Chicago - Schwa - Prairie Grass Cafe - Butter

[molto e]

I will start with a tip of the cap to my Dad, Sunday night dinner: crab salad, crispy bone marrow and lamb four ways-shoulder, shank, leg and rack-not bad for a lawyer.

Schwa Restaurant Hours mon - sat 5:30-10:30 sun closed

1466 n ashland

Phone

773.252.1466

http://www.schwarestaurant.com/index2.htm

I had the pleasure of trying Schwa for dinner and I was very happy with meal. Chef Michael Carlson and Sous Chef Nathan Klingbail cooked, served and cleared on this particular evening. I do not remember a dining experience where the chefs were running the whole show. The dining room is very small, about 26 seats and this night there were two chefs from Alinea dining, a person from Charlie Trotter's, Spiaggia, and a few from Moto so needless to say the insiders know the quality of the fare coming out of the kitchen.

Chef Carlson heading back to the kitchen to bring out the next course

Chef Carlson worked with two of my favorite Chicago Chefs- Grant Achatz (Trio)and Paul Bartolotta (Spiaggia) so I knew that I was in store for a treat. What I did not know was that I would have one of my favorite dishes of the year! We went with the truffle tasting menu and brought our own wine as Schwa is BYOB/W.

Amuse:

Confit of eggplant, sliced radish, baby arugula and pickled ?

First Course:

White Anchovy- celery root puree, apple olive oil puree, shaved apples, manchego cheese

This is a salad to get a little bit of every thing in each bite

Second Course:

Prosciutto consomme- micro arugula, crispy prosciutto chip, melon

Third Course:

Beets- pickled beets, beet powder, beet glaze, parsley, goat cheese

Fourth Course:

Sweetbreads, Roasted Potato, Potato Puree, Rosemary, Taleggio, Truffle Honey and Shaved White Truffle

This is one of the best dishes that I have eaten all year. All the flavors melded perfectly and I really wanted another course of it. I wish I had eaten it slower- delicious!!!!!!!!!!!

Fifth Course:

Veal Cheeks, Sea Scallop, Golden Chanterelles, Brussel Sprout, Parsnip Puree, Truffles-very solid dish

Sixth Course:

Jerusalem Artichoke Puree with Raspberry Jelly and Sunflower Sprouts

Seventh Course:

Pork- belly, tenderloin, raisins, homemade saurkraut- very good

Eighth Course:

Concord Grape Sorbet

Ninth Course:

Spicy Charred Pineapple Upside Down Cake with Salty Caramel, Roasted Banana and Ginger Custard

Tenth Course:

Whipped Creme Fraiche, Chocolate Brownie, Ice Cream ?, Pumpkin Seeds and I am not sure what else

Schwa was great and I would definitely go back to try more of Chefs Carlson and Klingbail's creations. YOU MUST MAKE RESERVATIONS, because the room is very small. I only wish white truffle season was not coming to a close so I could have the Sweetbreads course again.

Prarie Grass Cafe

601 Skokie Blvd Northbrook Il, 60062 (847) 205-4433

http://www.prairiegrasscafe.com/index.cfm

I had the pleasure of meeting Ronnie S. for lunch and I do not think Ronnie will ever trust me to find my way to the burbs again. I arrived a little late to Northbrook via Barrington and got to try Prairie Grass for the first time.

Ron had the Crispy Chicken Breast Salad

I had the "Knife and Fork Chicken Club"

Cookies for dessert and as you can see a plate of cookies are no match for Ron and I

Prarie Grass Cafe is very solid with great service. I am glad that I did not stop at Charlie Beinlichs for a burger on the way, but it was tempting.

My last meal in Chicago was the best and it is on my list of best places to eat in town-RUN DON'T WALK TO BUTTER RESTAURANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Butter Restaurant

130 S. Green Street

t. 312-666-9813

http://www.butterchicago.com/

I have heard how good Butter was by a few of my friends, but I had not had the opportunity to try it. I am kicking myself that I did not come by sooner to sample Chef Ryan Poli's work. Owner Jason Chan said when he read the resume of Chef Poli that he thought that it was a hoax, but it is not. Chef Poli has worked at Le Francais, The French Laundry and went to Madrid to work in the kitchen of La Broche without a place to live or command of the Spanish language. This is one skilled Chef and should be a candidate for the James Beard Foundation's "Rising Star Award" for Chefs 30 and under.

