WTN: 3 Great Cal Cabs and a Summus

[geo t.]

We don't do a lot of Cabernet at our house, but when we do, we like to do it right. It was our first chance to get together with Alan Kerr aka Canadian Zinfan since his mum, Sylvia had arrived from jolly old England, so we used the occasion to open something good. There may have been a birthday involved as well, but since we stopped counting those some time ago, we would have popped the corks on these beauties anyway.

1986 Silverado Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Stag’s Leap District Limited Reserve, 13% alc.: There’s still not much rust to the deep dark garnet color here, but there’s plenty of dust on the nose, along with rich cabernet cassis and black currant. Flavors echo so nicely, with what Alan describes as “autumn leaves, forest and mineral, but not under ripe” fruit, adding impressions of “that honey comb cereal toastiness and a touch of dried mint leaves.” The wine is mature, with mostly resolved tannins and a smooth, harmonious texture, but without any tertiary characteristics. Very nice indeed.

1993 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, 14.1% alc.: Alan found this dark garnet Cal claret to be “very oak focused,” while Kim immediately commented that it’s “a little poopy,” and there is a certain barnyard quality in the aromatics, but it blows off to reveal a creamy note over the cassis, black currant and blackberry bouquet. Kerr kept up about the oak, adding that it’s “a touch overdone, with a creamy coat of tannin; the fruit might show through a little more in three or four years.” However, I find the oak to be well integrated, lending a cedary element, and the cream comes out more with a bite of the delicious lamb chops hot off the Weber grill. Drinking very well right now, but as CZ suggests, it’ll be even better in three or four years. I’m not a big fan of Beringer, but I really enjoy this wine, as I did at last year’s MoCool.

1990 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 13.5% alc.: Kim liked this dark garnet, explaining that “it’s more French in style than the others,” and she has a point; I’ve always enjoyed Mondavi cabs for just that reason. This one shows lovely flavors and aromas of sea air, black currant, cedar and herbs, with fully resolved tannins, a smooth mouthfeel and what Kerr describes as “that little meaty, fleshy quality to it,” adding “I like the nose on this more than the other two.” This one is right there, right now, a real wine with no tricks and no gimmicks, and it was the unanimous favorite of these three delicious wines.

1990 Castello Banfi Summus, 13% alc.: I opened this old friend because it seemed like the right thing to do, but it’s certainly in no danger of falling into decline any time soon. Alan picked up on one element of the wine immediately, exclaiming “Wow, I could have sworn that it was a syrah,” and in fact, there is some syrah blended in with the sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. It’s progressing nicely, exhibiting earth, wood (but not oak), leather and fruit, in that order. Alan found it reminiscent of a Côtes du Rhône, whilst I got a big Bordeaux – like plumminess underneath the considerable soft secondary action. CZ went on a roll with descriptors such as “so smoky and pure vanillin, smoked meat, coal dust, blue John (flint), a salty gaminess, black pepper, black currant and blackberry.” Another “real” wine, and as good as any of the others tasted on this occasion, but of course, with its own unique characteristics that sets it apart, this is drinking wonderfully well, and should continue to do so for some years yet.

Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.