Michelin Guide Benelux 2006

[paulbrussel]

Two months earlier then usual, on 1/12/2005 the new Guide Michelin Benelux will be published.

Today, there was already the press release with the news.

Netherlands

The Netherlands has now three restaurants with three stars. After Parkheuvel (Rotterdam) in 2002, De Librije (2004) now the most innovative and young chef Sergio Herman of Oud Sluis got his third star.

No one is surprised about that.

One restaurant, also more modern, got his second star: Ron Blaauw (near Amsterdam).

There are 13 new one star restaurants, some without surprise as e.g. Seinpost in Scheveningen, De Gieser Wildeman in Noordeloos or Auguste in Maarsen.

La Rive of the luxury hotel Amstel in Amsterdam goes from two to one star, which is quite surprising (and in my view not justified).

The Netherlands ends up with three ***, six ** and 71 * restaurants.

Belgium

Belgium still has its three *** restaurants: Hof van Cleve (Kruishoutem), De Karmeliet (Brugge) and Comme chez soi (Brussels).

Hostellerie St-Nicolas in Ieper gets its scond star.

But three restaurants loose their second star: Bellefleur (Kapellen), Bijgaarden (near Brussels) and Au Gastronome (Paliseul).

The latter two I am not surprised at all.

There are 14 new one star restaurants; 15 lost their one and only star. Some new stars are evident like 't Overhamme in Aalst or Couvert Couvert in Heverlee (Leuven).

Belgium ends up with ends up with three ***, ten ** and 79 * restaurants.

(No information about Luxemburg.)

In my opinion Michelin, as the just published GaultMillau guide tends to appreciate modern and cerative restaurants more and earlier (like Oud Sluis and Ron Blaauw), and does no longer highly award the more classic restaurants, like La Rive (more modern classic, I would say) or Bijgaarden.

[ulterior epicure]

The Netherlands has now three restaurants with three stars. After Parkheuvel (Rotterdam) in 2002, De Librije (2004) now the most innovative and young chef Sergio Herman of Oud Sluis got his third star.

No one is surprised about that.

Agreed! I'm posting my review of my *stellar* experience there within a day or so on my blog... be on the look-out!!

One restaurant, also more modern, got his second star: Ron Blaauw (near Amsterdam).

Need to check that out...

The Netherlands ends up with three ***, six ** and 71 * restaurants.

I find it rather ironic that on more than one occasion, Dutch people have encouraged me to eschew the top end restaurants in the Netherlands and eat in Belgium instead... well, I've had great experiences in the Netherlands and I think the fact that they now tie Belgium in the number of 3-starred establishments supports my experiences...

But three restaurants loose their second star: Bellefleur (Kapellen), Bijgaarden (near Brussels) and Au Gastronome (Paliseul).

The latter two I am not surprised at all.

If I'm not mistaken, Au Gastronome lost both stars?? And, I concur, am not suprised if/that it did...

Edited November 27, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)

[gidon]

Does anyone have access to the complete list of changes in de Benelux? Am very curious about all the new *'s in nl...

[ulterior epicure]

gidon.

if you give me a few hours - i can transcribe the new promotions and demotions...

u.e.

UPDATE: as promised:

Belgian Promotions

Hostellerie St. Nicolas (Elverdinge) promoted from 1 to 2 stars

The rest were given their first star:

't Overhamme (Aalst)

Le Petit Zinc (Antwerpen)

Gin-Fish (Antwerpen)

Dome (Antwerpen)

Aneth (Brugge)

Sans Cravate (Brugge)

Le Pain et le Vin (Brussel)

In de Wulf (Dranouter)

Apriori (Haaltert)

Aan tafel bij Luc Bellings (Hasselt)

Couvert Couvert (Heverlee)

Helioport (Luik)

Devos (Mons)

La Frairie (Perwez)

Belgian Demotions

Down to one star:

De Bellefluer (Antwerpen)

De Bijgaarden (Brussel)

No stars:

Au Gastronome (Paliseul)

L'Ecailler du Palais Royal (Brussel)

Villa Lorraine (Brussel)

La Truffe Noire (Brussel)

Saint Guidon (Brussel)

Au V. Boitsfort (Brussel)

Les D. Maisons (Brussel)

Michel (Brussel)

Dutch Promotions

Oud Sluis (Sluis) promoted from 2 to 3 stars.

Ron Blaauw (Oudekerk) promoted from 1 to two stars.

