StudioKitchen (2002-2007)

[David McDuff]

Hmm, yes.... Dehydrated yellow tomatoes reconstituted with elderflower syrup accompanied by cauliflower ice cream, washed down with Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, Oremus 1999.

[wkl]

thankyou david! my memories a touch hazy this morning.

i have this mental image of philadining snoring away in bed, the alarm clock ringing away, lots of high tech photography equipment strewn across the floor...............

[philadining]

I blame Katie and Matt (no, not the Today Show hosts, I mean the maniacs who kept me engaged in amusing eG gossip until 2 freaking thirty!!) Nonetheless... standby...

[shacke]

I blame Katie and Matt (no, not the Today Show hosts, I mean the maniacs who kept me engaged in amusing eG gossip until 2 freaking thirty!!) Nonetheless... standby...

←

(Insert loud banging of forks and knives on table here)

[philadining]

StudioKitchen, January 10, 2006

Sunchoke and Foie Gras Veloute, Pistachio Praline

Braised Oxtail Rigatoni, Parmesan, Roasted Chicken Jus

Roasted Foie Gras

Yuzu Kosho

Pineapple Tomatillo Ravioli

Liquid Pistachio-Lemon Praline

Tranche of Sea Scallop

Chanterelle and Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Horseradish Emulsion

Truffle Syrup

Bluefoot Chicken Ravioli

Pickled Celery Hearts

Crispy Sweetbreads, Poha Crust

Toasted Jasmine Rice Jus

Kurobuta Pork Duo

Shoulder Braised In Lindemans Peche

Crisp Belly, Guinness-Malt Butter

Fennel Infused Butter Bean Purée

La Tur and Buttermilk Soup

"Olives", Fennel Pollen, Arugula

Armando Manni Olive Oil "Per Me"

Preserved Yellow Roma Tomatoes, Elderflower Syrup, Cauliflower Ice Cream

Chocolate-Chestnut Sorbet

Smoked Cocoa , Aleppo Pepper and Muscovado Sugar

Oreo Puree, Sweet Cauliflower Glacage

Mandarin Orange

(edited to add menu descriptions)

Edited January 11, 2006 by philadining (log)

[Mummer]

Damn, Philadining...and you removed the preliminary menu from the ISO thread.

Not only is it fun guessing what's on those plates while trying to remember what was posted yesterday, but another SK game is one of how far Shola decided to stray from the advanced menu.

Not that I've ever complained about his creative wandering...

[philadining]

Most of the preparations stayed fairly close to the advance menu, but there were a few extras tossed in. We got lucky that Shola was feeling experimental, one can't generally expect 9 courses!

[David McDuff]

I'll try to add some plain old text and, of course, some menu commentary, to philadining's fantastic images.  The numbered courses (first through sixth) were essentially the dishes presented on Shola's original menu.  The amuse(s) and the "special course" were graciously accepted add-ons.

After milling about and starting with an aperitif -- Cremant d'Alsace, Domaine Barmes-Beucher 2003 -- ten of us sat down and experienced an exceedingly memorable meal, one of the most envelope-pushing of Shola's dinners.

Amuse-Bouche 1: 

Sunchoke and foie gras veloute, Pistachio praline

This was a tall, warm shot of richly creamy soup, with the vegetal flavors of the artichoke playing the lead along with a strong dairy component.  The foie gras was a whisper of richness in the background.

Wine: Vouvray Demi-Sec, Foreau 2003

Amuse-Bouche 2: 

Braised Oxtail rigatoni, Parmesan, Roasted chicken jus

Winter comfort food at its best.  I could easily have made a meal of this in a larger format given the opportunity.

Wine: Carneros Pinot Noir “Reserve,” Saintsbury 2000

First Course:

Roasted Foie Gras, Yuzu Kosho, Pineapple and Green Tomato Chutney, Liquid Pistachio-Lemon Praline

There was a fantastic interplay between sweetness and acidity, richness and delicacy, and liquid and solid textures in this dish.  The duo of the Yuzo relish and the pineapple/tomato chutney really brought things together.

