Korean Duck

[chefzadi]

One of the most memorable meals I've ever had was outside of Seoul. Sorry, I can't remember the name of the restaurant of where it was at all. Duck isn't commonly used in Korean preparations. And as I understand this is place is one of the only, if not the only restaurant in Korea that serves duck in this manner.

The restaurant had mostly outdoor seating. Our table overlooked a pond of ducks. We were told to choose one. It was taken to the back for slaughter. In the mean time our waiter began preparing the grill. An assortment of banchan was placed before us along with hand leafed lettuce and sauces. The duck was brought to the table thinly sliced. Korean grilled duck. Brilliant. Simply seasoned with salt and pepper, it was like eating duck cracklings. The fatty charred duck wrapped in lettuce, with a little bap, scallions, raw garlic slivers and a pungent dipping sauce (based on dwenjang) the contrasting flavors and textures exploded in my mouth.

But there was more. While we were eating the grilled duck, the chef had been making a rich, creamy stock with the bones for the second course. A boiling hot pot (the Koreans really like a serious boil to their soups) replaced our the grill. A plate of pungent, bitter herbs and fresh noodles were brought to the table as well. The stock had an intensly nutty, but not overpowering flavor. I was told that it had what they call "wild sesame" seeds in it. We were told to place some herbs in the pot, let them cook down and then add the noodles. The herbs were a perfect contrast with the dense stock. And the soft, bland noodles toned down the "bite" of the herbs.

There aren't many Korean duck dishes. The entire experience for me epitomizes what I like about Korean food so much. Sitting at a table over a fire, cooking and eating together, taking time, you don't have to worry about your food getting cold, you can season your meat as much or little as you want, there's a variety of textures and flavors...

Has anyone else tried this? Any Korean duck or game recipes?

[Pan]

The dish you're describing sounds like one I had at the Manhattan branch of Woo Chon as part of a get-together of various eGullet members from the area, except that the version you had was undoubtedly better. (I liked the dish at Woo Chon, but others objected to the duck being kind of dry. I loved that soup, though!)

[chefzadi]

The dish you're describing sounds like one I had at the Manhattan branch of Woo Chon as part of a get-together of various eGullet members from the area, except that the version you had was undoubtedly better. (I liked the dish at Woo Chon, but others objected to the duck being kind of dry. I loved that soup, though!)

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So there is a place in the States serving it. I can pass on the info. Too bad the duck was dry. They must have used really poor quality duck. It's really hard to get a dry finished product with this method of cooking a thinly sliced, fatty piece of meat.

My wife says Seoul is like New York City on speed. It gets my vote for being the most fun food city. Non-stop, 24 hours a day. I could get kalbi tang at 3:00 am after work. As a French chef I especially find the lack of protocal and "high" airs especially appealing. They really know how to enjoy food over there without any pretenses.

[Pan]

They didn't slice it thin. It was a whole duck. But the soup sounds similar.

[jschyun]

In Los Angeles there was a branch of the Il San Duck restaurant, but it closed, alas.

But I could swear I've seen duck elsewhere. I will post when I remember where it was. Perhaps someone with a better memory can help. It's hard because places keep opening and closing all the time.

[ellencho]

Outside of Seoul I visited a similar restaurant except in this one you picked a chicken or two for your meal and they cooked it up for you. It was also an outdoors restaurant and we sat out on little mesh fenced in areas up on platforms. There was a lot of greenery and I think they grew a lot of their ingredients.

We were younger when we first went to this restaurant and my dad used to threaten that he'd order the black chicken. At the time we were picky little kids and we were squicked out by the notion of eating a black fleshed chicken but now I realize that the flesh of a black chicken is not black. While we were eating the meat of the bird, they took the rest of the carcass and prepared us a really delicious jukk which was incredible. Very rich and velvety tasting.

I also remember eating pork bulgogi at an outdoor restaurant that specialized in it but I'm pretty sure we didn't get to pick out our own pig

Edited January 31, 2005 by ellencho (log)

[chefzadi]

I noticed quite a few (not alot, but enough to make it noteworthy) restaurants

on the fringes and outside of Seoul that specialize in live/kill to order poultry or game. I regret not trying pheasant and quail.

[chefzadi]

I asked my MIL about other Korean duck preparations. Basically grilled or a spicy braise. Similiar to spicy braised chicken. So I guess that's about it for this exciting thread. :-)

[melonpan]

In Los Angeles there was a branch of the Il San Duck restaurant, but it closed, alas.

id never heard of any korean duck dishes (which just goes to show how sheltered and how small my world is) until before i moved to los angeles, but yes, i went to the duck restaurant before it closed down last year.

to be honest up until then, id only had duck two or three other times in my life and it was always chinese bbq. never had any western interpretations.

this duck was pretty awesome and unlike anything id ever had. it had yakbap in it basically. the waitress at the restaurant said that there were 13 items that went into the yakbap stuffing

we figured out 12 but didnt know what the 13th was. probably a secret:

sweet (aka glutinous) rice

some wild rice for good measure

red beans

sunflower seeds

pumpkin seeds

pinenuts

peanuts

whole chestnuts

some raisins

dates

hwanggi (a root aka <a href="http://www.innvista.com/health/herbs/astralag.htm">astralagus</a>)

almonds

pretty yummy stuff.

no recipe here but i think you wouldnt do too badly experimenting with roasting ducks or chickens with yakbap.

the duck at ilsan was presented whole (and cost a bit too) and when you cracked it open, you saw that beautifully festive yakbap stuffing

<center><img src="http://www.rawbw.com/~coconut/eg/05/050203ilsan.jpg"></center>

[melonpan]

rest in peace ilsan duck house. i hope you pop up again soon.

when i go back to korea i will try to look up a branch. good schtuff.