Earning first star:

De Vrienden van Jacob (Santpoort)

Au Coin des Bons Enfants (Maastricht)

De Gieser Wildeman (Noordeloos)

Kaatje bij de Sluis (Blokzijl)

Seinpost (Scheveningen)

't Brouwerskolkje (Overveen)

Tante Koosje (Loenen)

Auguste (Maarssen)

Valuas (Venlo)

Aubergine (Tegelen)

De Treeswijkhoeve (Waalre)

't Raethuys (Wateringen)

Katseveer (Wilhelminadorp)

Unfortunately, no information on Luxembourg

Enjoy!

Edited November 27, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)

[YKL]

Could someone confirm whether Bruneau still has three stars .... or is that completely put of date?

Regards

Yin

[ulterior epicure]

I know that Bruneau lost a star this past year - I believe it is now a ONE starred restaurant. Have never been, so can't speak to the quality.

U.E.

[YKL]

thanks for the information .. and the speedy reply

Regards

[TGullet]

May I ask where would you suggest to eat if you want to try several places of several kinds in two or three days?

[ulterior epicure]

If you have a car - then I would highly suggest bumping into both Mosconi (Lux) and Oud Sluis (Ne)... and Hof van Cleve (Be) is worth a detour...

u.e.

[kkwchan]

I will be driving between Brussel and Rotterdam for few days next months. Any suggestions if I have to choose three from these five restaurants: Hof van Cleve, De Karmeliet, Comme chez soi, Parkheuvel, and Oud Sluis???

Edited July 25, 2006 by kkwchan (log)

[ulterior epicure]

I've only eaten at HvC and OS. Between the two - OS. I think it's more fun. HvC is more traditional and not as inventive... also pricier. But, OS is kinda outta the way in the middle of nowhere... HAVE FUN!!

I haven't been to the other three. I've mixed things about all of them.

u.e.

[paulbrussel]

I will be driving between Brussel and Rotterdam for few days next months.  Any suggestions if I have to choose three from these five restaurants: Hof van Cleve, De Karmeliet, Comme chez soi, Parkheuvel, and Oud Sluis???

←

Oud Sluis is definitely the best and most inventive (I was there again 10 days ago and had never eaten as good as that time).

Then there is the excellent Hof van Cleve but as UE says: it is a bit less excuting as Oud Sluis.

De Karmeliet is good as well, but more in the HvC style, and a little less good as HvC.

Comme chez soi is, in my view, not worth trying: it is extremely expensive, not very modern and not worth 3 stars.

Parkheuvel is very difficult: the chef Cees Helder who merited the 3 stars left this summer. It has been taken over by chef Erik van Loo from the Zwethheul, a two starred restaurant near Rotterdam. I must say that De Zwethheul has always been very good, but I am not sure whether you should already try Van Loo in his new place since he took over the old staff of Parkheuvel and I suppose he has to get used to his new teams.

For Brussels I also would strongly recommend Sea Grill of the SAS hotel: a very interesting, two star restaurant with a modern cooking chef Yves Mattagne.

[ulterior epicure]

Parkheuvel is very difficult: the chef Cees Helder who merited the 3 stars left this summer. It has been taken over by chef Erik van Loo from the Zwethheul, a two starred restaurant near Rotterdam. I must say that De Zwethheul has always been very good, but I am not sure whether you should already try Van Loo in his new place since he took over the old staff of Parkheuvel and I suppose he has to get used to his new teams.

Wow - I had no idea that Helder left! Where has he gone?

What ever happen to the two star chef that moved out to the coast of The Netherlands? I think he moved to a hotel restaurant near de Bokkedoorns? paulbrussel - what was his name? Have you (or anyone else) been?

u.e.

[paulbrussel]

Wow - I had no idea that Helder left!  Where has he gone? 

What ever happen to the two star chef that moved out to the coast of The Netherlands?  I think he moved to a hotel restaurant near de Bokkedoorns?  paulbrussel - what was his name?  Have you (or anyone else) been?

u.e.

←

Helder just retired.

I think you are referring to Pascal Jalhaij - he was gone from Vermeer of NH Hoteles in Amsterdam to the Palace Hotel in Noordwijk to open the restaurant Chatillon. (I went there in December 2005 and was not very much impressed and did not see any evolution since two years before.)

[ulterior epicure]

Wow - I had no idea that Helder left!  Where has he gone? 

What ever happen to the two star chef that moved out to the coast of The Netherlands?  I think he moved to a hotel restaurant near de Bokkedoorns?  paulbrussel - what was his name?  Have you (or anyone else) been?

u.e.

