Offal... again... too un-hip?

[Maliaty]

Aqua Luna in Sydney used to do divine marrow on toast.

My mother (a farm girl by background) was nuts for offal - kidneys, lamb fry etc. I like chicken gizzards myself. My partner is quite the man for liver - although I'm only going to join him if it's pink on the inner. And we both fight over the inside of the lamb shanks....

It's all good. And honest.

Maliaty

[Parmhero]

Mr Leopold Bloom ate with relish the inner organs of beasts and fowls. He liked thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liverslices fried with crustcrumbs, fried hencods' roes. Most of all he liked grilled mutton kidneys which gave to his palate a fine tang of faintly scented urine.

Ulysses, James Joyce, Chapter 4.

[Shinboners]

I'm not sure if this falls into the category of "it's always been there, but you haven't noticed until now", BUT, in the last couple of weeks, I've noticed that many of the butchers at the Queen Vic market have been selling marrow bones.

I bought a few marrow bones and treated myself this morning to a breakfast of roast bone marrow with parsley salad (as per the Henderson recipe in Nose To Tail Eating). Whilst some of the marrow did dissolve into liquid, the marrow that did get through the roasting process was superb, and the dish as a whole was a joy.

[oesophagus]

Offal may be down, but it's certainly not out, and I think meat's recent renaissance in restaurants (driven, in part, by chefs' and diners' interest in the likes of wagyu beef and Berkshire pork) has put it back on the agenda. That and the fact that, as a rule, it's interesting to eat, fun to cook and pretty inexpensive.

Janni Kyritsis, the former MG Garage chef and high priest of Australian offal cooking (he once made a tablecloth of tripe for an Australian Symposium of Gastronomy), came out of retirement a couple of months ago to give a private cooking class solely concerned with offal for a small group of Sydney chefs and enthusiasts. You can read all about it here:

http://www.classic.com.au/wizard/Cookingwithfriends.htm

(Fergus Henderson received a copy of the recipes from the session with gracious thanks.)

And Australian Gourmet Traveller's July French issue contains a really nicely photographed recipe feature on offal which includes recipes for stuffed pig's ears, braised tripe, sweetbreads, tongue and more.

[piazzola]

We argentineans developed an art form of eating offal (achuras) pronounce achooras and proud of it since or bbq history dates back about 500 years

gauchos (cowboys) would normally dispatch a cow in few minutes have one whole side of the ribs with hide on settled on an iron cross near the dying fire and the rest is offal kidneys, glads , tripe,(sojme of it we call it chinchulin Chinese phonetics) liver,tongue, brains you name it we call this a mixed grill and this is what you get served in the top churraquerias parrillas or rodizios

It is very hard in Victoria to get offal though Vietnamese butchers carry some stock and they are frequented by Argentinean community

That's my two cents

[PCL]

I don't think Leopold Bloom was Australian, but I'm sure his compatriots in this country might still adhere to some of his habits, although most Irish descendants I know here turn up their noses in disgust.

Big week for offal for myself so far.

Last Tuesday night: Maris in Malvern, Glenferrie Rd: Braised Tripe in a Ragu, and Roasted Bone Marrow. They kind of mucked up the marrow... insufficient oven time... the bits of gristle on the bone should be charred, and the contents piping but still solid with only the slightest amount of fat oozing out the bottom.

Last Saturday night: Les Boucheries Parisienne in South Yarra: Lamb Brains wrapped with smoked belly pork, bacon to some.

Monday night: Tripe and Calve's Tongue at Grossi Florentino (Cellar Bar).

Will check out the link posted by oesophagus.

[Shinboners]

It's for all the reasons you've described. The concept was yes, rustic, but clean. No fuss. Good ingredients. And in my mind, reasonable.

The best thing was, really, the honesty.

←

Which describes what I cooked for my dinner last night.

Two 5mm thick slices of calves liver. Grill for 30 seconds on one side on a hot cast iron grill, turn over for another 30 seconds, another turn 30 seconds later, and one final turn (not forgetting to get that cool criss cross pattern on the livers). Sprinkle ome salt over it and served with some roasted vegetables.

The recipe was from Pignolet's "French" cookbook (and he got the recipe from Anne Taylor).

[Pat Churchill]

I grew up eating offal because my mother's hometown in Waitara, Taranaki had a large freezing works so there was a ready supply at the works shop. In fact her father (who hailed from Melbourne and maternal grandfather were butchers. My idea of heaven was my great aunt cooking me lambs' sweetbreads for breakfast - simmered first till tender then drained and fried.

At home Mum cooked lamb's fry, oxtail stews, steak and kidney pie (though she loathes kidneys they made it "taste better" she said), lambs' tongue in aspic and tripe and onions. My husband's mother didn't cook any of this stuff so he wouldn't touch it. I used to have to cook tripe when he and the kids were away somewhere.

