10 New Ones: It's the Best&Worst of Times

[John Talbott]

Dominique Bouchet, 11, rue Treilhard in the 8th, 01.01.45.61.09.46, closed weekends, Metro Monceau or St Augustin or Miromesnil. What can I say? Demorand would say “Wooooow!” Simon “Go? But yes!” Rubin: “three hearts, easy.” I was touted onto the ex-Crillon’s chef’s new place by Karen Fawcett of Bonjour Paris, who told me about it when we were stuck in line at Customs. Since then, of course, everyone is onto it. And with good reason. It’s top notch, at a reasonable price, with great ambience, décor, service and food. You think you’re back in time before restaurateurs became celebrities; Bouchet said in Figaro that he wanted a place where he can deal with the clientele and he does; not in the Passard manner, where you feel he’s doing it as an obligation, but like the young, eager guys in the Provinces or La Famille, who truly want your opinion on how certain dishes work. And they worked for me. The amuse-bouches consisted of radishes and lox on toast; top-quality both. My first course was escargots and artichoke hearts in a slightly spicy, savory tomato sauce; my second, quenelles of crustaceans on a bed of mushroom duxelles. When I looked around the room, all I saw were smiles; these were happy people. Anyone who’s reviewed books for academic publications knows that therein you have to point to a flaw, whether reviewing the Bible or Harry Potter, and here it’s the lack of ventilation (the one addicted smoker raised more than my eyebrow). I had a carafe of drinkable Bordeaux for 10 E and better than average coffee. No bottled water, cheese (from Cantin; looked mighty good) or dessert; the bill = 46 Euros, my lowest that week for the best meal by miles. Going back?; you bet, next week. Caution: because it’s been so well-reviewed, it’s already “complet” the day before; in three months, count on 30 days; and by November, when Lebey + Pudlo appear, faggetaboutit. A final note: I ate there the first time on January 27th and I’m aware of the “no politics” rule at eGullet.com, but that day, when France remembered the 60th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz and commemorated the Shoah, for those of us old enough to remember, was very moving and being fortunate enough to eat such superb food had a special meaning. Update: I ate there again the following week and because of a scheduling conflict had to eat a day earlier, called, “complet,” how about “au bar,” “sur,” and what a view of the maestro and his quartet working like it was easy to turn out 30 dishes every 20 minutes; he’s a bit different than some others I’ve watched in that he relays the orders to the line chefs, finishes off every dish and watches the salle and kitchen and bar attentively. It’s like those movies of guys monitoring 50 cameras over a Las Vegas casino. I liked this meal even better than the first and not just because he was talking with me continually; it made me realize why we eat out and not just at home. I can buy and have bought foie gras and scallops of the top quality he uses; but I could never replicate the sauces and spice combinations (respectively a rich dark brown sauce and a crustacean delight, both with microtomed truffles) and I’ve never had rosemary needles in the tuilles, inspired! He says he doesn’t care about the guide books, everyone comes by word of mouth, but he will worry when they cause a flood that chases the regulars out. Oh, all the other dishes I saw being prepared, served and consumed looked super. Have I ever written this long a tribute? Nah.

Cinq Mars, 51, rue de Verneuil in the 7th, 01.45.44.69.13, Metro Rue du Bac, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, lunch menu (a forced choice of 1st, main and dessert, the day I was there it was artichokes and shrimp, chicken and a tart?) at 21,50 E, a la carte 35-40 E, mine ran much more, like 50E but it was worth every Euro. This is the place Sebastien Demorand of Zurban said he’d like to run once he’s tried of restaurant critiquing, and I agree. It’s a perfect “new” bistro (John Whiting take notice). What do I mean? It’s old looking (scraped stairs, exposed beams, old chairs) but with new touches (the bar, refurbished tables, clean wall) and food that is classic bistro stuff but done modernly. Example, my grilled peppers had just the right amount and quality of virgin olive oil, salt and pepper and were on a bed of greens that no one served here before the 1990’s; the pot-au-feu had a hunk of beef that was not mushy but crisp and crunchy on the outside as if it had been barbequed; and the chocolate mousse was made with high class stuff, not the industrial chocolate one’s used to. Several of the wines were available by the ficelle (e.g. measured by the “string,” like “Marking by the Twain,” charging you only how much you consume) and the coffee was from Cellini. The staff was as warm and welcoming as it gets; the clientele amiable, only one smoker, no English spoken (one table of Italian residents and one with an expat American antique dealer). It reminded me in ambience and a bit in food of the old, late, lamented Chez Catherine. PS. Neighbors had the sausage on a huge pile of pureed potatoes and they finished every bit; the tuna slabs looked inviting; and a table having the veal blanquette looked happy. I’m going back soon.

