Avenues Restaurant To Get 2004 F&W Best New Chef

[chicagowench]

I'm happy and proud to be the first to help announce and congratulate the birth of Mylo Ignatius Bowles! 

Looks like the next generation of foodie-rock stars have a new darling to dote on! 

Cheers to you and yours, Elliot.

u.e.

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Woo! Congrats! It's one heck of a week for you, GEB.

[robert40]

Just a quick heads up that chef Bowles will be competing against Bobby Flay on this Sunday's episode of Iron Chef on Food Network.

Chef Bowles will also be featured on the Today Show (NBC/WMAQ) this coming Wednesday at 8:48 am CT.  He'll be cooking with flowers for Valentine's Day.

It's all-out Bowles media blitz this week!

Congrats, Chef

=R=

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Whee! I wish I could see the cooking with flowers thing. Congrats, Chef Bowles

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Here you go.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/17012170/

[Lateralus]

Chef Bowles needs his own show....!!!! Maybe he can help get Rachel Ray off Foodnetwork!

[ronnie_suburban]

Congrats, Chef, on the new addition to the family

BTW, for any of you folks with access to the Chicago Tribune Magazine, the cover of today's edition features a fantastic picture of ChefGEB and the caption below it reads "I'm calling you out, Bobby Flay."

I'm very much looking forward to seeing tonight's big battle.

=R=

[ulterior epicure]

I just watched Chef Bowles' battle with Bobby Flay. I can honestly and objectively say, I think Elliot was robbed. The judges seemed to like Bowles' dishes a lot better (at least from the edited comments) than Flays...

I also noticed that Flay only edged Chef Bowles out by 2 points over-all. They tied on Plating, Chef Bowles won on Originality, but Flay took more points on the Taste . BUT Flay made no less than 2 desserts with chocolate (the secret ingredient) which I thought was kind of a cop out. I thought Bowles did a better job of trying to make a "regular meal" - with only one dessert, proper, out of the five courses.

Regardless, great job Elliot, and your Alex as well!! Cheers to you! Enjoyed the show. Nice way to throw the gauntlet!

Edited February 12, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[babern38]

I completely agree with Ulterior Epicure's assessment. Chef Bowles was robbed. I found his dishes to be far more creative, beautifully plated, and intriguing in their unique and complex creations.

[ulterior epicure]

I completely agree with Ulterior Epicure's assessment.  Chef Bowles was robbed.  I found his dishes to be far more creative, beautifully plated, and intriguing in their unique and complex creations.

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Not to disparage Flay, but that stack of "chocolate Johnny cakes" looked absolutely awful... that, I believe, was the first of 3 desserts. [edited to add: Chocolate souffle (how predictable?!) was the last dessert.]

The dish that Bowles made that most intrigued me was the corn soup with cinnamon-infused whipped cream. And, of course, those goat cheese beignets coated with chocolate batter.

u.e.

Edited February 13, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Elrushbo]

I completely agree with Ulterior Epicure's assessment.  Chef Bowles was robbed.  I found his dishes to be far more creative, beautifully plated, and intriguing in their unique and complex creations.

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Not to disparage Flay, but that stack of "chocolate Johnny cakes" looked absolutely awful... that, I believe, was the first of 3 desserts. [edited to add: Chocolate souffle (how predictable?!) was the last dessert.]

The dish that Bowles made that most intrigued me was the corn soup with cinnamon-infused whipped cream. And, of course, those goat cheese beignets coated with chocolate batter.

u.e.

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Do you know if this episode will be replayed? I see the Food Network has Iron Chef America on Thursday, I was wondering if that's when they replay the previous episode.

Edited February 13, 2007 by Elrushbo (log)

[Elrushbo]

I don't have my menus to hand, but I have to chime in.  I too blanched at the cost of the pairings, and opted not to- but largely due to needing to be bright eyed and bushy tailed in meetings the next morning.  The pairings themselves are above and beyond any other I've seen at any other restaurant, including Alinea- truly wines and liquors I do not expect to see 'by the glass'.  Once I sat there and thought about it, given what they were serving, the cost made perfect sense.