Another thing Mum made was brawn. Wonderful stuff. She never cooked hearts, however, though a friend's mother used to stuff and braise sheep's hearts.

But in those days we rarely ate chicken. It wasn't freely available.

I stopped eating offal and eggs mainly because of contemporary concerns in the 70-80s about cholesterol. (Fat lot of good cholesterol abstinence did me!) I'm back on eggs in moderation and after tasting the wonderful crispy crumbed and fried pieces of tripe at the Ferguson Henderson dinner at The Point, even my husband is prepared to give it a try again. So maybe "variety meats" are due for a revival - perhaps our diet is lacking in "variety"

[Shinboners]

My idea of heaven was my great aunt cooking me lambs' sweetbreads for breakfast - simmered first till tender then drained and fried.

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Speaking of offal for breakfast, Aux Batifolles in Richmond has baked eggs with foie gras and port on its menu.

[Cedreena]

It's for all the reasons you've described. The concept was yes, rustic, but clean. No fuss. Good ingredients. And in my mind, reasonable.

The best thing was, really, the honesty.

←

Which describes what I cooked for my dinner last night.

Two 5mm thick slices of calves liver. Grill for 30 seconds on one side on a hot cast iron grill, turn over for another 30 seconds, another turn 30 seconds later, and one final turn (not forgetting to get that cool criss cross pattern on the livers). Sprinkle ome salt over it and served with some roasted vegetables.

The recipe was from Pignolet's "French" cookbook (and he got the recipe from Anne Taylor).

←

All the blood that must have poured on to your plate when you cut into the liver would have turned my stomach. Well done, I might enjoy it.

[Peter Green]

How can one not enjoy offal? It makes up so much of the animal! We don't kill things to let the majority go to waste.

Memorable dishes:

Canada

1. any Chinese restaurant worth its salt in Vancouver will have at least one if not more types of tripe on the menu.

2. the Ovaltine at Main and Hastings does very nice liver and kidney dishes. Plus, you get that pat of butter that still has the word "butter" embossed on it, so you don't get confused. Ask politely and they won't include any hypodermics.

UK

1. St. John - 'nuff said

2. La Rueda (?) - by the Marble Arch does a very good tripe and beans dish (but be prepared for the consequences later)

Italy

2. Trippa florentine is wonderful. It melts in your mouth, just washing away with the first glass of chianti.

Bahrain

1. Veal liver at Chico's

Egypt

1. the kebabs down by the Khan, with prairie oysters, kidneys, and who knows what else (I said memorable, I didn't say good).

Moscow

1. cod liver salad. Cafe Tonya I think it was. Beautiful little jewels.

Korea

1. Kop chang - typically have the large intestines stewed in a burning broth of chilis. To wake you up the next day after a hard night's drinking. (my favourite for this, though, was in a Korean restaurant in Hong Kong near the Star Ferry)

2. Kop chang - grilled, and eaten with shots of soju, to give you an excuse to eat the stew the next day

China

1. Spicy tripe and bamboo - in Kunming, although this was a Szechuan dish

2. Blood salad - a big bowl of congealed pig's blood laced through with chilis and herbs in Sipsawngbanna. Sort of an extroverted boudin noire

3. Sausages - do these count as tripe? The ones in Lijiang were a wonderful collection of blood and other bits.

Cambodia

1. Lots of stuff, but the brains stand out. Pig's brains , either steamed (Hang Neak) or deep fried (Mondulkiri Cafe)

2. Boudin Noire - Comme La Maison behind the monument has wonderful blood sausage.

Laos

1. My favourite for a name - from Pakse - stuffed virgin pig uterus. How do we know it was a virgin?

2. Raw pig entrail salad (in Luang Prabang) - the name says it all

Thailand

1. Don Muang Airport - the brew house - pig liver wrapped in bacon

Okay, I have to go back to work. but these are the ones I can still taste.

[Domestic Goddess]

The Philippines eat a lot of offal too. In my province of Cavite, we have spanish-influenced dishes like menuda (contains liver, heart, kidneys apart from beef cubes and pork cubes), callos (tripe in tomato sauce), pork brains torta (brain mixed with toasted garlic and egg and then fried into a patty).

Even street food has a lot of offal. There are weird and fun names for it too.

ADIDAS" - chicken's feet

"KURBATA" (necktie in Filipino) - either just chicken's neck, or "neck and thigh"

"WALKMAN" - pigs ears

"PAL" (Philippine Airlines - planes) -chicken wings

"HELMET" - chicken head

"IUD" - chicken intestines

"BETAMAX" - video-cassette-like blocks of animal blood

Oh we also grill chicken asses on a stick (about 5 or 6 small chicken butts roasted until golden brown). Yum! But I don't know the nickname for it.

