Gilt

[Bux]

I have mixed feelings about the web site. Much of what I have to say about restaurant web sites I've said in threads devoted to the subject. I want information and I want to get to what I want to see as directly as possible. I'm not much of a fan of flash driven sites that exploit the technology to the point where communication suffers. Liebrandt, however, doesn't have a restaurant up and running at the moment. Thus perhaps he can be excused for having more noise than signal on the site. Still, I spent too much time wondering where to click next. That the photographs are excellent and well worth seeing, doesn't change things for me, but they were the best part of the site and quite rewarding. What I didn't like was the page with the moving targets. Sorry, it I'm to click or read, I shouldn't have to chase text or images.

[docsconz]

A description of the decor and work arrangements from today's NY Times

Adam Tihany's vibrant, dazzlingly colorful décor has been removed from the rooms, which are in the landmark Villard Mansion, part of the hotel. Instead, the original woodwork and plaster work and the other late-19th-century decorations in the rooms are now the most prominent decorative elements in both Gilt and the Madison Room.

Patrick Jouin, who designed Gilt, spent $4.5 million adding modern, somewhat modular caramel leather seats with white fiberglass backing, a little suggestive of the seating he created for the ill-fated Mix in New York. The floor is caramel rubber with a slightly canted fiberglass entryway.

The most striking touch is a soaring faceted podlike structure that embraces part of the bar area and changes color. The bar is a free-standing oval of white Corian, surrounded by chairs in chocolate leather and silver leather at low tables.

[Sneakeater]

Note that that article was written by reporter Florence Fabricant, NOT by principal reviewer Frank Bruni.

[Sneakeater]

At least she didn't refer to the chef solely as "Paul".

Edited December 14, 2005 by Sneakeater (log)

[Megan Blocker]

Gilt had a mention in the New York Magazine food section this week as well...looks like there will be a variety of prix fixe menus, going up to $110 for dinner and $60 for lunch.

[TarteTatin]

New York Times, today, Wednesday, full page ad.

(Wonder what that costs?)

[greensNbeans]

At least she didn't refer to the chef solely as "Paul".

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what was that suppost to mean?

[Vadouvan]

I dined at both Atlas and Papillon and I cant wait to try Gilt.

I have a reservation for saturday evening.

I shall certainly report back with excruciating detail, the room may be too fancy for cameras.

From What I have heard, the previous Gagnaire reference by AKWA is the skinny.

[tan319]

At least she didn't refer to the chef solely as "Paul".

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and????

[tb86]

is guilt open to the public saturday ? i thought freinds and family was on friday night?

[Vadouvan]

GILT is open to the public as of tonight, we got a saturday reservation because we left a voicemail 6 weeks ago and a lady with a strangely fake but interesting accent called us back to confirm.

I think it was really nice of the restaurant to follow up and actually call.

My praise was however eroded by the fact that they have the most ridiculous reservation policy.

BASICALLY *YOU* (the diner) have to call the restaurant 2 days before your reservation to confirm it otherwise they wont guarantee you a seat. Maybe its just me but that's bizarre.

Ducasse, Per Se,JG,Daniel all call you to confirm.

We shall see how long that flies or if NYers put up with it.

[tb86]

oh come on dont be scared, use a cell phone camera i have a few friends working there i'm interested in what there up to

[Megan Blocker]

BASICALLY  *YOU* (the diner) have to call the restaurant 2 days before your reservation to confirm it otherwise they wont guarantee you a seat. Maybe its just me but that's bizarre.

Ducasse, Per Se,JG,Daniel all call you to confirm.

We shall see how long that flies or if NYers put up with it.

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Seriously? That just seems like bad service.

"Please call and confirm that you'll be dropping several hundred dollars here in two days' time."

LAME.

Can't wait to hear a full report!

BTW, tb86, I keep wanting to type "Guilt" as well - !

[philadining]

Yeah, come on Vadouvan, you can be discreet with that Coolpix!

And I think that any of us who go there should call to reconfirm our reservations every couple of hours for a few days, they might get the message!

[Vadouvan]

Hey philadining....any tips on non flash digital photography ?

Can we ADOBE enhance the pix ??

You are the E gullet god of all things photograhic.......

In GILT's defense, NYers are GLUTTONS for abuse...if you open a 6 seat restaurant that requires you to pay up front if you show up or not, I bet it would be booked solid.

[rich]

Not only is Paul opening Gilt tonight, but Bob is opening Innocence next Thursday.

[Vadouvan]

Bob ???

Who is zeees ?

[philadining]

Hey philadining....any tips on non flash digital photography ?

Can we ADOBE enhance the pix ??