The staff at Avenues is more than happy to recommend a couple of other glasses, if you don't want to do a full pairing.

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What she said. Although I don't drink, the last time I did Bowle's chef's tasting my two friends did do the pairings and they were quite impressed with the pairings. I did the non-alcoholic pairings, and they were an exquisite experience all to themselves.

u.e.

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I had that wonderful Meyer lemon drink when I was there...just wanted to smell it, it was the most intoxicating scent. I hope to make it to Avenues again, might have to stop by on my way to Michigan sometime this year.

[nsxtasy]

Do you know if this episode will be replayed? I see the Food Network has Iron Chef America on Thursday, I was wondering if that's when they replay the previous episode.

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Iron Chef America

Flay vs. Bowles (Chocolate Battle) FOOD 60 02/15/2007 8:00 PM

Iron Chef America

Flay vs. Bowles (Chocolate Battle) FOOD 60 02/15/2007 11:00 PM

Iron Chef America

Flay vs. Bowles (Chocolate Battle) FOOD 60 02/17/2007 6:00 PM

Iron Chef America

Flay vs. Bowles (Chocolate Battle) FOOD 60 02/17/2007 10:00 PM

Iron Chef America

Flay vs. Bowles (Chocolate Battle) FOOD 60 02/18/2007 1:00 AM

[Elrushbo]

Does anyone know how much the 3 and 5 course menus at Avenues are?

[nsxtasy]

Does anyone know how much the 3 and 5 course menus at Avenues are?

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$90 and $120.

It's been several days since we dined at Avenues over the weekend. We're still "de-compressing" after such a magnificent performance by Chef Bowles. Good thing I took notes. Especially since this was one of the best meals I've had in years. I may not have remembered everything that went on, but I've jotted down quite a bit of it below.

Where to begin? We entered the restaurant, were greeted warmly, and sat down. (That's always a good place to start, right?) The servers approached us with a wine list and, noticing that the women were wearing dark-colored skirts, asked if we would like them to replace the white napkins on the table with black ones, so that any lint from the napkins would not be visible on their skirts. Okay, that was a nice touch. So was the way they offered us a choice of bottled sparking water or bottled still water, both with their compliments (i.e. no extra charge).

The menu had a la carte choices on the left - cold appetizers, hot appetizers, fish course, and meat course - with three courses (one hot or cold appetizer, one fish or meat entree, and dessert) for $90, or else five courses (choice of one of each plus dessert) for $120. On the right was the menu de'gustation, listing ten courses for $160. The server noted that whichever of the three options we chose would need to apply to everyone at the table. He also said that Chef Bowles can modify the menu in absolutely ANY way we like (we made it clear that we were there for the food). We got the impression that there were no limits to what he could do for us. As a server joked later in the meal, "This is the Peninsula. You would like a giraffe and a rainbow? No problem, I'll return with those in just a few minutes." We decided on the menu de'gustation, but also told the servers that Chef Bowles should feel free to make any substitutions or do anything differently that he would like, if there were anything in particular he would like us to enjoy. No other instructions.

We ordered a wine (2004 Charbonniere, $64) and an iced tea flavored with chocolate, chai, and orange.

Before I describe the various dishes we were served, I should note that these descriptions may be slightly incomplete and may not fully do them justice. I don't bring a camera to meals with me and I try not to spend a lot of time taking notes; I like to enjoy my dinners! I mean no disrespect to those who can do both, of course, as I realize that photos give a much better idea of what a restaurant has to offer. Sorry, but for this report you'll have to use your imagination (or go there and see for yourself). Also, for every time I say that a dish consists of X on a bed of Y, it probably was more like X on a bed of Y and Z, with A sprinkled on top for texture, served with two sauces A and B decorating the unusually-shaped plate. The presentations were exquisite, as fine as anywhere I have been. But what's even more important is that their taste was every bit as delicious as their appearance was beautiful.