[Peter Green]

The Philippines eat a lot of offal too. In my province of Cavite, we have spanish-influenced dishes like menuda (contains liver, heart, kidneys apart from beef cubes and pork cubes), callos (tripe in tomato sauce), pork brains torta (brain mixed with toasted garlic and egg and then fried into a patty).

Even street food has a lot of offal. There are weird and fun names for it too.

ADIDAS" - chicken's feet

"KURBATA" (necktie in Filipino) - either just chicken's neck, or "neck and thigh"

"WALKMAN" -  pigs ears

"PAL" (Philippine Airlines - planes) -chicken wings

"HELMET" - chicken head

"IUD" - chicken intestines

"BETAMAX" - video-cassette-like blocks of animal blood

Oh we also grill chicken asses on a stick (about 5 or 6 small chicken butts roasted until golden brown). Yum! But I don't know the nickname for it.

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Also from the P.I. - Balut! But does that count as offal?

I've had the grilled chicken butts in the UK. They were called "The Bishop's Nose" where I had them (no offense intended)

[Domestic Goddess]

Peter Green - Hmm... I wouldn't know how to classify Balut (Duck egg embryo) since it is a whole chick you are eating. I love Balut. I could eat 6 if I could. I love the 2-3 day Balut (the chick/embryo is about thumb-sized) and I made my hubby (whose American) go out in the middle of the night to buy some when I was pregnant with our youngest. Aaaah, balut.. the hot juices that come out when you crack the top og the egg. My comfort food....

[piazzola]

In Argentineans enjoy offal in many ways, but they are either bbq'd or cooked for winter stews.

For stews a dish called mondongo comes to mind.

Now as bbq's are an art form and offals feature prominently in a parrilla or asado alongside spare ribs and chorizos they are popularly knowns as chinchulines(long and short intestines) , mollejas (sweetbreads) some strange concoction of sounds.

[Pat Churchill]

Went to L'Oustal in Albert Park, Melbourne, the other night and one of the dishes included their own black pudding. The owner told us they have to get the pigs' blood from Western Australia. I've eaten a lot of black pudding in my lifetime (thanks to a grandfather who got me hooked on it when I was about 5) and theirs was pretty good.

BTW does anyone know where to get beef cheeks in Melbourne? I've got this recipe I picked up during the Slow Food week that my husband is very eager to sample - http://cookingdownunder.com/articles/2006/slowfood.htm

Two cups of port and one of red wine might have been the attraction

[PCL]

For all meat needs in Melbourne, please go visit Excell Meat Co. on Lygon St, Carlton. Ask for Frank, he owns the place, a real Italian butcher who knows everything and everyone. Tell him Pino sent you and then tell him what you need. For cheeks best to ring first... Shin, can you dig up their number, I um, don't have it handy!!

[Shinboners]

Excell Meat Company: 207 Lygon Street, Carlton Ph: 9347-5516

btw Pein, the next time I'm there, do you want me to say G'day to Frank for you?

Oh, and in regards to the ox cheeks, there are a couple of butchers at the Queen Victoria Market that carry them as part of their normal stock.

All the blood that must have poured on to your plate when you cut into the liver would have turned my stomach. Well done, I might enjoy it.

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Blood? When I've bought calves livers, which are sliced off one larger piece, there are no noticeable drops of blood. I'd say you see more blood when buying cryovaced meat.

And anyway, the liver is sliced 5mm thick, so it cooks quickly. If you it right, it's nice and pink in the middle.

Edited October 2, 2006 by Shinboners (log)

[annecros]

OH, you lovely, lovely people.

The Amercian South is the neo-home of offal, and its use via necessity. Chitterlings, utilized as a source of protein, should tip you off. Not JUST a sausage casing, but a source. We took the best of our cultural influences. And that is that.

Brains? Kindneys? Livers? Tripe? Sheesh. Been there, done that. Lots of Souse in the bargain. Any way you can use it, it has been used in the southern regions of the United Sates of America.

Trotters? No, we call them FEET. PIG'S FEET. They walk on them. And pigs only trot when they are feeling mean. Take it from someone who has been around pigs. When the feet are there for the eating, the pig is no longer feeling like trotting anywhere.

OK, off the soapbox.

ETA: I should have climbed down off the box, but one more observation from personal experience.

If you knew what pigs "trotted" in, and had a personal exposure to the environment across which they were "trotting" you would understand perfectly why the word "trotter" is just silly for the extremity on the pig.

"Feet" or "Foot" is doing it too much justice.

Now, I will go to bed, and worry this subject no more.

Edited October 2, 2006 by annecros (log)

[PCL]

So what's wrong with Australian diners then?

Is it the association with 'old fashioned' liver dinners? Or is it some throwback to anglo conservatism?

Being a multicultural society, it seems that Aussies are slow in embracing the wholesomeness of offal. One never finds trotters except at Chinese restaurants and some Vietnamese noodle joints that serve Bung Bo Hue.