Wine: Jurançon, Domaine Larredya 2003

Second Course:

Tranche of Sea Scallop, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Horseradish Emulsion, Truffle Syrup

Though the menu refers to sea scallops, Shola actually mentioned using dry China bay scallops.  The size suggested by the photo comes not from slicing an individual scallop but rather from making a terrine, pressed for about a day, which was then sliced for presentation.  The results were a firm snap of the sweet scallop flesh, played off against the dark earthy flavors of the black trumpets and black truffles.  A fresh pea or three added just the right amount of springier, green flavor.

Wines: Collio Bianco, Borgo del Tiglio 2002

and

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Morgeot,” Louis Latour 2002

Third Course:

Bluefoot Chicken Ravioli, Choucroute of Celery, Crispy Sweetbreads, Toasted Jasmine Rice Jus

If I had to pick a favorite course of the evening, this would have to be it.  For the sake of fun and/or experimentation, the dish was topped by a "choucroute" or sauerkraut made of celery.  Hiding beneath this was an unexpected hint of fiery heat provided by a lemon and japanese pepper relish.  These were the accents dancing around the beautifully tender chicken and decadently rich, boldly flavored sweetbreads.

Wines: Sonoma Coast “Kanzler Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Kosta Browne 2002 (corked)

and

Finger Lakes Riesling (Dry), Hermann J. Wiemer 2004

Fourth Course:

Kurobuta Pork Duo, Shoulder Braised in Lindemans Peche, Crisp Belly, Guinness-Malt Butter, Fennel Infused Butter Bean Puree

A close second for me, this "two-way" pork dish seemed the overwhelming favorite of the group.  On its own, the braised shank, meltingly tender, could easily have carried the show.  However, it was upstaged by the crisp belly, cooked sous-vide for 72 hours at very low tempterature (specifics anyone?) then roasted for another 6 hours at 250 degrees.  The results were a crisp yet tender texture and intensely concentrated but not overpowering flavor.

Wines:  Crozes-Hermitage “Clos des Grives,” Domaine Combier 2000

and

Barossavale Shiraz, Gibson 2002

Fifth Course:

La Tur and Buttermilk Soup, “Olives,” Fennel Pollen, Arugula, Armando Manni Olive Oil “Per Me”

"La Tur" is a cow/sheep/goat milk cheese from Piedmont, triple cream, rich and tangy.  Its flavor was intensified by a splash of buttermilk in this soup-like preparation.  The "olives" were actually a grape, cherry and blueberry (not visible in picture), each infused with various herbs and spices before being frozen.  The arugula and olive oil added a satisfying hint of vegetality.

Wine: Moscato d’Asti, G.D. Vajra 2004

Special Course:

Preserved Yellow Roma Tomatoes Reconstituted with Elderflower Syrup, Cauliflower Ice Cream

I could have called this the mystery course rather than the special course, as Shola put us on the spot to guess the ingredients.  The bright tang of the "fresh" yellow tomatoes was hit upon by most.  The cauliflower ice cream, on the other hand, was a toughie.  Kudos to wkl to coming up with it.  Oh yeah, and it was delicious.

Wine: Tokaji Aszu “5 Puttonyos,” Oremus 1999

Sixth Course:

Chocolate-Chestnut Sorbet, Smoked Cocoa Nibs, Aleppo Pepper and Muscovado Sugar, Oreo Puree, Mandarin Orange

A quartet of distintct, pure, separate flavors to end the night.  The smoked cocoa, aleppo pepper and muscovado was perhaps the most interesting flavor on the plate.  The chocolate-chestnut sorbet was the most comforting -- the leftovers were gobbled up with abandon.  For whimsicality, I guess, or just because they taste good, the cookie parts only of Oreos (yes, the real things but with the creme removed) were presented as a midnight black pool on the plate and highlighted by a glowingly orange streak of mandarin orange essence.  Distinct and pure on their own, all four at once still managed to deliver harmony and a tasty end to an unbelievable meal.