So here's what we had; with the exception of dessert, each of our party of four was served each item:

1. Amuse bouche of cream puffs (pate a choux) with lemon thyme mascarpone filling

2. Amuse bouche of apple pudding with salmon roe

3. Caesar salad, miniature heart of romaine, covered with anchovie, served on a brioche twinkie

4. Vichyssoise of potatos and leeks, served over chopped vegetables, with sauce

5. Thin slices of ahi tuna served with something (I forget what) topped with what looked like whipped cream (?) and a foam, with caramel sauce

6. Beef tartare with smoke ice cream and bearnaise panna cotta - this was perhaps the most unusual dish, and further explanation is warranted. The beef tartare was very tasty (it's been very bland when I've had it elsewhere) and the smoke-flavored ice cream is just like it sounds. This was served in a long, narrow dish with depressions in it at several points. The bearnaise panna cotta coated the bottom of the dish. Because the dish and the panna cotta were white, the panna cotta was invisible; it just looked like it was part of the serving dish. But when you spoon into it, you realize that the panna cotta is there. It was a visual trick that was delightful, all the more so because all of the elements of this dish were so delicious.

7. Seafood duet of lobster on a bed of braised leek, and sea scallop on a bed of raisins and spinach

8. Truffled risotto with red pearl onion on a bed of truffle cream and mushroom (nice flavor of truffles permeating throughout)

9. Maple-lacquered breast of quail served over diced apples and steel-cut oatmeal

10. Duet of Tasmanian salmon with celeriac foam, and turbot on a bed of ratatouille, also with foam

11. Trio of meats - kobe (American wagyu) beef with potato beignet and mushrooms; Colorado lamb chop; short ribs of bison with root beer sauce

12. Two cheeses with fig puree, quince puree, and crackers

13a. (Served to half of us) Vanilla souffle with rose ice cream and a pistachio cookie

13b. (Served to the other half of us) Plate of miniature desserts, including peanut ice cream, caramel ice cream, Sumatra bar (dense chocolate mocha pate), caramel-flavored creme brulee, apple tart tatin topped with apple sorbet

14. Star anise truffles (these were comparable to those at the best chocolatiers in town)

15. On our way out, the women in our party were each given a small package of two shortbread-like cookies.

Our dinner lasted four hours.

Every single dish was absolutely magnificent; there wasn't a single one that was less than superlative. Also, the portion size (on all but the amuses bouches) was quite ample, even generous considering the number of courses. These aren't tiny portions that leave plenty of empty room when served on a teaspoon (although I'm sure Chef Bowles would be happy to reduce the portion size if asked to do a 20- or 30-course meal).

I've been to many other fine restaurants, in Chicago and elsewhere, and this was one of the finest dinners I have experienced, in every way. I highly recommend Avenues to anyone who appreciates fine dining on the highest level. And if the cost of going there gives you pause, heck - just go, and order a la carte. You will be just as equally impressed, I'm sure.

Avenues

The Peninsula Chicago

108 East Superior Street (at North Michigan Avenue)

Chicago, Illinois 60611

(312) 573 6754

Edited March 21, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)

[BryanZ]

This last post kind of speaks to a question I have. Is this the kind of place where, if sitting at the chef's bar/pass deal, the kitchen will just cook for you? The setup seems to be perfectly suited for this kind of thing, but I thought I'd ask here. Has anyone gone beyond the tasting menu and just let the kitchen go totally wild?

[ulterior epicure]

This last post kind of speaks to a question I have.  Is this the kind of place where, if sitting at the chef's bar/pass deal, the kitchen will just cook for you?  The setup seems to be perfectly suited for this kind of thing, but I thought I'd ask here.  Has anyone gone beyond the tasting menu and just let the kitchen go totally wild?

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My hand is raised.

[BryanZ]

Was the exchange a relatively simple one? Like a "Will the kitchen simply cook for me?" kind of thing?

