Elbulli questions - not about the food!

[natureboy]

Hi there folks,

This is my first step into the world of egullet so let me start by saying hello to everyone.

I won't bore you all with a brief bio but as I'm posting on this site, you could well guess that I have a similar interest to most of you.

I've been googling my fingers to the bone (a habit more than a hobby!) to find out as much about elbulli as possible before my fiancee and i get there in late august. There are some great posts, reviews and even photos on this site but alas, I have many further questions that require your advice, opinion or knowledge.

We fly into Girona lunchtime Friday and depart Monday afternoon so three nights in total, Saturday being dinner at Elbulli. Flights are booked but not acommodation. I was thinking about staying in Girona on Friday night, and possibly having dinner at El Celler de can Roca or perhaps, at Can Fabes.

Questions!!

1. Would it be too late to get a reservation at Can Roca or Can Fabes if we booked this week?

2. Do either or both of them have an a la carte menu as well as the degustation/tasting menus? I don't want to spoil the Elbulli experience by having 30 courses the night before!

3. I understand that Can Roca is in Girona, but Can Fabes is further out..? If so, how far out is it? Best method of transport..?

4. If we can manage a meal at one of these places on the Friday night, where is a good place to stay?

5. We would then go to Rosas on Saturday morning so what would be the best way from Girona to Rosas and can you recommend a place to stay for 2 nights?

6. What is the best way of getting from our Rosas acommodation to elbulli and back? Perhaps after the 26 odd courses we could just roll back down..?

Apologies for the barrage of questions but its our first trip to the area.

Hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction,

Kind regards,

Simon

[Bux]

The only way to be sure if you can get a reservation would be to call or send e-mail to either or both of the restaurants, but I believe Can Roca is closed for the first two weeks in July. Thus you may be lucky enough to reach them if you call right way. E-mail may be riskier. To the best of my knowledge, they both offer a la carte menus and various set menus. I know Can Roca offers more than one set menu as we ate there last month.

Can Roca is a short taxi ride from the center of Girona. Can Fabes is in Sant Celoni and closer to Barcelona than to Girona. I suspect it may on be the rail line from Girona to Barcelona. In any event, Girona is about equidistant from Sant Celoni and Roses. Without getting into which is the better restaurant, I can't see leaving Girona to eat anywhere else without dining in Can Roca.

We stayed in the Hotel Ciutat de Girona, in Girona and were pleased with our accommodations. Free wi-fi in the rooms as well. I've had lunch in Can Fabes, making the commute from Barcelona. I wouldn't want to have to do that after dinner. Can Fabes has rooms and there is a less luxurious hotel in town.

Last minute rooms in Roses may not be easy to come by. This is a beach resort town. August is high season for Roses. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that many places are already booked up. Cala Montjoi and elBulli are best reached by car or taxi from Roses. It's something like seven kilometers and I wouldn't want to walk that at night as the winding road is unlit.

I don't really know how to get from Girona to Roses by public transportation, but I know others have done that. Search and you may find that information already posted in the forum.

[Saborosa]

The Sarfa bus company runs a bus between Girona and Roses:

www.sarfa.com. The web site has info in English. Go to Services/Interurban for times.

I echo Bux's warning about booking accommodation for August - do it NOW!

If you do want to stagger home after your meal you could try the campsite in Cala Montjoi! I think they have chalets. It may seem a little odd after a three-star meal but it means a short journey home and more money to spend on the food and wine!

CAMPING & BUNGALOWS CIUTAT DE VACANCES CALA MONTJOI - ROSES (GIRONA)

+34 972256212

http://www.campingsonline.com/calamontjoi/?asolink=on

http://www.montjoi.com

[Silly Disciple]

I've stayed a few time in Roses at hotel la cala. its a one star, so don't expect great things, but its clean, very cheap (20/30 euros low season for a double if i remember correctly), and best of all it stands almost above SnackMar/Las Golondrinas, and is right accross from Rafa's.

Hotel La Cala 972-256171

C.Sant Sebastia (can't find the number... Rafa's is 56 so this should be in the odd 50's).