Wines: Jerez Pedro Ximenez “La Cosecha” Sacristia, Bodegas San Telmo NV

and

Jerez Pedro Ximenez “1927 Solera,” Alvear NV

and

Vieux Pineau des Charentes, Pascal Fillioux NV

Edited to add Shola's official descriptions of the extra courses.

Edited January 11, 2006 by David McDuff (log)

[BryanZ]

The fact that I could've been at this meal makes me so very sad.

[docsconz]

New SK and Alinea photos on the same day. What visual feasts!

[Capaneus]

Couple of quick comments: for anyone who hasn't noticed, the first amuse-bouche and the first course used much the same ingredients. The joke was on us, as the two dishes had very little in common: the veloute was all silky warm richness, not so much one-note as a beautiful chord; the first course, in contrast (and to murderize a metaphor), was all about counterpoint, separate flavors, textures, temperatures all meeting in concordant harmony. Both the Jurancon and the Vouvray worked well with both dishes, though I preferred the added acidity of the Vouvray.

The braised oxtail ravioli was a sharp reminder that there is nothing wrong with simple. Shola was almost apologetic about this dish, but I thought it was delicious. In a perfect world, it would have paired better with a bigger red, maybe one of the several Syrahs/Shirazes that went unopened. We went with the Saintsbury because this particular vintage is especially light-bodied and has bracing acidity, so as not to wreck the sequencing.

The tranche of scallop was wonderful, sweet and melting. It did leave me wondering how the dish would have come off if Shola had chosen to use a more strongly-flavored sea-creature instead. Another day. The Latour was perfect with this dish, all unobtrusive Burgundian perfection. Not a flashy wine, but wonderfully balanced, and terrifically food-friendly.

The chicken ravioli topped with sweetbreads and celery choucroute was my favorite dish of the evening as well. The sweetbreads, as it turned out, were not crisped, but braised to silky softness, so that they virtually melted on the palate. The final impression was of the richest chicken dish I've ever encountered, accented by the snappy crunch and tangy zing of the celery. Delicious. The wines... well, I now know that I cannot, as I've long suspected, detect TCA taint. The Pinot seemed to me delicious, with a good deal more earth and structure than most California Pinots of my acquaintance.

The pork duo was wonderful as well, though I distinctly preferred the belly as well. The braised shoulder was very tasty, but the fatty, crisp, much richer belly was unfair competition. The two syrahs were textbook examples of diverging styles, precisely as one would expect them: the Gibson silky, vanillin-laced and rich, the Combier earthy, structured and dark.

Cheese soup. Yeah. Good. A delightfully deconstructed cheese course, the Sholives incorporating into the dish the contrapuntal fruit and spice of a traditional presentation. The Moscato was delightful, though maybe a tad light for the pungent La Tur.

The Special Course. My brain is in conflict over this one. Reason and Logic tell me with no doubt whatever that I could not have liked this dish. "We don't like cauliflower", they tell me, "and what the Heck is elderflower syrup, anyway!?". Sense and Memory disagree violently, as I retaste the silky cool barely-vegetal ice cream, the tangy-sweet tomato, the... I liked it, but I know I shouldn't have. Maybe the fault, dear Brutus, is not in our palates but in our wine: Tokay is, to paraphrase Franklin's quip, clear evidence of God's love. And the survival of the Tokay industry through a half-century of neglect and downright hostility is proof of the resilience of the human spirit. Wonderful, much-neglected stuff, at a fraction of the cost of a comparable Sauternes or TBA. Shhhh!, tell no-one.

Nothing to add to the comments on the dessert, other than to say I am happy those photographs did not survive as mortifying evidence. And the two sherries and the Pineau de Charentes made a perfectly graduated flight, ascending in nuttiness and sweetness. Not planned in the least, just another happy happenstance in a glorious meal.

Thanks for putting this together, Jeff. It may have been my favorite SK experience yet.

Edited January 12, 2006 by Capaneus (log)

[philadining]

A few thoughts about dinner:

First, big thanks to everyone for coming, it was great to see some new folks, and it's always a pleasure to dine with the SK veterans! Extra thanks to Kelly and to Bill M for being spontaneous, I trust you both thought it was a good decision! And a tip of the glass to David and John who were extra generous with the wines and pairing expertise, many thanks!

