Dining Alone in Paris

[KJS]

I'll be spending two weeks in Paris (my first time) and plan to spend about half of my budget on fine dining.

I've been reading restaurant recommendations and appreciate the helpful advice on this board.

I'm going alone though, so how can I make sure I don't spend the whole two weeks sitting at the bar?

I do speak French fairly well, and I assume that will help.

I really don't want to have to choose my restaurant based on how they treat the single diner, but perhaps someone could recommend some that are cordial to us and others where I should pick someone up on the street to dine with rather than try to get a reservation pour une personne.

Any tips?

(I'm a woman in my mid-forties, if that makes a difference.)

[ecelizzy]

Hi!

We'd love to reccomend Le Cottage de Marcadet in the 18th. The owner and chef(Jean Marie Robin) is extremely interested in the comfort of his guests and the food is wonderful (AND reasonable!).

151 bis,rue Marcadet

Metro: Lamarck-Caulincourt

Also, a wonderful restaurant, serving wonderful wine and food from the Beaujolais region, is Au Vin des Rues in the 14th. Once again, the patron is extremely concerned about the experience of his guests and goes out of his way to make them feel welcome.

21 Rue boulard

Metro: Raspail (I believe... ???)

Lastly, while amazing food isn't a specialty, Chartier is a wonderful opportunity to be seated with five or more other assorted guests--often French students. Your tab is kept track off on the table cloth and prices are very reasonable! I've never failed to meet an intersting person or two there! (In fact as an exchange student in paris I met a love of my life!)

7 Rue de Faubourg-Monmartre

Metro: Rue Monmartre

[ecelizzy]

HI!

ecelizzy again! The metro closest to Au Vin des Rues is Denfert-Rochereau NOT Raspail.

sorry!

[pcloguda]

I find dining alone in Paris more comfortable than dining alone in NYC!

The bistros will be very accomodating and great for people watching.

The staff at Guy Savoy is marvellously solicitous.Taillevent's staff  is

fluent in english although this does not seem to be an issue for you.....

Violin d' Ingres seemed to be mostly couples on my last visit there as

did Faucher's and Faugeron...but that doesn't mean that you won't

be comfortable. Let us now where you dine & if you would recommend

it.

[Bux]

It's been years since I've dined alone and that was on a student budget and therefore don't have first had advice on fine dining alone. In bistrots and brasseries, it's very common to see solitary diners. On the road, which means while I'm traveling, I seem to notice many tables of one in good restaurants. I always assume the person is also traveling and traveling alone--or that he is a Michelin inspector. I've not been conscious of single tables in Paris and thus can't offer much advice about the single diner in a fine restaurant. Unless you can get specific advice, I'd say that you should make your reservation where you'd like to eat and expect them to treat you well when you arrive. By all means, it the service is particularly good, or bad, please post your results here. Tell us about the food too.

[magnolia]

I think the only issue you may encounter is where in the restaurant you'll be seated.  I have dined alone in Paris and have been sat near the kitchen, doorway, whatever...basically where they would seat unreserved parties etc. But I don't really mind as long as I'm comfortable (i.e. not in the way of major traffic or in a draft). If this matters to you, at very popular places, you may have better luck being seated in a good place at lunchtime, particularly if the restaurant only has a few tables. .

When you call to reserve, ask first if they have any space on such and such a night. If they volunteer a time before asking how many in your party, as they will probably assume at least two, and it's acceptable, take it. Then let them know you will be one. Or if you sense that they are packed that night and you may be turned down as a single, tell them it's for two and when you call to reconfirm, advise that the other party has cancelled. I know this sounds a bit underhanded, but in reality one person is no more trouble than two, and takes up the same amount of space, so they shouldn't jerk you around anyway but they may so you have to be a bit clever about it.

Bon App!

[Bux]

I think Magnolia's advice is good if getting a table is your goal, but it you want to eliminate those restaurants that might sit you at the worst table or offer less service to a single diner, you might want to go the other way and  announce you intent to dine alone.

Something that's not been considered and is dependant on the type of hotel in which you are staying, is the use of the concierge. Frequently you can fax, or even in some cases send e-mail, to the concierge and have him make your reservations. You can list the restaurants you'd most care to dine in and also ask his suggestions for those that will cater to single diners. In a way it marks you as a foreigner, although a fax from the states directly to the restaurant does that anyway, but it also establishes you as someone with clout as you will undoubtedly offer feedback to the concierge. The concierge will not want to steer you wrong and the restaurant will want to stay on good terms with any concierge that offers them desirable diners. Naturally, we're pretty much talking about the "better" hotels. Read expensive for better, and there are plenty of less expensive hotels that might appeal to those willing to drop a tidy sum on a fine meal. If, by any chance, you are staying at a top hotel and you've made reservations thorugh a travel agent, have him or her contact the concierge. More clout all around. As much as a good concierge wants you to return to the hotel, he knows the travel agency can send even more business their way.

[KJS]

Thanks for the advice, everyone! I'll make good use of it.

Making use of a concierge won't be an option, since I've arranged to rent an apartment while I'm in Paris.

However, I've done some research on the web about the restaurants in the neighborhood where I'll be

staying (St. Germain) and found some recommendations for Le Temps Perdu. Has anyone eaten there or

heard about it?

I've been considering eating most lunches in fine restaurants and eating dinner in the neighborhood as

much as possible--partly so I won't need to walk as far alone late at night. Perhaps if I choose Le Temps Perdu as a sort of home base, I'll be welcomed as a regular.

La Pallette is on the corner near the apartment I've rented, but that seems to be a local bar/cafe.

None of the information I've seen says anything about the food.

Perhaps good for a croissant and chocolat on the terrace before I head out for the day?