SD

edited to add full address:

Sant Sebastià, 61 - Roses - 17480

Tel: +34-972256171 - Fax: +34-972256171

Edited June 30, 2005 by Silly Disciple (log)

[natureboy]

Thanks for all your help. I now have acommodation booked in Rosas and as you said, its busy! I have not yet booked acommodation for the Fri night in Girona but that shouldn't be quite so urgent as it's not on the coast. I'm going to wait and see if I get an email response from El Celler de Can Roca whilst they are on holidays. Our trip is still 7 weeks away, so I may have to wait til they return from holidays before trying to make a booking, and hope to be ok.

Thanks, too, for the Girona-Rosas train info.

Best Regards,

Simon

[Saborosa]

Thanks, too, for the Girona-Rosas train info.

Best Regards,

Simon

←

Just a quick note to avoid confusion - there is no train service to Roses, the company mentioned above is a bus service. You could take the train from Girona to Figueres, which is nearer to Roses, and then take a bus from Figueres to Roses. It just depends whether you want to change or not.

Or perhaps I have created confusion

[natureboy]

Thanks, too, for the Girona-Rosas train info.

Best Regards,

Simon

←

Just a quick note to avoid confusion - there is no train service to Roses, the company mentioned above is a bus service. You could take the train from Girona to Figueres, which is nearer to Roses, and then take a bus from Figueres to Roses. It just depends whether you want to change or not.

Or perhaps I have created confusion

←

I meant to say 'bus', just force of habit saying 'train'. You haven't created confusion and thanks again for your help.

[molto e]

I was wondering what my options are for getting from Barcelona to Roses and back? I have been fortunate enough to get a reservation to El Bulli and I am not familiar with the area.

Thank You,

Molto E

[nimzo]

Train to Figueres and then taxi to Roses, easy but the taxi will cost you about 45 euros.

[Silly Disciple]

Or rent a car in Barcelona, it's a nice drive to Roses.

The main issue you have is the "coming back" part. Are you planning on staying in Roses or other nearby places?

Remember you will be done with dinner around 1am, having eaten 25 or so dishes and presumably having consumed a good bit of alcohol as well.

There is no public transportation that late, so your options are driving back to Barcelona (about 150km), staying in the area (the safest choice) or taking a taxi back (don't know the price, but I would assume 200 EUR or more, if 45 gets you to Figueres).

SD

[molto e]

Or rent a car in Barcelona, it's a nice drive to Roses.

The main issue you have is the "coming back" part. Are you planning on staying in Roses or other nearby places?

Remember you will be done with dinner around 1am, having eaten 25 or so dishes and presumably having consumed a good bit of alcohol as well.

There is no public transportation that late, so your options are driving back to Barcelona (about 150km), staying in the area (the safest choice) or taking a taxi back (don't know the price, but I would assume 200 EUR or more, if 45 gets you to Figueres).

SD

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How are the roads up to Roses? I saw Gordon Ramsey show where he went to El Bulli and the roads looked very tight?

[pedro]

The roads to Roses are fine, highway for the most part of the trip. The only kind of bad part is going from Roses to Cala Montjoi.

Personally, I drive better on the return trip back to Roses. The night hides the ravine.

[molto e]

The roads to Roses are fine, highway for the most part of the trip. The only kind of bad part is going from Roses to Cala Montjoi.

Personally, I drive better on the return trip back to Roses. The night hides the ravine.

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Thank you Pedro, I will not look down. I am going to stay the night in Roses, though not sure where yet.

[Bux]

I toured in Spain by car in the mid sixties. Roads were primitive. Well before we entered the 21st century, Spain had some of the best roads in Europe. From Barcelona just about as far as Figueras, the road is all superhighway, but it's fine all the way to Roses as well. The seven kilometers from Roses to Cala Monjoi is no longer what I'd consider bad. In very recent years it's been paved and widened a bit, or so it seems. So what you've seen was probably just that last seven kilometers to elBulli, which is not in Roses proper, and what you saw was probably not in as good shape as it is now, but yes, that last seven kilometers is narrow. As I recall however, it's wide enough for two cars at all points. Still, many people who drive to Roses, prefer to take a taxi back and forth from Roses. As the drop off into the sea is on your left as you return to Roses after dinner, it's not as bad as it could be. I don't recall any markings, such as white lines at the shoulders or the middle though.

