Lola & Lolita (Cleveland) Reviews & Discussion

[rockandroller]

I just had the heritage pork a couple of weeks ago during a business dinner (I got to pick the location, yay) and it was absolutely amazing. Crispy on the outside due to the marinating in duck fat, which sounded sort of unappetizing but was so tasty I could chew my arm off just thinking about it again. This was also my first "main dish" visit and while I couldn't resist the spanakopita small plate, I was glad I saved room and went with this entree. I don't know how long this will be on the menu but it was absolutely magnificent.

[Palladion]

I dined in a party of three this evening at Lolita. We arrived quite early, just after 6:00. I think I saw two other parties in the restaurant at the time.

All three of us are fairly light diners, so we decided to split all of our food, to allow us to sample more of the fare. We ordered three small plates, a soup, the big board, and a single pasta entree. As I expected, the server was surprised that was all we were ordering.

Inexplicably, all of our food was brought to our table at the same time. We were served the big board first, as as we were still working on our first few liersurely bites, we were served the soup, the small plates, and the pasta in quick succession. This made everyone feel rushed and somewhat overwhelmed by the food, and I almost asked the server what the problem was. With all of the large dishes the restaurant uses, along with the long boards used for serving the big board and the small plates, it almost didn't fit on the table at the same time. The restaurant was almost empty, so it obviously wasn't a need to turn the table quickly.

The last time I had eaten at Lolita, my companion and I had ordered in the same way, and our food had come out in the normal progression, one item at a time, allowing us to easily pace ourselves. This had been on a busy Friday evening, yet today, on a very slow Wednesday, we were hit with all of the food at once. We felt somewhat pressured to rush through the soup and pasta before they cooled off.

The next time I eat there, I am going to be sure to specify how I want the food served.

From the small plates: The omo is no longer on the menu. We tried the sausage with yogurt, which was very satisfying - the tart yogurt helps cut through the grease from the sausage. The spinach pie was so-so - I thought the filling was somewhat bland. We also had the crispy pork with beets and honey, which was very good, though I still miss the crunchy beets from the beet salad that was served when the eGullet group dined there last summer.

The soup, which one of my companions was dead set on ordering, was a cream soup with potato and wild mushrooms. It was actually quite good, very earthy, particularly from the mushrooms.

The big board this time included a date and apple paste along with the mustardo and the truffle honey. The big board was again a hit, and I thought the herimeri was incredible. I wish they'd given us more.

The pasta that we had was a linguini with clams. Again, the choice of one of my companions - I had been pushing for the heritage pork. The pasta was good, though not as standout as the thicker pasta I had eaten there before.

For dessert, we split three small plates. The crispy lemon meringue was refreshing, delicious, and light, though I wish more was included - it was basically a small meringue cookie topped with a tiny dolop of lemon stuff (I don't know the technical pastry term). The rice pudding coroquets were very nice, though my companions didn't like their somewhat savory nature. Finally, we had the Turkish coffee semifreddo, which was a warm sweet layer on top of a bitter ice cream layer. The sweet part was too sweet and too thick - the first person to try it didn't get to the ice cream layer and ended up eating a spoonful of super-sweet goo.

Before ordering, we asked about that Turkish coffee semifreddo, and the server described it as being similar to a creme brulee with coffee flavors. I have no idea why it was described as such...

It was largely a successful meal, with the exception of receiving all of the food at once. I was almost annoyed to the point of sending the small plates back and asking them to be made up again when we were ready for them. Two of the small plates sat on the table for at least half an hour before we got to them. In the end, I decided not to make a scene, but, again, I'm going to be sure to specify how I prefer the food be served the next time I am there.

-------

Alex Parker

[edsel]

At long last, the new Lola is opening. They're doing the "soft opening" this week and taking reservations for evenings starting on Sept. 25. In a few weeks Lola will also be open for lunch/brunch.

Here's a blurb from the Plain Dealer:

A year late, Lola Bistro arrives

This is the most anticipated restaurant opening here since the original Classics opened in the old Omni International Hotel nearly 20 years ago. But don't count on walking up and grabbing a table for four. Friday is reservations only, and there are no more available. It wouldn't be a bad idea to call now if you want to get in soon.

edit to add link

Edited September 19, 2006 by edsel (log)

[torakris]

At long last, the new Lola is opening. They're doing the "soft opening" this week and taking reservations for evenings starting on Sept. 25. In a few weeks Lola will also be open for lunch/brunch.

