eG Foodblog: bleudauvergne

[Chris Amirault]

Utterly fantastic.

[Lori in PA]

There's GOT to be time -- you have questions to answer...

[SuzySushi]

Dear all, I am just too pooped to put up more details than the photos this evening.  The meal, in short went flawlessly and everything tasted just right.  The only thing that went wrong was a pan of burned rolls at the beginning but better the rolls than something else!  Whew!  Here are some photos. 

I'll post the wines tomorrow AM early it there's still time

HAPPY THANKSGIVING! 

I have had a fabulous week!

Kind regards,

L

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Lucy, I am overwhelmed! What grace, what style. The photos are gorgeous. You must do a book!

(And when you recuperate from thanksgiving, further down the line, could you please, please post your recipe for the terrine?

[Abra]

Ton consomme est impeccable. And the rest of the meal looks beautiful too.

[IrishCream]

You really must post the entire Thanksgiving menu...with recipes if possible. Pretty please? Lovely meal. Lovely blog. Thank you.

[bleudauvergne]

Well, thank goodness because I wanted to express my thoughts on all of the dishes and how they worked. As for the recipes, I will put the recipes that you request in the recipe gullet after the blog.

Lori, I have not fogotten your question and I will answer it in full, because there is a bit of a story to tell.

The Aperetif:

Since we had a rather large group, we started with a simple kir royale instead of everyone giving their orders. This is creme de cassis with champagne. two of us opted for the champagne nature (cousin Matthieu and I) since a good champagne is a terrible thing to waste. The Champagne was kept cold on the window sill as soft snowflakes fell we had hot chese puffs. gougeres, my husband's specialty, he's been making them since the age of 13. We put out nuts and olives, which were passed around. We served two rounds of kirs before moving to the table.

The soup and the raviolis:

I was going to follow a recipe for the raviolis that called for lots of butter and working it with the fois gras together into a paste and then piping it into the raviolis with the aid of a pastry cone. Very fussy. However when I went to get the fois gras, I had a conversation with M. Dubernet who really knows foie gras, and we talked a bit about what it was going to do in the ravioli, and what I was shooting for. He suggested that I take the mi-cuit lobes and cut them into cubes instead of going to all of the trouble of incorporating butter, surely not necessary. His logic sounded right to me. The goal was to heat them up well enough to have a certain experience in the mouth, no need to get too fussy if I choose the foie gras which has been already cooked to a certain degree. I know that it has a tendency to melt easily and I decided to include some of that pain d'epices de miel which is a very mild pain d'epices, not agressive at all, to soak up the juice inside and give a supporting role but supporting role only. I experimented with some and was much happier with hunks of fois gras (not diced too small because the small dice was getting soft and losing its body during cooking) and then a nice pinch of the bread. Experiments with pepper gave a nice result with the mixed peppercorns, and only a half twist from the grinder was required to take it where it needed to be.

A consomme is really easy to do and as long as you have your stock done in advance, you can let it do its thing without any special attention once you have incorporated the egg whites and chicken breasts. I did not use the regular blender, making use of the immersion blender and incorporating the whites and chicken breast as I would a sauce, taking some liquid and pureeing it all together in a smaller recipient (the cup that came with the immersion blender) and then incporporating that into the soup, giving it a good mix in the pot as well with the blender. I brought that up to a simmer and kept it there. It worked well. After straining through a screen strainer, I ran it through a clean linen napkin in the chinois which I had thoroughly rinsed several times to remove any traces of laundering product. This produced a perfectly clear soup. I seasoned it just before serving, and added a spoon full of armagnac to the pot just before serving.

Minced chevril, parsley, chives, thyme and sage (very easy on the aromatics) were placed in each warmed bowl lined along the buffet outside the kitchen. I then poached the ravioli in two batches, the larger ones first, and set them carefully and quickly with chopsticks into the bowls, then swiftly moving in with the ladle and pot of soup to get them out hot. Extra hands would have been helpful, but not necessary, I was very bossy to Loic, saying "go go go!" as he moved the bowls out two by two and got everything to the table nice and hot.

I most always think of something I am not happy with when serving my own dishes. This time I was very satisfied. As for the wine - a 2003 Gewurztraminer that Loic chose was a touch that just pushed this course to special holiday meal level. The wine was a perfect choice.

The Terrine: I took the time to slice it carefully during the early afternoon, just to avoid any suprises, and I was glad I did that because this is not something you want to do when you are in a hurry. I was happy with the result and was especially happy with the dried mirabelles that I was worried about, which really added a wonderful flavor, with the wild rabbit. I will post the recipe for the terrine in the recipe gullet, but for anyone who wants to get to terrine making immediately, my base recipe was inspired by Richard Olney's recipe for rabbit terrine in his Simple French Food. My final recipe adds duxelles to the forcemeat, and then the roll in the center with has mustard carrots and parsley.

