March 2006, One new one – “L’histoire de...” And

[John Talbott]

March 2006, One new one – “L’histoire de...” And lots of old ones: Drouant, Ze, Cerisaie, Repaire, Bistral, Anges, Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Au Bon Accueil, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine, Maxan

This month, Colette and I did our traditional dining binge with friends from downstairs. The only new/changed place eGullet member Paga and I tried was:

5.0 L’Histoire de…, a ten year old place, walking distance from home in the 18th, at 14, rue Ferdinand Flocon, 01.42.52.24.60, closed Sundays, lunch menu at 29 € and a la carte about 35 € (our bill was 72 € at night.) The place has had a tough decade. It was started by two established chefs who cooked great stuff, then one departed (don’t ask, I dunno) and his name was blacked off the menu; then just a few years ago I went alone and thought that the remaining guy was tired and he and his equally fatigued wife needed to move on. They did. And now, for 18 months, a new young chef and enthusiastic young team moved in and what a renaissance. The amuse bouche was a lovely creamy, smooth chicken liver spread with a parmesan “biscuit;” then we sort of shared a green salad and huge mackerel on top of shaved carrots and an onion compote, then veal with anchovy sauce and a trio of duck (untraditionally confited, force meat-stuffed cabbage and almost raw inside/burned outside magret – perfect) and all accompanied by a plain old 18th Arr. Bordeaux Superieur from the Chateau Senailhac.

Otherwise we ate at ‘golden oldies” to be categorized as follows:

“Holding up” Drouant, Ze Kitchen Galerie, La Cerisaie, Le Bistral, Les Anges, Le Repaire de Cartouche, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine

“Inconsistent and troubled/troublesome” Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Maxan.

“Off the list” – Au Bon Accueil.

Some explanation. Thierry Burlot looks like he’s up to his old tricks (bumping up the prices by having “more interesting” (read cheaper) wines unavailable and cutting down the choices on the menu (“the delivery guy didn’t show up” excuse can only be used so many times); Maxan, after several independent visits, when it was impressive, seemed boring, flat and without character and Pinxo seems to have run out of tricks – the chipirons and duck breast were OK but the scallops were off. Au Bon Accueil, was always off and on, maybe it was just off that day, but no more chances with that poor quality fish product and tired mashed/smashed potatoes.

À Avril (Until April).

[pierre45]

March 2006, One new one – “L’histoire de...” And lots of old ones: Drouant, Ze, Cerisaie, Repaire, Bistral, Anges, Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Au Bon Accueil, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine, Maxan

Otherwise we ate at ‘golden oldies” to be categorized as follows:

“Holding up”  Drouant, Ze Kitchen Galerie, La Cerisaie, Le Bistral, Les Anges, Le Repaire de Cartouche, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine

“Inconsistent and troubled/troublesome” Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Maxan.

“Off the list” – Au Bon Accueil.

Some explanation.  Thierry Burlot looks like he’s up to his old tricks (bumping up the prices by having “more interesting” (read cheaper) wines unavailable and cutting down the choices on the menu (“the delivery guy didn’t show up” excuse can only be used so many times); Maxan, after several independent visits, when it was impressive, seemed boring, flat and without character and Pinxo seems to have run out of tricks – the chipirons and duck breast were OK but the scallops were off. Au Bon Accueil, was always off and on, maybe it was just off that day, but no more chances with that poor quality fish product and tired mashed/smashed potatoes.

John. i agree with you about T burlot.Indeed he has reduced the # of good choices in the fixed price menu and the wine list has no decent reasonable wines.

You are right that its an old trick.When he opened a few years ago his fixed menu had a lot of inventive choices and then prices climbed to 55 E.I went back when he reintroduced the 32 E menu.

HE IS a talented chef however and his restaurant is a good one but no longer good value.

[John Talbott]

John. i agree with you about T burlot.Indeed he has reduced the # of good choices in the fixed price menu and the wine list has no decent reasonable wines.

You are right that its an old trick.When he opened a few years ago his fixed menu had a lot of inventive choices and then prices climbed to 55 E.I went back  when he reintroduced the 32 E menu.

HE IS a talented  chef however and his restaurant is a good one but no longer good value.

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Ah Pierre, that is precisely our experience. Too bad really. For a year when he opened and a year until now it was great. But I guess he cannot resist bumping the price up and reducing the choices. I just looked back at my "reappraisal" post and ironically it was almost precisely a year ago.

[John Talbott]

I tried to find a topic on the Repaire de Cartouche and was rather surprised that there wasn't one but 3 pages of references in other topics.

In any case, we went again today and while Rodolfe wasn't there (he's just opened the offshoot in Bercy, see the Digest), the food was impecable:

Rilettes with dense bread - heaven!

A cream of aspargus with foie gras that looked like mushroom soup, equally good.

Scallops with roe and vegetables that were very good.

A tete de cochon crusty and crispy with lentils and ham, nickel.

A crumble of pear that Colette thought was very good.

A chocolate with rhum sauce, quite as well fine.

With a bottle of "You are so Nice" (from Nice, France, pun, pun), 2 coffees and no bottled water = 80 Euros.

Patricia Wells (I believe) said one must go back here once a year and I'd agree.

[John Talbott]

To find the most recent news on Ze I would refer you to Pierre45's recent post. I recuse myself.