How the new ‘nasi kandar’ redefines Penang

[Pan]

There’s now a nasi kandar shop every 20 metres on every major street in Georgetown, they say. But most of them can only claim to serve nasi kandar.

"They get away with serving rice and a variety of curries and the nasi kandar tag is theirs," says Kadir Ibrahim of Bayan Baru. But most people in Penang know what’s happening and that visitors from out of the State are often taken in.

Yussof [Penang Malay Association president Datuk Mohd Yussof Latif] said the nasi kandar lauk [lauk=everything but the rice] traditionally consisted of fish curry, beef, liver, eggs, cuttlefish and coconut sambal. "It was only very much later that chicken came to be included. Other dishes like kurma were never part of authentic nasi kandar."

Read the rest of this New Straits Times "HARDCOPY" article here.

Are you a fan of nasi kandar? Do you like the "new nasi kandar"? Do you have any favorite recipes? I have to say I haven't spent much time in Penang and don't know if I had nasi kandar when I did visit, but it sounds delicious!

[Pan]

I'm bumping this because I'm still interested in responses.

By the way, do we have any Penang-area members or members who, though not living in Penang now, came from the area?

[Shiewie]

Here are some pics from a Nasi Kandar place I went to recently.

Nasi Kandar originates from Penang (at least the name Nasi Kandar did...but I guess it's South Indian in origin) where in days gone by, Indian Muslim vendors would ply the streets balancing two large containers bearing rice and different curries on the ends of a kandar, or pole... and hence its name.

Since then Nasi Kandar has gone upmarket. This place where I went to is air-conditioned with plasma TVs (usually tuned to English premier league matches)and an al-fresco section with mist fans for those who prefer to dine outside.

Make your selection! This is only half of what's available - there was another counter with trays whole fish heads, crabs and other seafood (not in the picture).

Roti tisu - a tower of crispy paper-thin roti spinkled with sugar and condensed milk.

Edited March 3, 2005 by Shiewie (log)

[Pan]

That place looks awesome! I take it, they serve the new-style Nasi Kandar? Where is the place?

The Roti Tisu looks like an Utthapam, which is South Indian (Madras-style, in my experience, though I wouldn't be surprised if it is traditional over a wider area).

Also, is that tomato puree on the right of your banana leaf, and what's in the dark sauce?

[Laksa]

Excuse my ignorance but... I've never really understood the difference between nasi kandar, nasi padang, nasi lemak with a lot of different lauk choices, and your regular Muslim "economy fast-food" with rice and lauk.

When I walk through the average KL shopping mall foodcourt (sadly, my experience with nasi kandar is limited to such a setting), I wouldn't be able to tell you if I've ordered nasi kandar or just rice with curries.

So tell me how it works... if the guy behind the counter is Indian, I'm eating nasi kandar?

[Tepee]

Nasi kandar - Shiewie's already explained it. Sold by Mamaks.

Nasi dagang - Kelantan/perhaps Trengganu origins.

- is a lemak kind of rice

- usually served with ikan tongkol curry. Yum!

Eh, Shiewie, do you think our friend Laksa needs a guide around KL/PJ?

[Laksa]

Eh, Shiewie, do you think our friend Laksa needs a guide around KL/PJ?

←

A guide would've been a tremendous help when I was there last month. Is it just me or is the food in Jalan Alor not as good as it used to be? The most memorable thing I had was the Thai fragrant coconut water (first time I tried that), and Fat Boy steamboat. The durian there is still good, but I imagine locals would know of better bargains away from downtown, right?

I remember having some v good Penang Char Kway Teow years ago, but this time, it was just so-so.

[JC]

That place looks awesome! I take it, they serve the new-style Nasi Kandar? Where is the place?

That place looks like Kayu Nasi Kandar in SS2, PJ.

[Shiewie]

That place looks awesome! I take it, they serve the new-style Nasi Kandar? Where is the place?

That place looks like Kayu Nasi Kandar in SS2, PJ.

←

Wow JC you must be a regular there! It is Kayu Nasi Kandar in SS2 in PJ. I think it's quite pricey actually so don't really go there often ... if you pile your plate with various stuff, it can end up around RM20 per person (around USD5) which is quite a lot by Malaysian standards. Malaysians love nasi kandar and Kayu now has six outlets here and is opening its first overseas outlet in Box Hill in Melbourne this April.