Helder just retired.

Oh, that's too bad - now I'm a little sad I never went to Parkheuvel.

I think you are referring to Pascal Jalhaij - he was gone from Vermeer of NH Hoteles in Amsterdam to the Palace Hotel in Noordwijk to open the restaurant Chatillon. (I went there in December 2005 and was not very much impressed and did not see any evolution since two years before.)

Yes, I remember he had an Indian (?) name. And, yes, I did mean to say Chatillon in Noordwijk (forgot)... sorry to hear he hadn't done anything noteworthy at the new location.

Oud Sluis still is the most outstanding meal I had in Benelux (and if paulbrussel says things have only gotten better, I'd take his word for it)... followed far behind by two-star Mosconi in Luxembourg (See here and here). Hof van Cleve comes in at third... De Librije was just disappointing. de Bokkedoorns was sort of boring. I left beluga rather upset and Le Bouquet Garni (Luxembourg) downright mad.

Edited July 31, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[kkwchan]

Paulbrussel, thanks for your suggestion. I will eliminate Parkheuvel. I have made a reservations for the other four restaurants. I might eliminate Comme chez soi too. I also made a lunch reservation for Sea Grill since you strongly recommended... they said they serve same dinner and lunch menu anyway. Question for you, what is interesting about Sea Grill? Any dishes that you would recommend?

Edited August 5, 2006 by kkwchan (log)

[paulbrussel]

Sea Grill offers a lunch menu (49 €) and Menu de la Mer (75 €, lunch and dinner).

For dinner there is also a more extensive menu (175 €).

Most famous dish: "Pressed Brittany Lobster Prepared at Your Table".

One of my latest meals:

Parmentier de "Bintjes", Caviar, Crème Aigrelette et Ciboulette

Thon Rouge Façon "Sushi" et Foie Gras Poêlé Laqué, Gelée de Pommes, Sésame

Homard Breton et Ris de Veau au Miel et Epices, Agrumes, Emulsion Vanille, Saffran

Saint-Pierre Poêlé, Mousseline de Pommes de Terre au Wasabi et à l'Ail Nouveau, Emulsion Citronnelle

Sole meunière, Béarnaise d'Huîtres de "Prat Ar Coum", Quelques Girolles et Tomates confites

Agneau de Sisteron, Ragoût de Fèves, Girolles et Olives, Emulsion d'Ail d'Ours

I declined the rest of the menu (desserts).

Special about this restaurant is the use of excellent products and the complicated dishes which offers nevertheless excellent harmony of tastes and textures.

The service is one of the best I know.

[kkwchan]

Paulbrussel and UE, big thanks to you two. Five nights in Belgium, we went to all three 3 Michelin Star restaurants in Belgium, a 3MStar in Netherland and a 2MStar in Belgium: Comme Chez Soi, De Karmeliet, Hof Van Cleve, detour to Netherland for Oud Sluis, and Sea Grill at last. UE, we did print out your review on HvC and OS to read before the dinner just to get an expectation of the meal. They were very useful reviews. Paulbrussel, you are right, CCSoi is the most expensive and the worst among these five restaurants.... I should have listened to you. But I did try Sea Grill's Pressed Brittany Lobster as you suggested, it is very interesting.... also very very expensive!!! (See below.)

Comme Chez Soi (3 MStar; World Ranking 49)

It is a very small restaurant. I sat closer to the person in the next table than to my fiancee. (That's why we ended up talking to the table next to us throughout the meal. The worst 3 MStar that couple has been to is ADucasse in MonteCarlo. They said it is way over priced. Any of you have been there?) Our meal at CCSoi was good, but not good enough for our expectation of a 3 MStar. It reminded us of our experience at Gordon Ramsay, nothing impressive. The service wasn't up to standard either. There were many times that our glasses were empty and dishes were placed on our table without explanation of what there were. Because the tables were put one next to another, whenever my fiancee wanted to go to the toilet, our table had to be moved either by the waiter or by ourselves, disturbing our neighbors.

De Karmeliet (3 MStar; World Ranking 47)

Brugge is a very nice old town, which is a big contrast when we entered into this 3 MStar -- modern design, which is what we like. We loved the lounge area where they served us champagne and amuse bouche. It has a view of its beautiful garden. After a taste of the amuse bouche, we knew we would enjoy the dinner much more than CCSoi. And we were right!