Here's a blurb from the Plain Dealer:

A year late, Lola Bistro arrives

This is the most anticipated restaurant opening here since the original Classics opened in the old Omni International Hotel nearly 20 years ago. But don't count on walking up and grabbing a table for four. Friday is reservations only, and there are no more available. It wouldn't be a bad idea to call now if you want to get in soon.

edit to add link

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So when are you going?

Please give a full report!!

[Michael Ruhlman]

As most know, Michael's become a good friend so what the comments I have are biased. Donna and I ate at a friends and family service Wednesday, warm up for the kitchen and front of the house. It's a _beautiful_ restaurant, sophisticated urban with Liz's funky details. It's a larger, more polished version of lola, with a big open kitchen, including a chefs table (like bar seating, but it will be a prix fixe tasting menu I believe). Food will be as lola's was, perhaps slightly more refined, or maybe it just felt that way. we ate bacon and eggs, lobster corn dog, steak with blue cheese hollandaise, and walleye with spaetzle. All of it perfectly done. (the sous chef garrett, comes from tribute outside detroit. Frank Rogers is chef de cuisine.) dessert: lemon meringue, I believe, napolean with intense berries and french toast with—bless egulleter pastry chef cory barrett—bacon ice cream! john long said tonights is the most anticipated opening in 20 years. i don't think anybody will be disappointed. raises the bar for cleveland dining.

[rockandroller]

Thanks for the update and info, Michael. I've heard so many rumors swirling about when they are opening, it's hard to believe it's finally going to happen. This is going to be great for downtown and for Cleveland's dining scene. Bacon ice cream? Hmmm. Intriguing.

[ronnie_suburban]

dessert: lemon meringue, I believe, napolean with intense berries and french toast with—bless egulleter pastry chef cory barrett—bacon ice cream!

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. . . and all was right with the world

=R=

[Michael Ruhlman]

correction: the sous chef is derek clayton.

bacon update: a whole slab of heritage belly that has been braised is served with wilted greens and poached egg, excellent. ice cream by cory is simply a maple base with bacon folded in. he tried incorporating bacon fat but the current method gives the best balance of savory-sweet.

also: contrary to the blurb in the PD, walk-ins are possible tonight, but it all depends on how smoothly the night's going and there may be reservations available.

[edsel]

The Plain Dealer blurb I quoted the other day made it sound like getting reservations was going to be really tough. I kind of assumed that myself, but fortunately didn't talk myself out of even trying to get in.

I was able to get reservations for Wednesday evening, and some friends are going on Saturday. As word gets out that Lola has opened I'm sure that they'll go through a burst of heavy bookings. Especially after the PD does a full review, which John Long implied is coming soon. In the mean time, give 'em a call, and don't be discouraged by a busy signal. This ain't el bulli or The French Laundry.

edit to fix broken italics

Edited September 26, 2006 by edsel (log)

[cbarre02]

please give a ring.

[NancyH]

bacon update: a whole slab of heritage belly that has been braised is served with wilted greens and poached egg, excellent. 

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Does anyone know if this is the same dish Michael served at the Slow Food Terra Madre benefit last spring at Carrie Cerino's?

[Michael Ruhlman]

bacon update: a whole slab of heritage belly that has been braised is served with wilted greens and poached egg, excellent. 

←

Does anyone know if this is the same dish Michael served at the Slow Food Terra Madre benefit last spring at Carrie Cerino's?

←

probably is. the guy has no imagination.

[edsel]

A group of us went to Lola last night. Our reservations were for 8:00 but we went a bit early to have drinks at the bar.

The initial impression walking into the restaurant is a definite "Wow!" - They've done a marvelous job of fitting a modern, elegant design into the shell of an early-20th-century building. The new Lola is much more spacious than the old space in Tremont (now occupied by Lolita). High coffered ceilings, dark richly-textured walls, a large bar with an alabaster stone surface lit from below and an impressive glass-encased wine collection above and behind the bar.

The dining areas are split onto multiple levels. We sat at an oval table with a nice view of the open kitchen. Seating was a curved banquette on one side and comfortable chairs on the other.

