eGullet dinner at Enoteca Vin: 10/3/04

[ashleyc]

Greetings, eGullet members...

Though I have been reading all of your entertaining and informative posts for a long time now, this is my first official post. I hope that it finds you happy, healthy and ready for an exciting eGullet event. I am sure many of you have either been a part of or at least read discussion of a possible eGullet dinner at Enoteca Vin in Raleigh, North Carolina. The word on the street is true and I have all of the details.

By the way, my name is Ashley Christensen and I'm the chef and general manager of the restaurant. I have to say that we are totally psyched about this event. We know that you guys appreciate great food and wine, we appreciate your presence in our community, and we can't wait to cook dinner for you.

So, here's the scoop. The dinner is offered to eGullet members and their guests only. It will be a multi-course dinner on Sunday, October 3 at 7pm. We have chosen to close for the event so that we may accomodate as many of you as possible. Seating is limited so we are pre-selling the evening as a ticketed event. The cost of the event is $75 plus tax and gratuity (which will be collected in full by credit card at the time you make your reservation). To make reservations, please contact our reservationist at 919.834.3070 between 1pm and 5pm, Tuesday-Saturday. Ask for Julie. You may also reach us at reservations@enotecavin.com.

Here's the menu, with wine selections by our very own Chrish Peel, co-owner of Vin and owner of the Carolina Wine Company. As I am sure you will notice, some of these wines sell on restaurant lists for $100-$250. In order to keep the price of the dinner down, Chrish has personally donated some of these wines. He's a big fan of eGullet and is as excited about the dinner as I am.

Standing Course at Greeting…

Beausoleil oysters with fresh wasabi and ginger mignonette

1998 Chablis “Tres Vielles Vignes” – Defaix - Raveneau

Seated…

Seared day boat scallop with sweet corn and truffle emulsion, fines herbes

2001 Puligny Montrachet – B. Ente

Raviolo with fresh Porcini mushrooms

2003 Marsannay Rose – B. Clair

Intermezzo Course, revealed at event

Black tea BBQ Niman Ranch pork shoulder tacos with marinated cabbage

1993 Volnay “Champans” – Monceau - Boch

Red wine-braised Waygu short ribs with Swiss chard and melted shallot

1999 Nuits “Les St. Georges” “Vaucrains” - Chicotot

L’Ami du Chambertin

1993 Charmes-Chambertin – Perrot -Minot

Please let us know if you have any dietary restictions when you make your reservation and we will be more than happy to accommodate.

Hope we see you there,

Ashley Christensen

[Varmint]

Before I add my comments about the menu, let me provide a few more details about the logistics. When you make reservations, you will be buying tickets to the event, and you will be charged for the meal, tax, and tip. It's my understanding that the total per person cost will be approximately $97.20. Remember, the food alone is worth that, and with the Burgundies provided by Chrish and Carolina Wine Company, this is a killer deal.

Also, although Ashley and her crew may be able to make some reasonable accomodations to individuals with dietary restrictions, Vin cannot make any price adjustments for individuals who will not be drinking. Because the wines are provided at well below cost (and, in some instances, at no cost), a fixed price applicable to all is necessary.

Finally, Ashley has indicated that she'd check in on this thread from time to time to respond to questions y'all might have about the dinner, the menu, and the restaurant.

Thanks, y'all!

[Varmint]

I'll ask the first question: What can you tell us about Beausoleil oysters, and where do you get them?

[wcmckinney]

This is a sharp looking dinner, thanks Chef Ashley, Sommelier Chrish and Gourmand Varmint for doing the leg work on this event! I am fully ready to take advantage of the good eats.

Chef Ashley, would you mind writing a bit about how you went with these food pairings. Tacos and Raviolo and Short Ribs all sound luscious, did you pick the food around the wine? Wine around the food? Any (southern) regional inklings behind the menu?

do we just need to swing by Vin anytime before the Monday to purchase the ticket, right?

[Varmint]

I wanted to re-post this important piece of news, for those who hadn't seen it: FYI, the October edition of Food and Wine has an article about Vin, Ashley Christensen, and Chrish Peel. Way to go!!!