Sunchoke and foie gras veloute, Pistachio praline

Wine: Vouvray Demi-Sec, Foreau 2003

I've had many soups at SK that were structured like this: rich, silky, creamy, but usually without a drop of cream. That textural similarity doesn't reduce in the least how enjoyable they are each time. This one was no disappointment, full and round, with a nutty aura. I culd have eaten a bowl of this, but I'm glad I didn't given how much food was to come. The Vouvray provided a nice bright contrast to these darker flavors.

 Braised Oxtail rigatoni, Parmesan, Roasted chicken jus

Wine: Carneros Pinot Noir “Reserve,” Saintsbury 2000

This almost seemed out-of-place at SK, as David said, it was pure, satisfying comfort food, just with an unusually refined preparation. There were some nice concentrated tomato flavors in the filling that gave a good acid bite to the oxtail. These flavors knocked our wine progression out of whack a little, but what, you thought we were going to turn it down? This crowd doesn't get too uptight about that kind of thing, we just popped a Pinot, which went very nicely.

Roasted Foie Gras, Yuzu Kosho, Pineapple and Green Tomato Chutney, Liquid Pistachio-Lemon Praline

Wine: Jurançon, Domaine Larredya 2003

Thin slices of Pineapple wrapped-up a sweet-yet-tangy chutney, chunky with green tomatoes, studded with golden raisins. Those clean, fruity flavors balanced the richness of the foie, which had been dusted with a subtle sprinkle of Yuzu Kosho. I thought the wine was absolutely perfect with this (OK it could have been colder, but no biggie...)

Tranche of Sea Scallop, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Horseradish Emulsion, Truffle Syrup

Wines: Collio Bianco, Borgo del Tiglio 2002

and

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Morgeot,” Louis Latour 2002

This was really quite vividly-flavored, with a nice salty marine intensity to the concentrated scallop terrine. I loved dragging chunks of this through the truffle, or the horseradish. Both wines were very good, but it's hard to beat a nice White Burgundy with scallops and truffles...

Bluefoot Chicken Ravioli, Choucroute of Celery, Crispy Sweetbreads, Toasted Jasmine Rice Jus

Wines: Sonoma Coast “Kanzler Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Kosta Browne 2002 (corked)

and

Finger Lakes Riesling (Dry), Hermann J. Wiemer 2004

I'll second David's vote for this as my favorite course of the night. The ravioli would have been just great on its own, but the just barely crispy sweetbreads perched on top somehow managed to meld together with the chicken and pasta, making it a super-rich, coherent whole. A little smear of lemon and sancho pepper on top would occasionally poke through with a sharp, wasabi-ish bite, which I found quite enjoyable. The two wines took these flavors in completely different directions, both of which were places I'd go again. The more refined palates noticed that the Pinot was corked, but it was pretty subtle, and I don't think I'd even have noticed. I'm partial to this Riesling, and despite some razzing from one of our crew, I stand by this wine as a good companion to these flavors.

Kurobuta Pork Duo, Shoulder Braised in Lindemans Peche, Crisp Belly, Guinness-Malt Butter, Fennel Infused Butter Bean Puree

Wines:  Crozes-Hermitage “Clos des Grives,” Domaine Combier 2000

and

Barossavale Shiraz, Gibson 2002

Again, I'll agree with David about this being a very close second in the favorite dish race, and for sheer hedonistic indulgence, it would be way out ahead. The pork shoulder was wonderfully tender and flavorful from the beer braise, but the belly was just outrageous. It was crispy, yet tender, pleasantly rich, but not overly so as the long, slow cooking had melted away a large part of the fat. The Guinness-malt butter was hard to describe...but delicious. Even Shola would admit that this presentation wasn't going to win any design awards, this plate was all about the flavors, so I don't think anyone was too disturbed by the weird eddies and swirls at the boundary of the very tasty bean purée and the sauce. I'll take a great-tasting dish over a pretty one any day!