La Cafetiere, 21, rue Mazarine, 01.46.33.76.90.21, Metro Odeon was a new bistro recommended to me by a local expert. It’s in the old Casa Corsa space and serves honorable bistro food, but not nearly in a class with Cinq Mars. We had the lentilles and the leeks for starters, then a standard but acceptable tartare of beef and an above-standard crispy, tasty lapin, both served with huge amounts of mashed potatoes, and topped it off with a moelleux of chocolate and a crème caramel and good coffee; the bill was 80 Euros. If I lived near here or was going to school nearby to brush up on my French, I’d frequent it.

La Poele d’Or, 37 rue du Miromesnil in the 8th, 01.42.65.78.60, Metro Miromesnil, was on Margaret Kemp of Bonjour Paris’s Top 10 of 2004 list but a friend warned me off; however, one day I was unsure of where to go and Francois Simon had that morning published a glowing review; plus as opposed to Pudlo’s estimate of 80 Euros a la carte, Simon said they had a menu-carte for 38 E; red caution! they don’t. But I found the food quite good. I had a perfectly cooked (that is, pink and bloody, as ordered) veal’s liver and a wonderful soufflé with essence of chestnuts. What could have been 80 E turned out slightly less than 50 E but I’d watch the prices.

Auberge & Cie, 23, rue Clauzel in the 9th, 01.48.78.74.40, Metro St Georges, closed Saturdays at lunch and Sundays. They have a regular menu-carte at 32€ and a degustation menu at much more and say they don’t take credit cards if your bill is under 50€; no problem. I took the 32€ menu (the other one had foie gras in every starter and I was foie gras’d out that day). My starter was a portion of snails in a wonderful sauce (? what the spices were) and they offered me a spoon, which I used. The main was a confit of duck which came with what was described as a galette of potatoes but was unlike the standard one; not that it was bad, this was sliced potatoes in a creamy sauce on a flaky pastry round which was superb. I ended with the moelleux of chocolate which wasn’t the best nor the worst I’ve had. With wine and coffee it was 47 Euros.

Now we get to the disappointments. I decided to revisit the Bistrot Cote Mer, 16, bd St Germain in the 5th, 01.43.54.59.10; a place I loved for not only being open for that rarity, Sunday lunch, but for its superb bar de ligne and langoustines and crepes with Grand Marnier and Illy coffee. Of course it’s all changed since Carole Rostang took off to open Absinthe - no more Sundays, no more Rostang connections/produce/wines, no more superb, fresh fish (my daurade smelled like it was still dying); what remained – the tattered seats, ersatz plants and Illy coffee and Illy cups. The good news; I think it’s cheaper than before for the prix fixe; 17 E for a 1st, main, glass of wine and coffee; for 22 E you can add a dessert (but not the famed crepes), but the bad news, I swear the a la carte prices have gone way up.