We started out with an amuse: salmon parfait with horseradish crème fraîche served in a shot glass. That was followed by appetizers:

Smoked Walleye Croquettes with corn chowder and ramps

Beef Cheek Pierogi with wild mushrooms and horseradish crème fraîche

Foie Gras Sausage with cheddar & beer soup shooter, brioche, and pickled shallot

Heirloom Tomato Salad with feta and kalamatas

Arugula Salad with dried cherries, walnuts, and goat cheese

Our waiter was kind enough to supply us with extra bread plates so we could pass samples of our food around the table.

(more to follow)

Edit to correct descriptions and add blurry pictures

Edited September 29, 2006 by edsel (log)

[edsel]

The main course:

Grouper with corn, chilies, citrus, and crab

Smoked Berkshire Pork Chop with chilies, cheesy polenta, and BBQ onions

(No picture - the fries looked cool in their paper-lined metal container.)

Beef Rib Eye with Lola Fries

Veal 3 Sweetbreads, Tongue & cheek with mushroom broth (two of us had

this)

I sampled everything but the Rib Eye (which looked marvelous). Everything was perfectly cooked and very flavorful. The veal dish in particular was incredibly rich (I couldn't quite finish mine). The tongue provided a nice contrast to the buttery sweetbreads and the falling-apart tender cheek.

The wine was a Franciscan Magnificat from Napa. It's a nicely balanced "meritage" style red that held up well with the robust food flavors. No wimpy wines for us!

Save room for dessert!

Edited September 29, 2006 by edsel (log)

[edsel]

Last but not least, Dessert!

Pastry chef Cory Barrett has his own kitchen separate from the open kitchen on the main floor. He's clearly been having fun coming up with playful desserts in sync with the Lola "vibe".

Before our dessert order arrived we got a special treat:

Banana Pana Cotta and Blueberry Sorbet

Since this was off-the-menu, I may get the description wrong. I think there was a burnt butter / hazelnut nougat (or something like that) beneath the sorbet, and I think the herb sprig on top was lemon verbena. Whatever the components, this was delicious.

From the dessert menu we had:

Lemon Meringue Lemon curd between layers of crisp meringue, with fresh berries and Sangria sauce

Piña Colada Coupe Coconut panna cotta, vanilla-rum Pineapple, Malibu granitée

(Wish I had a picture of this - it's served in a curvy heavy glass "sculpture". It really does taste like Piña Colada!)

"6 a.m. Special" . French toast, maple-bacon Ice cream, caramelized apple

Had to try this one! The bacon is salty and crunchy - quite a novelty in a dessert. Very cool.

"Dark Day in Cleveland" . Chocolate cake, blackberries, Blackout Stout ice cream, Malted anglaise

This one was too dark to photograph. Everyone raved about the chocolate cake. It's absolutely intense.

One last little touch: Our checks were accompanied by a little pegboard festooned with "Lola-pops". Dark chocolate, some sort of nuts (sheesh, my mind is going!), and crunchy sea salt.

Edited September 29, 2006 by edsel (log)

[tammylc]

Thanks for the report, Edsel. Everything looks great. I can't wait until the 2007 Heartland Gathering in Cleveland, so I'll have an excuse to come eat at Lola!

[torakris]

Edsel,

Thank you for the report complete with the pictures!

I am already looking forward to next summer.

[NancyH]

Sorry this took so long, but I have four photos from our Lola dinner with Edsel et al.:

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11598832...3689_790144.jpg

This was the Beef Cheek Pierogi with wild mushrooms, horseradish, and

crème fraiche. I ordered it even though I can't deal with mushrooms (much to my husband's delight, because he gets to eat them) - it was supurb!

[NancyH]

Oops - here's the photo from the previous post (I'll get the hang of this sooner or later!)

Next is a shot of hubby Bob's Arugula Salad with dried cherries, walnuts, and

goat cheese - yum!

[NancyH]

Another shot of Cory's special dessert - Banana Panacotta with Berry Sorbet:

And finally, the Piña Colada Coupe Coconut panna cotta, vanilla-rum Pineapple, Malibu granitée served in the coolest hunk of glass:

What a wonderful evening!

[edsel]

Four of us dined at the Chef's Table at lola last night. The CT is a raised stone counter adjacent to the open kitchen.

View from the CT

My entree being plated

The table is lit from below

We had the lobster, hanger steak, pork and lamb shanks. I though everything was delicious, but especially liked the lamb.

