The changing menus of French Chefs in NY

[John Talbott]

I’m not sure about the interests on the New York Forum, but in my sweep of publications in Paris for the Paris Digest, I occasionally come across articles that cover restaurants elsewhere. In Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde, their food critic, Jean-Claude Ribaut, wrote an article roughly translated as a “A new diet for New York.” In it he talks of how Americans’ “obsession” with dieting has modified the menus of restaurants, even those run by French chefs. He then goes on to mention what is commonly known, the demise of four great tables: Lutece, Lespinasse, Cote Basque + Caravelle which effectively ended the 1960’s initiated craze for soufflés and crayfish with creamy cheese sauce and he also notes the recent decline in interest in foie gras not only as a result of the California decision but on dietary grounds, despite the fact that two Quebec farmers in Saint-Alexis-de-Montcalm make excellent goose foie gras. He notes that while the French-inspired restaurants: Daniel, Le Bernardin, Jean-Georges, Bouley + Alain Ducasse are terribly influential, New Yorkers are now used to picking up fresh products at places like Faraway [sic] and despite the publicity surrounding the French paradox (ironically featuring southwestern French products such as Cahors wine and confited duck) or the best seller “French Women Don’t get Fat,” are in the thrall of low-carb Atkinsesque diets. Finally to his point, that French chefs in New York are changing their fare, he cites as examples and gives sample dishes at: DB Bistro moderne, Mix in New York, Le Montrachet + Caviar and Banana Brasserio. This is probably more than you wanted to know about penguins, but if you’d like to see the original article, it’ll be on the Le Monde website for a few more hours.

[oakapple]

Interesting comments. I'm not so sure that foie gras is in decline, though. I have yet to visit a serious restaurant that doesn't offer it.

[zeitoun]

Interesting article, however the body of the article doesn’t always follow the gist of the author’s argument. One remark I noted for instance:

In my eyes, the demise of some of New York’s “grandes tables” is certainly not the outgrowth of a sudden need for dietary change amongst New Yorkers. By making reference to such restaurant closings in his opening remarks, he seems to clearly make that connection. The author does mention himself that some restaurants such as Daniel, Le Bernardin, have successfully adapted their menus to reflect such dietary preferences. The closure of Lespinasse, Lutece etc… is rather (and he says this himself) a manifestation of change in style and time, not so much style of food itself but rather a need to depart from a “stuffy” and antiquated atmosphere and service which has become less in demand of late. I doubt “dietary motives” had much to do with such restaurants’ closures.

John, one correction about his reference to "Faraway" though (if I may): He claims that pret a manger (prepackaged food) is more popular than purchasing fresh products. A quick reference to New Yorkers' habit of still relying on quickly prepared and easy-to-get food (as in not cooked at home). This argument might not hold true everywhere..

[John Talbott]

John, one correction about his reference to "Faraway" though (if I may): He claims that pret a manger (prepackaged food) is more popular than purchasing fresh products. A quick reference to New Yorkers' habit of still relying on quickly prepared and easy-to-get food (as in not cooked at home). This argument might not hold true everywhere..

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Better translation and sense, I fell back on my memory that Fairways is known for fresh produce not prepared stuff.

[Bux]

"Faraway" must be the very uptown branch of Fairway. A good coinage there, if I must say so myself. I'd argue that none of the three star restaurants in Paris show any less interest in lighter food than Daniel, Le Bernardin, or Jean Georges. Although I've only eaten in a few of them, I believe I've eaten in a representative sampling of the various levels of stars in Paris and they show the same trend he sees in NY. Yes, there are salads on the menu at db Bistro Moderne, but their hangar steak garnished with oxtail ragout. Foie gras appears only in the Sirloin Burger filled with Braised Short Ribs, Foie Gras and Black Tuffles served on a Parmesan Bun with Pommes Soufflées or Pommes Frites -- a quintessential diet dish appealing to health food faddists. This is Daniel's "bistro." It features country duck pate, not terrine of foie gras. I wonder if the writer has had much success finding soufflés and crayfish with creamy cheese sauce in top Paris restaurants these days. He is correct in noting that New Yorkers are faddists and will run through dishes and styles all too quickly, but food styles in the 21st century in Paris seem to be moving almost as fast. That dining in Paris and New York is different is not news. What's news is how that difference has shrunk in the last half or quarter century. I suggest Jean-Claude Ribaut is an excellent detective. He found what he was looking for. I wonder if he was reading newspapers from the eighties or nineties to get some of his information. It seems rehashed and less than up to date. Or perhaps it's just the comparison to Paris that seems out of date.

[bloviatrix]

I would disagree that those restaurants closed because of dietary trends. Rather some closed because their cuisine no longer appealed to the dining public.

I heard several prominent NY chefs speak several weeks ago and the topic of diet fads came up. Michael Lomanaco, now chef at Guastavino, recalled that when he was chef at "21" he was encouraged to develop all sorts of low-fat items for the menu because low-fat diets were the trend at the time. He came up with assorted dishes, and on the menu they noted said dishes and pointed out they were heart healthy. The result -- it was a waste of time. No ordered them. They stuck with the regular menu offerings.

[zeitoun]

I would disagree that those restaurants closed because of dietary trends.  Rather some closed because their cuisine no longer appealed to the dining public.

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That is correct. However, I would note that style of cuisine is not the only element of appeal to the dining public.

I had dinner at both La Cote Basque and La Caravelle a few weeks before they closed this past year. My dining experiences at both were radically different.

La Cote Basque offered a menu that was, I am sure, not any different than what they served 10 years ago. Banal and extremely unappealing. On the other hand, I was pleasantly surprised with La Caravelle which offered a menu that was remarkably creative, light and frankly, reflective of contemporary culinary trends.

What lacked at both restaurants though was the concept (the room and the service) which was very classic French, out of date and passé. I think everything at La Cote Basque was antiquated, uninteresting and led to its demise. This explains why Jean Jacques Rachou has completely rebuilt both his restaurant and his concept. La Caravelle would have survived with its menu (even after Tadashi Ono’s departure). Everything else needed transformation though.