Also, is that tomato puree on the right of your banana leaf, and what's in the dark sauce?

Pan - I have to confess that the picture I snapped wasn't mine - the servers had just finished the order and I quickly snapped the picture when it was still on the counter. The dark sauce is the gravy from a beef stew (call it a stew and not curry as it wasn't spicy) ... not sure what the proper name is.

[Shiewie]

Eh, Shiewie, do you think our friend Laksa needs a guide around KL/PJ?

←

A guide would've been a tremendous help when I was there last month. Is it just me or is the food in Jalan Alor not as good as it used to be? The most memorable thing I had was the Thai fragrant coconut water (first time I tried that), and Fat Boy steamboat. The durian there is still good, but I imagine locals would know of better bargains away from downtown, right?

I remember having some v good Penang Char Kway Teow years ago, but this time, it was just so-so.

←

Haiya Laksa - you could've PM'ed Tepee, MauKitten or me when you were in town and we would've been happy to be your guide .

[Laksa]

Haiya Laksa - you could've PM'ed Tepee, MauKitten or me when you were in town and we would've been happy to be your guide  .

←

There's always next time, right?

[Tepee]

You bet!

'course, the problem is finding a baby-sitter for my 3 angels..........

[JustKay]

Nasi kandar - Shiewie's already explained it. Sold by Mamaks.

Nasi dagang - Kelantan/perhaps Trengganu origins.

                  - is a lemak kind of rice

                  - usually served with ikan tongkol curry. Yum! 

Eh, Shiewie, do you think our friend Laksa needs a guide around KL/PJ?

If I could elaborate it just a tad more.

Mamak = Indian-Muslim.

Although Nasi Kandar and Nasi Campur (as the rice and lauk sold by the Malays are collectively called) look the same, they sure don't taste the same.

For one, the culinary style/method of cooking is somewhat different.

And then, the blend of spices involved are a little different too.

Nasi Kandar's curry for instance, uses very little coconut milk, if at all. And they do not tumis the curry/sambal paste - if at all, for unlike Malay cooking which uses wet paste, Mamaks usually just add dry curry powder right into the hot oil and then add a bit of water - for very long, unlike the Malay curries and sambals, which requires simmering the paste over very low heat up to one hour ... therefore you can actually detect the slightly different taste and feel to the curries and sambal. The Malay curries are heavy with coconut milk. Mamaks also love to add fenugreek to their dishes especially in their curries and nasi lemak.

The soups Mamaks make are heavily spiced too. They also like to use tumeric liberally.

I made the observations when we we had to 'import' a Mamak cook for our month-long Nasi Kandar Promotion, at the cafeteria at my old work place, of which I was in charge.

One thing I distinctly remember was that when cooking the signature Mamak's fried cabbage .... the chef plonked the chopped cabbage into the heated but empty wok then started tossing it vigorously over high heat, and then added sliced big onions, and sprinkled salt and a very liberal amount of tumeric powder. And that's just one example in the differences in method.

Nasi Dagang is a Terengganu/Kelantan specialty. And although it is cooked with coconut milk, like nasi lemak, it uses a special type of glutinous rice - the grains are specked with brown spots. And they are steamed, although nasi lemak can also be cooked using the steaming method.

And although they are Malays, the curries they make are different. The names differ too. They call their famous 'fish curry' as Gulai Ikan Tongkol. Where as gulai in the southern states refers to the red hot gravy which is akin to watered down sambal tumis, like Assam Pedas.

And oh, if the person behind the counter is Indian you're probably eating Indian food and not Nasi Kandar ie Mamak food. Even though they serve the sorta same kinda dishes. Mamak stalls and outlets usually have the Arabic version of Bismillah framed and hung on the walls so that Muslims know that they are Indian-Muslims and not (Hindu) Indians.

