James Beard House

[cabrales]

The James Beard Foundation is hosting a 2002 Chef and Champagne Event on Saturday, July 27, 5-8 pm. The venue is the Wolffer Estate Winery at Sagaponack, NY. The cost is $150/person for JB Foundation members, and $200 for guests.  

The honored chef is Boulud. I am uncertain what champagne or food, if any, will be available.  If eGulleteers are interested in attending and are sure about their attendance, I could consider purchasing guest tickets on their behalf.

I will post additional information as it becomes available.  

[Liza]

Cabrales, how I wish I could attend, but I have to be elsewhere. I look forward to reading your description after the fact.

[cabrales]

Liza -- I'm not sure I'll attend. However, I noted that photos of the following chefs were included in a Beard newsletter: David Feau of Lutece, Kerry Heffernan of Eleven Madison Park, Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar and Grill, Oscar Palacios of Le Bernardin (unclear interaction with Ripert), Julian Alonzo of Brasserie 8 1/2, Neil Annis of Compass, Kiong Banh of Twenty Manning (Philly), Florian Bellanger of Fauchon NY, Dante Boccuzzi of Charlie Palmer's Aureole, Rebecca Charles of Pearl Oyster Bar, Ann Cooper of The Ross School (East Hampton), Paul Del Favero of The Madison Arms (East Hapton), Richard Farnabe of Lotus, Joseph Fortunato of The Tonic, Doug Gulija of The Plaza Cafe (Southampton), Tim Kelley of Zoe, Stephen Lyle of Village, Mauro Mafrici of i Trulli, Henry Meer of City Hall and Club Room, Don Pintabona of Tribeca Grill, Durga Prasad of Tamarind (replacement for Peter Beck; Prasad used to be tandoori chef at Tamarind), Dino Redzic of Amici Amore I (Astoria), John Reilly of Great Performance (caterer in NY), Craig Samuel of the Club Room, Claude Solliard of Seppi's and Alex Urena of Marseille. It is unclear what the involvement of the described chefs may be, or what food items might be offered at the event.

[Patrice]

Oscar Palacios is the pastry chef of Le Bernardin

[cabrales]

James Beard's August 2002 Previews include a September 19 "Friends of James Beard Benefit -- A Moveable Feast" with Dan Barber of Blue Hill and Claudia Fleming of Gramercy Tavern. Also included are Rick Laakonen of Ilo, Douglas Rodriguez of Chicama and Pipa, Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit, Tom Valenti of Ouest and Zarela Martinez of Zarela. This is an out-of-house event (i.e., not located at the J Beard facility), and will be held at Boylan Studios, 601 W. 26th St.

Tickets for the above event are $75 for Beard members and their guests for general admission 7-9 pm, and $125 for VIP admission 6-7 pm. Apparently, the event does *not* include dinner -- only stations/stalls/laid out (?) food and wine would be included.

Interesting October J Beard in-house events include: (1) Monday, October 21: Winemaker Dinner with Christian Delouvrier of Lespinasse with Deutz champagne, and (2) Wednesday, October 2 dinner with Morimoto. Both events are somewhat appealing.

Michael Romano will prepare a Bordeaux Lovers' Dinner on Tuesday, October 22 with wines from Chateau d'Issan and Chateau Les Granges.

Coming up in September, but earlier disclosed are (1) Ron Siegel of Masa's, on Saturday, September 28, and (2) Colin Alevras of Tasting Room on Monday, September 9.

[cabrales]

Interestingly, on the Calendar on the Blue Hill site, the "Moveable Feast" event is described as being August 15. Note Dan Barber with be one of the chefs cooking at James Beard on August 6 (menu reportedly with an "old" vs. "new" theme).

[cabrales]

Durga Prasad of Tamarind (replacement for Peter Beck; Prasad used to be tandoori chef at Tamarind)

In the James Beard August 2002 Calendar & Newsletter, there is the following retraction regarding the prior reporting on Beck's departure: "The heat must be getting to our heads -- Peter Beck has not left Tamarind, as we mistakenly reported in last month's New York City Dateline column. He continues to make some of the city's best Indian food at Tamarind with Durga Prasad . . . . [who] runs the tandori end of things. We apologize for the error."

[southern girl]

Here is the menu for the Oct. 7th James Beard Dinner with Michael and Wendy Jordan of Rosemary's in Las Vegas. Both chefs spent a large portion of their careers in New Orleans (he as the CDC at Emeril's and she at Bayona and Peristyle). The menu has a southern/southwestern lean. If anyone decides to give it a try, let me know as I will be in attendance and would love to meet any other eGulleteers in attendance .