[Chef Metcalf]

We arrived in Roses two days ago and had no problem finding accomodation.

La Terreza is an excellent hotel and just a short walk to get to town. (144.00 E per night for a two night stay or cheaper if you stay three or seven)

We drove along the road to El Bulli today and I would suggest you try and get a reservation at the hotel that is very close by on the beach next to El Bulli.

It´s a road that you don´t want to drive in the dark let alone after 32 courses and wine.

Sorry, can´t remember the name of the town or the hotel but Bux or someone should be able to help you out.

We put our name on a waiting list, but as of yet have heard nothing (no surprise there)so we are off to La Llar tonight.

All the meals we have ordered in Roses have been wonderful.

The seafood is very fresh and expertly prepared.

We had dinner last night at L´Estrop on the boardwalk and it was excellent, and a steal for the price we paid.

Have fun and we envy your reservation for El Bulli!

PS Con Roca is closed the first two weeks of July, but the other one, Con Fab(?)sp is open I believe.

Edited July 11, 2005 by Chef Metcalf (log)

[molto e]

The roads to Roses are fine, highway for the most part of the trip. The only kind of bad part is going from Roses to Cala Montjoi.

Personally, I drive better on the return trip back to Roses. The night hides the ravine.

←

Thank you Pedro, I will not look down. I am going to stay the night in Roses, though not sure where yet.

←

Thank Bux, we are going to rent a car in Barcelona. We are thinking about eating at Cinq sentits, Alkimia, Abac, Hisop or Can Majo while we are in Barcelona-do you have a preference

[docsconz]

The roads to Roses are fine, highway for the most part of the trip. The only kind of bad part is going from Roses to Cala Montjoi.

Personally, I drive better on the return trip back to Roses. The night hides the ravine.

←

Thank you Pedro, I will not look down. I am going to stay the night in Roses, though not sure where yet.

←

Thank Bux, we are going to rent a car in Barcelona. We are thinking about eating at Cinq sentits, Alkimia, Abac, Hisop or Can Majo while we are in Barcelona-do you have a preference

←

Even though this is addressed to Bux, the beauty (or horror) of this site is that I can throw my $.02 in I haven't been to Hisop or Can Majo, though I am sure they are superb. Abac and Alkimia are both excellent. One thing that Cinc Sentits has that they don't is the eGullet connection with that intangible extra it provides. Jordi and his family are extremely gracious and accomodating. Unfortunately for me, the evening I was there I was already stuffed and therefore unable to enjoy it as much as I should have. If you can go to more than one by all means do so. I would rate Abac slightly ahead of Alkimia.

[Bux]

Thank Bux, we are going to rent a car in Barcelona.  We are thinking about eating at Cinq sentits, Alkimia, Abac, Hisop or Can Majo while we are in Barcelona-do you have a preference

←

I'd probably make a reservation at Alkimia or Hisop because I haven't been there. On the other hand, that I haven't eaten in those places yet may be an indication that they're not as high on my list. I suppose the question is do I have a preference between those places I know. My most facetious answer would be for me, or for you? At least I don't have to choose for Doc, he's made his own choice. The truth is that they're three different kinds of places with different appeal.

Can Majo is right across the street from the beach and a lovely place for a most informal meal. If I recall correctly, it specializes in simple seafood dishes and Catalan rice dishes. The view of the beach make it a pleasant lunch spot, assuming you get a table outside. When reserving, it's essential to make sure you've reserved an outdor table.

Cinc Sentits and Abac have much in common although I think it's fair to say that Abac is more the accomplished and more formal of the two. I also found it a bit stiffer. I wholeheartedly agree with Doc about the intangibles. Possibly because I've been communicating with Jordi for the past year beginning before he opened the restaurant it was the more enjoyable meal. Credit must also go to Amelia, Jordi's sister not just for the gracious hospitality, but for her wine list and for the pairings of wine and food. It's a new restaurant and not yet in any guidebooks. Can Majo provides a simple seafood meal that's not to be scoffed at. Cinc Sentits and Abac offer more sophisticated cooking. I'll through yet another restaurant in the mix because I haven't been there in a long time and think it's due to serve me another meal. That's Ca L'Isidre which offers sort of up to date versions of traditional and classic Catalan cooking in a simple bistro setting. Maybe it's due for me simply because on our last trip, we focused on very modern cusine in Barcelona.

