. My mother likes Hearth very much, but Hearth costs maybe half what we spent at 11 Madison Park. The two times I've been to Hearth, service has been terrific, and we have never been waiting for a long time to have any food.

[slkinsey]

Please direct any discussion as to observing alcohol laws (and drinking age in particular) to this thread in the Restaurant Life forum. Thanks!

[BryanZ]

This was moved by the mod to the above thread, but since it's perhaps more applicable here, I'm re-posting.

Pan, the length did seem a bit long but I only felt as if things were dragging for two courses. The first course came out nicely, so it wasn't like we were waiting around for things to get going. Again, this was an early reso, but if it had been later, I might've been less willing to have a four-hour meal. As a matter of comparison, a meal of a similar number of courses only took me 2.5 hours at Per Se. As I mentioned in that thread, although things were obviously moving swiftly (thought not overly so) I prefer knowing that my next course will be out in a few minutes and the next one a few minutes after that to waiting five minutes for one course, then twenty minutes for the next. I'm not necessarily saying this latter instance happens all the time at EMP, but it is more likely.

I would also like to say here, in addition to what I said in the Per Se thread, that Chef Humm's cooking does compare favorably with the best in the city. We have noted here that Chef Humm strikes a marvelous balance between soul, creativity, classic technique, and deliciousness. After some very solid meals in the past few days, I fully support and wish to further this notion. My most memorable dish between Chef Kahn's amazing desserts at Varietal, Chef Benno's perfectly executed cuisine at Per Se, and Chef Humm's tasting menu is the Four Story Hill poularde dish with black truffles at EMP.

[oakapple]

I've had two long tasting menus in the last week (Gordon Ramsay, WD-50), both of which clocked in somewhere between 2½ and 3 hours. And in both cases, I wanted them to go slower. While 4 hours is clearly on the long side, the ideal time for me is certainly well above 3 hours --- assuming I'm not in any particular hurry.

Even at Jean Georges, where I had the long tasting menu a couple of months ago, it went by faster than we wanted, and they had trouble slowing down even when we specifically requested it.

[Pan]

Bryan, I seem to be the only one on this thread (I think?) who was not that impressed with Chef Humm's food, though I admit the service made me (and my family) more critical, and if you read my report, it sounds like a positive report on the food. Positive, that is, but not enough to go again and blow another large sum of money. At least a few folks have posted on Chowhound that they were underwhelmed, though. What can I say? We all have different experiences and different reactions, and I'm glad you had a good time.

[Nathan]

Does anyone know if they will serve the Gourmand menu at the bar?

I still haven't settled on a place to dine tonight (I suppose there is a possibility that I could get a table since the weather has no doubt caused some B&T cancellations but I still want to avoid all that V-day special menu crap).

[Sneakeater]

I have never been denied any kind of tasting menu at the bar there.

I have, in fact, never ordered anything BUT tasting menus at the bar there.

[Nathan]

thanks....I guess that will work then.

[ulterior epicure]

thanks....I guess that will work then.

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Nathan, please do report, if you go. I will be especially interested to hear about your experience and that amazing "Gourmande" tasting posted online.

u.e.

[Nathan]

I had an absolutely fabulous meal at EMP last night.

The "Gourmand" menu was stellar.

There is just one minor caveat -- it didn't happen.

I'm tired. I'm tired at worshipping at the feet of chefs and restauranteurs. Tired of restaurant groups supposedly known for service that discriminate against solo diners.

Tired of a fricking Hallmark holiday on my fricking birthday which means that I can't eat anywhere.

Apparently Danny Meyer is worried that the amateur night couples will be offended by the sight of a solo diner. It's not like I've eaten in DM restaurants between 21 and 24 times over the last four years (and I'm not counting Blue Smoke or the Shake Shack)...it's not like anything's ever gone from my wallet to his.

I get into EMP last night. Head to the bar. It is at least half empty. They give me a wine list. I tell them that they can go ahead and get started on the tasting menu and I'd like to discuss pairings. "Sorry, we do not serve the tasting menu at the bar." "I know for a fact that you do...friends of mine have ordered it here more than once." "We stopped serving it at the bar a month and a half ago."

Fine....lots of places don't serve it at the bar. Others require two diners (like Babbo). "I'd like an ala carte menu then." "Sorry, we are not serving food at the bar this evening."

And that was it. No suggestion that due to the weather a table may become available....no suggestion that they could call over to GT and at least get me into the tavern room. No. Danny Meyer's not interested in solo regulars on a revenue maximizing day. Can't have the sight of us offending the B&T once a year types. It's not romantic and all.....

I calmly and politely got my coat back....walked outside and out of earshot....and lost it. Obviously, none of it is repeatable here.

Went over to Craftsteak and they offered me the full menu at the bar. Ok, so the meal was mediocre but Colicchio will now have my business. He doesn't discriminate against people due to some fricking hallmark day. (the point here isn't that I couldn't have had a V-day date...it's that I refuse to take someone else out on my birthday)

I will, however, never eat in another Danny Meyer restaurant again.

[Sneakeater]

This sucks. I'm going to miss being able to plop down there and get the tasting menu whenever the mood struck.