Both wines were quite good, but both seemed a touch too big and edgy to me for this particular pork.

La Tur and Buttermilk Soup, “Olives,” Fennel Pollen, Arugula, Armando Manni Olive Oil “Per Me”

Wine: Moscato d’Asti, G.D. Vajra 2004

This was working on so many levels: each component was quite interesting, but the interactions were where the real fireworks got going. A little cheesey soup and a long-marinated fruit, or that fruity flavor splashed with the assertively peppery olive oil, all three with at strong bite of arugula...always changing, always exciting on the palate. And jeeze, that's some good oil. I thought the moscato was incredible, and just perfect with this particular cheese flavor.

Preserved Yellow Roma Tomatoes Reconstituted with Elderflower Syrup, Cauliflower Ice Cream

Wine: Tokaji Aszu “5 Puttonyos,” Oremus 1999

OK, this was freaking weird. A nice acidic cool tomato salad, topped with a tangy cold cream, touched with a hint of cauliflower, in a flowery syrup... I can't say I've had anything quite like that before! After a few tastes, I really loved it, but my palate was a bit perplexed for a few moments. Oh, and who knew? Next time you are served Yellow Tomatoes with cauliflower ice cream, insist on this Tokaji, it's an almost perfect match.

Chocolate-Chestnut Sorbet, Smoked Cocoa Nibs, Aleppo Pepper and Muscovado Sugar, Oreo Puree, Mandarin Orange

Wines: Jerez Pedro Ximenez “La Cosecha” Sacristia, Bodegas San Telmo NV

and

Jerez Pedro Ximenez “1927 Solera,” Alvear NV

and

Vieux Pineau des Charentes, Pascal Fillioux NV

This was an intense, complex, yet primally satisfying ending for this epic meal. On one level it was just a big honking chocolate bomb (no complaints there!) but with enough unexpected flavors from the crunchies under the sorbet, the stripe of orange flavor, the faint whiff of smoke, to avoid being overbearing.

An embarrassment of Sherry riches at the end, jeeze, they all tasted great to me!

Thanks again to everyone for the thoughtful and generous wine selections, the good conversation, a fun time all around. And of course to Shola for amazing us yet again...

Edited January 12, 2006 by philadining (log)

[percyn]

Indeed, a very memorable SK dinner.

Since it has already been well documented by Jeff and others, allow me to offer a few shots from alternate angles and close-ups. Hey, if I don't contribute something, they will stop inviting me to these things

The wine line-up...and this was only 3/4 of it

Lets not forget the box of Charcoal biscuits with some Manchego cheese we shared at the end of this long lavish meal.

And if this picture does not sum up how good the dinner was, I don't know what will

Edited January 12, 2006 by percyn (log)

[mrbigjas]

i am of course willing to debated, but i think every great dinner in the PA forum should end with that pic.

[KatieLoeb]

I blame Katie and Matt (no, not the Today Show hosts, I mean the maniacs who kept me engaged in amusing eG gossip until 2 freaking thirty!!) Nonetheless... standby...

←

We're a lot more fun than those early AM stiffs anyway. And the liklihood of my being confused with that other Katie (same named partner-in-crime aside) is pretty low. I've never been a morning person...

I unfortunately missed this glorious feast as I was working, but I did catch up with the crew toward the tail end of this lovely dinner. It's nice to bat cleanup with the wine bottles when they've come this well armed.

And of course I wouldn't miss seeing what happens to the last of the ice cream, as evidenced in the photo above.

[I_call_the_duck]

Thanks for the pics and descriptions, philadining and percyn. Everything of course, looked absolutely incredible. I say this every time someone posts pics, but it looks like Shola has outdone himself again. This should satisfy my SK cravings until I go there in a couple of weeks.

[Capaneus]

i am of course willing to debated, but i think every great dinner in the PA forum should end with that pic.

←

Hey, would that mean I'd get to be at every great dinner in the PA forum? I like, I say, I like the sound of that, Sonny!