Our meal started with some snacks being dropped off at the table.

Herbed crackers, truffle popcorn and additive housemade potato chips

I did not know that the Chef does tasting menus, so we ordered A La Carte. I can only say this, I dined with four other people and every plate was scraped clean with every course. Not to mention, I had to have the kitchen deliver some extra vanilla foam that was part of one of my favorite dishes of the year, but more on that later.

Amuse:

Sunchoke soup with curry oil

Appetizers:

Chef Poli's spin on the tuna nicoise salad- Sashimi of Hamachi, tomato marmalade, black olive tapenade, haricot vert, quail eggs, herbs and roasted garlic dressing. Excellent!

The Butter sampler platter with 10 oysters, 4 clams, 4 snow crab claws, 4 Hawaiian Blue Prawns and Ceviche ( Rock Shrimp, Squid, Monkfish, Halibut, Scallops, Lemon, Jalapeno and Tomato

With a dizzying array of dipping sauces

Lemon Vinaigrette, Seaweed Gelee, Mignonette, Olive and Tomato Vinaigrette, Cocktail Sauce, Spicy Mayo, Sriracha, Ponzu and Horseradish

I loved the plating and all the sauces were great

Foie Gras- cipolini onions, brioche, caramel sauce, spicy black pepper reduction.

The Foie was perfectly cooked and the flavor combinations were great. I wish the piece of Foie was bigger, but I do love Foie so.....

Foam of tortilla chips and a shot of guacamole- the tortilla foam was excellent

Entrees:

Duck: confit cabbage, glazed turnips, foie gras, spicy chocolate

Notice the piece of foie, no oxidation around the edges ( dark part due to poaching the torchon). The Chefs that have spent time with Thomas Keller appreciate the refinement of triming the piece so only goodness is served.

Tenderloin and Short Rib: braised winter greens, celery root, espresso sauce

The short rib was perfectly braised and tender.

Salmon: lentil ragout, root vegetables, glazed beets, red wine sauce

I am not a big fan of cooked Salmon, but my friend declared it delicious and gave me a bite and it was.

Chicken and Lobster: sous vide chicken breast, buttered lobster, orzo, chanterelle mushrooms, creamy leeks, lobster broth

The breast was that cooked sous vide was delicious and the orzo was great.

Vanilla Foam- fresh berry salad with meyer lemon sorbet, encased in vanilla foam

Now this is one of the best dishes that I ate in 2005. As Ferran Adria says there are good foams and bad foams, this was a good one. This was light, fresh and with perfectly nuanced flavors. I have to get the recipe for the vanilla foam.

Cheese

Desserts:

Toffee Cake-walnut toffee cake with orange caramel sauce, grand marnier cream two citrus tuille and chocolate sauce

Sorbet of the Moment: mixed berries, ginger walnut crumble, palmiers

Lemon-lemon tart/ so light and good

Trio of Brulee's- Kaffit lime and lemon grass with candied lemon, chocolate and almond with roasted almonds, caramel apple with fresh apple

Green tea truffles and chocolate filled spritzer cookies

I can not wait to go back to Butter and have Chef Poli do a tasting menu for me

Good Eating,

Molto E

[ronnie_suburban]

Great report, Eliot. Thanks for taking the time to share with us. It was great meeting you and I really enjoyed our lunch.

Schwa and Butter are both on my wish list for 2006 and I hope to get to both in the very near future.

=R=

[jesteinf]

I have to say, I am not as over the moon as others on Butter. Granted, I only went once, but I just wasn't that impressed (especially given the hype). Maybe we were there on an off night, who knows? Perhaps a return trip is in order.

I will say that it looks like there were some new dishes on the menu that weren't there when I was there (the chicken and lobster, the tortilla foam), so maybe things have evolved a bit.

[yellow truffle]

Thanx for the heads-up on butter, molto e. Looks interesting and somewhat wacky. The truffle popcorn excites me. And I like the fact that they have a cheese course.