Passed Hors D'oevres

Hugo's Texas BBQ Shrimp with Crumbled Maytag Bleu Cheese

Lobster and Preserved Lemon Salad on Brioche with Saffron Aioli

Roasted Tomato Risotto Cake with Garlic Coulis

Wine: Robert Mondavi WInery Sauvignon Blanc "Stag's Leap" 2000

Beer: Unibroue Blanche de Chambly

First Course

Goat Cheese Stuffed Piquillo Peppers with Basil Pesto Sauce & Watercress Proscuitto Rosette

Wine: Robert Mondavi Reserve Chardonnay 1998

Second Course

Butternut Squash Soup with Spice Cream & Fried Sage

Beer: Unibroue La Fin du Monde

Third Course

Seared Sea Scallop on a Bed of Parsnip Potato Puree with Fried Parsnips, Crispy Apple Smoked Bacon & Apple Cider Buerre Blanc

Wine: Robert Mondavi "Carneros" Pinot Noir 2000

Fourth Course

Peppered Filet of Beef on Garlic Braised Spinach with Bleu Cheese Glacage

Grilled Scallions & Foie Gras Walnut Reduction Sauce

Wine: Robert Mondavi "Oakville" Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Fifth Course

Strawberry Boston Cream Oie with Dark Chocolate

Wine: Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc Botrytis 2000

[cabrales]

Here are some other interesting Beard dinners -- September 28, Ron Siegel of Masa; October 2, Morimoto; October 21 -- Winemaker Dinner, Christian Delouvrier of Lespinasse, working with Deutz champagne.

[cabrales]

Interesting October J Beard in-house events include: (1) Monday, October 21: Winemaker Dinner with Christian Delouvrier of Lespinasse with Deutz champagne . . .

James Beard recently released the menu for the Delouvrier/Deutz dinner. Note that many of the pairings do not involve Deutz champagne, but relate to Delas Freres, a Rhone producer also owned by the Roederer group and supervised by Fabrice Rosset.

Note tickets have sold out. (Having been frustrated with the regular membership level and the early sell-out to fellows and other members paying higher dues, I am a fellow member and was able to secure a ticket. )

RECEPTION

Bluefin tuna tartare with yellow, green and red peppers; smoked tuna, olive oil and red wine

Patagonia shrimp with vinaigrette of pea shoots, romaine and garbanzo beans

Fillet of Atlantic rouget with salad of haricots verts, black olives and tomato

Hot tourte of duck and foie gras with green salad

Served with Champagne Deutz Brut Classic NV

DINNER

Sauteed Hudson Valley foie gras with reduction of verjus and shallot confit, Cuvee William Deutz 1995 (This will be interesting, as Michel Guerard also has a verjus-based foie gras preparation)

Lobster in a ragout of butternut squash, cepes and chestnuts, Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage Les Launes Blanc 1999

Brittany sole goujeonettes with fumet, tomatoes, fennel, and white mushrooms, Delas Freres Condrieu La Galopine 1999

Wild duck roasted on the spit with galette of potatoes and onion, red wine and cornas sauce, Delas Freres St Joseph Francois de Tournou 1999

Braised lamb shank with grilled leg of lamb, cranberry beans, flageolets, fava and yellow beans, haricot verts, and jus naturel, Delas Freres Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette 1999

Patrice Caillot's dessert selection, Deutz Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2000

[cabrales]

Laurent Gras of SF's Fifth Floor (and formerly of NY's Peacock Alley) will cook at the James Beard House on Wednesday, January 22, 2003.

Separately, Michael White of Fiamma will cook there on Monday, January 27, 2003. However, White's cuisine is more accessible at this point due to the location of his restaurant.

[ajay]

Do members feel that Beard House meals are an adequate vehicle to sample a given chef's cuisine? Note though I have never attended one of these dinners, the reports I hear make them sound more like catered food rather than intersting windows into a chef's cuisinee. I'd appreciate members' input.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I have attended two Beard meals and I was disappointed with the quality of the food served. And I find the space cramped and don't really enjoy eating there. So based on those two reasons I didn't join. But I'm sure it's like anything else, some meals are better then others.

[Robert Schonfeld]

Mazal and I had dinner at the Fifth Floor a few nights ago. New York's loss is San Francisco's gain.

[tommy]

Do members feel that Beard House meals are an adequate vehicle to sample a given chef's cuisine?  Note though I have never attended one of these dinners, the reports I hear make them sound more like catered food rather than intersting windows into a chef's cuisinee.  I'd appreciate members' input.

it's better than your average restaurant, but probably not a fair way of judging a chef's cuisine. first off, so much more goes into a restaurant than just food. second, it certainly isn't an ideal situation for the chef or his crew, having to prepare the meal banquet style, in a strange and cramped kitchen, and probably after traveling and stressing over the whole thing that day.

however, it is a nice night out, and gives you a chance to talk to the chefs and ask questions/nag the chefs and their crew as they prepare 70 covers at once. during warm weather, it's a more enjoyable experience overall, as the cocktail hour moves outside into the back yard. otherwise, the cocktail hour is held in a very small room and gets crowded to the point of discomfort. the seating for dinner isn't all that much better, as you're generally sat with strangers. that may or may not be an issue for people.

[laura]

Laurent Gras is an incredible chef! I was very sad when he left NYC for SF so thanks Cabrales for alerting us to his return, brief as it may be but always welcome.