[Silly Disciple]

I haven't been to Abac, so leaving that one aside I would strongly recommend both Hisop and Cinc Sentits over Alkimia.

I'm not a big fan of Can Majo, both since I didn't find the food great when I ate there, and because a friend of mine used to work in their kitchen and I've heard some horror stories. Then again, at the time I didn't know their specialty is arroces caldosos (more "soupy" rices rather than the "drier" paella). If seafood is what you're looking for, there are I think other options available.

I recently ate at Colibri, which I think we have overlooked a bit as it can be put in the same group, and it's definitely worth visiting.

SD

Edited July 12, 2005 by Silly Disciple (log)

[Culinista]

Not that I recommend this as a practical thing, but a couple of weeks ago we rented a boat and navigated from our hotel dock in Roses to El Bulli. It took just slightly longer than driving, but it was a fun way to arrive!

I love the drive along the ravine and rather miss the days when it was an even narrower dirt road with painted grafitti saying "El Bulli ---->"

Camping on the beach afterwards would be the last word in romantic, methinks. We were there the night of San Juan, and there were fireworks at midnight, just as we were making our way through 3 kinds of coffee--regular, upside down, and sideways. I noticed that Mrs. Vmilor showed up for dinner with wet hair, and I suspect her of going for a pre-dinner swim.

[Chef Metcalf]

As I recall however, it's wide enough for two cars at all points.

←

Cars yes, buses no.

But there shoudn't be any out at that time of night.

Some of the hairpins just barley fit two cars as someone is always driving over the line into your lane.

I'm not sure if you are there yet or not but I will be posting a review of the eight course tasting menu that we had at La Llar, later on this week.

It was definitely worth the visit.

Have a nice trip.

cm

[pim]

I'd probably make a reservation at Alkimia or Hisop because I haven't been there. On the other hand, that I haven't eaten in those places yet may be an indication that they're not as high on my list.

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You certainly should give Alkimia a try next time you are in that area, Bux. Alkimia was quite lovely.

On the subject of getting to elBulli, I recommend taking a cab from your hotel in Roses, the ravines are far too scary for me even before all that drinking at dinner!

[Silly Disciple]

You certainly should give Alkimia a try next time you are in that area, Bux.  Alkimia was quite lovely.

Pim, would you mind elaborating a bit more on your experience at Alkimia? I think I posted about it elsewhere in the forum, but we went there with a bunch of people from the cooking school and found it unanimously dissapointing in its food, the service and the overall quality/price ratio.

SD

[Louisa Chu]

If you're primarily going to El Bulli as a diner, I suggest taking the bus from Barcelona to Roses and then catching a taxi up to the restaurant. Be forewarned that the cab fare is a rip-off - they charge about 20-25 euros each way. But otherwise Roses is so small that you really don't need - or want - a car. I stayed at the "camping" - the Cala Montjoi "City of Vacations" when I started my stage there last season. They said that I was the first stagiaire to be able to walk the beach home at the end of the night. But I'd bet big money that they're already booked for summer high-season - it's the kind of place that four generations of family gather every year.

As for the drive down the road at night? You do not want to be on that road when the stagiaires are unleashed for the night. It is a hair-raising, heart-in-your-throat, white-knuckle race to last call in Roses.

[Bux]

. . . . I stayed at the "camping" - the Cala Montjoi "City of Vacations" when I started my stage there last season. They said that I was the first stagiaire to be able to walk the beach home at the end of the night. . . .

As for the drive down the road at night? You do not want to be on that road when the stagiaires are unleashed for the night. It is a hair-raising, heart-in-your-throat, white-knuckle race to last call in Roses.

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I assume you moved into town when you found out where the party was.

I've always found Taxis in Spain to be pretty inexpensive. Although we've not taken a taxi to elBulli from Roses, I've generally recommended it as a reasonable thing to do. I don't always recommend following what I do as the reasonable thing to do. No one's ever mentioned the price before. I assumed it was well less than that. It's good to know the price.