One Month in London!

[stellabella]

I will be spending the entire month of July in London.  I have spent lots of time in London already, so am not a novice by any means.  All my time is free and I especially like to wander in neighborhoods and browse markets.  I will be staying in a flat with a basically-equipped kitchen, so I can do some simple cooking.  My current goals:

1] to find good salt beef a la the advice of Tony Finch and others.  

2] to eat at one of the good Italian restaurants recommended on an earlier post

3] to shop and eat and eat and shop at the Borough market & Neal's Yard Dairy as often as possible

4] to drink many hundreds of pints at the Wenlock and the Clerkenwell Arms and any other fabulous pubs I discover

My husband teaches and we have a set per diem for food and ale.  In the past we have tended to fritter away our pounds on small mediocre meals on the fly.  We have eaten many meals at popular cheap spots like Wagamamas, a place which quickly gets old.

This summer I would like to venture out.  Reading the UK board has filled my head with food many ideas , but in truth my time is somewhat limited, my resources rather limited.  I'd like at least one truly extraordinary meal, true British food, if possible, and cost is no object.  Recommendations?

Lots of good Indian to be had--I would like to find a good Indian market--a place selling items besides foods-- textiles, for example.

Good neighborhoods for wandering around and noshing?  I am comfortable on the tube and very adventurous--I will go just about anywhere the tube takes me.  Last time over I walked around Shepherd's Bush market.  It seemed to me like an area that demanded more attention.  Not sure.

Any advice would be truly appreciated.

PS  I am being forced [trust me, I kicked and screamed], as faculty spouse, to attend a performance of the Lion King.  Tell me the truth--am I going to die to death of incredulity?  Many thanks.

[Winot]

Stella,

As far as Italian restaurants are concerned, I heartily recommend Sardo in the Fitzrovia area (45 Grafton Way, 020 7387 2521).  As the name suggests, it specialises in Sardinian food.  It's also fairly good value.

I'm sure the board will have a whole host of good advice for you on the other topics.

Have fun.

W.

[Miss J]

An excellent source for Indian food, textiles, music and anything else that grabs your fancy is Southall in South West London. It's not the easiest place to get to (take tube to Paddington, then train to Southall rail station), but it's worth the trip if you're looking for the real deal.

For more info:

Southall pics at southall.co.uk

I usually snack when I'm out there, but I understand there's some good restaurants as well - Brilliant usually gets good reviews.

Miss J

[macrosan]

Hi Stella

How exciting !

First of all, I was also forced to see the Lion King in the company of my granddaughter and others. I was totally captivated  

Now to the main business. Anyone who wants to eat well at low cost should get right out of central London. The good restaurants are certainly few, but they are there -- you just need to know where to find them.

I can point you to some places in Croydon and Bromley (the south-east fringes of Greater London) and Kingston and Wimbledon (south-west) and I'm sure others here know places to the north of the river. You can find first-class food (albeit generally without Michelin stars) at half the price of equivalent places in central London.

I'll compile a list of the places I know, and messenger the details to you. If you prefer, send me an email address and I'll send you a Word document.

[tony h]

Where to start?

Food - you've seen the board but if you want "british" then St Johns is possibly as good an approximation as any. Also - its not too expensive. Others, like Simon, may know of more appropriate places.  

Eric Chavot is possibly out cooking Ramsay just now - so head to the Captial (just around the corner from Harrods).  Its expensive - but they do an excellent affordable lunch menu.

For atmosphere - Moro is very good.  Food is variable but again not too expensive.

Not about food.

Virtually all of the Museum are now free & there are some excellent shows on just now (Mastisse/Picasso at Tata Modern; Lucian Freud at Tate Britain).

British Galleries at the V&A are quite wonderful as is the BM's great court.

[Andy Lynes]

I'd like at least one truly extraordinary meal, true British food, if possible, and cost is no object.

I could be wrong, but looking for true British food may be your greatest challenge in July. Am I correct in thinking that what you want is something that you can only get in the UK, not simply the best French, Italian or whatever that we have at the moment which may well end up being a very similar experience to the equivilent in New York, Paris or any other major city in the world?

Some may point you towards St John, and although good, there is a strong French Bistro influence on the menu, and the room is very casual. So whats left after that? Rules, Simpsons in the Strand, The Savoy etc etc. Well, I've never eaten in these places, but although they may offer something more traditionaly British, I just don't know if they could be termed extraordinary.

There are lots of great restaurants in London and around the country, but there are very few "British" ones. Probably the most singular and individual chef at work at the moment is Shaun Hill at The Merchant House in Ludlow 2-3 hours outside London. You certainly wouldn't see any of the current London (or Bray) trends appearing on his menus, but again Shauns food reflects French Italian and Indian influences so exactly how British that makes it is hard to say.

[Wilfrid]

If you want a traditional British meal and cost is really no object, consider Wilton's on Jermyn Street.  It is old-fashioned, stuffy, formal (jackets and ties), but the menu is something which would have been recognizable to an Edwardian gentleman, and the dishes are prepared with fine ingredients and absolute correctness.  Excellent game in the winter, but in July the emphasis will be very much on fish.