[Bux]

Dining with strangers who are intrested in food may be the biggest advantage there is to dining at the James Beard house. I think cabrales put it succinctly when she alluded to the fact that you are likely to better sample Michael White's cooking at Fiamma, where he has his own kitchen, staff and everything he needs. By no means are the facilities at the Beard House superior to most restaurant kitchens and the chef is not at home when he's there. My experience is similar to Plotnicki's. I ate a dish that I had eaten at the restaurant being featured and it was far better prepared at the restaurant than at the James Beard lunch. Short cuts were taken in terms of ingredients and technique. It's an honor to cook at James Beard House, but you get to donate your time and and at least some of the materials, as far as I know. I suppose it's a way to sample the food of out of town chefs, but the home restaurant is a better place to do it.

[cabrales]

I agree with Bux. However, a dinner at the JB House is a convenient way to get a potential indication of what taking in the chef's cuisine at his restaurant may be like. Note that the price of a JB meal is generally slightly lower than at the applicable restaurant because (1) no tips/taxes are required to be paid above the indicated price (which is usually in the $85-100 range per person), and (2) the price includes different wine (albeit not particularly good wine necessarily) poured by the glass.

Also, a difficulty with JB membership is that the least expensive level of membership was frustrating for me because I would learn about events only after tickets had been bought up by higher-category members. I am now in the second-lowest category, and that appears to be fine for my participation in any events in which I am interested.

[cabrales]

Anna Sortun of Oleana is cooking at James Beard on November 21. The menu was recently released ($85 for members, $110 for guests). I am passing on this one, as I plan to eat at Oleana, Boston, in the next year or so.

--Reception:

Hot buttered hummus with basturma (?)

Fried mussels with Turkish tarator (?) sauce and romaine

Walnut kibbeh with feta and parsley

Domaine St Andrew de Figuiere Cuvee Valerie 2001

-- Dinner

Pumpkin Borek with apple-arugula salad and tahini, Domaine Saint Andre de Figuiere Grand Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Rose 2001

Seared scallop with Egyptian spice mix, spicy carrot puree, and spinach, with Thabani Sauvignon Blanc 2002

Fideos and chickpeas with Swiss chard and toasted-orange aioli, Domaine des Ramiere Lirac 2000

Braised Bramble Hill Farm lamb with Turkish spices and fava bean moussaka, Couly-Dutheil Clos de l'Olive Chinon 1995

Syrup-soaked palace bread pudding with rose, pistachios, and clotted cream

[Suzanne F]

Cabrales: are the ?s because you are unfamiliar with the item? YOU? I thought you had eaten nearly everything.

"Basturma" is similar to Roumanian pastrami -- spiced, cured beef -- except that the spicing is a little different; according to Tess Mallos, "a large quantity of fenugreek is included in the garlic and spice coating."

"Tarator" is a sauce of bread, nuts (walnuts or hazelnuts), olive oil, wine vinegar, and garlic, all pureed together. There are variations with pine nuts, and others with tahini instead of the nuts. But the Turkish version is the first.

The whole menu sounds terrific. I hope when I'm in Beantown next month I get to eat there.

[cabrales]

Suzanne -- I did not know those ingredients. As background, I am interested in French cuisine; other cuisines are not as subjectively engaging for me.

[Suzanne F]

That's what I figured. But how about objectively? I just have a hard time imagining limiting oneself to only one cuisine. When I call myself an omnivore, I REALLY mean it.

[cabrales]

Laurent Gras of SF's Fifth Floor (and formerly of NY's Peacock Alley) will cook at the James Beard House on Wednesday, January 22, 2003.

I don't know if the dinner is sold out by now, but Gras is preparing a *black truffle dinner* (menu not yet available). I am looking forward to this event. Price was less than $100 with wine included and with no need to leave additional tax/tips. Quite a bargain.

Hmm -- With the Montreal festival, the Chicago Tru J Beard benefit and the NY JB House benefit, Gras is really working on promoting his cuisine of late.

Edited December 18, 2002 by cabrales (log)

[Lesley C]

At the Montreal Highlights Festival, Le Lutétia at the Hotel de la Montagne have invited Laurent Gras on February 24 and 25 (four-course menu $95). The next night you could hop over to Michel DelBurgo's menu at the Montreal Casino ($150 with wine). And the night after that, you could head over to Toque! for Barcelona chef Xavier Pellicer's dinner. BTW, these are all Cnd $$$

[cabrales]

I don't know if the dinner is sold out by now, but Gras is preparing a *black truffle dinner* (menu not yet available).

Here is Laurent Gras' menu for January 22, 2002:

Reception: Black Truffles Croutons

Veuve Clicquot Rose Brut 1996

Dinner:

Main Lobster Poached in Rich Truffle Broth With Frisee Salad and Coral-Ginger Vinaigrette, Dominique Cornin Domaine de Lalande Clos Reyssie Pouilly Fuisse 2000

Halibut Braised with Endives and Truffle, with Charles Hours Cuvee Marie Jurancon 2000

Niman Ranch Pork Belly Poached Slowly with Black Truffle and Roasted Crispy on the Skin with Truffle Jus, with Chateau St-Steve d'Uchaux Vieilles Vignes Cotes-du-Rhone 1999

Guanaja Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse Flavored with Black Truffle and Served with Dark Berry Marmalade, with Niepoort LBV 1997