A new dessert

Another new dessert

I can't recall exactly what was in these desserts. The first was a tuille filled was a banana mousse and accompanied by a fruit compote (?). The second was a pumpkin pana cotta with cream. We also had the "dark day in Cleveland" chocolate cake with stout ice cream.

Lola Pops

Love the crunchy salt with caramel.

EDIT: I still don't have the dessert descriptions right.

Edited November 13, 2006 by edsel (log)

[NancyH]

Wow, Edsel - that was fast! I have a few more photos from last night - what an awesome meal! And we'll have to do it again, since two of our party got sick and couldn't make it (Cory - Shannon made it to Wooster and had to turn back because she was sooo sick). We were so hungry when the appetizers came that forgot to photograph - but the new Beet Salad is a winner and the Beef Cheek Pierogies just keep getting better and better.

My husband Bob had the Braised Berkshire Pork.

I had the Hanger Steak and Frites

Another EGulleteer had the marvelous Lamb Edsel mentioned - a huge serving of perfectly prepared meat

Edsel already posted photos of the Banana Panna Cotta and Fruit Crepe and the Dark Night in Cleveland - here is one of the Pumpkin dessert, which was plate licking good:

And - lest anyone doubt the quality of the kitchen and staff behind Michael & Liz - they were not in the house last night, but if you weren't sitting in the kitchen, you wouldn't know it - everything from food to service was executed perfectly.

[rockandroller]

Sounds awesome! Great pix!!!

[BethG]

Wow Nancy & Edsel,

Those pictures are great! Everything looks soooo good! Thanks for sharing them.

I can't wait to try Lola again - especially the pumpkin dessert!

~Beth

[edsel]

There was a special tasting dinner upstairs at Lolita last night. The dinner was a joint project of a cleveland.com food-and-wine forum and the Northern Ohio Slow Food Convivium.

Lolita chef Matt Harlan designed the menu around local foods, with Ohio honey a featured ingredient in several dishes.

We started off the evening with some of Michael Symon's wonderful house-cured salumi accompanied by a lovely Alsation Cremant (sparkling wine) from Chateau d'Orschwihr. Lucy Wellhausen of Ohio Honey gave a brief talk about beekeeping and honey production. Then on to the main event:

The menu

First course

Slow Roasted Beet Salad, Crispy Pork, Mint, Vinegar

Chateau d'Orschwihr Riesling Bollenberg, Alsace '05

This is a great combination of flavors and textures. The pork belly was meltingly tender, but with a nice crunch. The flavor and aroma of the beets was concentrated by the slow roasting.

Second course

Honey Glazed Scallops, Braised Leeks, Celery, Citrus

The scallop was perfectly cooked - just done on the inside, but with a beautiful crusty surface. The braised vegetables and citrus gave this a nice balance.

Third course

Rabbit Ravioli, Sage, Olives, Brown Butter

Chateau de Thulon Beaujolais Villages, Burgundy '05

The rabbit meat was slow-braised in a subtly sweet sauce. Sage and brown butter is a classic sauce for ravioli, but the sliced green and black olives added an extra dimension.

Fourth course

Roasted Pork Loin, Apples, Celery Root, Mache

This is heritage pork from Curly Tail Farms. Unlike factory pork, this is moist and very tasty!

Fifth course

Ohio Honeycomb, Tallegio Cheese, Toasted Pine Nuts

Chateau d'Orschwihr Riesling Vendage Tardive, Alsace '89

Sorry for the dim picture - maybe NancyH has a better one. Pine nuts go so well with honey. The honeycomb is a bit chewy (yes, you eat the whole thing). Kind of a novel experience. I liked it.

Sixth course

A Honey of a Dessert

Honey Braised Butternut Squash, Goat Cheese Cream, Pecan Cake

Another dim picture. Nancy, help me out!

This dessert is by Cory Barrett - he's the pastry chef for both Lolita and the new Lola. The goat cheese cream was actually a frozen parfait (?). The squash is an unusual component for a dessert. I like having sweet and not-so-sweet elements in the same dish. The pecan cake was sort of hard/crisp like biscotti. Again, another surprise.

The upstairs dining room is designed for private functions, but it's also a teaching kitchen. There are video cameras aimed down at the cutting boards and flat-top, so we could see the food being prepared and plated. Chef Matt and company did a sensational job last night.