But then again, the famous Lotus group of restaurants are Indian but specializes in mamak food. For picky Muslims like me (no, I'm not that religious but I do watch what I eat carefully) I do not eat at the Lotus restaurants but many other Muslims do, but perhaps more because of ignorance - unaware that it is not a Muslim restaurant, thinking since it's mamak fare they must be Indian-Muslims. Once upon a time, I ate there too. But after a couple of visits, I noticed the Bismillah thingy was missing. After a little 'research' I found out that they're Hindu Indians.

So, I guess if it's confusing for us, it surely must seem daunting for non-locals who are trying to really figure out what I'm babbling about. LOL !

Edited March 12, 2005 by kew (log)

[Laksa]

Thanks kew! That's most informative. Now I know I've never had nasi dagang. I may have had nasi kandar. The nasi kandar curries sounds a lot like the curries served at Indian restaurants here - little use of coconut milk, if at all.

I suppose the "Bismillah" sign is an indication that the food has been certified halal? Will non-muslims who observe all the halal requirements be able to have their restaurants or food certified halal?

[JustKay]

Thanks kew!  That's most informative.  Now I know I've never had nasi dagang.  I may have had nasi kandar.  The nasi kandar curries sounds a lot like the curries served at Indian restaurants here - little use of coconut milk, if at all.

You're most welcome.

I know 'authentic' North Indian restaurants uses yoghurt and/or milk. I had a friend who had a Tandoori restaurant back in Penang. No coconut milk at all.

I'm not sure if Indian restaurants elsewhere uses coconut milk like the M'sian ones? I know the ones back in Canada didn't.

I suppose the "Bismillah" sign is an indication that the food has been certified halal?  Will non-muslims who observe all the halal requirements be able to have their restaurants or food certified halal?

←

The 'Bismillah' sign or any other framed Quranic verses indicates that the people who owns the restaurants are Muslims. They therefore do not bother getting the Halal certification.

It is the non-Muslims who need to get the halal certification, to convince the Muslims that they indeed keep Halal.

But anybody can get Halal certified. All they have to do is apply to JAKIM, a branch of the PM's office entrusted with the task of overseeing this issue. They do random spot checks at the places (not only restaurants but food manufacturing plants as well as other things like cosmetics, etc).

Most countries have it's own Halal certification body. And more and more maufacturers are going this route.

[Pan]

Kew, a lot of southern Indian dishes use coconut. If you've never had a Tamil meal on a banana leaf, you've missed out!

[JustKay]

Kew, a lot of southern Indian dishes use coconut. If you've never had a Tamil meal on a banana leaf, you've missed out!

I have had banana leaf rice way back in Penang because there was this totally vegetarian banana leaf restaurant. I don't recall the dishes as being coconut milk laden, but of course, I could be wrong. It's just that the Indian restaurants in Canada that I frequented all used milk too.

The closest to a South Indian restaurant that I've been to in KL is Passage Thru India I didn't quite like the dishes we ordered.

My favorite restaurant is The Bombay Palace. Sorry can't find the website for the KL branch. In fact we just went there last weekend.

[Pan]

Have you tried Madrasi utthapams or masala dosas? When I get them in New York, one of the sambhars is always made with shredded coconut. Lots of Malayali food also uses shredded coconut or coconut milk.

[JC]

Hey, us eGullets from KL should catch up!

[JustKay]

Hey, us eGullets from KL should catch up!

←

I'm trying to get Tepee and Shiewie to go for the all-you-can-eat dim sum promo at The Istana.

Where were you when we had out first gathering? It was at my place.

[JC]

Eh, I didn't know about the first gathering... oh well there's always a next time.

All you can eat dim sum sounds good, but I see that the promo ends this month. And this month is not good for me, work up till my eyeballs!

Anyway, I heard there was a good high-end Vietnamese restaurant behind Jalan Alor. Anyone been there?

[JustKay]

Eh, I didn't know about the first gathering... oh well there's always a next time.

All you can eat dim sum sounds good, but I see that the promo ends this month. And this month is not good for me, work up till my eyeballs!

Anyway, I heard there was a good high-end Vietnamese restaurant behind Jalan Alor.

Tepee, Shiewie and Maukitten would have no problem with any restaurant but I'm afraid I have to be more selective as I am a Muslim.

I don't mind waiting till next month if it means more can join in.