[Elrushbo]

This last post kind of speaks to a question I have.  Is this the kind of place where, if sitting at the chef's bar/pass deal, the kitchen will just cook for you?  The setup seems to be perfectly suited for this kind of thing, but I thought I'd ask here.  Has anyone gone beyond the tasting menu and just let the kitchen go totally wild?

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I did the Chef's Bar about a year ago, never had better service anywhere. I'd bet they would do whatever you asked. I almost asked them to let me have the pile of scallops in front of me.

[molto e]

I recently had the opportunity to dine at Avenues for the second time. Chef Graham Elliot Bowles offered to prepare a tasting for the table that would showcase the current menu at Avenues. We had a window table that had a lovely view of the city that ranks as one of the best views to enjoy while dining (but for photos as you will see the light ebbed by the time our meal ended ). The cuisine of Chef Bowles gets lumped into the "Molecular" camp, which I feel is an injustice to his modern whimsical style. He is able to take a classical dish and breath new life into it by re-weaving the flavors and delivering a beautiful modern plating. The service for the evening was spot on, with a professional yet warm delivery. The wine service perfectly complemented Chef Bowles cuisine and rounded out the polished Avenues experience.

(this was not a meal that I was focusing on my photos but I shot them anyway)

fig, ricotta and bacon gougeres paired with champagne

Immediately, the Avenues crew let it be known that the we were in their hands and would be enjoying some luxurious delicacies by presenting the gougeres and champagne.

Amuse - aubergine mousse, pinenut, olive oil, sumac, and chervil

Butter Service...black truffle, parmesan (made from the same milk that the cheese comes from, does not have parmesan cheese in it), and sea salted...black truffle butter in the middle (wow)

Chef's Palate - First Course

Beet - arugula, hazelnut, chevre...Clos Du Papillon Savennieres 2001

The beet rested on a red and yellow beet coulis with a cloud of chevre foam on the rim of the plate. Chef Bowles little touches to this dish with the beet coulis and the chevre foam made something familar into something different.

Caesar - romaine, parmesan, brioche...Malvira "Treuve" 2003

This was the first time that I had the Bowles Caesar...great!

Second Course

Tartare - kobe beef, bearnaise, smoke...Vigneto Du Lot Soave Classico 2002

A spin on steak frites with a quenelle of unctuous beef tartare resting on a bearnaise panna cotta next to smoked gelato scattered with petite frites. This was one of my favorite dishes of the night, the flavors were perfectly balanced. The smoked gelato worked perfectly with the dish.

Crab - rhubarb, asparagus, chamomile...Vieux Mas De Pape Chateuneuf Du-Pape 2002

Third Course

Scallop - leek, prosciutto, raisin...Prager Riesling Federspiel 2005

This was another one of my favorite dishes of the night...a bite of scallop with melted leeks, candied prosciutto and the raisin puree was salty, sweet and delicious.

Tuna - forbidden rice, bok choy, avocado paint...Triennes Viogner Sainte Fleur 2005

Fourth Course

Pea - lemon, eucalyptus, marshmallow...Henschke Louie Semmilion

Bouillabaisee - saffron, caramelized fennel, lobster...Domane Tempier Bandol Rose 2006

Both of the soups had great flavor with interesting flavor components, especially the squid rouille in the bouillabaisee.

Fifth Course

Halibut - ratatouille, broccoli, watercress...Macon-Charnay Verget 2005

This dish looked as good as it tasted. The halibut was fork tender and moist and the rataouille added a richness to the dish.

Risotto - morel, parsley, truffle...Vina Real Gran Reserva 1995

This was a risotto for those you have a truffle "jones"...the morels provided the earthy, meaty backbone to the risotto.

Sixth Course

Pork - grits, collard greens, sassafras...Terlato Syrah Dry Creek Valley 2004

The pork was tender and juicy but the sassafras element to the dish brought a different note to a classic combination.

Salmon - onion, bacon, merlot...ICV LA-BAS "Les Reveles" 2002

The bacon and onion were a great match to the salmon.