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This is getting a little off topic for here, but for the sake of encouraging you to take pictures of Gilt, the short version is yes, the "levels" controls in Photoshop can work wonders. The other trick is to prop your elbows on something and use the shutter delay timer, so your shutter finger doesn't shake the camera.... Give it a try, we want to see what the Gilt food looks like!!

[Megan Blocker]

I may try and grab a drink at the bar one night...it's about a block from my office, so worth a peek...camera phones akimbo!

[akwa]

Hey philadining....any tips on non flash digital photography ?

Can we ADOBE enhance the pix ??

You are the E gullet god of all things photograhic.......

In GILT's defense, NYers are GLUTTONS for abuse...if you open a 6 seat restaurant that requires you to pay up front if you show up or not, I bet it would be booked solid.

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pretty funny you should say that

i found a perfect spot on division for a 10 seat prepay only single table resto this fall

only problem, investor not thrilled that the project faced a project

[Pan]

I think it's fine to expect a confirmation a day in advance, but two days in advance is too long. A lot of things can happen in the interim. I think it's very pretentious of them to start out with such a policy, when they just opened. Maybe Per Se or Alain Ducasse could get away with it, but a just-opened restaurant?

P.S. If you want tips on photography and Photoshop, have a look through threads in the Technical Support forum. Thanks.

[Megan Blocker]

I think it's fine to expect a confirmation a day in advance, but two days in advance is too long. A lot of things can happen in the interim. I think it's very pretentious of them to start out with such a policy, when they just opened. Maybe Per Se or Alain Ducasse could get away with it, but a just-opened restaurant?

P.S. If you want tips on photography and Photoshop, have a look through threads in the Technical Support forum. Thanks.

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To me, it's not the confirmation two days in advance that's annoying, though I can see Michael's point on this one - it's that they expect the customer to initiate the call!

Edited December 16, 2005 by Megan Blocker (log)

[R Washburn]

That is a big step up from "Le Cirque's" policy of not honoring your reservation, until all the regulars who walk-in are seated.

I have had more than one restaurant request a confirmation. but they always ended up calling me as well. I doubt they will give away your reservation without calling you.

[Bux]

That is a big step up from "Le Cirque's" policy of not honoring your reservation, until all the regulars who walk-in are seated.

I have had more than one restaurant request a confirmation. but they always ended up calling me as well.  I doubt they will give away your reservation without calling you.

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I was going to say that it seems to me that a few years back it was common for restaurants to ask you to reconfirm the day before your reservation. Invariably, they all seem to have learned that too many diners forget and the better restaurants now make it a habit of calling the diner a day or two before.

[Vadouvan]

2am wide awake after a day of culinary debauchery in Manhattan that started with some fantastic scrambled eggs and Binjte potatoes from Union square greenmarket, sweetbreads at Casa Mono, plate of Jamon and Pane con tomato at Bar Jamon, arguably manhattans best properly made espresso at St Ambroeus on Madison and 77th followed by a short walk down to 50 Madison's new "million dollar baby"...GILT.

Service was supercourteous and professional. Well choreographed movements in the dining room, expedient,efficient. The purple DNA sculpture on the website which I viewed with some trepidation actually was much more elegant in the way it wrapped around the bar. Great juxtaposition of modern and classic. On to the food.

First of all, NO PICTURES. Flash photography would be far too obnoxious in the dining room and I personally think there are intellectual property issues with pictures in high end restaurants with cookbook potential without expressed permission of the chef so use your imagination. If that doesnt work, RUN, dont walk to Gilt as the food was spectacular.

Of the conservative high end Manhattan jewels (Per Se, Jean Georges, Daniel, ADNY Essex), this was a creatively superior meal with the same level or better of technical execution.

The classic pairings that you find in these restaurants while delicious have become passe (no pun intended). Paul Liebrandt take a less traditional approach with some startling flavor deliveries.

Canapes:

BUTTER NUT SQUASH TUILE RIBBONS

TAMARIND MARSHMALLOWS

KATAIFFI WITH YUZU AND CORIANDER

OLIVE OIL FINANCIER, SPICY YOGHURT.

Talk about off to a great start, if this was a musical performance, it would be the Tannhauser Overture. the psuedo savoury finacier was brilliant with a sprinkle of togarashi, the Kataiffi exploded with the taste of what I believe was coriander, the flavor changed in my mouth 3 times in about 6 seconds.

Tamarind marshmallows added a piquant note to perfectly textured candy.

Amuse Bouches

SMOKED EEL/MELON SOUS VIDE WITH SHERRY

HAZELNUT CLOUD, MOUSSE OF FOIE GRAS

CAULIFLOWER SORBET/ORANGE TUILE

GLAZED DUCK/AVOCADO/OLIVE OIL

All perfect, Cauliflower sorbetto rocked !

