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Paris, live music and good food


andrew_j_craig

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A Eurostar visit to Paris has me wanting to do something a little different next Saturday night. Paris has a vibrant jazz music scene, right? There must be some place where the food is more than acceptable, the atmosphere relaxed yet vibrant, where there are seats for all and the music is good. My searches to date have been in vain.

The China Club near La Bastille comes recommended for its live music selection but I am not sure a three course cantonese meal is quite worth travelling to Paris for.

Make no mistake, no Folies Bergeres or Moulin Rouge for me.

Any recommendations?

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Hopefully I kept the Rick Steves guide book in my bag when I returned last week from a Paris vacation (my fiance my have it - will have to check tonight). I distinctly recall seeing a listing for a jazz club described as being possibly the only jazz club in Paris where good food was available - I think the music may be downstairs from the dining room but it sounded like a good scene. I recall that it's on either Ile de la Cite or Ile St Louis and is at a corner by a bridge where the Left Bank connects to the island.

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I'm not absolutely certain but I think this may be the place I was thinking of. I can't vouch for the food but this being Paris, it's likely to be far better than the deplorable food offerings I've seen in US jazz clubs (the Triple Door in Seattle being the happy exception to the rule).

Franc Pinot 1 quai bourbon, Ile St Louis, Paris 75004.

Tel: 01 46 33 60 64

[Tues-Thurs: Piano/Vocal 8.30-12.30. Restaurant/bar/cocktails in Parisian 'cave' with vaulted ceilings in the heart of Paris!]

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Paris does have a lively jazz scene. I think you can have dinner at Le Bilboquet on the rue St-Benoit in the 6th, but I doubt the food is great and my impression is the place is past its prime musically. Maybe not though. I have always had an early dinner elsewhere before going to a club. It used to be easy to find out who is playing where at jazzvalley.com, but they closed the website down a while back. In addition to the previously mentioned Franc Pinot, other possibilities include Duc des Lombards, Sunset/Sunside, and Sept Lezards. The bar at the Hotel Lutetia has a trio and usually a vocalist Wednesday through Saturday beginning about 10:00 pm for the price of a moderately expensive drink. It's an easy drop-in place after dinner, but you don't get the cellar atmosphere.

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Why don't you pick up a "Pariscope" for the week. Think you can get one in London, or view it over the net. It will give you who's at all the clubs, phone numbers, websites, etc. and you can check out the food situation.

We went to hear Jimmy Smith (probably a bigger fan base in Paris than in Cleveland) at one of the LesHalles clubs. They were serving food, some were eating, but it wasn't a place I'd dine. Looked like several in theneighborhood combined food and music.

dave

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Why don't you pick up a "Pariscope" for the week.  dave

Zurban is the Pariscope for young folk; lots of jazz listed; appears same day, Wednesday. Much more vibrant. Ironically tho it started as a web pub, its only available in hard copy now.

I would add my caution that good food and music are not likely to be found in the same place, except the Garnier where their "catered" food is fabulous.

Edited by John Talbott for othography.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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We went to hear Jimmy Smith (probably a bigger fan base in Paris than in Cleveland) at one of the LesHalles clubs.

I'd go all the way back to Paris to hear him. Definitely.

Edited to add: I just checked the Rick Steves guide book and the restaurant/club I referenced above si the place he mentioned. The full name is Le Cave au Franc Pinot. I hardly consider Rick Steves as a go-to source for food info but of all the jazz clubs they listed it's the only one mentioned as having good food.

Edited by phaelon56 (log)
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