Seventh Course

Squab - fiddlehead ferns, lentils, garlic...Terre Rouge Noir 1999

The skin of the squab was deftly rendered, while resting on the fiddlehead ferns and tasty lentils. I would have happily enjoyed a side dish of the lentils by themselves.

Rabbit - cipollini onions, lettuces...Vincent Giradin Pommard 1ER Cru 2003

I am not sure how many times that I can say that I enjoyed a rabbit dish probably due to an affinity for Bugs as a youth. This dish is one that I can say that I enjoyed, the meat was tender, moist and flavorful.

Eighth Course

Lamb - farro, carrot, fava...Massaya Gold Reserve 2003

Tasty...

Beef - potato, mushroom, horseradish...Domaine De Trevallon 2001

This was a Wagyu strip loin with a mushroom fricassee, horseradish fondant with a red wine essence and a potato beignet.

Desserts

Melon - mint, cantaloupe, midori

Fresh and clean tasting dessert with Midori cream, cantaloupe pearls, compressed honeydew and roasted watermelon.

Cheesecake - proseco, citrus, pecan

This was a St. Andre Cheesecake with a pecan crust surrounded by cherry, fig, citrus gelee and topped with a herb tuile.

Corn - fromage blanc, blueberry, popcorn

A dessert to savor the corn crop's arrival...cornbread pudding, blueberry salsa, blueberry froth and popcorn glass

Chocolate - peanut, phyllo, caramel

The chocolate lovers dessert :Sumatra chocolate cake, marshamllow sandwich, molten phyllo, peanut butter ice cream

Trio of Dessert Pairings:

Dolce Napa Valley 2002

Andrew Rich Vinter 2003

Smith Woodhouse Porto 1985

Mignardises

My dinner at Avenues was highlighted by the creative cuisine of Chef Graham Elliot Bowles that was supported beatifully by the polished performance by the Front of the House. I look forward to see what the future holds for Chef Bowles, he is indeed a talent that I can see flourishing in a number of venues.

[ulterior epicure]

Excellent, Elliot! I'm not surprised Chef Bowles is constantly pushing the limit. It looks like he's stepped up the pastry progam over there. No cheese course?

[molto e]

Excellent, Elliot!  I'm not surprised Chef Bowles is constantly pushing the limit.  It looks like he's stepped up the pastry progam over there.  No cheese course?

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the cheesecake was kind of the cheese couse...

[ulterior epicure]

Leave it to Elliot (the chef) to make it sweet!

[docsconz]

Rabbit - cipollini onions, lettuces...Vincent Giradin Pommard 1ER Cru 2003

I am not sure how many times that I can say that I enjoyed a rabbit dish probably due to an affinity for Bugs as a youth. This dish is one that I can say that I enjoyed, the meat was tender, moist and flavorful.

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I wonder if Chef Bowles would have made cuy like the rabbit if you would have enjoyed that as well?

[BryanZ]

Awesome looking meal.

[molto e]

I wonder if Chef Bowles would have made cuy like the rabbit if you would have enjoyed that as well?

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Doc,

I have never claimed to be a complete omnivore...I never had a pet rabbit but I did have a pet "CUY" so Chef Bowles could not get me to eat one of those...I think .

Molto E

[hshiau]

How did you manage to eat all that food? Some of those portions don't seem very small.

[nsxtasy]

How did you manage to eat all that food?  Some of those portions don't seem very small.

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I can't speak for his particular meal, but I ate at Avenues a few months ago, and our group of four ordered the ten-course tasting menu. For some courses, all four of us were served the same item. But for other courses, two of us were served one item, and the other two were served a different item. It appears from the captions above that the same thing happened; you'll notice that many of the numbered courses have photos showing two different dishes for each. So even though there may appear to be up to twenty different courses shown here, each individual may only have been served ten of them. We shared at our dinner, but of course that means eating only half the portion shown in the photo. Hope that helps explain.

It's also worth noting that our dinner took almost four hours, so there was ample time to rest and regain appetite.

Edited July 31, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)