Bread and Butter:

housemade, an absolutely fabulous Brioche, serrano ham bread and potato bread.

2 butters, one french, one Devon.

Butter was good but we noticed 2 bottles on Manni olive oil, which I have been hunting like the CIA is looking for bin laden.....so we promptly had them whisked over.

Some damn good Olive oil.

Tasting menu is $92, 3 courses plus a few supplements for pricier dishes.

We ordered 3 ....3 course menus and told chef to arrange them however he pleases.

1st courses

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BALLOTINE OF FOIE GRAS,QUINCE CREAM,GELEE OF COTEAUX DU LAYON

Coteaux De Layon is one of my favourite non sauternes dessert wines behind Loupiac and Jurancon, gelee was perfect texture, and interesting garnish of a tulie that tasted like nori was present in it, great tableside service,

KAMPACHI/RHUBARB SALAD COOKED WITH MUSCAT GRAPES/HIMALAYAN SALT.

Great addition of piquillo puree, olive oil sorbet and toasted almonds.

More manni olive oil......manni more manni more.....!

"FLAVORS OF WINTER"

PEEKY TOE CRAB, SEA HERB GLASS

FINANCIER OF ARUGULA AND STILTON

SEA URCHIN NATURALE

ROASTED BABY ABALONE, NANTUCKET SCALLOPS, OXTAIL GELEE

SWEETBREADS TAMARILLO.

Basically, 5 more amusey type dishes together. Arugula financier was the shizzy.....awesome.

Uni was garnished with caviar and some foam

All great.

2nd Courses

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FOUR STORY FARMS MILK FED POULARDE, WINTER PETITS FARCIS, FOIE GRAS JUS.

That was some good chicken, we both agreed the tastiest thing we ate all night was the little stuffed cabbage roll of confit meat. Great presentation, very Gagnaire/Bras -esque..........or maybe just very Leibrandt.

OCEAN TROUT, SLOWLY COOKED WITH CLEMENTINE AND SUNCHOKES

Served with escargots.

Perfect sous vide cookery, presentation was very Tetsuya-esque.

CANNON OF LAMB,ROASTED WITH FRESH PINE, HEDGEHOG MUSHROOMS, PINE NUT CUTTLEFISH ROYALE.

Presented tableside and then whisked back to the O-R for some quick surgery.

Comes back beautifully presented. The pairing of cuttlefish and lamb was starting to push it but I ate both seperately and they were tasty. I think if you dont process the intellectual thought of the reasoning behind the combo too long and you just eat it while its warm, it was good.

Hell..... if New yorkers are running downtown to eat fried cubes of mayo with a little tongue, they should be cool with some squid with Lamb.

REST OF MENU WE DID NOT HAVE: (but looks goooooooood)

MILLBROK VENISON

RED CABBAGE MARMALADE,SWEET/SOUR BABY CARROTS/ARGAN OIL.

DRY AGED BLACK ANGUS RIBEYE (POUR DEUX)

WATERCRESS - LEMON BALM PUREE,SMOKED POTATO FONDANT

MAINE ROASTED LOBSTER

CAULIFLOWER CREME,CAPER RELISH,TOASTED BLACK CURRANT OIL

DOVER SOLE

COMTE CRUST,MELEE OF BABY LEEKS AND SMOKED HADDOCK

TARRAGON MUSTARD SABAYON.

DESSERT : We pretty much had them all, good solid creations but doesnt quite match the ambition of the kitchen/savoury food. I think they went deliberately more conservative with desserts. my thoughts......if you are gonna cross the alps with Hannibal in the winter, just go all the way, skip the chocolate stuff, i know the kitchen is capable of some spectacular stuff since the dinner menu has some interesting dessert - ish garniture.

I cant wait for some.....

Cauliflower Sorbetto, Nori tuile from the foie gras dish, green tea gastrique and crystallized shiso leaf. .

The dessert amuse was SPECTACULAR.

BLOOD ORANGE CONSOMME AND SORBET WITH LAVENDER HONEY TUILE.

So there you have it.

This seems an overly enthusiastic review but the food was good, the room was beautiful and the whole experience reminded me why I wanted to cook really good food in the first place. My first cookbook ever was WHITE HEAT, Marco Pierre White, there was Marco, thin, scraggly, long hair rock star looks, great quotes and just kicking it out. The villain you want to hate, but he cooked some goood food.

OTHER TIDBITS:

Rather than just saving money at IKEA or Crate and Barrel..

Serious investment in Bernadaud, FABULOUS Ercuis flatware and some rubenesque wineglasses of undetermined origin.

Definitely my best high end meal in Manhattan period.

Going back in less than 2 weeks.