Which prompts another thought: if you would like a menu of British seafood dishes, executed extremely well, but with some modern touches, I strongly recommend J Sheekey, just off the Charing Cross road.  Book well in advance, because it attracts celebrities and those who like to spot them, but the food is first rate.

[stellabella]

wonderful recommendations

thank you, thank you

Miss J--sounds like exactly what I am looking for--even if I have to walk, I've got my A-Z and I can find it.

I have had several meals at Rules--I think Rules is great but I also understand that it is a tourist haven--the last time I dined there the South Carolinians across the aisle, upon arrival of their Yorkshire pudding,  squealed, AWMIGAWD--and thrusting a camera at us--KINYEWTAKEAPICTURE?  I will look into the places listed and if I make it to a couple I'll report back.

by the way, my neighborhood is the border between bloomsbury and islington [i'm pretty sure that's accurate--our flat is right across from the cental PO].  any recommendations for good grocers, besides the safeway, within trotting distance, would be appreciated.

thanks for the museum tips, too.  british tate and V&A are my favs.  in truth, i just love everything about london, love it, love it.  so looking forward to my trip.

thanks again.

[bushey]

One of the best small museums I've ever visited is within walking distance of where you'll be staying -- Sir John Soane's Museum. It's housed in what was his home and is literally chock-a-block with interesting pieces. Walking through the museum is a little bit like following Alice through the rabbit hole. And the docents, in their green smocks, can show you all sorts of wonders.

         Soane's Museum

Another wonderful museum is the Courtauld Gallery in the Somerset House. It has a great collection of Impressionist art and the building itself is quite lovely. The courtyard area near the gallery has an outdoor fountain sculpture and it would be  a nice place for a picnic lunch if you don't mind the absence of a lawn.

Courtauld Gallery

[Tonyfinch]

Stella,for your British meal you might try City Rhodes or Rhodes in the Square.The food is not "traditional" British in the Rules sense,more a sort of Modern British with French touches. It's unclear how much Gary Rhodes actually cooks as both restaurants have their own "Head Chef". But they are both comfortable,classy places with lovely food.

Another option might be the Butler's Wharf Chop House in Shad Thames overlooking the river and Tower Bridge.Some might revile it because it is a Conran joint but I've had a couple of fine traditional British meals in the main restaurant and the setting is lovely.

I think the general consensus on the salt beef thread was that the best in Central London is to be found at the deli at Selfridges.

[Tonyfinch]

I forgot to add re Andy's reccs,I've not eaten at the Savoy Grill or the Dorchester Grill (although I suspect they're heavily patronised by American tourists)but I have eaten at Simpson's in the Strand. Avoid at all costs at dinner but the Ten Deadly Sins at breakfast is something all good trenchermen (trencherpersons PC?) should try at least once in their lives. Don't plan too active a morning afterwards though,and don't plan to eat for the rest of the day.

[Wilfrid]

I was in the Savoy Grill last week - not my idea and I wasn't paying.  Forget about it.  If you want to check out the Savoy, have a cocktail in the American Bar.

[stellabella]

Simpson's in the Strand Ten Deadly Sins at breakfast is something all good trenchermen (trencherpersons PC?) should try at least once in their lives. Don't plan too active a morning afterwards though,and don't plan to eat for the rest of the day.

ten deadly sins is at simpson's?  this is the name of a morning meal or brunch?  just to clarify, because it sounds like a meal that needs to be in my belly.

13 more days...

[Tonyfinch]

It's "the works" for breakfast English style,although come to think of it it's probably no more filling than one of those..er...hearty....American breakfasts.

[Miss J]

Stellabella, a few more points on "ethnic London." Since the city is getting so outrageously expensive, a lot of key areas are away from the centre (like Southall). Even traditional areas like Brick Lane and Chinatown are under threat. When I was last in Chinatown, I noticed that a shiny new Bar Room Bar (anonymous middle market bar chain) had suddenly appeared in Gerrard Street right smack in the middle of all the trad restaurants & food shops. Very worrying. Brick Lane is transforming in a slightly more interesting way in that it's getting an influx of hip young designers and artists, but the quality of its restaurants has slipped badly. That said, there's a few places you can head out to for food, cheap-ish authentic restaurants, textiles and general vibe.

Hackney in East London had become a mini Vietnamese haven when I last checked around 6 months ago. There's a good restaurant out there (some say the best Vietnamese in London) called Green Papaya on Mare Street. There's also a number of decent food shops with a strong Vietnamese bent. Just don't go after dark - the area is gentrifying, but it can still be rough.

Arabic London is found along Edgeware Road between Marble Arch and Paddington. In high summer the sun loungers in Hyde park are often occupied by groups of fully veiled, wealthy Saudi women on holiday. You can get food, kitchenware, and hookas if you're so inclined. If Lebanese food isn't your thing, you can go a bit further up Edgeware Road (passing under the Westway flyover) and try eating at Kandoo, a rather nice Persian budget eatery. It's really, really hard to spend more than £20 on two people there, and they have their own "kandoo" (clay oven) at the front of the restaurant so you can watch your nan be made right in front of you.