Just trying to pull something out of this: is it possible that they meant only at the actual bar, and not at the tables in the bar area?

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

Edited February 15, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[ulterior epicure]

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

While I'm surprised when any restaurant, especially high-end restaurants, offers the tasting at the bar, I'm curious why you think so?

@ Nathan: While I'm sure your disappointment far exceeds mine, I'm very sorry to hear about your mishap... and am especially disappointed that I will not get to hear about your would-be experience with the tasting menu at EMP. And, Happy Birthday.

Edited February 15, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[larrylee]

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

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...easy to see why they'd stop serving the tasting menu at the bar, or why they weren't serving a la carte at the bar that night, or both?

Both decisions seem unfortunate and silly to me.

[Nathan]

This sucks.  I'm going to miss being able to plop down there and get the tasting menu whenever the mood struck.

Just trying to pull something out of this:  is it possible that they meant only at the actual bar, and not at the tables in the bar area?

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

←

they certainly didn't offer it.

but then, like I said, the vaunted Meyer customer service didn't offer to do squat.

[Sneakeater]

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

While I'm surprised when any restaurant, especially high-end restaurants, offers the tasting at the bar, I'm curious why you think so?

←

Say you have a bar that you want to function as an actual bar. One where people come in, have some drinks, hang out, leave. Also serves as a waiting pen for tables. Lots of energy and bustle.

Maybe you wouldn't want the bar to be full of dinners settled in for extended nine-course meals. Maybe you'd want to encourage more turnover than that. Maybe you'd think that people sitting there eating long meals sinks the energy level.

Look: I'M usually the guy sitting there eating the long meal. I'm not happy if they stop letting me do it. I'm just saying I can see what they're thinking.

Edited February 15, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[ulterior epicure]

(BTW, I have to say that, unfortunately, it's easy for me to see why they'd decide to do this.)

While I'm surprised when any restaurant, especially high-end restaurants, offers the tasting at the bar, I'm curious why you think so?

←

Say you have a bar that you want to function as an actual bar. One where people come in, have some drinks, hang out, leave. Lots of energy and bustle.

Maybe you wouldn't want the bar to be full of dinners having extended nine-course meals. Maybe you'd want to encourage more turnover than that. Maybe you'd think that people sitting there eating long meals sinks the energy level.

Look: I'M usually the guy sitting there eating the long meal. I'm not happy if they stop letting me do it. I'm just saying I can see what they're thinking.

←

No disagreements here. Those are the same reasons I am surprised that high-end restaurants allow it to happen in the first place. I just thought you might have other reasons/theories that weren't obvious to me.

I suppose this is why places like L'Atelier JR offer "the counter" - where the full menu and tastings are available in single diner-friendly format.

Sorry, again, to hear about the disappointment.

u.e.

[Sneakeater]

While I said I could understand why they'd do it, other than Babbo (and now EMP), I don't know any NYC restaurants that will allow you to order off the restaurant's main menu at the bar but NOT allow you to order a tasting menu.

Can anybody identify any others?

[Gastro888]

Would you consider writing a letter to Danny Meyer? Considering he is all about hospitality and whatnot maybe this might be a chance for you to voice your opinion and express your disappointment? I'm sorry to hear that happened to you.

[Eatmywords]

Obviously, they didn't want you hitting on anyone's date.

Granted, it sucks they discontinued the tasting at the bar but you have to know Vday is that once a year insanity that turns normal operations into "whatever works best". You should have known better. You should have called.

Really, does this deserve complaining?

[Sneakeater]

WE ARE NORMAL AND WE WANT OUR FREEDOM!

[oakapple]

I will, however, never eat in another Danny Meyer restaurant again.

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It is utterly immaterial to me whether you eat at a DM restaurant or not, but I wouldn't make such a decision based on the restaurant's performance on Amateur Night. There are a number of cases where I've had disappointing experiences on such occasions, then gone back on a "normal" night when it was totally different.

I can certainly see why a restaurant would decide not to serve the tasting menu at the bar on V-day. Why they would discontinue the practice entirely is less clear, but maybe they want bar seats to turn over more quickly.

[Nathan]

I will, however, never eat in another Danny Meyer restaurant again.

←

It is utterly immaterial to me whether you eat at a DM restaurant or not, but I wouldn't make such a decision based on the restaurant's performance on Amateur Night. There are a number of cases where I've had disappointing experiences on such occasions, then gone back on a "normal" night when it was totally different.

I can certainly see why a restaurant would decide not to serve the tasting menu at the bar on V-day. Why they would discontinue the practice entirely is less clear, but maybe they want bar seats to turn over more quickly.

←

they refused to serve me any food whatsoever.

that's inexcusable.

[Nathan]

Obviously, they didn't want you hitting on anyone's date.

Granted, it sucks they discontinued the tasting at the bar but you have to know Vday is that once a year insanity that turns normal operations into "whatever works best".  You should have known better.  You should have called. 

Really, does this deserve complaining? 

←

EMP is a Danny Meyer restaurant. It's a machine. It's not like most restaurants. I'm sure they're hyper-organized that day just like any other day.