Though she's only 28, Christensen has the vision and confidence of a far more seasoned chef. "I like the words 'pristine,' 'artisan,' 'quality,'" she says. "Not 'luxury': That's easy to obtain. You can buy it. Quality you have to seek out."

[ashleyc]

I'll ask the first question: What can you tell us about Beausoleil oysters, and where do you get them?

←

Beausoleil oysters are from New Brunswick, Canada. They are very salty with a sweet finish and a nice deep cup. They are a petite in size with an ultra clean, rich brine. Hands down, one of my favorite oysters.

Edited September 14, 2004 by ashleyc (log)

[ashleyc]

This is a sharp looking dinner, thanks Chef Ashley, Sommelier Chrish and Gourmand Varmint for doing the leg work on this event!  I am fully ready to take advantage of the good eats.

Chef Ashley, would you mind writing a bit about how you went with these food pairings.  Tacos and Raviolo and Short Ribs all sound luscious, did you pick the food around the wine?  Wine around the food?  Any (southern) regional inklings behind the menu?

do we just need to swing by Vin anytime before the Monday to purchase the ticket, right?

←

The food section of the menu was written first, though I had an idea of a couple of the selections that Chrish wanted to share. The inspiration for most of the dishes came from what the seasonal offerings are in early october. As far as the style of food, I am a big fan of braised meats. I think it is such a great technique for both unlocking and introducing complementary flavors. As a chef, I think braised meats give you such an opportunity to respectfully influence a dish.

Hand-made pasta has always been a big passion of mine as well. It was a hobby of my father's when I was a child and I have appreciated it my whole life. It is a beautiful thing to create something with your hands. A friend of mine taught me to make the raviolo a while back and it is one of my favorites.

I usually just write a menu with a flow that I would enjoy based on the time of year and Chrish always does a great job of pairing wines to my style of food.

[Varmint]

Today's Raleigh News & Observer has a story about the publicity Vin is receiving.

[DonRocks]

Ashley!

I'd like to ask you about the deconstructed nicoise salad that you made the last time I was in. It blew me away - I have fantasies in another lifetime of making a pan bagnat with really good fresh tuna, olives with pits, first cold pressed olive oil from the south of France, artisanal bread, and yet with your brilliant work on this salad, there is no need for me to do so. How did you think of such a thing? Was it that easy? What made you leave out the anchovies?

See you on October 3rd!

[Varmint]

Looks like our esteemed DC Forum Host will be making the trek from our nation's capital! Get a DC caravan organized -- it'll be worth it!!

[Anonymous-2936]

I am overwhelmed with excitement. I am actually thinking about doing a stage that night just to see Ashley and her staff in action.

Only if, of course, that would adhere to protocol. :)

How long, from an operational standpoint, is the cocktailing allowed? I am just negotiating my schedule for return to Greensboro.

-Sincerely,

Zac Durham

Chef de Cuisine, Grappa Grille, Greensboro, NC

zchef2k (yahoo and eGullet)

[Varmint]

Ashley, could you discuss with us your general approach to sourcing? You've already mentioned that you're getting the oysters from Canada, and Chrish has told me that beef is also shipped in from out of state. How do learn of the artisinal producers upon which Vin prides itself?

[Marlene]

The menu and wine pairings sound wonderful! And of course, being a Canadian, I'm thrilled you're using Oysters from Canada. I'm still doing my darnedest to figure out how to get down there for this event.

In the meantime, could you tell me a bit more about the techique you use for the Waygu short ribs? Short Ribs have been long on my list of things to try, and I can't say I'm an expert braiser, but I'm willing to give it a try!

Thank you so much for taking the time and attention you are putting into this event for the benefit of our members, Chef. We really do appreciate it!

[Fat Guy]

This sounds like a fantastic meal. I'd drive down from New York for it if I though the Plymouth would survive the trip!

I was wondering about those Wagyu short ribs too. Is there an advantage to using a Wagyu source for a braising cut like short ribs? I understand that with something like a filet or strip the marbling and tenderness of Wagyu are advantageous, but for a tough, slow-cooked, collagen-rich cut like short ribs is there a noticeable difference?

Save me some!

[Marlene]

See more education for me. What is a Wagyu anyway? I'm from Canada remember.