[percyn]

i am of course willing to debated, but i think every great dinner in the PA forum should end with that pic.

←

Hey, would that mean I'd get to be at every great dinner in the PA forum? I like, I say, I like the sound of that, Sonny!

←

Not necessarily. It just means this pic would end up in the post

But who could resist inviting such a noted after-dinner raconteur?

[M.X.Hassett]

Well not much to add. Other then WOW. Thanks Shola and everyone else for great food, wine, and lively discussion. See you all again soon.

[ferky]

I just wanted to boast that I will be dining at StudioKitchen tonight for the second time. Below is the menu that Shola emailed out, but there will be some modifications as two diners (myself included) are allergic to nuts.

> > Carrot Ginger Soup

> > Miso Glazed Fuji Apples

> > Vapors of Orange

> >

> > Mushroom Risotto

> > Rabbit Confit

> > Almond Milk

> >

> > Roasted Maya Shrimp

> > Asian Pear, Yuzu Kosho

> > Lemon Brown Butter

> >

> > Wagyu Beef Tri-Tip Steak

> > Short Rib Ravioli

> > Onion Marmalade

> > Parsnip Mousse

> > Jus Roti

> >

> > Chocolate Chestnut Sorbet

> > Butterscotch Fondue

> > Crispy Rice, Smoked Cocoa Nibs

[philadining]

StudioKitchen, January 28, 2006

Lobster Scrambled Eggs, Fines Herbes, Marscarpone, "Americaine" Nage

I'm SO sad Percy wasn't here to experience this.... It was creamy, luxurious, truly decadent-tasting. This would be an incredible brunch dish, or indeed perfect breakfast on a cold sunday morning. But I'm happy to eat eggs anytime, so I thought it made a great starter for this dinner.

We'd had already opened some good Champagne to start, and I couldn't imagine anything better to drink with this, so we kept pouring...

Spicy Foie Gras "Nimono", Yellowfoot Chanterelles, Burdock Root, Shaved Bonito

I could have just inhaled the aromas wafting up from this bowl and gone home happy, it had such a beautiful perfume, evoking a homey slow-simmered Japanese stew. And the taste of it recalled those same traditional Japanese flavors, although one would probably expect unagi rather than foie gras. I was glad to have that seared foie though, bringing a level of elegance to this fundamentally comforting dish.

Butternut Squash Soup, Sweet Spices, Quail Eggs, Chicken Salmorejo

I've had several variations on squash soup here, and they are elbowing one another for their places in line, they were all pretty spectacular. How does one choose? The version accented by lemon vapors and stewed apples, or roasted pheasant, or this one with a tiny poached egg and vinegary chicken? I'll take any of them, but this last one was awesome.

A dry NY Gewurztraminer from Hazlitt was almost right with this, but it needed a little more heft and spiciness. A bigger Gewurtz would have been perfect.

Squid Ink Bomba Rice, Stewed Cuttlefish and Blue Crab,

Piperade Jus, Fennel Pollen, Manni Olive Oil

All the risotto-like dishes I've been getting here lately have been made with Spanish rice, and I'm not sure how much that ingredient has to do with it, or if it's all technique, but I just love the texture Shola gets with still slightly firm rice in a just-barely loose sauce. The seafood gave a nice tender chew and light marine flavor.

A Grgich Fumé Blanc matched really nicely here, the bright flavors cutting the density of the creamy rice, and complimenting the fish.

Pan Roasted Quail, Scottish Wood Pigeon Ravioli, Bergamot Scented Prunes

Chestnut Puree, Peppered Prune Jus

The quail was roasted to a perfect medium rare, still juicy and surprisingly bold-flavored for such a delicate little bird. The ravioli had an ethereal spice to it from a dash of Sancho pepper, and the peppery fruity jus tied it all together neatly. I enjoyed both elements of this dish, but the peppery ravioli really hangs in my memory, especially in contrast with a chunk of fruit.

