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Some 2002 to 2004 Wines


Florida Jim

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2004 Pazo Señorans, Albariño:

Under-ripe, tropical fruit nose; plenty of concentration, flavors echo the nose and nice balance on the palate with a very spicy and peppery finish. Seems just a bit tight so some cellaring may be in order. Varietally accurate, moderately complex and interesting. Good wine.

2004 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Côte de Brouilly:

Somewhat stemmy on the attack but ripe fruit across the palate and lots of nuance throughout. Could probably use a year in the cellar but is a balanced and engaging wine now with a bit of time in the decanter.

Dinner with friends:

With smoked trout spread in endive leaves:

2002 La Chablisienne, Chablis Cuvée L C:

Perfect pairing; the wine fitting into the smoked trout flavors as though it had been made to do it; bright, young Chablis with good ripeness and lovely mineral accents.

With duck ragu on pasta:

2003 Z’IVO, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley:

Somebody, of course, is kidding . . . this is from Oregon? With 16% alcohol?

Not even remotely bearing a resemblance to pinot noir, this wine is a vivid example of the “new and improved, homogenized-fruity-food-shake” that has to have been created by some marketing agency because it sure doesn’t taste like grapes; buy two; get one at twice the price! Absolutely, positively, as bad as the variety can get without being unpalatable. Port dates pinot, vodka crashes the tryst and Everclear gets the girl.

In the ‘can’t you say anything nice category,’ it didn’t reek of wood.

“Bad, bad wine; go lay down.”

After dinner:

2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay:

Not my favorite CRB gamay in the last several years but, after the foregoing blow-torch, a pleasing oasis and such a welcome respite from that “bulldozer style of alcoholic, fermentation beverage” as to be utterly sublime.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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Port dates pinot, vodka crashes the tryst and Everclear gets the girl.

In the ‘can’t you say anything nice category,’ it didn’t reek of wood.

“Bad, bad wine; go lay down.”

Jim, your posts are always great! Although I can't claim our own wines are tame when it comes to alcohol content, I too have been disappointed by some pinot noirs that were highly touted elsewhere, as in this post on the Oregon pinot noir thread:

2003 O'Reilly Pinot Noir, 13.5%, $14.99

The nose had volatile acidity, wet socks and blackberry, but in a pleasant kind of way.

The wine had darker color than the Eyrie, and was super-oaked, with flavors of black cherry, anise, and blackberry jam, with a finish of thyme and marjoram. I'm guessing these grapes were picked very ripe, with a high pH and that the wine is unfiltered.

It was almost too big for a true Pinot experience, but for $5 less, it was a much more satisfying experience than the Eyrie. And hey, it's got a dog on the label.

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If I was a practical joker I would serve Jim Cowen 03 Z'IVO Pinot Noir just to see the look on his face.

I tasted this hefty wine on a 100 degree day at IPNC. Jim, I wish you could have been with me.

Craig,

As much as I would enjoy your company, I suspect you would have not enjoyed my reaction.

But then, considering some of Mr. Rovani's, perhaps I would have been no trouble at all.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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If I was a practical joker I would serve Jim Cowen 03 Z'IVO Pinot Noir just to see the look on his face.

I tasted this hefty wine on a 100 degree day at IPNC. Jim, I wish you could have been with me.

Craig,

As much as I would enjoy your company, I suspect you would have not enjoyed my reaction.

But then, considering some of Mr. Rovani's, perhaps I would have been no trouble at all.

Best, Jim

No, I would have loved to see your face. I can't think of a wine less "Florida Jim-like" than that Pinot. I think Mr. Rovani might like it.

Edited by Craig Camp (log)
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