Bergen Record Restaurant Reviews

[dodge621]

Nick, this is how this whole thing started. I critiqued the Record's review and then ??

[Rail Paul]

I saw the Record's review for Sabor, which they liked. River Road, just north of Edgewater.  Is this the place which was formerly a Persian restaurant?

It's on my list of places, but I have to get up to An American Grill in Randolph first. I didn't notice a second review.

Record appear to rotate reviewers, with 3-4 people taking turns.

[ngatti]

Could you provide a link? I went to http://www.bergenrecord.com and checked the Entertainment/Dining section and the Lifestyle/Food section and couldn't find what you are referring to.

Rachel, you went to the right spot.  When you click on entertainment, on the right side of the screen click on dining.  There's a link to the last 3 or 4 reviews.

Nick

[ngatti]

Re: 'Rene A. Mack's' review of Sabor in the 6/14 edition of 'The Record'

by jumbo lump crab meat croquettes ($14) in a crisp coat the color of sundown.

These not-so-small crab croquettes make a savory appetizer. They are assembled as a salpicón of Maryland lump crab meat, finely diced red and green peppers bound with just Dijon mustard and coated in breadcrumbs before they are deep fried. Their underlying heat is derived from cayenne, cumin, and curry. A cool, diced yellow mango salsa exuding a hint of ginger is served on the side, and the plate is further garnished with vibrant red cherry tomatoes and a bold green frisée

I don't particularly care for bringing the description of this dish down to the subatomic level.  The breadcrumbs are starting to quantum tunnel into the salpicon.

Factoid:  Though the 'underlying heat' may be derived from cayenne, I doubt that the curry or cumin contribute much fire to the dish.

As the meal progressed, it was apparent that Sabor needs bigger tables or smaller plates, because our little corner of the world was awash in appetizers.

Too bad we don't get to hear about them.  I see only THREE appetizers described, and this after two visits.

There's a new place on River Road just past Edgewater where the women are hot and the mojitos cool; where servers move to a salsa beat ...Although the cuisine is based on classic dishes, Sabor succeeds on a very modern plane. The atmosphere is relaxed yet professional, casual yet respectful. The menu is small but select...A juxtaposition of hot and cold, of sweet and spicy, of sea and earth, it's a fairly light selection that is fulfilling.

Well...we are awash in something

The meal closed with pleasing desserts and rich cups of coffee. One delight is served in an oversize martini glass filled with fresh strawberries and papaya and real whipped cream. Heavenly.

For those who are more wicked, the delightful fried ripe bananas in a decadent caramel sauce and scoop of ice cream will seal the meal.

Two visits, I must assume at least two diners and all I get are these two desserts.  I'm still hungry!

Just my opinion: Real whipped cream = dog bites man.

                      Faked whipped cream = man bites dog.

All opinions are my own

YMMV

Nick

[ngatti]

Record appear to rotate reviewers, with 3-4 people taking turns.

Three or Four reviewers!!

Pat Mack

Rene Mack

Marge Perry

Nancy Thorpe

Lindy Washburn

Geoffry Paige

David Bonom

John Foy

Gawd knows who else??

Like that old transmision commercial with the guy holding the hose:

" Gee boss, I never worked on a transmission before."

"Gee boss, i never reviewed a restaurant before."

It's a train wreck as far as any kind of consistancy is concerned.  A real crapshoot, and it bugs a lot of people.

Nick

[Rachel Perlow]

Rachel, you went to the right spot.  When you click on entertainment, on the right side of the screen click on dining.  There's a link to the last 3 or 4 reviews.

I thought we'd already covered all that!

[ngatti]

Re: Lindy Washburn's review of The Mona Lisa Cafe in 6/14 edition of 'The Record'

This is the "diamond" review in 'The Record'.  The equivilent of Eric Asimov's: 'Twenty Five Dollars and Under' NYT's column.  This week "the Record' seems to get it right as 'The Mona Lisa Cafe' is BYOB with no appetizer costing more than $8.00 and no entree priced over $16.95.  The type of restaurant that, IMO, belongs on the 'diamond' reviews pages.  

Now for the cons:

Nevertheless, the evening was completely enjoyable. I think it had something to do with the solicitousness of our hostess and thedeliciousness of our dishes

Empahsis mine;  delociousness = ARGHHH!!

Here's the salad Tony offered on the specials board: mesclun greens with goat cheese, dried cranberries, and a raspberry vinaigrette ($7.95). When have dried cranberries ever been paired with goat cheese?

Dried cranberries?, Goat cheese?  Duhhh?  Get out much Lindy?

After the salad, all I needed was a light pasta dish. I chose the capellini primavera in pink sauce, reasonably priced at $7.95. This wasn't a nightly special or a highlight of the menu, but rather one of those standard dishes from the middle of the menu that shows whether a restaurant takes care to time its pasta to an al dente finish and to turn a good sauce. Mona Lisa passed both tests superbly. The sauce satisfied without an excess of creaminess.

Food criticism 101.  The 13th grade version.  Could we get on with the description and critique of the food and skip the methodology of dish selection.

The specials list included veal layered with grilled eggplant and garlic, known as veal alla casa ($16.95). Its flavor notes were earthy and dark, the veal quite tender. .

Factoid: Veal alla Casa =  The House Veal

Veal with burgundy ($14.95), also popular, is an Albanian variation on veal marsala, its sauce enhanced with tomatoes, onions, and mushrooms

Factoid: The French version is called Chasseur (shallots instead of onions)

            The Italian version is called Caccitore

            The English call it Hunter style

             etc. etc. etc.

A combination of chicken, veal, and shrimp with lemon butter sauce ($16.95) showed the careful handling of the fresh ingredients in a sauce that enticed without overwhelming the palate.

Well the sauce may not have overwhelmed, but I'm overwhelmed simply reading about the gauvonische combination of ingredients.  

. One night, we simply gave up on dessert and asked for the check.

Isn't this a violation of 'Restaurant Reviewers Code of Conduct'?

Dessert here is unpretentious, chosen directly from the supplier's catalog, which Mona brings to the table. Different items, imported from the Bindi warehouse in Totowa, were available on different nights

Considering both the tautology contained in the specific dish descriptions and within the general copy of 'The Record's' reviews, is it therefore assumed that the readers can deduce what 'Bindi' desserts are from this one line?

All opinions are my own

YMMV

Nick <--gionconda smiley