The Capital Grille

[SobaAddict70]

The restaurant's signature fried calamari, which had a profusion of hot peppers and scallions, was sharper, livelier and more impressive.

But our porterhouse was overcooked, not particularly thick, not especially juicy and lacking the kind of crisp, charred exterior that would have given the flesh more variation from edge to center.

For sides, we tried the creamed spinach and the mashed potatoes — both soupy.

Sounds to me like Peter Luger's and Wolfgang's don't have much to fear...., at least not yet.

Capital Grille (Frank Bruni)

Soba

[KatieLoeb]

Even chain restaurants with "corporate" menus that are identical at each property are subject to being only as good as the Executive Chef at that particular outpost. The Capital Grille in Philly is the highest grossing in the chain I was just recently told, and certainly any dinner I've had there has been superb. Folks I've sent there have all enjoyed it as well. I've heard the same of the CG in Washington. If the chef at the new Manhattan CG is sending out soupy side dishes he isn't cutting it. He will undoubtedly be quickly replaced. Unlike small non-chain restaurants, Chefs are rather like shark's teeth in the big corporate chains. If one is lost, another pops up to replace them.

[flinflon28]

I work in he Chrysler Building (where this restaurant is located) and stopped in for lunch a few weeks ago. We had just ordered when the smoke alarms went off. The staff was very gracious as the restaurant cleared out and they recently sent me $50 gift certificate for our troubles. It's like a mini Per Se experience!! Haven't gone back yet but will report when I do.

[oakapple]

Sounds to me like Peter Luger's and Wolfgang's don't have much to fear...., at least not yet.

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Indeed they do not. A vendor suggested dinner last night, and I said my preference was a steakhouse. I grimaced when he suggested the Capital Grille, as I presumed Manhattan has much better to offer. However, he was buying, so I kept my thoughts to myself and trudged uptown.

A wet-aged Delmonico (bone-in rib-eye) was done to the medium rare that I'd asked for, but as Frank Bruni put it, "lacking the kind of crisp, charred exterior that would have given the flesh more variation from edge to center." A smoked salmon appetizer and creamed spinach side dish were competently executed, but unmemorable.

I should add that all three of my companions ordered fillets, which appeared to have the charred exterior that my rib-eye lacked.

Capital Grille has a slightly updated version of the classic steakhouse décor (mahogony surfaces, oil paintings). Service was slightly superior to the average steakhouse, including a genial waiter who explained the menu in considerable detail. The restaurant put us in a booth, and for four businessmen it was a bit cramped.

Having said all that, Capital Grille illustrates the maxim that it's awfully tough for a steakhouse to fail in Manhattan. Despite executing the steakhouse formula with no particular distinction, the place was packed.

Edited September 13, 2005 by oakapple (log)

[BrentKulman]

Having said all that, Capital Grille illustrates the maxim that it's awfully tough for a steakhouse to fail in Manhattan. Despite executing the steakhouse formula with no particular distinction, the place was packed.

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While I am surprised about that comment, I suspect that it is true in many parts of the country. It certainly is true here in Charlotte. In a city of around 600,000, we have at least half a dozen major upscale steakhouse chain style restaurants and all appear to be thriving. Fortunately, we have some very good chef-driven restaurants and some interesting ethnics, too.

[jturn00]

I work in midtown near grand central terminal and we do a lot of dinners. Since many times my boss is taking a train we want to be with in 5 minutes walking distance of Grand Central Terminal. We've eaten at the two steak houses near us Michael Jordans and Capital Grille we chose Capital Grille more often as the service and food I feel is better. It has a good business environment.

Peter Luger's is too far and doesn't accept credit cards. We went to smith and wolenski once. Too noisy and cramped. I'll have to look up wolfgang's to see if it is near us.

I had the poterhouse and thought it was good. I like their onion soup but it is a lot to have with a steak. I find that their strip steak is very good. (I am going to try some of their fish dishes next time.)

[Bux]

I work in midtown near grand central terminal and we do a lot of dinners.  Since many times my boss is taking a train we want to be with in 5 minutes walking distance of Grand Central Terminal.  We've eaten at the two steak houses near us Michael Jordans and Capital Grille we chose Capital Grille more often as the service and food I feel is better.  It has a good business environment. 

Peter Luger's is too far and doesn't accept credit cards.  We went to smith and wolenski once.  Too noisy and cramped.  I'll have to look up wolfgang's to see if it is near us.

I had the poterhouse and thought it was good.  I like their onion soup but it is a lot to have with a steak.  I find that their strip steak is very good.  (I am going to try some of their fish dishes next time.)

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33rd and Park should put it within ten minutes walk, not five, as I walk. Michelin distinguishes two and three star restaurants as worth a detour and worth the journey. I'd walk an extra five minutes just for a slight edge between unstarred restaurants.

[jturn00]

Thanks for the info. We'll have to head to Wolfgang's some time soon.

[oakapple]

Today, Bob Lape awards two stars to Capital Grille in Crain's New York Business. I don't share his enthusiasm, but perhaps he sampled different menu items than I did:

The seven steak selections are impeccably grilled, and satisfying. Some are accessorized. I enjoy a lush sirloin crusted with finely ground Kona coffee and slathered with caramelized-shallot butter, and the porcini-rubbed Delmonico anointed with balsamic reduction. The kitchen often adds the right savory touch to the main event. Steak au poivre gets Courvoisier cream, and a Roquefort butter sauce punches up the hefty veal chop.