The Turkey and side dishes: This year's turkey was a smaller one, about 10 pounds. Two things pleased me with this size bird. 1) There was room in the oven an extra rack which gave me a lot more flexibility in being able to get hot rolls out during earlier courses. I simply forgot about the first batch - involved with the guests, but I will be more careful next year. 2) The bird was small enough that I could handle it without help in the kitchen as I transferred it to another platter and got the gravy going. The quality of this bird, was I think the best I've had so far in France. It was plenty meaty despite the long body, much more flavorful than the ones we've had in the past, and most of all tender and juicy, and we still have plenty left for turkey pot pies.

I forgot to put the corn in the Succotash but I was the only person who noticed. Noted for next year - don't forget the corn. The creamed chestnuts and bacon, bean bundles, two kinds of stuffing and gravy were all like they should be, although next year instead of beurre echire in the stuffing I will use a a beurre cru d'Insigny which I can get by weight at the fromagerie. Next year I will find cranberries and make some cranberry sauce too.

The wines these are the wines we drank with each course starting with Aperetif and ending with dessert.

They are back, they are hungry for lunch. Time to get the soup on.

[Swisskaese]

If Loic is willing, I would love to have the recipe for the cheese puffs. My Mom makes them, but his look better. Shhhhh! Don't tell her I said that.....

I wish I could find the cheese with rosemary. It looks delicous. What is the name of that cheese?

[BarbaraY]

A beautiful table and lovely food. Congratulations!

next year instead of beurre echire in the stuffing I will use a a beurre cru d'Insigny which I can get by weight at the fromagerie.

I would like to know what the difference is.

[ninetofive]

I don't think I've ever seen a consomme that clear. Lovely!

[bleudauvergne]

Ok here is the menu, IrishCream.

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Kir Royale, Gougères, nuts and olives.

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Raviolis de Foie Gras, Consommé de Poularde.

Gewurztraminer, Jean Huttard Reserve 2003

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Terrine des Deux Lapins

St. Verran, Domaine des Crais 2002

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Dinde Fermier, Corn Bread Sausage Stuffing, Oyster Dressing, Gravy, Autumn Succotash, Creamed Chestnuts with Smoked Bacon, Green Beans wrapped in Poitrine demi-sel, White Aparagus with Sheeps Tomme Bechamel.

Chablis Premier Cru, Cote de Lechet, Sylvain Mosnier, 2003

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Cheeses: Rove de Garrigue, Thym Tamar, Galette des Sempliers, Cathare, Banon Fermier, Tomme de Savoie, Salers, Brie de Meaux, Abondance.

Samuer Champigny, Daheuiller, 2003

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Dessert: Pumpkin Cheese Pie, Sam's Derby Style Bourbon Tarte (which was just amazing please make this pie)

Champagne, Chassenay d'Arce Cuvée Selection

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[Jason Perlow]

Lucy, you looking to get your Project Manager certification or something? I think we could use someone like you in the IT consulting field...

[bleudauvergne]

Today some of the gang came back for more after hitting the St. Antoine Market.

The meal was a much less formal affair.

Thanksgiving Soup which consisted of the turkey wings, both stuffings, scrapings from the bottom of the turkey platter, leftover succotash, a bouquet garni, the carcass from the Poulet de Bresse en Vessie, sauteed onion and rutabaga, simmered for an hour, bones and bouquets removed, and pureed. Seasoned with creole spice mix maison, salt, and the addition of corn cut from the cob.

Bacon Garlic Croutons were passed around the table.

A cleansing salad

The cheese plate features the addition of a St. Marcellin and a Pouligny St. Pierre.

We enjoyed both pies, of which the pecan pie was devoured in its entirety, and then a sampling of my first vin maison, the Vin de Noix which I made with other eGulleters this summer. The taste has really rounded and filled out to make it really super, not too sweet, just a perfect way to end Sunday lunch on a cold snowy November day.

This was followed by coffee for the amateurs.

~~

[tejon]

Lucy, you looking to get your Project Manager certification or something? I think we could use someone like you in the IT consulting field...

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You don't plan out larger meals this way, Jason? I make up a similar chart for any meal involving more than a few dishes, complete with time line and notes. There's usually a chart for prep as well (X dish needs marinating on Tuesday, rolls must be finished the night before, etc.). Much easier to have it all planned out in advance and simply follow the time line as cooking gets hectic.

[Jason Perlow]

No, I'm afraid we are not quite that organized...

[Gifted Gourmet]

Lucy, everything you do is done with panache and an eye toward perfection! I have enjoyed each and every moment of this blog .. you serve as a true role model for many of us .. I often find myself asking "How does Lucy do it?" when I make a large, more complicated meal .. beautiful, comme d'habitude! et merci!

[Abra]

Gorgeous, Lucy! And thanks so much for the thoughtful explanation of the dishes after the fact. It's so nice to peek into the mind of the cook, as well as seeing the beauty of the food itself.