Menu Brugge Die Scone:

Carpaccio of tomatoes, lobster and cream of coral

Frog's Legs, crayfish and sweetbreads

Coconut and curry King Prawn, pan-sauteed foie gras

Bass, cuttlefish and basil oil

Baked Pigeon, slice of pork with spices Hot Chocolate

Dessert

Hof Van Cleve (3 MStar; World Ranking 23)

The restaurant is in the middle of nowhere... it is farmland everywhere. Good that we are able to find it without any trouble. After our wonderful experience in DK the night before, we really had a high expectation for HvC because it sounds more interesting from many reviews. And yes, Chef Goossens did deliver more than what we expected. We really did enjoy every course of our meal. A well deserved 3 MStar.

Oud Sluis (3 MStar; World Ranking 19)

We had to drive into Netherland just for this restaurant. We were late for an hour since our mapquest instruction didn't quite work for this remote area. Finally, we did arrive at this small town and drove into a crowded small town square where people don't care even if you run them over. (We weren't sure if we can drive into that road full of people until we confirmed with few locals.) The meal was interesting as it was Fat Duck style - molecular gastronomy, but I have to say Fat Duck is definitely better.

Sea Grill (2 MStar)

This is the place where we had, and probably will ever have, the most expensive lobster in our life. $22 Euro for 100g of lobster. I thought I can order 300g, but no, you have to get a whole lobster and they brought out a small live lobster which is 1.3kg!!! Since there are only 4 Lobster Press in the world, we had to try it. The lobster dish was extremely good, but I don't know if it is worth that much. Well, I guess it is for the experience in seeing how they use the press and prepare the lobster in front of you. What is more important is that we made good friend with the director. He was impressed that we had four 3 MStar in four days. So we had a long conversation about other 3MStar restaurants in Europe. He has been to all of them. We traded business card and he asked me to email him anytime if I need help in getting reservation in restaurants in Europe. He has really good connections. (Btw, he also did not recommend going to ADucasse in MonteCarlo.) Paulbrussel, thanks again for suggesting Sea Grill. For starter, we had "Lobster and Sweetbread with Honey and Spices", and "Dublin Prawn and Pan Fried Goose Liver".

Edited September 3, 2006 by kkwchan (log)

[paulbrussel]

Many thanks for this very interesting report! All nice meals (except for CCS, as expected.)

I do agree with you whether the pressed lobster is worth the money (not I think, since it is really extremely exepensive), but it is worthwhile the experience and also very good. I have only ordered it twice. I would have thought perhaps that the menu would have given a broader view on what chef Yves mattagne can offer.

[cmling]

<snipped>

I assume "$22 Euro" means € 22 and that you had to pay 13 times that for your lobster? If so: impressive indeed.

Thanks for the lovely photos!

Charley

[ulterior epicure]

kkwchan!

Wow - so glad to hear that I was able to help piece together such a fine eating itinerary!! Your photos are brilliant. I haven't read over most of you posts yet, but wanted to post immediately to say how excited I am to read them!!

Cheers.

u.e.

[kkwchan]

<snipped>

I assume "$22 Euro" means € 22 and that you had to pay 13 times that for your lobster?  If so: impressive indeed.

Thanks for the lovely photos!

Charley

←

Yap, it is €22 times 13 (plus 15% tips). That's why I really hope it is the most expensive lobster I will ever have!!! And wow, Paulbrussel had it twice... unbelievable!

Edited September 5, 2006 by kkwchan (log)

[paulbrussel]

Yap, it is €22 times 13 (plus 15% tips).

I think 15 % tips is well too much in Brussels. it is normal to give about 10 % for a modest check and a good meal, and 5 % for a big check and a (very) good meal.

[And I had it twice in 12 years, having visited Sea Grill 51 times in that period...]

Edited September 6, 2006 by paulbrussel (log)

[paulbrussel]

Just this week Pascal Jalhaij announced that he would quit the Palace Hotel in Noordwijk after about one year.

The reason he gives is that he misses his Amsterdam clientèle that he had before in the NH hotel in Amsterdam at Resaturant Vermeer.

So I suppose he will get back to the big city again, leaving the mondain coast. But there has been no announcements about his plans.

[yunnermeier]

for a treat, my boyfriend and i would like to try one of the 3 3-star michelin restaurants in the netherlands. which one would you recommend? we'd prefer de librije ,simply because it's closer to arnhem (where we live) but the website is only in dutch (the english option doesn't work) which somehow puts me off!

which one would you recommend in terms of food? because we're only 23 and 21 , we'd like to spend just 140 euro per person for the meal (either lunch or dinner). thanks!