Auguste, 54, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th, 01.45.51.61.09, Metro=Varenne, was a real disappointment. We, or at least I, expected as good a meal as at Bouchet above, especially after the glowing article in that week’s Le Figaro; the chef Gael Orieux’s provenance, (the Meurice), the fact his suppliers were those Yannick Alleno uses, and the gentle prices of the wines (starting at 14 E a bottle and 5 E a glass.) Three of us had three firsts, of which only the cannelloni of leeks were inspired (the cold cauliflower soup with oysters and endives with ham were a big nothing) and then three mains, of which only the bar was worth commenting on (again the chicken and lamb fell flat, and the lamb was not cooked as asked for – e.g. rose). We fled before cheese or dessert. Our bill = 164 E for three. 33% success does not meet my standard, esp. at those prices.

La Cabane, 96, rue de Levis in the 17th, 01.46.22.51.50, open for every meal but Monday night, Metro=Malesherbes. Sunday lunch’s slim pickings prompted me to try this place tucked way up in the strange part of the 17th. Why strange? Answer: Two French men asked me directions and I assure you, I didn’t look like I was at home. Anyway, it’s a very nice place, nicely renovated, nicely reviewed, nice looking oysters, nice staff, etc. Where’s the but? But, except for the oysters, it was ordinary; a cassolette of sea creatures and shocking pink praline tart were both only so-so. Cheap tho’; menu 21 E with a glass of wine, coffee 2 Euros. And if you’re staying at a hotel nearby, it’s a safe haven; but it doesn’t match l’Huitrier just a kilometer or so southwest.

L’Autobus Imperial ex-Royal Mondetour, 14, rue Mondetour in the 1st, 01.42.36.00.18, closed Sundays, Metro= Les Halles, was a place where Sebastien Demorand loved the squid and desserts and Rubin gave two hearts; I did not score as well; I loved the salade perigourdine - very, very tender and tasty gesiers and a bit of duck breast - indeed it was the best gesiers’ dish I’ve had since the much-mourned Chez Tony closed, the only problem, like Passard, the chef covered his sins with salt. In addition, the squid just didn’t live up to its reputation (or compared with that at the rue Delambre Bistro du Dome) and the coffee was not serre as I’d asked; I left without dessert. My bill was 37.50 E. I cannot see how this place got as many hearts as Cerisaie, l’Abadache, Fables, Brasserie Lorraine, etc., etc. etc.) It is a really antique looking place, and I say that in the best sense, and if I’d stumbled in, in the 1950’s, I think I would have liked it; but French cuisine has moved on since then and so have I.

Le Square, 227 bis, rue Marcadet in the 18th, 01.53.11.08.41 Metro=Guy Moquet open everyday (they say), menu 13 E at lunch, a la carte 35E. The amuse-bouche was diced tomatoes like at l’Huitrier, and then I had a nice flan of courgettes with decent, albeit frozen, crevettes and a nice crustacean sauce and beef cheeks with thinly sliced correctly under-cooked carrots. Bill=35 E. What’s wrong with this picture? Sebastian Demorand said they need more time; he was being kind; they over-spiced and over-salted everything. In this out of the way, very nice, quiet and sleepy residential part of 18th , it ain’t gonna survive plus who will schlep out to it?

P.S. Reading this again before posting, it makes it look like I’ve got it in for Alain Passard; not true, but his name popped into my head twice this week when I things I associate with him happened. Sorry Alain.

Edited by John Talbott Feb 6th to fix wrong resto on rue Delambre; it is the Bistrot du Dome, the offshoot of Le Dome.

[Laidback]

"In addition, the squid just didn’t live up to its reputation (or compared with that at the rue Delambre Bistro Cote Mer) ...."

John was this a typo, referring instead to the Bistro du Dome on Delambre? For years this was a Sunday favorite of mine for good, relatively inexpensive seafood, but I have heard it has slipped lately. Do you have any recent info if there has been a change in management or have you tried it recently.

I am very grateful for your postings and will definitely try Bouchet, Cinq Mars, Cerisaie, etc. while in Paris this Spring. Thanks again for your efforts.

[Images]

Thank you so much for your excellent reviews! I've been waiting. Where was the v fancy place you dined where the men all wore suits and ties, and were out of there in 59 minutes or less?? Still wondering!

Thanks for all your help.