Bistro cooking?? I mean, I want to see France Soir plate up pied d'cochon man...

And it seems we have enough of other cultures hanging about to fully diversify what the whole idea of offal goodness is all about. Why isn't it happening? Are chefs and diners too concerned with the latest fads? Sure, as a developing culture, still nascient in terms of culinary tradition, would it not be more wise to look within and to history for reference before striking out to a bold new world?

So, one gets off a soapbox and another begins to rant...

And Dan, sure, thanks, say hi to Frank for me... tell him I'll catch up with him before Christmas... hopefully...

[annecros]

So what's wrong with Australian diners then?

Is it the association with 'old fashioned' liver dinners? Or is it some throwback to anglo conservatism?

Being a multicultural society, it seems that Aussies are slow in embracing the wholesomeness of offal. One never finds trotters except at Chinese restaurants and some Vietnamese noodle joints that serve Bung Bo Hue.

Bistro cooking?? I mean, I want to see France Soir plate up pied d'cochon man...

And it seems we have enough of other cultures hanging about to fully diversify what the whole idea of offal goodness is all about. Why isn't it happening? Are chefs and diners too concerned with the latest fads? Sure, as a developing culture, still nascient in terms of culinary tradition, would it not be more wise to look within and to history for reference before striking out to a bold new world?

So, one gets off a soapbox and another begins to rant...

And Dan, sure, thanks, say hi to Frank for me... tell him I'll catch up with him before Christmas... hopefully...

←

Necessity?

I am asking, I honestly don't know.

[PCL]

So because there is plenty, the other bits are left to waste... so in the greater picture, its possible that its not necessary to consume offal. But some possible ramifications are:

Approximately 30-40% of the carcass is wasted because it's considered offal... sent to canneries, pet food companies, and ending up as sausages and yeah, dim sims!!!... so the toll to produce 'good' meat is increased... everyone only wants to eat the outside... not the inside and the dangly bits...

I think we're spoiled that's what. Necessity will encourage genius no? So whilst we're good at other things, we suck at cooking and eating offal... generally, that is, not specific cultures that have made Australia home... basically I'm talking about the mainstream...

The rant continues...

[Shinboners]

So what's wrong with Australian diners then?

Is it the association with 'old fashioned' liver dinners? Or is it some throwback to anglo conservatism?

Being a multicultural society, it seems that Aussies are slow in embracing the wholesomeness of offal. One never finds trotters except at Chinese restaurants and some Vietnamese noodle joints that serve Bung Bo Hue.

Bistro cooking?? I mean, I want to see France Soir plate up pied d'cochon man...

And it seems we have enough of other cultures hanging about to fully diversify what the whole idea of offal goodness is all about. Why isn't it happening? Are chefs and diners too concerned with the latest fads? Sure, as a developing culture, still nascient in terms of culinary tradition, would it not be more wise to look within and to history for reference before striking out to a bold new world?

So, one gets off a soapbox and another begins to rant...

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Well, someone must be eating offal as every restaurant in town seems to have at least one offal item on the menu. And I guess that a little bit of movement is better than none.

However, who is eating the stuff? I know I am....in fact, chatting to the maitre'd of France Soir after I had my main, he happily noted that I had the lambs brains for the entree....so either he's got a good memory OR not that many people eat it. Go to any French bistro in town, and I reckon that the vast majority of diners are happy with their salads as an entree and steak frites for their mains. Maybe it's just chefs cooking for other chefs, a few foodies, and those from the ethnic groups that still eat offal.

btw, does anyone know if any Melbourne restaurant does Koffman's stuffed pigs trotter? I know Becasse in Sydney does a version of it, but I don't think I'll be up in Sydney anytime soon.

[Shinboners]

everyone only wants to eat the outside... not the inside and the dangly bits...

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There's probably a couple of issues on why this happens.

Firstly, it's not a matter of taste and texture, but a purely psychological issue of, "oh, aren't those the bits that help the body get rid of waste?". They just can't get their heads around the idea that offal is cleaned by the time you cook it. Plenty of people are under the impression that offal will taste terrible, when in fact, they've never even tried it to make a proper judgement.

Secondly, there's an issue of price. Offal is cheap, so people don't think that it can be any good (or if it is, it's only good for pet food). Funnily enough, these same people probably don't have any problem with paying top dollar for their foie gras dish at Vue de Monde.

Thirdly, for most people, the post WW2 boom meant that most people can afford the prime cuts of meat, so offal was off the menu (so to speak).

Personally, I generally can't be bothered to talk people around. I just give them the option that if they want to try offal, then I'll happily have them around and I'll cook it. But if they're not interested, it's not me that loses out.

[PCL]

Why bother to talk? Just cook it anyways... plonk it on the table and I'm sure someone will be curious enough to try.

Talk is cheap. Action man, action!!