[docsconz]

Another great report, Molto. Both Butter and Schwa look like they would be right up my alley. I may have to expand my Chicago wish list a bit more.

[ulterior epicure]

molto e.

everything looks spectacular. in my last stint in chicago this summer (4 months), i don't think schwa had opened (although it was on the dining radar) and butter was too new to venture. prairie grass cafe was one of my favorites (although i had brunch only).

looking forward to visiting all!

cheers.

u.e.

[ulterior epicure]

molto e.

the schwa food presentations have an "organic" placement about them - how interesting... the sauerkraut and raisins, for instance, almost look as if they are crawing out of the plate. as does the white anchovy in one of the beginning courses. i don't say this to be disgusting, rather just an observation.

u.e.

Edited January 3, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[molto e]

molto e.

the schwa food presentations have an "organic" placement about them - how interesting...  almost look as if they are crawing out of the plate. 

←

U.E.

Interesting observation, I had not noticed that until you mentioned it. The placement of the proscuitto in the consomme course also. I have enjoyed your photo collection.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[ulterior epicure]

molto e.

the schwa food presentations have an "organic" placement about them - how interesting...   almost look as if they are crawing out of the plate.  

←

U.E.

Interesting observation, I had not noticed that until you mentioned it. The placement of the proscuitto in the consomme course also. I have enjoyed your photo collection.

Good Eating,

Molto E

←

Elliot (if i may).

I know we've had "encounters" on the France forum, and I've enjoyed your reviews and suggestions. I am "plotting" my next visit to Chicago and am considering a go at either Schwa or Butter... how would you differ the two? While I like experimental, I also like good tasting food (almost a needless comment)... and as you may have recollected from my belabouring trials in Paris, you know I have my particulars ...

Would appreciate a more in depth exposition on these two restaurants, if you please.

Ulterior Epicure.

Edited January 14, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[molto e]

U.E.,

You may use Eliot , but then I think it is time you pull off the "mask" and reveal your true identity.

But to answer your question, why does it have to be Schwa or Butter. I would not put them against each other at all. I have complete respect for what both places are doing. The Chefs come from my favorite "Chef Mentors", Chef Carlson of Schwa (Achatz, Bartolotta) and Chef Poli of Butter ( Keller, Arola). If you want to listen to a great 30 minute interview of Chef Poli go to

http://hungrymag.com/

and Mike Nagrant also wrote a very nice article in the Chicago Journal about Chef Poli so that should give you all you want to know about Butter.

Blue-collar Butter by Mike Nagrant

Schwa Website

Their website has the menu so that will give you a taste of Schwa. I would like to hit Chef's Carlson and Klingbail up for a lesson on how to make that Quail Egg Ravioli. I think that may be a spin on one of Chef Bartolotta's dishes that I loved.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[ulterior epicure]

You may use Eliot , but then I think it is time you pull off the "mask" and reveal your true identity.

Well, then I better stick with calling you molto e !

But to answer your question, why does it have to be Schwa or Butter.

Assuming this is a question, my answer is: I only have one free night to play with.

I would not put them against each other at all. I have complete respect for what both places are doing. The Chefs come from my favorite "Chef Mentors", Chef Carlson of Schwa (Achatz, Bartolotta) and Chef Poli of Butter ( Keller, Arola). If you want to listen to a great 30 minute interview of Chef Poli go to

http://hungrymag.com/

and Mike Nagrant also wrote a very nice article in the Chicago Journal about Chef Poli so that should give you all you want to know about  Butter.

Blue-collar Butter by Mike Nagrant

Schwa Website

Their website has the menu so that will give you a taste of Schwa. I would like to hit Chef's Carlson and Klingbail up for a lesson on how to make that Quail Egg Ravioli. I think that may be a spin on one of Chef Bartolotta's dishes that I loved.

I'll take a look at the interview - I've already perused the menus online.

U.E. (but I'll let you call me "Ulterior Epicure" )

Edited January 15, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[molto e]

U.E.,

You will enjoy the interview, that site plans to have one podcast interview a week and next week is Doug from Hot Doug's.

Good Eating,

Molto E