[John Talbott]

"In addition, the squid just didn’t live up to its reputation (or compared with that at the rue Delambre Bistro Cote Mer) ...."

John was this a typo, referring instead to the Bistro du Dome on Delambre? For years this was a Sunday favorite of mine for good, relatively inexpensive seafood, but I have heard it has slipped lately. Do you have any recent info if there has been a change in management or have you tried it recently.

I am very grateful for your postings and will definitely try Bouchet, Cinq Mars, Cerisaie, etc. while in Paris this Spring. Thanks again for your efforts.

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Good catch; I'll fix

Yes; My wife Colette and I ate at the B du Dome New Year's Day this year and had the bar and scallops and I couldn't distinguish it from our first meal there in the summer of 1991. It's ideal when everything else is closed.

[John Talbott]

Thank you so much for your excellent reviews! I've been waiting. Where was the v fancy place you dined where the men all wore suits and ties, and were out of there in 59 minutes or less?? Still wondering!

Thanks for all your help.

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It was the La Poele d’Or, 37 rue du Miromesnil in the 8th

[Poppy Quince]

We're dining with friends in Paris in May and this restaurant looks interesting: right price range, right neighborhood, good review from someplace, although I can't recall where, and new to us all. Does anyone have any experience with it? Or alternative suggestions fitting those criteria? (Obviously you won't know if we've been there before! )

Another issue is that one of the party is severely allergic to any form of pepper. Usually a call in advance is enough to determine whether this allergy can be accommodated, but any recommendations would have to take this into account.

Thanks for any help.

[John Talbott]

We're dining with friends in Paris in May and this restaurant looks interesting: right price range, right neighborhood, good review from someplace, although I can't recall where, and new to us all.  Does anyone have any experience with it?  Or alternative suggestions fitting those criteria?  (Obviously you won't know if we've been there before! )

Another issue is that one of the party is severely allergic to any form of pepper.  Usually a call in advance is enough to determine whether this allergy can be accommodated,  but any recommendations would have to take this into account.

Thanks for any help.

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I went a bit over a year ago

L’Autobus Imperial ex-Royal Mondetour, 14, rue Mondetour in the 1st, 01.42.36.00.18, closed Sundays, Metro= Les Halles, was a place where Sebastien Demorand loved the squid and desserts and Rubin gave two hearts; I did not score as well; I loved the salade perigourdine - very, very tender and tasty gesiers and a bit of duck breast - indeed it was the best gesiers’ dish I’ve had since the much-mourned Chez Tony closed, the only problem, like Passard, the chef covered his sins with salt. In addition, the squid just didn’t live up to its reputation (or compared with that at the rue Delambre Bistro du Dome) and the coffee was not serre as I’d asked; I left without dessert. My bill was 37.50 E. I cannot see how this place got as many hearts as Cerisaie, l’Abadache, Fables, Brasserie Lorraine, etc., etc. etc.) It is a really antique looking place, and I say that in the best sense, and if I’d stumbled in, in the 1950’s, I think I would have liked it; but French cuisine has moved on since then and so have I.

[Poppy Quince]

Thanks, John. It looks like we'll choose somewhere else. We're now thinking of Histoire Gourmande, Le Mesturet or Aux Lyonnais, although the last is pricier than we would prefer. We'd like to be within easy walking distance of Palais Royale and have already tried Maceo, Le Grand Colbert, Willi's. Any advice?

[John Talbott]

Thanks, John.  It looks like we'll choose somewhere else.  We're now thinking of Histoire Gourmande, Le Mesturet or Aux Lyonnais, although the last is pricier than we would prefer. We'd like to be within easy walking distance of Palais Royale and have already tried Maceo, Le Grand Colbert, Willi's.  Any advice?

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Easy walking distance, if you order sagely at lunch is Drouant, Casaluna is kinda fun too as is Un jour a Peyrassol, a truffle-lover's heaven. I also like Alice Bardet's Le Point Bar in the Marche St Honore.