[Gifted Gourmet]

See more education for me.  What is a Wagyu anyway?  I'm from Canada remember.

←

Canadian Wagyu

an even better resource for your education

The word Wagyu refers to all Japanese beef cattle ('Wa' means Japanese and 'gyu' means cattle).  This is the breed that produces Kobe beef, named for the city where the cattle were first bred 170 years ago.  The original import of these cattle to the U.S. in 1976 consisted of two Tottori Black Wagyu and two Kumamoto Red Wagyu bulls

[KatieLoeb]

There had better be full reports with pictures and everything from this event. Some of us are forced to live vicariously! The menu and wine pairings are absolutely sublime. I so wish I could make it down there for this! Bravo to everyone that's had a hand in planning this.

[Gifted Gourmet]

I know we all are salivating in advance over the menu!

[Varmint]

I assure you there will be lots of coverage of this dinner, from sourcing to cooking to eating.

[Varmint]

I want to remind everyone to book their tickets ASAP by calling the restaurant at 919.834.3070 between 1pm and 5pm, Tuesday-Saturday, asking for Julie.

We will likely open up this dinner to regular customers of Vin some time next week, so that they may be introduced to eGullet, so be sure to grab those seats now!

[Varmint]

As you might expect, Vin is getting slammed with customers after the Food & Wine article came out. Chef Christensen has assured me that she'll get to the questions, but we need to give her a few days to get through the weekend craziness. Thanks, y'all!

[ashleyc]

I am overwhelmed with excitement. I am actually thinking about doing a stage that night just to see Ashley and her staff in action.

Only if, of course, that would adhere to protocol. :)

How long, from an operational standpoint, is the cocktailing allowed? I am just negotiating my schedule for return to Greensboro.

-Sincerely,

Zac Durham

Chef de Cuisine, Grappa Grille, Greensboro, NC

zchef2k (yahoo and eGullet)

←

Hey!

Doors are at 7pm and then we'll try to get everyone seated at 7:30. Typical run time for an event this size is three hours, but usually the better time everyone has, the slower it moves...

-Julie

Editor's Note: This post was made on behalf of Chef C. by Julie, who is your friendly reservationist. The Chef is a bit swamped right now, so give Julie a call!

[weka]

Ok, all I can say is YUM! And we will be there, Richard and I that is. Just rearranging schedules now and will be calling in our booking tomorrow. This is such a coincidence as we were planning on going to Enoteca Vin for my birthday and now we will just have to celebrate it a bit earlier in even better style with more cool people! See you all there.

- Weka

[Varmint]

We have 22 folks signed up as of earlier today. Please book your reservations now, before we open this up to Vin's regular customers!

Thanks!

[ashleyc]

Ashley!

I'd like to ask you about the deconstructed nicoise salad that you made the last time I was in.  It blew me away - I have fantasies in another lifetime of making a pan bagnat with really good fresh tuna, olives with pits, first cold pressed olive oil from the south of France, artisanal bread, and yet with your brilliant work on this salad, there is no need for me to do so.  How did you think of such a thing?  Was it that easy?  What made you leave out the anchovies?

See you on October 3rd!

←

Greetings, Rocks!

Sorry for the delay in response. Things have been quite busy here at the shop, but going very well. The tuna was one of my favorite dishes as well. I think it was a great representation of my style. The dish is inspired by the classic nicoise. My intention was to take very high quality ingredients and calm the dish down slightly so that their quality would shine. The oil cured unpasteurized black olives minced and introduced into a simple, fresh aioli. The haricot vert and purple potato dressed only in verjus, minced shallot, sea salt and cracked white pepper. The egg mimosa, providing a canvassing texture to the other elements of the dish.

I agree that it is classic to use the anchovy and that it taste great. However, I chose not to. With this presentation consisting of fresh, raw tuna, i think the pungent flavor of the anchovies would be masking to some of the beatiful qualities of the tuna. If the tuna were seared, maybe not.

For me, I probably would have already sucked down a plate of the anchovies with my first glass of champagne. But that's just me.

Cheers, Rocks, and we can't wait to cook for you again. See you soon.

Ashley