[bleudauvergne]

Lucy, you looking to get your Project Manager certification or something? I think we could use someone like you in the IT consulting field...

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You don't plan out larger meals this way, Jason? I make up a similar chart for any meal involving more than a few dishes, complete with time line and notes. There's usually a chart for prep as well (X dish needs marinating on Tuesday, rolls must be finished the night before, etc.). Much easier to have it all planned out in advance and simply follow the time line as cooking gets hectic.

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No, I'm afraid we are not quite that organized...

It's nice to be able to say - "what time is it?" and to take a quick look at the chart to make sure that everything that's supposed to be done is done. You don't want to sink effort into an event and then realize that such and such can't be served because it's too late to heat it up in time or the people won't have fresh hot rolls with their cheese. That happened a few years ago to me, I'd been drinking wine and didn't much care and everyone still loved the meal but the day after I was disappointed. You know? I don't fret if something goes wrong, but I certainly make sure I know how the thing's going to roll out and keep in mind that if I do keep on the right track and quietly concentrate on the details, the meal will continue to unfold full style on through to the last course, And not start out with a bang and pitter off into chaos.

The first thing we do is calculate how long the bird's going to take to cook. From the time we'd like to serve it, we count back and then add the hour to have the oysters shucked. Loic's errands are written out and I set my goals rather largely, also basing them on when I'll have time alone. My thoughts on the time a task will take in the planning are based on what time I should finish it. I had lots of time in between to bathe, talk to Bonnie, take breaks, get lost in unpredicted details etc. Things generally rolled out on time, and during the meal all went very smoothly.

Guests being good conversationalists help ease the way from course to course, as does Loic keeping everyone's wine glasses monitored. If things fall behind I have a cushion that keeps me from feeling pushed. Being in a hurry is one of the last things a person wants to do in the kitchen. There's a big difference between working swiftly and being in a hurry.

[tejon]

As usual, very well said. There is something comforting about having a plan and not having to think about details as you are immersed in cooking a meal that is more complex.

[Rebecca263]

Thank you very much for sharing your week with us. I will add my voice to the group and ask you to please consider a book. I've adored every moment of reading your 'blog'.

[johnnyd]

and then add the hour to have the oysters shucked

Lucy, I would happily take on this chore next year so that you can use the extra fifty five minutes in creative bliss, and Loic can monitor our wine glasses uninterrupted.

... if I start swimming now, I'll no doubt make it to Lyon in time.

[Priscilla]

Lucy, entirely heavenly. The body of the consomme and its golden color -- just mouthwatering. Not to slight the garni!

How unusual (or not!) is it to serve fresh-from-the-oven bread with the cheese?

Your special-occasion china is lovely. What maker/pattern?

And, in your proprietary Creole spice mix, about those dried shallots. I assume I could use the dried shallots from the spice section of Middle Eastern markets.... (Is this the only application garlic powder finds in your kitchen? I have 1 single garlic powder secret.)

Merci Madame!

[Susan in FL]

*cue commercial music*

Tomorrow (not today  ) is the last day of Lucy's Foodblog installment.  This thread will be open through Monday afternoon, until 12 noon EST.

Some previews of upcoming Foodblogs in December:

In mid-December:

A week of culinary rapelling, including the review of a Vancouver restaurant in real time (including a drill down on the methodology), to a trip to British Columbia's wine country in the beautiful Okanagan Valley.  Batten down your hatches and lock up your daughters! 

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It looks like the one coming in mid-December might get the award for the most cleavage in an eG Foodblog.

[bergerka]

Lucy, this is the first chance I've had to relax all weekend, pretty much - I'm so glad I chose to spend it catching up on your blog. How beautiful. Thank you.

K

[chardgirl]

Add me to the (lurking) Bleudauvergne Fan Club. The photos and the writing together... When is the cookbook coming out??

My son is a new (10 year old) fan of Cheese Plates, now he's ready to depart for France. Thanks for the inspiration in making our own cheese courses here near our home, across the world from your gorgeous plates.

cg

[Eden]

It's nice to be able to say - "what time is it?" and to take a quick look at the chart to make sure that everything that's supposed to be done is done.

...[many thoughtful details snipped]...

If things fall behind I have a cushion that keeps me from feeling pushed.

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That is an excellent explantion of the hows & whys of a kitchen schedule Lucy.

When I do larger projects I always make one. (and I always try to leave breaks in it where I can either relax, or catch up if something has gotten off course.)

Being a geek girl with terrible handwriting, mine are done in Excel, and on bigger projects they are color coded for stove, oven and even food processor use so I can see if there will be a bottle-neck in my equipment usage that could cause a problem.

I also like to add a line at the bottom listing which serving dish will be used for each recipe.

All of this also makes it much easier to let other people help you in the kitchen impropmtu. If someone walks in at 4pm with willing hands, you glance at the chart to see what needs doing that's not too specialized, and then ask them to prepare the beans for steaming while you focus on the raviolis