your table awaits

[thomas jerome newton]

of course food is the key element of a dining experience, but i am fascinated by all apsects of eating out...to kick off...

that person at the door...what makes a great host and which restaurants stand out in london?

[cabrales]

My answers might appear run-of-the-mill, as the two maitre d's whom I believe are effective are at the UK's two Michelin three-stars. Jean-Claude Breton at Gordon Ramsay RHR is always on hand, makes first-time diners feel at home (although including reportedly by pretending to recognize them when he could not have possibly seen them before), is confirmatory of diners' choices of dish (I subjectively really like his hand-rubbing gestures when he is expressing approval of one's orders, although that response may not be shared), is knowledgeable and articulate (I like lengthy description of dishes when I request them), and does recognize repeat diners (e.g., specific facts he might remember about prior conversations, availability of access to rcancelled reservations, nice treatment at the restaurant, etc). When I am at the restaurant with guests, he is forthcoming about my prior dining at the restaurant (including by mentioning that I need not look at the menu to know its contents, which is inaccurate but still nice). By the way, Dominick (spelling?), who is now affiliated with GR Claridge's but used to be at RHR, is also excellent. I also believe RHR has London's most proficient and best-service sommelier, Thierry Berson (spelling).

Diego Masciega at Waterside Inn is a very effective maitre d' as well. He spent some formulative years at Chapel, and is mentioned at several places in M Roux's book "Life Is a Menu". At WI, he would stop by to talk to guests sitting in the entryway lounge (one of the areas for taking in aperatifs, close to the artwork involving sculped people holding string instruments and next to the cabinetcases holding WI items one can purchase), and picked up enough on my interest in food to offer a tour of the kitchen. Also, while he is not always taking the meal order in the dining room, he is generally around to say hello. He personally responds to many e-mails sent through the WI website.

http://www.waterside-inn.co.uk/theteamrestaurant.htm

The Capital appears to have a female dining room lead (is the middle-aged woman the maitre d'?). Given the size of the dining room, this person appears quite active. I'd have to say that she lacks a bit of the polish and appearance of being at ease of the two maitre d's described above. However, it's nice to see a female maitre d', if she occupies that role.

[Scottf]

Cabrales

If the female at The Capital is the one I'm thinking of and have had on occasion, she is actually the Maitre'd for breakfast whom occassionally covers lunch/dinner.

I had to ask, (though not her, one of the waitresses ), as she was quite pushy in relation to cheese/ extra drinks etc.

I believe the Maitre'd is in fact a tall, dark Frenchman

[macrosan]

The best maitre d' I've encountered was a young Frenchman at Foliage. Easy, friendly style of welcome, no pompous ceremony in looking us up in the reservations list (he obviously pre-checks and memorises names of people booked in the half-hour ahead), took us to our table, introduced himself and the waiter, and made us fully comfortable at the table.

He acted as sommelier (this was lunch-time, so I don't know if they have a sommelier at dinner) and was knowledgeable and helpful (and dead right!) with our wine choice.

Throughout the meal, he came over with the waiters as they served each course. He stayed there until we had taken our first mouthful, then enquired if the dish was OK. I loved that, because often they ask when you've just about finished a dish, by which time it's too late and in any case you no longer feel like eating when they offer to replace something.

Apart from all that, he only came to the table once, when I start to look round to get some more water (that took him 0.73 seconds from the time my head started to turn --- I timed him).

Finally, he organised getting our coats as we left, asked us whether we had enjoyed our visit (note visit, not meal) and hoped he would see us again.

That decsription was just about my definition of a perfect maitre d'.

[Bapi]

I wholeheartedly agree with Cabrales regarding Diego Masciaga at The Waterside Inn.

At the other end of the spectrum has anyone come across the officious and patronising fool at Quo Vadis? I very much doubt whether he is the maitre d', being junior in manner( not age) and I am afraid I do not know his name (probably a good job to, as I would be sorely tempted to despatch a South American Hit Squad), but, suffice to say he is of the sort, who firmly believes that the lurid bright orange spectacles he sports, are actually fashionable.

Eight of us ventured there fairly recently to partake in a newspaper offer for £15 for two courses. On arriving, we declined his offer of an aperitif having already been elsewhere for cocktails. This seemed to both baffle and almost anger him. Such that when I asked what the "Leoni's Cannelloni" was, as listed on that day's menu, his terse and quite horrifically patronising response was "Everyone knows what Cannelloni is". Granted, most of us do, but is it only I who thinks the word "Leoni's" - is perhaps not the most descriptive to describe the contents of a dish??