The Prunes cried out for Pinot, and we opened two French Burgundies, the LaTour Beaune that we've all been pretty fond of around here, and one from my stash of Billard 1er Cru Beane "Les Epinottes" for what Pedro dubbed a "diagonal tasting". I liked both wines, but might reluctantly agree with Pedro and Diann that the LaTour was a little better here. An even more fruity Californian might have been good too.

Breast of Veal "Saltimbocca", Boudin of "Ris De Veau" Braised Veal Cheek

Vanilla-Turnip Fondant, Rainwater Madiera Jus, Cepe and Horseradish Emulsion

Veal three ways: a breast rolled with prosciutto and sage, slowly poached sous-vide; a "sausage" of sweetbreads; a falling-apart cheek. The breast was amazingly tender and juicy and bold with sage flavor. The sweetbreads had a soft, almost bread-pudding texture, contributing a subtle richness. I generally like sweetbreads crisped-up a little more, but this version was quite nice in combination with the cheeks perched on top. The cheeks themselves had a very big flavor, and that pleasant, just barely gelatinous texture that makes them so addictive. But the part that really had me shaking my head in amazement was the purée of turnip, brightened with a bold note of vanilla. Those two flavors were unexpectedly simpatico, and then blended with the veal and the madiera flavors in a profound way. Wow, vanilla turnips... a new fave.

And wait - - was that a little raft of green beans?!? And carrots under the veal breast? Like, conventional veg on a StudioKitchen plate!!?! (You know, it was good!)

Right around this time the wine situation stated getting a little confusing, I know we had a Chateauneuf de Pape that I liked with this, and more more.... wine scribe!! help!!

And the much-anticipated appearance of The AntiGriddle...

which enabled the creation of:

Cauliflower-Mandarin Orange Antipancake

(OK, I'll admit it, I made up the name...)

The raw materials, the dark-batter for our anti-pancakes, was similar to the foundation of the Cauliflower Ice Cream to come, but the addition of mandarin orange syrup, and the novel preparation made it into a whole new thing. A quick freeze on the subzero surface gave these little discs an almost chewy texture, and created a fascinating succession of flavors as the ingredients warmed at their own pace: orange, then cauliflower, then orange again... crazy. Cool.

Peach – Ginger Confit, Cauliflower Ice Cream, Frozen Mint Oil

Demerara-Olive Crumble, Elderflower Syrup

This cauliflower ice cream was more delicately flavored than the version I had at a previous visit, or perhaps it just harmonized better with the peach. Whatever the reason, it was delicious. The crunch provided by the crumble under the ice cream was fascinating itself: nutty, sugary, then pulled back by a salty hint of olive.

We had a sudden wave of Moscato, all of which were pretty darn good here, but the Two Hands was just about perfect, with its peachy, flowery nose.

There were several more bottles of wine opened during and after dinner, we had a rather disturbing amount of wine, 16 bottles among the 8 of us, perhaps a few too many, given the ultimate condition of more than one of our party...

Full list to follow, maybe, if our designated wine scribe can find his notes!

Thanks for putting this together Karen, and for the invite. And thanks Shola, for another incredible meal!

Edited January 30, 2006 by philadining (log)

[Vadouvan]

The Irony of scrambled eggs on a chiiiiiiiiiily sunday morning philadining..

He he...

[docsconz]

Wow! If this is not a meal to travel for, I do not know what is. Freakin' spectacular. Jeff, your photos are as stunning as the food itself. I look forward to the commentary. I sure can't wait to get there myself.

You and the other "regulars" are certainly enjoying a special experience as you are part of the evolution of this phenomenon.

[mrbigjas]

wow. you know, one of the interesting things about you guys going so often is seeing similar bits and pieces of things turn up in different dishes. like the bergamot prunes, the 'olives,' the chicken escabeche that showed up in about four different preparations over the course of several meals a few months ago...

and wow, 16 bottles of wine? lord have mercy.

[Daniel]

I was there last night for dinner.. It was an amazing meal.. The soup was the best I have ever had.. Everything was perfect.. Shola is such a talented artist.. One of the more impressive meals I have ever had. I cant think of another restaurant I would rather go to more then I want to return here.. Thanks everyone..