Tastes

[Florida Jim]

2001 Potel, Chambolle-Musigny:

Identifiably Chambolle on the nose; tart black fruit with red fruit accents; slightly disjointed on the palate with good structure, some depth of flavor, fairly open and good persistence. Probably needs a couple years to come together but I doubt it will ever be a “classy” wine. About $30.

2001 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot:

Less open and more black fruit than the Chambolle but also showing breed well beyond it; quite structured at the moment, some sweet fruit tones but not a lot of flavor; decent length. Obviously requiring cellar time but I’m not sure doing so will be worth the wait. About $25.

2003 Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras Cuvée Azalaïs:

Medium light aromas of plum and spice; black fruit, salt and spice on the palate which is surprisingly light on its feet, good concentration, some complexity, balanced and a mineral driven finish. This is 14% alcohol and you would never know it; not on the nose and certainly not on the palate. Savory, satisfying, $20 and superb with pork roast.

2003 Wirra Wirra Vineyards, Chardonnay Scrubby Rise:

Clean, crisp, well-made, ripe chardonnay that never saw any wood. Refreshing, pairs well with lighter fare, varietally correct and worth buying at $12.

2002 J. Drouhin, Volnay:

Within the context of Drouhin’s restrained style, this is almost flamboyant; pretty aromatics of mostly red fruit; very succulent and sweet fruit in the mouth with little concentration or depth, some intensity, structure and good balance; medium finish. This is more about pinot noir than Volnay, and it’s full of baby fat. Whether this will cellar is anybody’s guess but why bother – its lip-smackingly delicious now. About $20.

2002 Montesole, Greco di Tufo:

While not a variety lending itself to fat wines, this version is especially dry (although it rounds out somewhat as it warms); all green apple and stone on the nose; the palate adds unripe pineapple, resin and grapefruit pith flavors, all of which ride a laser-like core of acidity to a medium length, crisp finish with added notes of green tea. That may not sound especially appetizing but, surprisingly, it works beautifully with food (turkey sandwich and a light cheese plate) and leaves the taster refreshed. 12% alcohol, about $10 and has a short term shelf life, too.

Best, Jim