I intimated this to him, suggesting that - "Leoni's" didn't even give an indication as to whether the dish was vegetarian or not. To which he "graciously" responded (read: barked back) that it contained spinach and ricotta. Is this form of surly behaviour acceptable of someone whose vocation should be to put people at ease and welcome them to enjoy (and spend money) on a meal? I don't think so, all it did was to instantly dispel any merriment at our table and ensure no further questions where asked about the food.

A shame as the food was very good - including Leoni's Cannelloni! and the other staff were particularly polite. An even greater shame is that the rather striking (red haired) woman who was in charge at Quo Vadis a few years back, didn't seem to be there. She again, was the complete antithesis of the buffoon I have mentioned above- being both knowledgeable and genuinely helpful. Marco - bring her back.

In a City of great restaurants, it is unlikely that I will pay good money to venture back to Quo Vadis, solely because of that member of staff. Why should I when I can get that sort of abuse at home ?

[cabrales]

The best maitre d' I've encountered was a young Frenchman at Foliage.

macrosan -- I agree the service at Foliage is good. I took a couple there for lunch within the last year. For some reason, they both did not choose to drink, so I also declined alcohol. We were, of course, ordering the very reasonably priced prix fixe lunch. While I did not necessarily focus on who the maitre d' was, the service was very good throughout the meal. There was never any sentiment conveyed that we were not the restaurant's top priority, by reason of our less expensive menu choices or the absence of a wine order.

[lizziee]

I think, one of the most under-rated jobs in a restaurant is the Maitre d'hôtel. It is so much more than "meet and greet." His responsibilities are not only essential to the smooth operation of a restaurant, but wide-ranging. The Maitre d'hôtel is responsible for supervising the entire front of the house staff. Bad service inevitably means a poor Maitre d'hôtel.

From the web site (http://www.enjoyhospitality.com/careers/TheMaitreDHotel.htm), Donato Colassanto describes it best: "The Maitre D'hôtel is the 'stage manager' for an establishment, setting the scene, inspiring the staff, mechanizing the service, managing the inevitable, resolving the impromptu. He is the Ambassador to every Chefs creation and an international Diplomat for every guest."

A good Maitre d'hôtel ensures perfect, correct and smooth service. He trains, motivates, reassures and corrects his staff, from the head waiter to the busser. He has eyes in back of his head and anticipates problems before they happen. When problems do arise, which they inevitably do, he handles them with professionalism, patience, and efficiency.

He is the liaison between the kitchen and the front of the house. His job is to allow the creativity of the Chef to shine; enhance the dining experience, rather than detract from it. It has often been said that good service can make a mediocre meal better, but bad service can destroy a good meal.

His knowledge of food and wine must be abundant as he is ultimately responsible for "teaching" his staff.

Again from Donato Colassanto: "A Maitre D'hôtel has an excellent memory for names and faces, as well as insight to be one step ahead at all times, especially so when it comes to liaison with the guests. The Maitre D'hôtel will remember that customer, what he eats, what he drinks, who is guests were, where he likes to sit as soon as he has steps into the restaurant, and will remember him forever. The Maitre D'hôtel becomes each guest's personal Butler for those few hours using his brigade as his aides. He is humble but at the same time assertive, he always bears a pleasing expression, his attire and self-appearance is impeccable and with his brigade he creates the ambiance and welcoming atmosphere within the Restaurant, so that guests sense the confidence and trust from the staff and feel appreciative and at ease with the environment, with an anticipation of looking forward to a moment well spent."

Given the above, the best Maitre d'hôtel I have ever encountered is Jean Marie at Taillevent. Jean Marie does everything right - he is Taillevent's best ambassador. He makes you want to come back even though the food does not measure up to the service. The question, then, becomes would you return to a restaurant where the food is good, not great, but the service is exceptional?

[macrosan]

Lizzie, that's the guy I want !

[lizziee]

macrosan,

What is interesting is that on this same trip we were at another restaurant called Auberge de Templiers. The Maire d' was also exceptional. We started chatting and it turned out he had been trained by Jean Marie.

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate members' views on the extent to which a maitre d' role is to make every diner feel "special" in the restaurant (i.e., to make the diner perceive he is getting at least sufficient attention from the maitre d', if not special goodies).

[macrosan]

I think you know my quick, simple answer, Cabrales

None.

[Heston Service]

I never seem to notice the service in a restaurant where it is done well. It must be one of those thankless tasks where one gets no recognition for a job well done only abuse for the occasional slip up.

[thomas jerome newton]

i couldn't agree more heston, but i think that such sublimeness is the result of exquisite skill on the part of the maitre'd....they often are the unsung hero of the dining experience, it seems these days uncouth to tip the maitre'd seperatley from the waiter, but in some establishments, st. john for instance, i often palm a tenner to the guy, or gal in the suit if they have been especially charming or warming in the attention they pay to me and my guests....anyone think that's uncouth?...come on folks...why not?!?!