While you're up there you can also try out Mandalay, which I believe may be London's only Burmese restaurant. It's run by two brothers who are so incredibly nice you get the impression that they'd give you their food for free if they could. As it is, they charge very little anyway so it's worth trying if you're not familiar with the cuisine.

If you head WAY out into suburbia (right at Edgware Station at the end of the Northern Line), you can find a huge shopping complex called Oriental City. It's angled at Chinese and Japanese ex-pats and offers food, clothes, kitchenware, books and a food court.

Of course, if you haven't been to Brixton Market on Electric Avenue, it's the best place for Afro-Caribbean groceries, music, fashion and atmosphere. It's also good for a quick blast of Eddie Grant nostalgia - everyone I've taken there has spotted the street sign and squealed with recognition.  

Obviously that doesn't cover everything, but it's all I've actually been to during the last six months.

And finally...another good budget eatery is the little French bistro that Wilfrid discovered on Berwick Street. Nothing fancy, but the food is well cooked and served with scads of charm. A good affordable find in Soho. There's been a lot written on it elsewhere on the UK board.

Miss J

[Tonyfinch]

If you head WAY out into suburbia (right at Edgware Station at the end of the Northern Line), you can find a huge shopping complex called Oriental City.

Well,if you're going to venture as far as Edgware then you must visit the B&K salt beef bar which does the best salt beef in the whole of London. Also thick slices of hot tongue.

[Miss J]

Oh, and for things close to where you are...you're not saying that you're staying in Kings Cross, are you? Eeek. I really hope you're closer to the Bloomsbury OR Islington side...right on the border can be a bit rough.

For groceries, you're a bit stuck in that area I'm afraid unless you head up to the big Sainsburys at Angel (which is a trek). You'd almost be better off ordering from them online and getting the goods delivered.

For nearby "value eats" (and this may be out of date, as it's been over 5 years since I lived in the area):

North Sea Fish Restaurant - rare decent fish & chips in London.

Malabar Junction - South Indian food, which I think is pretty good. Simon may have something to say about that, though.

Miss J

[Miss J]

Well,if you're going to venture as far as Edgware then you must visit the B&K salt beef bar which does the best salt beef in the whole of London. Also thick slices of hot tongue.

Is that in Edgware? I may stop off there when I'm next up (which may be a while - I get nervous as soon as I step out of the North Circular).

I'm a Selfridges salt beef girl, myself.  

Miss J

[Kikujiro]

Re. Indian food, can I make another plug for Kastoori in Tooting? They serve strictly vegetarian, E African/Gujarati food, very affordably in rather dull surroundings. The cooking itself is tremendously accomplished, through, and interesting to boot (chilli banana curry, which you should order if it's on the rotating list of specials, springs to mind). Its reputation does seem to be spreading (they have a review from some NY-based magazine on the wall comparing them favourably to Zaika) so you may need to book. Have the dahi puri.

188 Upper Tooting Road, 020 8767 7027.

Oh, and The Lion King has many more pleasures to offer than you might expect.

[Wilfrid]

It's "the works" for breakfast English style,although come to think of it it's probably no more filling than one of those..er...hearty....American breakfasts.

I hope it still includes the pig snout!

[mogsob]

Where to begin?

1. The Lion King is better than you think, but not as good as the opening sequence leads you to believe.

2. Roussillon in Pimlico is wonderful and a fraction of the cost of restaurants of like quality (one Michelin star).  They have a website.

3.  Hunan is a must (thank you Simon!).  As is Royal China (love the aromatic duck).

4.  I have not been around that much, but Zaika Bazaar has incredible Indian food at a very reasonable price.

5.  For traditional English fare (in no particular order): (1) The Guinea for steak and kidney pie, (2) Wilton's for dover sole, (3) Fortnum & Mason for tea, (4) Boisdale for haggis (ok, not really English but really good), and (5) Sweetings for lunch.  St. John's is excellent and very British, but in a very modern way I think (but I'm just a dumb Yank, so what do I know?).

Hope this helps!!

[circeplum]

amen to all the recommendations.  but - while not the hautest of haute - maggie jones in kensington church st is really good fun for unreconstructed british food (game; jugged hare with sauce made with its own blood, etc); dusty, eccentric atmos; and the campest waiters in town.

[Wilfrid]

Oh yes, Boisdale.  Often overlooked.  A Scottish restaurant, no less, but with excellent produce from around the British Isles, fairly priced wine, and very friendly.  I actually chose it as the restaurant for my farewell meal when I left the UK, so that's a recommendation.

[Jaymes]

Steak & Kidney Pie at Harrod's?  (Don't forget the camera.)  

Okay, so I enjoyed it.  What of it?  So kill me.  Knock me upside the head.  Gobsmack me.  Gag me with a banger.  I admit it.  I'm a tourist.  In fact, it's my very favorite thing in all this world to be.  I just wish I could afford to be a tourist more often.  Always being a "local," in my colorful native dress (my current financial circumstance), is highly overrated.

[bushey]

 Hunan is a must (thank you Simon!).  

The crispy green beans, or green bean "chips",  are phenomenal. Bet you can't eat just one order.